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austinclmbr
Nov 21, 2005, 1:11 AM
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I hear rumors about a device similar to the b-52 and reverso, but the web site doesn;t seem to say anything about this.
anybody got any pics or links??
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austinclmbr
Nov 21, 2005, 1:30 AM
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no that is great dude!!
Looks like it will be about the same weight as Reverso, but prob wont get sharp.
hmmm, wonder what they cost...
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landgolier
Nov 21, 2005, 2:00 AM
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I imagine it will go for about $25, that's what the B-52 and the reverso are, and the regular xp is about $20. I like my b-52 and hate the reverso, but I'm buying one of these because I like how the XP raps and belays lead.
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esoj00
Nov 21, 2005, 2:29 AM
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When will this get on the market??
Jp
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jimdavis
Nov 21, 2005, 2:30 AM
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In reply to: Looks like it will be about the same weight as Reverso, but prob wont get sharp.
The regular ATC gets sharp too, pretty much every belay device does.
Cheers,
Jim
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tattooed_climber
Nov 21, 2005, 3:09 AM
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xp raps like hell....i have to be 30m down and with a full FULL rack to have it rap smoothly...i only like it for lead belaying...
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tenesmus
Nov 21, 2005, 3:39 AM
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In reply to: xp raps like hell....i have to be 30m down and with a full FULL rack to have it rap smoothly...i only like it for lead belaying...
Now I'm back to a regular ATC.
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trillium
Nov 21, 2005, 3:51 AM
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Hmmmmm...
I use my xp and love it both for rappels and belays. To each his own.
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landgolier
Nov 21, 2005, 4:21 AM
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ok, let me clarify:
The ATC-XP should really be called the ATC-FA, where FA=Fat Ass. I weigh about 210, and with me + rack + camelback it runs great on rap, and the high friction mode is the best thing going for catching extra large meatsacks on lead. I sent my 150 lb partner down on it without thinking about it, though, and even on the low friction side it sucked. Most of us fat guys own one, and hand it to partners for lead belaying, it's when you forget to take it back for raps that things suck.
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nickb
Nov 21, 2005, 4:26 AM
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I have used it. It work quite well. Does not make the anoying clanking when racked like the reverso does. I usually use and ATC , but the XP works well for double ropes. The new one would be good for belying two seconds at the same time. A small improvement over the reverso IMO. For rapping try turning it around so the teeth won't grab, helps a little.
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dyomad
Nov 21, 2005, 5:42 AM
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The other bonus on this one which should improve upon the Reverso's function is in giving out slack to followers. Previously on a Reverso, you had to do a few rope tricks to give out slack if a follower fell and needed to be lowered to a ledge. The ATC Guide has another loop opposite of the point where you clip it into the power point. You can just barely see it in the picture above. This will theoretically allow for much easier lowering of the follower. We shall see. Also the grooves are not as deep and and tight as on the ATC-XP as it was too much work taking in slack on two ropes. There was just too much fritction so they made a less pronounced groove to lessen that. Maybe that will help you skinny twerps on rappel. That did bump the cost and time on it slightly as they no longer could just use the same geometry as the XP, they had to come up with something new. They should be available sometime in December so we see for ourselves soon.
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holdplease2
Nov 21, 2005, 6:25 AM
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Looks like a little teapot.
I like it.
Now I have a good reason to get a BFA (big fat ass) over the holidays.
-Kate.
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stitch997
Nov 21, 2005, 7:43 AM
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The one shown in the pic earlier in the thread is different than the xp my buddy uses. I have had no problems when we would do our 30m raps. He likes it better than the ATC. I have used both in tr and sport.
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landgolier
Nov 21, 2005, 7:46 AM
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In reply to: Now I have a good reason to get a BFA (big fat ass) over the holidays. -Kate.
Based on the following fiercely slanderous yet insta-classic thread, I think the correct term is Big Booty Weight©
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=95290&postdays=0&postorder=asc&topic_view=&start=15
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moondog
Nov 21, 2005, 4:26 PM
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In reply to: The ATC-XP should really be called the ATC-FA, where FA=Fat Ass. I weigh about 210, and with me + rack + camelback it runs great on rap, and the high friction mode is the best thing going for catching extra large meatsacks on lead.
I use mine for canyoneering - awesome for rapping on single 8 mm lines...can't wait to try the new one.
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brianinslc
Nov 21, 2005, 5:22 PM
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In reply to: I use mine for canyoneering - awesome for rapping on single 8 mm lines...can't wait to try the new one.
