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Re: [cmn003] What type of climbing is it when the quickdraws are already placed?:
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chris
Jun 20, 2013, 4:30 PM
Views: 10205
Registered: Feb 4, 2003
Posts: 97
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cmn003 wrote: Is there a different term for sport climbing when the quickdraws have already been placed on the first lead? (Similar to how finishing the climbs is considered a redpoint and a pinkpoint, respectively) Or maybe I'm missing some terminology understand here, help me out :) Thanks guys!
Not to ruin the fun, but I'm going to address the OP.
Historically, "red point" came into use in the 1970's to denote that an already established aid climb could be climbed free. In the 1980's it came to represent that someone had climbed a route after multiple attempts (and hanging).
I read somewhere (and I'm trying to find the source) that the term "pink point" was first used in jest for someone who climbed a route with pre-placed gear or quickdraws. For a while in the late 1980's (maybe even in the 1990's), magazine used this distinction.
But with 5.14+ and 5.15 climbing becoming more and more common (relative to 20 years ago), pre-placed draws are becoming more and more common. The magazines stopped making the "red point" versus "pink point" distinction. On gear routes, its simply stated today that it was climbed on pre-placed gear.
(This post was edited by chris on Jun 20, 2013, 4:31 PM)
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Post edited by chris
() on Jun 20, 2013, 4:31 PM
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