petsfed
Sep 6, 2010, 8:58 PM
Views: 10334
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
Per JT above, most fall calculators will overestimate the force felt by the climber and belayer, since friction in the system will dissipate energy from a fall in ways that aren't easily measured by climber or belayer. Jay's uses an assumed value, which obviously is not knowable in the field.
I read a while back that Wild Country Rocks used to feature much heavier cable until one of their engineers noted that in every case of Rock failure, the metal of the nut failed before the cable, including in the lab. I don't recall where I read that, or if it was true, but the gist of it was to give the impression that the manufacturers are not trying to give you equipment designed to fail under regular usage.
Speaking from experience, your placement will fail well before parts start breaking on your average nut.
Edited for glaring errors, omissions, idiocy, etc.
(This post was edited by petsfed on Sep 6, 2010, 9:06 PM)
|