Here's another view of one, in action, with a 6mm Espirit rope...
http://mtncommunity.org/dc/user_files/1139.jpg
I've rapp'd and belayed with the new ATC-XP Pro (I think that's what its called). Great device. Works very well on a skinny cord.
Haven't tried the gi gi-esque placquette belay method outside, but, inside the house, playing with it, seems to lock up and release very well. Nifty hole positioning especially the lock up release hole.
I'd buy (and use) one. Handier than a Kong Gi Gi, IMHO.
-Brian in SLC
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mephistopheles
Nov 21, 2005, 6:01 PM
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[quote="dyomad"]The other bonus on this one which should improve upon the Reverso's function is in giving out slack to followers. Previously on a Reverso, you had to do a few rope tricks to give out slack if a follower fell and needed to be lowered to a ledge. The ATC Guide has another loop opposite of the point where you clip it into the power point. You can just barely see it in the picture above. This will theoretically allow for much easier lowering of the follower.
Owning a reverso and having to deal with the issue of lowering a second whilst belaying off the anchor in auto-lock, I can't see (yet) how that extra loop at the bottom of the device will help.
Attach it to the master point? While already having the top (inline with the black wire) into the masterpoint? Wha?
One thing I am disapointed to see is they didn't improve the thickness of the top plate. (where my reverso is now razor sharp from rappelling and lowering). There's always room to build a better mousetrap.
-Dr. Faustus
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vegastradguy
Nov 21, 2005, 6:10 PM
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damnit, i'm so jealous of the guys who get to try this stuff out before it's released to us gear whores for purchase.
at any rate, i'm buying one- i'm sick of retiring a reverso every 12-16 months because of sharpening....
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j_ung
Nov 21, 2005, 7:30 PM
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In reply to: damnit, i'm so jealous of the guys who get to try this stuff out before it's released to us gear whores for purchase. at any rate, i'm buying one- i'm sick of retiring a reverso every 12-16 months because of sharpening....
ahem... Check your PMs.
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notch
Nov 21, 2005, 8:00 PM
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In reply to: Owning a reverso and having to deal with the issue of lowering a second whilst belaying off the anchor in auto-lock, I can't see (yet) how that extra loop at the bottom of the device will help.
The idea with the location of the extra loop is that it provides a ton more leverage to unlock the rope if it is autoblocked. If, either in real life or practice, you've ever gone through the pain that is unloading an autoblocked Reverso, you'll really appreciate the (relative) ease with which it can be done on the ATC-Guide. BD's suggested retail is $25, BTW.
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stymingersfink
Nov 21, 2005, 11:09 PM
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In reply to: Owning a reverso and having to deal with the issue of lowering a second whilst belaying off the anchor in auto-lock, I can't see (yet) how that extra loop at the bottom of the device will help. Attach it to the master point? While already having the top (inline with the black wire) into the masterpoint? Wha?
Check it out: the smaller point on the ATC XP-Guide is sized such that no real 'biner will fit within, yet if you were to take a sewn runner, push it through the (we seem to be calling it a release point) from bottom right to left in the photo, thread it through the master point (not shown: the locker you are threading the sling through would be clipped through the large-ish solid metal clip-point on the right side of the XP-Guide shown below) and clip it to your belay dog-nut, you now need only weight the sling with your body to release the auto-block. (The stitched point is too fat to fit through the small release point, though if you have any doubt, just put a knot in the sling UNDER the release point)
(I'm gonna borrow your link, brian, thanks)
http://mtncommunity.org/dc/user_files/1139.jpg
and, fwiw, the XP-Guide design seems to cool faster than the original xp. Perhaps its the increased surface area exposed to air, perhaps its the profile of the outer side-walls, I don't know, but I will say this: rapping the east ledges w/ a P.I.G. was a piece of cake. I was never engaged in the game of hot-potato we are all so familiar with.
In reply to: There's always room to build a better mousetrap.
...and in the case of the reverso and B-52, this is it! Way to go, BD.
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esoj00
Nov 21, 2005, 11:14 PM
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So When can I get mine????
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stymingersfink
Nov 21, 2005, 11:21 PM
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don't know, ask the wife. :D
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austinclmbr
Nov 21, 2005, 11:22 PM
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yeah man I got a reverso for trade if somebody wants it....
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furrypink
Nov 22, 2005, 1:36 AM
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I've been using one for about 2 months and it's just the best thing out there - no contest.
It will be available early nrxt Spring.
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brent_e
Nov 22, 2005, 2:51 AM
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In reply to: Looks like a little teapot. I like it. Now I have a good reason to get a BFA (big fat ass) over the holidays. -Kate.
