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Re: [olderic] classification versus scale difficulty:
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jacques
Apr 3, 2014, 11:19 PM
Views: 7404
Registered: May 14, 2008
Posts: 318
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olderic wrote: [..]But I think the original point was not about whether or not the YDS grade reflected the substainess or if it was simply a snapshot of the 1 most difficult move, but the point was whether the YDS or any system based on rating the most difficult part of the climb was adequate for describing the difficulty/danger of the climb. Of course its always a dubious practice to assume you know what Jacgues is talking about. But I think his point is that there are a lot of other factors that go into characterizing the over all difficult of a climb. Jacques is constantly bashing sport climbers and loves to present scenerios where some with a sport climbing mentality will get into trouble when they attempt to trad climb
I think that honnold, who made the three big 2 500 feet wall in a day is a sport climber. I saw him in a video and he describe how he brush his hold before and how he practice some dubtious move to make it ounce in solo. I think that it is a kind of practice well describe by the NCCS. He climb the nose in 3 hours approximately, so he is rating I, with a difficulty of 5.11, A_2...write I,5.11,A-2.
Is it a model. Who have the time to climb a route, clean the hold, etc. And do we have the obligation to climb like that?
If you think that you have the obligation, you will try to climb like them. One guy aid climb with two feet in his aider, a technique for bolt lader extend to other situation, If his pro pop, and we know that the cimetery have many client with bump proof pro, he had felt on his back. He didn't even ralize what will happen. He just try to climb by obligation.
Hopefully, we can also climb remote area with an other ethic than sport. If you like better higher overall difficulty than the hardiest difficulty of a move, For example, the nose, the same as Honnold, is a grade V, 5.9, A2... it can also be hard...and fun. So, the goal is not to perform by obligation or competition, the goal is to master your technique and your soal, your mind and your arms. No comparaison, you start at your level and you progress in many way of your personality.
I think it is the heart of trad climbing. I can climb a bolt route in trad. But the ethic will be different and it the ethic could be understand and describe with the NCCS classification.
(This post was edited by jacques on Apr 4, 2014, 1:08 AM)
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Post edited by jacques
() on Apr 4, 2014, 1:08 AM
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