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Re: [HouseHippo] Cordellette Anchor Question:
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chasetherabbit
Oct 4, 2012, 2:13 PM
Views: 20626
Registered: Oct 4, 2012
Posts: 14
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Saw this post and literally signed up to rockclimbing.com to reply to it. You are going to get someone hurt.
1: Conforming to one type of anchor on every double bolted anchor spot displays your inexperience. (As well as the carabiner question)
2: Your carabiner question. It is NOT okay to use only one carabiner at the powerpoint, even if it is a locker it can come undone. Always two carabiners opposite and opposed.
3: Cordelette anchor: Is it safe to say that every route you climb has absolutely no traverse? Falling anywhere off the rope line you positioned that anchor for will cause stress on one of the bolts. Studies show the cordelette anchor istelf can never achieve perfect equality. Depending on the route, it is usually safer to go with a sliding X, provided the bolts are perfect and theres no worry of extension... and a bit of other things that YOU should know about as the person doing anchors for someone. For example...
4: That pic you posted has carabiners on "RAP" rings...
Your ignorance will hurt someone, buy some anchor books, search the internet, take a class and speak with old rock climbing specialists then come back and say you've learned to be safe.
My apologies for coming off rude, but this is why people get hurt.
(This post was edited by chasetherabbit on Oct 4, 2012, 2:34 PM)
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