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Re: [robdotcalm] Belaying Directly from Belay Loop:
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rgold
Mar 21, 2012, 10:35 PM
Views: 7302
Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804
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As a non-user of figure-8's, I wasn't aware of the effects of various "finishing" techniques on the rolling of the knot. It seems that the main drawback of the figure-8, the difficulty of untying it after loading, has led to some "finishing" techniques that have the far worse side-effect of making the knot far more unstable under ring-loading.
Tying a double overhand knot with the short strand on the load strand will back up a figure-8 to the bombproof level as far as ring-loading is concerned. But if the problem to be avoided is untying difficulty, then another knot is a better idea than messing with the figure-8 by adding extra turns and tucks.
As Jim says, a rethreaded bowline on a bight is better than a figure-8 anyway, but convention being what it is, it seems unlikely that anything more than a fringe group of cognoscenti will adopt that knot.
Edit: Corrected the misspelling "cognescenti" after being alerted to it by Jay.
(This post was edited by rgold on Mar 27, 2012, 10:32 PM)
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Post edited by rgold
() on Mar 23, 2012, 3:24 PM
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Post edited by rgold
() on Mar 27, 2012, 10:32 PM
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