Delicate Arch climb has park chief red in the face
By Lisa J. Church
Special to The Tribune





Dean Potter climbs Delicate Arch, one of the most popular sandstone arches, at Arches National Park early Sunday. Authorities are not amused. (Photo courtesy of Dean Potter)

MOAB - For almost 12 years, Dean Potter studied the tiny cracks and crevices in Delicate Arch, searching out potential fingerholds and footholds that could aid his ascent of Utah's most famous icon.
On Sunday morning, Potter, a professional climber known for his speed and agility, put that research to the test, successfully scaling the 45-foot monument "free solo" - without the aid of ropes and other climbing gear. But the 34-year-old part-time Moab resident's achievement doesn't sit well with National Park Service officials and some fellow climbing enthusiasts.
"I'm very sorry to see someone do this to Utah's most visible icon," said the park's superintendent, Laura Joss. "I would just ask if they think it's a good idea to encourage this."
Potter believed that as long as he used no fixed anchors and did not damage the rock, he was free to climb Delicate Arch.
Not so, says Joss.
It was an idea that Potter, a climbing ambassador for outdoor-gear company Patagonia, could not get out of his head.
"For the past four years or so, I've been going up there kind of obsessively and looking at it in every possible light," Potter said Tuesday. "When I realized I was going to try this, I started going out to it more and more frequently."
Feeling his way along the rock face early Sunday morning, Potter inched his way to the top of Delicate Arch, stood on the flat, wide shelf and looked out over the Moab Valley.
"This was one of the most beautiful climbs I've ever done," Potter said. "For me, it was just an overwhelming experience, as if the formation was vibrating with energy."
Once atop the arch, Potter lowered a string to retrieve a climbing rope to make his descent. He says he climbed Delicate Arch "several times in a two-hour period." Even one time is too many, Joss said.
"The intent of our [regulations] is that all named arches are closed to climbing," Joss said. "If the compendium is found not to be sufficient, we will work with our solicitor posthaste to put a closure on Delicate Arch immediately."
Arches allows climbing


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in some areas, and Joss said that in the past climbers have respected the rules, which include prohibitions on climbing the park's most famous rock formations.
Matt Moore, owner of Desert Highlights, a climbing outfitter in Moab, said he has always understood that park regulations prohibit climbing on Delicate Arch.
"Probably every climber looks at it and thinks it would be great to climb Delicate Arch," Moore said. "On the one hand, it was probably a great ascent for Dean, but at the same time, I can't condone it because it is against park regulations."
Patagonia's publicity department initially alerted the media to Potter's ascent, but indicated it may back off on further promotions after learning that Potter may have broken park service regulations.
His Delicate Arch ascent marks the second time in as many years that Potter has come to the attention of Arches officials. The park recently changed its regulations to prohibit "slacklining" - a sport in which flexible nylon rope is stretched between two points, often over a steep fissure, and walked like a tightrope - after Potter slacklined the Three Gossips, another well-known rock formation in the park, Joss said.
Potter said he took great care to leave Delicate Arch undisturbed, and he is unapologetic about undertaking the challenge.
"I am very conscientious about following nature's rules. I respected the arch to the fullest. I did no more than blow a little dust off a few handholds," Potter said. "What has our world come to if we cannot join nature by climbing one of nature's most beautiful features?"
_________________

According to the thread linked to in the OP, someone in Utah should have seen the report on the nightly news.........anyone?
As far as I can tell, it would have been 'brought to you by Steve Baron, the weather guy' :P

I live in SLC and know Mr. Baron. I will watch the show, tape it, and possible post it here.

I hope they had permission. Otherwise we will be taking a step backwards in access.

I kind of would assume they would have permission, if Steve is interviewing them.

...the inconsiderate asshat should be hung by his testicles from the arch. Thanks for potentially screwing up access issues in an already sensitive area.

