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Re: [jt512] training & nutrtition:
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guangzhou
Dec 4, 2009, 4:44 AM
Views: 6981
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
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jt512 wrote: guangzhou wrote: jt512 wrote: Dip wrote: yeah i sort of figured i need to change up what im doing at the gym. I'm going to order "The self coached climber" and horst's "climb 5.12" if i don't get them for christmas. I wouldn't bother with How to Climb 5.12; you're already wasting time doing pull-ups. Given your present climbing level and goal, you primarily need to improve movement skills, and secondarily climbing-specific fitness. SCC is essentially the only book out there for these things. Jay Jay, that's crap. You read about a guy and say he needs to improve his climbing movement without ever seeing or watching him climb. We've had this exact same argument before. He's has only been climbing a short while, and his current limit is 5.11b. There is no question that his movement skills are undeveloped. Jay
No question to you, but I have not seen him climb, so I can't say that. He's been climbing almost two years, that not bad for learning to move.
From what I understand, Chris Sharma had lousy footwork because he was to dynamic, now his climbing style has been adapted but other climbers.
I haven't seen Dip climb, so I can't say he doesn't know how to move. Some people learn to move quickly, others take year.
To be honest, I don't even know what his definition of climbing 5.11 means. Me I consider myself a 5.10 climber. Very few 5.10 climbs I won't get on, but I name a bunch of 5.11 I won't touch, and plenty of 5.12 (sport and trad) that I have climbed. Only a couple of 5.13s I redpointed.
For me to claim I climb a grade, I have to be able to do that grade across the board constantly. Gear and heigth being irrelevant.
Work on movement is a cop out. Everyone can improve their movement regardless of what level they climb. I personally don;t know how good or bad is climbing moves are because I've never seen him climb.
Eman
(This post was edited by guangzhou on Dec 4, 2009, 4:56 AM)
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Post edited by guangzhou
() on Dec 4, 2009, 4:56 AM
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