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Re: [tequilaboom] Intro Lead Climbing:
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jacques
May 19, 2011, 12:01 PM
Views: 9256
Registered: May 14, 2008
Posts: 318
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tequilaboom wrote: We eventually want to get into trad climbing, but so far we don't have enough money for protection gear - so we'll stick to bolted routes. Please let me know what you think! Thanks everyone!
As the technique for belaying is more complex in sport than in trad, I suggest that you begin with trad on easier route to master your technique.
For belaying and rap: I suggest that you take a course, two of you, with a guide. Ask him to show you the major danger in rock climbing (ex, traverse, rappeling on nuts belay, pendulum. As they are expert, they will protect you against any danger.
After, take a course of aid climbing. Placing a good nuts on the ground is easy, Loading an rp's or rock number 2 on lead is feasible, but... Aid climbing will help you to see many feature in the rock and the limit of your cam, stopper.
In many cliff, they still have some climber that have a couple of climbing in their muscle. But, because they lost there shape, they don't want to lead. Don't choose the one who talk about what to do or not. Choose an instinctive climber. One who will not say a lot about technique, but that he will look at you with a smile and climb the hard section you have led effortless.
With all that knowledge, you will be able to safely climb a route. As you will eventually place a runner on a bolt, you will find easier to climb on bolt. Finding and trusting a stopper is mostly trad climbing. In sport, the fear to fall in a bad position will become evident and as you will sport climb, you will need special and complex technique for belaying.
(This post was edited by jacques on May 19, 2011, 12:02 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by jacques
() on May 19, 2011, 12:02 PM
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