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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Falling, sit harnesses, and the "Dead Fish" syndrome:
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KeitaroHoshi
Mar 24, 2011, 9:48 PM
Views: 11492
Registered: Jul 6, 2010
Posts: 171
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I know the longer amount of rope out lessens the fallfactor. Which if I understand correctly the definition of is
Fall factor: A measure of the severity of a fall, calculated by dividing the length of the fall by the length of the rope in the system; the greater the fall factor, the greater the impact force on the anchors, climber, and belayer.
So if you are trad climbing and you think that your nuts aren't sloid, but you have a few in there and close together they can be cliped to with a cordelette
(a multi piece connection). Which if used properly
would distribute the weight of a falling climber evenly
on all placements. One dicy placement might not hold. Three dicy placements equalized can provide a sugnifigantly larger ammount of safty when holding a falling climber.
With all that physics being taken as understood.
A fall facter of 2 is not the fall that you want to be praticing. Factoring your fall is easy but don't let the number 2 be missleading. A longer fall might be more dangerous because there's a greater chance of hitting things, but the impact forces generated are no worse. It is the hard falls close to the ground and 10' off the anchor that that produce a wiplash effect when your kinetic energy(momentum) is abruptly stopped. With a longer amount of rope out the forces distributed onto an anchor catching a falling climber will be decreased.
(This post was edited by KeitaroHoshi on Mar 24, 2011, 10:16 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by KeitaroHoshi
() on Mar 24, 2011, 10:16 PM
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