Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [rock_fencer] starting pin & hook rack: Edit Log




shimanilami


Dec 16, 2009, 7:07 PM

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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043

Re: [rock_fencer] starting pin & hook rack
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Certainly, the majority of pins could be removed. With that said, I usually don't remove pins I didn't place. I guess I'm just lazy and don't want to carry any more iron than I've already got.

P5 of the Trip, for example, was supposed to be the shite, requiring hooks, tons of tiny cams, etc. But it was fixed to death. I was totally bummed. I yelled down to my partner to get the hammer out, 'cuz he could booty at least a dozen pins that didn't need to be there. But he's even lazier than me, and didn't bother.

I suppose that if someone was making a free attempt, they might want some of the bomber pins to remain for pro. On the flip side, they might want to pull fixed pins because they need the holds. I experienced this last year on Mescalito, when I passed Tommy Caldwell who was working to free the route. His fingers = my cam hooks! Spicy fucking leads, dude! Incredible!

EDIT - as for fixed nuts and cams, if I can get it out, then it's booty for sure. I think most aid climbers do the same thing.


(This post was edited by shimanilami on Dec 16, 2009, 7:12 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by shimanilami () on Dec 16, 2009, 7:12 PM


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