Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [dbogardus] Anchor Building Using The Lead Rope: Edit Log




majid_sabet


Jun 15, 2010, 5:06 PM

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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390

Re: [dbogardus] Anchor Building Using The Lead Rope
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dbogardus wrote:
Relatively new to leading. I'm interested in building multipitch anchors out of the lead rope as it has many benefits.

Speaking with a AMGA guide, he told me that building anchors out of the rope is generally not practical. His reasoning was that, if there is only one leader, you would need to build another anchor after the second reaches the belay in order for the leader to continue on as the original anchor is built out of her (leader) end of the rope. Obviously, this will not apply to swinging leads.

So, is there a way to address this problem? In addition, I'm looking for more specific info on how to build anchors completely out of the rope so there is no need to carry a cord (I've spent a lot of time using the search feature and have only found a few old pics posted by RG.)

Dave

when you build an anchor off your lead rope, your rope is married to wall till taken off. if rock hits your head and your partner needs to go to plan B, taking that anchor rope may delay or cause other problems therefore, its a good idea to build an anchor with other materials than your rope


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jun 15, 2010, 5:08 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by majid_sabet () on Jun 15, 2010, 5:08 PM
Post edited by majid_sabet () on Jun 15, 2010, 5:08 PM


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