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Re: [notapplicable] Top-belay accident:
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bearbreeder
Feb 12, 2011, 6:43 AM
Views: 9486
Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
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notapplicable wrote: I think those are unwise endorsements for any belay device. Those guys are highly experienced climbers with solid and proven partners. They have also done and seen enough to make an informed decision about something as fundamentally abhorrent as routinely releasing control of the brake strand of the rope. A new or inexperienced climber very well may not understand the implications of following that advice and unfortunately it will not be them paying the price for it, it will be their even less experienced second.
same with any other equipment ... the onus to learn how to use it properly is on the user, same as a gri gri, prussics, anchors, cams, nuts, and climbing itself ...
take away the top and bottom holes ... and what is the atc guide? ... just an atc xp ... as long as someone knows not to use it in autobloc without proper instruction and practice, i dont see a difference
we'd better add the american alpine institute to that list of unwise endorsements ....
In the late 90s, climbers and guides began to use autoblocking devices to belay a second. These devices allow one to belay two ropes simultaneously directly off the anchor. If the second falls, the anchor feels the weight, not the belayer. The best part of these devices were that they automatically locked up, immediately arresting the second's fall.
Today most climbers use one of two of these autoblocking devices that have the market cornered. The Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl Reverso 3 should be considered standard equipment on every climber's rack.
wil gadd ...
I've used the ATC guide on frozen ropes of all diameters, all kinds of half/twin ropes, and a wide variety of single ropes. It's the best tool for a multi-pitch environment currently on the market.
tommy caldwell ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0YUseORhhc
craig lubben's beginners book ... god rest his soul
and tons of others ... except for some RC.com folks naturally ...
as BD would say ...
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Feb 12, 2011, 6:44 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by bearbreeder
() on Feb 12, 2011, 6:44 AM
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