Regulations

Use of motorized drills is prohibited.
Climbing is prohibited on any arch identified on current USGS 7.5 minute topographical maps; on Balanced Rock year-round; on Bubo from January 1st to June 30th; on Industrial Disease on the Devil Dog Spire from January 1st to June 30th.
The use of chalk for climbing must be of a color which blends with the native rock.

i just saw the news report on Potter's climb. The ranger they interviewed seemed pretty upset, but he didn't break any laws, from what they said it seemed he more manipulated the law than anything else. i'm not sure exactly, wasn't all that clear. they did interview dean, he haid some good things to say. had some cool footage too of him on it. looked well within his comfort level. i think it was a pretty cool feet, hopefully it doesn't screw up access issues or cause too much drama.

Regulations


Climbing is prohibited on any arch identified on current USGS 7.5 minute topographical maps;

The use of chalk for climbing must be of a color which blends with the native rock.

Let me requote or those who don't get it.


If nothing else, he used white chalk on THE most popular visual piece of the park, and did it on Fox13 news. Great publicity for us all.

BLAH,BLAH,BLAH

http://www.frontiernet.net/...hread%20congrats.jpg

Isn't white the usual color of bird s---? How more natural can you get? :D

Curt

Congratulations on your worshipping of your hero and his potential limiting of YOURs and others privelege of climbing in Arches. :roll:

Maybe you could get some kneepads, and continue sucking.

HA! :righton:

Right now all indications are that the Park Service is pissed at DP and not the climbing community as a whole.

Fine, maybe the park won't change it's regulations. And maybe I'm the only one who is disturbed.

But in the end, the climbing community doesn't make the regulations, the park officials do. And it's alot harder to reverse restrictions than it is to tread lightly and keep the current priveleges intact.

I don't defecate in my backyard, and I would hope other climbers would realize it stinks when they do so, and it's not fun cleaning up the resulting mess.

This is not Community. Please elevate the discourse accordingly. Ullr, would you please consider changing your thread title to reflect my request?

RC.com

Mack.. first.. i think J_ung should have addressed you instead of Ullr. Your posts are not helpful to this thread.

this is an access issue in the Moab region... illegally climbing places will only piss off the land managers and cause everyone to lose out. they could say "no climbing on any arch. period." and because of one person everyone would be effected.

Pretty high profile stunt. And, filmed, of course. I always get a kick out of these stunts, especially where the person that does them conveys some sort of spiritual connection or special-ness associated with the event. Seems diminished when it shows up on film. This could have been done low profile and privately. Also, other un named arches aren't off limits. Ugh. Selfish, IMHO.

brianinslc wrote:

Pretty high profile stunt. And, filmed, of course. I always get a kick out of these stunts, especially where the person that does them conveys some sort of spiritual connection or special-ness associated with the event. Seems diminished when it shows up on film. This could have been done low profile and privately. Also, other un named arches aren't off limits. Ugh. Selfish, IMHO.

Thanks Potter, for so visually giving climbers a bad reputation in the park. And thanks to the tool from the climbing shop who thought his climb should be praised. :roll:

Thus the free spirit of climbing is chained by corporate rule makers and their drones.

f--- THAT!

I'm tired of this ambassador s---. I don't want none a yall button down, cardigan wearing Yale types representing me.

DMT

Thus the free spirit of climbing is chained by corporate rule makers and their drones.

f--- THAT!

I'm tired of this ambassador s---. I don't want none a yall button down, cardigan wearing Yale types representing me.

DMT

This isn't the 1970's fantasy land you're living in. We have potential consequences for our actions.

Remember Hueco? Used to be a great place in the good 'ol days.

ps. If Sherman hadn't advertised Hueco and brought in the masses, quien sabe?

3) There are hints in other posts that Patagonia some how sponsored this climb? Is there any evidence of this? At the very least I think this stunt should cause Patagonia to question their sponsorship of Potter - I don't think he's a good advocate for their values. If Patagonia is at all complicit in the climb (i.e. involved in filming, using photographs in upcoming catalogues, etc.) then they too have lost some of my respect as a company.

Patagonia's publicity department initially alerted the media to Potter's ascent, but indicated it may back off on further promotions after learning that Potter may have broken park service regulations.

isn't this exactly what potter did - advertise?

I live in 2006 when a so-called conservative president wants to sell off millions of acres of public land to pay his war debts.

"If the compendium is found not to be sufficient, we will work with our solicitor posthaste to put a closure on Delicate Arch immediately."

