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Re: [ghisino] Training crimp technique (Not strength):
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jason
Oct 8, 2010, 3:38 PM
Views: 10341
Registered: Apr 24, 2002
Posts: 37
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ghisino wrote: however, your point might be valid for some very specific moves. I'm thinking more about thin/tecnical face climbing situations involving more precision/accuracy than power...
This is actually a move that I've run into a number of times, and most recently on a problem I'm working now. To clear things up, it's not a power problem at all. Yes, it's powerful, but that's not what's shooting me down (on this one).
On a 10 degree overhang, I'm going from a bad right heel, and bad right crimp to a two finger crimp at the full extent of my reach (before bumping). This crimp I can easily reposition on. The problem is that after that move, I'm bumping quite a bit further to a three finger microcrimp. When you hit it, it's actually the main point holding you because your left crimp becomes uselessly low. Repositioning isn't really possible. If the hold had any substance to it at all, I could just crank down and close the crimp. But trying this causes you to loose the little friction you have. The next move requires you to crimp in order to get high enough on the hold. Open hand won't work, you'll just have to take my word for it. Again it's not a problem of power, but a problem of position.
The only person I've seen who could actually execute the move had to do so by sticking it in the 3 finger closed crimp position with perfect accuracy. This is just one example, I've run into similar moves before, and would really like to work on my accuracy and technique.
As I said in the original post I'm not looking to train power in this case, but precision. If anyone knows the methods that the "elite" have used, I would be interested in hearing about it. I may not be elite, but I would like to finish my project.
(This post was edited by jason on Oct 8, 2010, 4:06 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by jason
() on Oct 8, 2010, 4:06 PM
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