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Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [patto] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading? : Edit Log




bearbreeder


Jan 4, 2013, 10:46 AM

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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
Re: [patto] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading?
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patto wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
First of all, just to clear-up a few myths, the following is not dynamic belaying

So instead of clearing up myths you continue to mix up and confuse the issues of reducing pendulums and reducing impact force! Crazy

More slack will increase the impact forces, nobody is arguing otherwise.
More slack will significantly reduce the pendulum effect.
A dynamic belay will normally slightly reduce impact forces.
A dynamic belay will slighty reduce the pendulum effect.

are you whinning about UKclimbing confusing stuff for ya Wink

how many sport whippers do you catch in a day ... 15+ footers? ... a decent sport climber at their limit will easily take 5-10 or more in a day ... and catch that many ...

the effect of a dynamic belay is often more than "slight" ... as anyone who sport climbs a decent amount will know friends that have busted ankles from hard catches

im a wussy climber and i climb sport at my limit indoor and outdoor 2-3 times a week ... 5-10 whippers a day ... basically 1000+ not so short falls a year .... and there are many that take much more than that

if you climbed and fell constantly on sport, all it takes is one hard catch where you tweak your ankle to see what works ... and what doesnt

despite all the RC mumbo jumbo ... thousands of sport climbers understand it .... petzl understands it, beal understands it ...

but RCers dont Tongue


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jan 4, 2013, 10:52 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Jan 4, 2013, 10:50 AM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Jan 4, 2013, 10:52 AM


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