I deserved that, but I live in no fantasy land. I live in 2006 when a so-called conservative president wants to sell off millions of acres of public land to pay his war debts.

In that climate, I just do not care if Potter climbs Washington's Nose on Rushmore either.

DMT

ps. If Sherman hadn't advertised Hueco and brought in the masses, quien sabe?

To the jackass that complained about the media and then asked to see the pictures... you weren't even kidding were you? Amazing... you b---- about sensitive access and how wrong it was for it to be filmed and photographed but everyone wants to see the picture all the same. Good luck convincing yourself that isn't hypocritical.

Let me pose a question... if Potter had climbed that thing and only told a bud or two, and nothing else... how would that affect your opinion of the whole thing? So instead of reading about it here, you hear it from your Bro one night at the Climber's Bar...'say, didjya hear Potter bagged Delicate Arch?"

All quiet, hush hush, strictly on the Q T. Still warrant comdemnation?

Who said anything about George Bush?! Is everything a f*cking travesty with you?

http://battellemedia.com/images/walter_can.jpg

I'm not sure I understand your logic. Because our president is abusing public land we should too? Apathy is a very poor why of fighting a tryanny.

Let me pose a question... if Potter had climbed that thing and only told a bud or two, and nothing else... how would that affect your opinion of the whole thing? So instead of reading about it here, you hear it from your Bro one night at the Climber's Bar...'say, didjya hear Potter bagged Delicate Arch?"

All quiet, hush hush, strictly on the Q T. Still warrant comdemnation?

Just curious...

DMT

Let me pose a question... if Potter had climbed that thing and only told a bud or two, and nothing else... how would that affect your opinion of the whole thing?

Let me pose a question... if Potter had climbed that thing and only told a bud or two, and nothing else... how would that affect your opinion of the whole thing?

Oh that's right, Potter and Thesenga are both your heros. Asswipes.

If Potter somehow damaged Delicate Arch by climbing it then it seems to me that ALL climbing on public land is damaging. We are appealed to as a group... and are asked to think of how land managers view us because of one climber.

So I posited another view... a view of ALL OF THEM through the prism of one president. If its good for Potter its good for Bush.

I think many fine comments and points have been made concerning the publicity angle of this thing. Cool.

But I'm not really speaking to that. I'm speaking to a sentiment that seems to suggest that any breaking of the rules by any climber is a moral deficiency. I've climbed in restricted areas and I won't apologize for it.

I don't care if 'us' is outraged by my transgressions. I wouldn't have called 'us' for bail money iof it came to that either.

I wonder how much Bush would take for Delicate Arch?

DMT

IT WAS RAD!!! Get over the politics what a awesome first!

THAT IS SUCH BULL SH*T!!! Tools simply destroy the rock!!!
Who ever is doing that crap STOP!

krusher wrote:

weren't you the one freaking out about people dry tooling routes?

yea i thought so..

I'm speaking to a sentiment that seems to suggest that any breaking of the rules by any climber is a moral deficiency. I've climbed in restricted areas and I won't apologize for it.

I don't care if 'us' is outraged by my transgressions. I wouldn't have called 'us' for bail money iof it came to that either.

However, if getting caught means further access restrictions or a complete closure, you've affected others, I begin to question that.

There's nothing wrong with what Dean did. Sure he pissed off the park, but sense you can't climb arches anyway it won't affect access. The chalk will wash off. I don't think other climbers will be lining up for that one.

But it's all good for ol' Dingus, anything goes as long as it's climbers being climbers.

When he brought the film crew along and publicized the event, he made himself an ambassador of some kind.

I don't think that was Dingus' point at all.

But it's all good for ol' Dingus, anything goes as long as it's climbers being climbers.

and anyone who disagrees with the party line is a drone.

Let's attempt to use some reasoning:

Example one:
Dean Potter breaks a climbing rule/law in a National Park.
Park Authorities take away climbing for everyone.

Example two:
Someone illegally breaks the speed limit.
Highway Patrol takes away all driving privileges to licensed drivers.

