Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [Ope] Bolting in Tufas: Edit Log




USnavy


Mar 31, 2012, 9:10 AM

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Registered: Nov 6, 2007
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Re: [Ope] Bolting in Tufas
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Ope wrote:
Any advice on what to do when bolting in limestone and you can only drill tru about 2"of solid rock before hitting a void to where a 3" expansion bolt will no longer work. Would glue-ins be better?
Thanks,
Yes - don’t install a bolt there, that’s a classic example of a poor placement.

But to answer your question, a glue in would be the only option, you absolutely must not use a expansion bolt in that type of placement! If you ever hit a pocket or void, you must drill a new hole or use a glue in, never place an expansion bolt in a void! The only exception is if you are using some crazy long bolt (such as, to bolt a flake on) and you hit a small pocket but then continue drilling into solid rock. The idea is that the expansion clip/cone must be in deep and solid rock, or else the bolt could rip with very little force.

However, if you did use a glue in bolt, you cannot simply just squirt some epoxy in the drilled hole and call it a day. If you just fill the drilled hole with epoxy, the bolt is just going to push the epoxy into the void as you insert it, leaving you with a compromised bolt. So the alternative is to fill the entire void with epoxy or use a screen such one of these: http://www.us.hilti.com/...on.jsf?nodeId=-60845 However, even with a screen you are going to have problems.

So in summary, the best (and only) option is to choose a different placement. Place the bolt higher up and hang a long draw. Place the bolt before the tufa or after it. Make the route go somewhere else. There are many options, but a compromised bolt placement should never be one of them. Always take the time to place bolts in solid, contiguous rock.

btw, what type of bolts are you using?


(This post was edited by USnavy on Mar 31, 2012, 9:13 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Mar 31, 2012, 9:12 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Mar 31, 2012, 9:13 AM


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