LOL
it does look like a teapot!!!
Brent
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devonick
Nov 22, 2005, 3:08 AM
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ok well i dont belay any big people cos i havnt climbed with any yet but i dont see how the reverso gets sharp its got the round edge for breaking over, i even looked in the manual for it and in the petzl book and it says to break over the rounded edge unless youve got a real heavy load so really i cant see the difference except for the breaking 'teeth' on the bd atc-xp pro so i wouldnt sayim sold on it
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vegastradguy
Nov 22, 2005, 4:17 AM
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In reply to: ok well i dont belay any big people cos i havnt climbed with any yet but i dont see how the reverso gets sharp its got the round edge for breaking over, i even looked in the manual for it and in the petzl book and it says to break over the rounded edge unless youve got a real heavy load so really i cant see the difference except for the breaking 'teeth' on the bd atc-xp pro so i wouldnt sayim sold on it
yes, you brake over the rounded edge, but the other side of the device sharpens over time (this occurs from rappelling, not belaying)- the constant friction on one side of the already thin piece of metal there causes it to become sharp.
i've retired one reverso due to this happening, and my current one is almost at that point.....
if you do not rappel that much, you wont have this happen nearly as quickly as someone who rappels all the time.
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euroford
Nov 28, 2005, 5:58 PM
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FYI: i was told by BD that these should hit stores April '06.
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abtisme
Dec 7, 2005, 2:46 PM
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someone please tell me how i can start testing gear. i don't mind being a guinea pig. this thing looks awesome and i'd rather not wait to get it.
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powpierre
Dec 7, 2005, 3:53 PM
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Per BD it should be out mid to late December. It has been pushed back once or twice already but the CS at BD said Mid December it should show up online and be available.
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patto
Jan 2, 2006, 1:19 PM
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Note the added front hole so the device can be released from auto-block to lower a climber!
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jld1167
Jan 2, 2006, 2:47 PM
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And check out the color "Anthracite"
Grey has never sounded so good!
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anykineclimb
Jan 2, 2006, 3:08 PM
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In reply to: Note the added front hole so the device can be released from auto-block to lower a climber!
Dude.
Did you even READ this thread?:roll:
(head slap smiley)
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keithlester
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Jan 5, 2006, 8:11 PM
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has anybody read the BD instructions pdf. Its abysmal. No way you can use it to get an idea whether you might want to buy it or no. I would buy it at the price if I was sure it would be better than the Reversino from Petzl, but I am sceptical and remain to be convinced :roll:
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bobruef
Jan 5, 2006, 8:42 PM
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I don't know, I think it seems like a fairly obvious choice for me. I've used and loved my atc-xp on ropes from 10.5 down to 8.5 mm. It feeds smother, and catches better than my reverso. Not to mention that it raps better. The mechanism of the autolocking feature isn't complex, and was a common sense addtion to a terrific device.
I've always wished my reverso was a nice with the rope as my atcxp, and that my atcxp could have the functionality of my reverso.
I placed an order. I wonder if its available yet, or if that order I placed will end up being more like a pre-order.
Anywho, I think that this thing's got the potential to be the coolest thing out since... well...
http://www.ciadvertising.org/...d-sliced%20bread.jpg
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vegastradguy
Jan 5, 2006, 9:17 PM
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sit tight folks- rumor has it that the rc.com booty crew will be posting a review on this device shortly.....
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chanceboarder
Jan 5, 2006, 10:02 PM
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In reply to: I placed an order. I wonder if its available yet, or if that order I placed will end up being more like a pre-order. |
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bobruef
Jan 6, 2006, 8:09 PM
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Emailed bd today (I know, I know, but I've just been pretty excited about getting this damned thing).
They shipped it!
So its confirmed, they are available from the Black Diamond site
www.bdel.com
I'm getting mine on the 13th . I'll try and get out climbing that weekend, and post a review asap!
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bobruef
Jan 13, 2006, 4:00 PM
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it's here! Review coming soon, and pics, side by side w/ my xp (for comparison).
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chanceboarder
Jan 13, 2006, 4:07 PM
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yeah, mine came Tuesday and so far only been able to try it out in the gym a couple time. feeds and takes in slack just as nice as the ATC XP. feels slightly heavier then the ATC XP though. just messing around with the autolock feature it seems to take in slack and lock up just as well as my reverso. i haven't had the chance to try and lower anything with it in the autolock mode yet so only time will tell. overall i like it a lot and think BD came out with another good belay device.
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