This lacks reasoning.
As such, it seems the Park Authorities are trying to specifically bully the climbers.
Laws/rules will be broken, by climbers and tourists - anybody. It will happen.

Of most concern is why the National Park Service reacts with such a dictator-esque, extreme response?


Of Note - Dean Potter's effort left no trace.
I see the trace of tourists dumping trash out of their car windows at National Parks incessantly.

Let's attempt to use some reasoning:

Example one:
Dean Potter breaks a climbing rule/law in a National Park.
Park Authorities take away climbing for everyone.

Example two:
Someone illegally breaks the speed limit.
Highway Patrol takes away all driving privileges to licensed drivers.

This lacks reasoning.
As such, it seems the Park Authorities are trying to specifically bully the climbers.
Laws/rules will be broken, by climbers and tourists - anybody. It will happen.

Of most concern is why the National Park Service reacts with such a dictator-esque, extreme response?


Of Note - Dean Potter's effort left no trace.
I see the trace of tourists dumping trash out of their car windows at National Parks incessantly.

climbers are a paradox: we talk about the beauty of the land in tones of worship; we claim to be commited to the purity of our wild places...but, our passion promotes the opposite...i imagine for most people, there is nothing beautiful about some nuts hanging on the side of el cap; we rail about the tourons in their suvs, but we are also blots on the landscape...and climbing accelerates erosion; there is nothing pure about campgrounds, trails, bolts, protection, chalk, rubber shoes, etc.

rather than be thankful for all the amazing places we can climb, we complain about the few we can't...we act as if we are entitled to climb--we're not...the national parks belong to us, which means we are the stewards of the land...we have an obligation (moral?) to protect these lands even (especially?) from ourselves...but as humans, we can rationalize our most selfish acts even as we condemn others who truly may have the most selfless intentions

the arches are special because they are so fragile...el cap will fall some day, but there is a real likelihood that we'll lose some of the arches in our lifetimes...consider this: if we drill in anwr, we will definitely cause harm, but our impact will definitely disappear after we leave; it might take a thousand years, but the tundra will come back...dean potter's 200-pounds likely caused in a few minutes the same erosion that naturally would have taken several years...if that arch falls tomorrow, it will NEVER return

dean potter is a most fortunate man; he has a life that most of us would consider ideal...he is a gifted climber; his wife is beautiful and an equally gifted climber; he can travel all over the world and climb in places most of us can only dream about--on somebody else's dime...he seems to have it all...why did he need that climb, too? this is a classic example of hubris, where the hero sees only himself

the fact is, the nps must come down hard on potter; otherwise, they invite every climber to repeat potter's stunt (with all the publicity, that's all it is), but they are charged--by us--to protect those arches--for us...and many of us will still rant about "leos" and fascist regulations

Article Last Updated: 05/09/2006 02:26:40 PM MDT

Update: Park officials say arch climbing is forbidden
The Salt Lake Tribune


Officials at Arches National Park issued a statement today that underscores its prohibition of climbers on arches or natural bridges in the park located north of Moab in southeastern Utah. The statement follows Sunday morning's so-called "free climb" of Delicate Arch by Moab resident Dean Potter. The statement says: "Effective May 9, 2006, under the authority of Title 36 Code of Federal Regulations (CFR), Part 1, Section 1.5(a)(1), all rock climbing or similar activities on any arch or natural bridge named on the United States Geological Survey 7.5 minute topographical maps covering Arches National Park are prohibited. "In addition, 'slacklining' in Arches National Park is prohibited. Slacklining
is defined as walking on a rope or other line that is anchored between rock formations, trees, or any other natural features. Height of the rope above the ground is immaterial. "These closures are based upon a determination that such action is necessary for the maintenance of public health and safety, protection of environmental or scenic values, protection of natural resources and avoidance of conflict among visitor use activities."

Correct, it will not have any effect on the policy banning climbing on named arches. They will remain closed. However, the point is that it could potentially affect access to other, currently legal climbing opportunities in the park.

Did I really just need to point that out?

so when he rapped off did he just through the rope around the arch or what? he left nothing and that seems like the only way to get down without down-climbing. and with how wide it is on top that would definitly do some damage pulling the rope when he was down.