We've been working on the new project on the main wall and left a draw on the third bolt to prevent rope drag. However some idiot must of thought we just forgot it there because it is missing now. Its really not a big deal, they are only $10. BUT its just the point, you leave draws that are hanging, its just common knowledge. Plus its not like you sent the project so WTF. That would be like going to summersville and thinking you've hit the goldmine of free quickdraws on the collesium wall. Just dumb.

I agree with crazy here, cleaning someone's gear on rap and taking it is kinda b.s. If they climb the route and take it along the way thinking it is booty, thats one thing but I feel the route needs to be send to claim booty.

That would be like going to summersville and thinking you've hit the goldmine of free quickdraws on the collesium wall. Just dumb.

fair enough, but you got higher on the route right? if you didn't finish the route, and took the bail biner, howd you get off the route? just curious.

I agree with crazy here, cleaning someone's gear on rap and taking it is kinda b.s. If they climb the route and take it along the way thinking it is booty, thats one thing but I feel the route needs to be send to claim booty.

I've solo'd up to booty gear in the gunks, then downclimbed back to my pack several times... did I break the booty law by not finishing the route?

I'll go back and put it back on lead, and have my second clean it.

I've solo'd up to booty gear in the gunks, then downclimbed back to my pack several times... did I break the booty law by not finishing the route?

That must have been one nice piece of booty to risk it without protection.

Booty is best taken without protection.

not if it has been well used and abused.

Hehe.Tricky. Although, I think your second may now be able to claim the piece as their booty.

That must have been one nice piece of booty to risk it without protection.

Evidence of what? That somebody put 2 more bolts in? Could there seriously be drama over bolting at Breakneck?

It's bad form to bolt unprotectable face climbs? Damnit, i'm selling my gri-gri and quickdraws.

Not a modern view, I know, but many consider it bad form to bolt a face that can be easily top-roped. I've only been there once (many, many years ago), so my memory of the place is hazy in terms of the TR set-ups.

No they did not…. I was up there last week running laps and noticed the new mad-rock bolts everywhere. Al and Mike said they don’t know anything about them ,and Steve from the EC said no one asked for permission from the conservancy.

As for the stolen draw. I was told, Bloom U was there last weekend and they probably took your draw as booty. They were also at paradise bailed all over the place as I found out yesterday. Thanks for the donations. Come back any time…

Oh shit… I see… I read main wall and since there was allot of bolting going on in the area I figured it was the same area.

Can I have some?

Pull up a chair my good man.

It looks like the fireworks are mostly over but theres no reason we can't hang out, have a few beers and hope the fall out starts a brush fire.

I'm enjoying a Sierra Nevada Porter. You?

If you are not strong enough to do it . Work on it until you get it, or leave it for the next person. Without changing the climb. I thought you may like this Joey.

The Bicycle Route
“The climb has one of the most colorful histories of any rout in the area. To ensure the facts are recorded with some degree of accuracy, the story will be told in full. While cleaning the rout on rappel in 1976, Ed Webster placed a bolt on the final slab, then was unable to even climb up to it. Everyone got a chuckle out of this, but the best was yet to come. Several years later, just for fun, Alain Comeau and several conspirators “barrowed” Webster’s ten speed bicycle, rappelling down, and hung it off the offensive bolt, no doubt as a warning against any future ethical slippages! Paul Ross even went so far as to sneak Webster’s camera along to photograph the event for posterity. But - as fate would have it - John Bragg & Jay Wilson were climbing INTIMIDATION later that same day. One can only imagine their incredulity upon noticing a ten speed bicycle suspended out in the middle of a blank wall, and the subsequent argument over who saw it first! The bicycle was speedily rescued, albeit on top-rope. When the conspirators discovered the premature rescue of the bicycle, it was seized from Bragg and Wilson, and returned to its ignominious perch for the second time in the same day! There it remained for about two weeks until Webster finally rescued it - and alas, the poor bicycle was never quite the same again. On September 23, 1980, Ed Webster & Susan Patenaude made the routes first ascent, but found an easier way around the famous bicycle bolt - which was finally incorporated into the next variation. Training Wheels I, 5.11b R…“
(p.181-182 Rock climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire 3rd ed / By Ed Webster)

If I see a single draw hanging. It's mine.

If I see a line of draws on a hard route. I'll kill anyone that thinks of taking them.

I think most climbers realize that this is the common practice. If not, they end up whining about stolen bail biners and such.

Anyone notice the OP never came back?

He's still out looking for his draw.

I think he was a troll. A very successful one.

Hey Pete, do you have a bike?

Now i've come along and added TWO BOLTS to it and every body shits their pants. Did i ask permission?? No i did not, i didn't realize Tim anderson or the Conservancy owns breakneck.

You realize a lot of people are going to have a problem with your attitude right here? Okay. Just checking.

A cup of green tea actually. I don't drink much anymore, I'll clink your glass anyway though.

Woah i didn't realize i caused such a ruckus here! Yea the draw got bootyfied, but you guys have to realize that this place is small. And the draw was in a location to help OTHER people to avoid rope drag as well. Oh well, who cares really about the draw, I dont. Just getting some insight

AS FOR the first ascent of the climb? i dont really give a fuck if i have the first ascent. I was just trying to help out the small climbing community around here by adding a new quality variation. I didn't realize that anyone had climbed this route because it was not recorded in the database. In a small area you would expect every line to be at least recorded. Tim anderson has the first ascent, does that make everyone feel better?? Now i've come along and added TWO BOLTS to it and every body shits their pants. Did i ask permission?? No i did not, i didn't realize Tim anderson or the Conservancy owns breakneck.

As for Joeforte, Fuck you sir. Dont start shit you dont even know about. You've got beat up by diesel's start and you've obviously flashed the route in question??? I think not, because with everyone else it seems to be the opposite. Yea i do have a bicycle, do you want to borrow it so you can waist your time hanging it on my own bolts? Go ahead. The variation is much HARDER then the original.

As for Tim, We appologize in that we claimed a first ascent. Thats not was we are really concerned about, just trying to help out and add some more lines in our small sport climbing community. These bolts are safe and well placed, and add a cool variation to an existing climb. No hard feelings as always

Who leaves draws behind so others can have a directional? Can't they use their own? The cliff is dead vertical, with an easy walkoff and bolted anchors. You obviously left the draw for yourself.

And you think you were doing the climbing community a favor by adding a 2 bolt variation on a developed crag without asking anyone from the community? You've got your ethics backwards man.

As for apologizing to Tim, I think the least you could do is change your bogus little FA on this site to his. In case you haven't noticed, you are the only one to add any FA info for a route at Breakneck. And you say you don't give a fuck about the FA? BULLSHIT

About the only way to keep your draw is to do what other suggest, put a hardware store hex locking gate biner, its not worth the struggle and is recognizable as a draw meant to stay for a reason.... on many a trip to the red I've been fortunate enough to stumble across draws on the first bolt on some walls such as the practice wall.... come on now, bailing on the first bolt......I'm not the best climber by far... maybe striking a 5.11 at the most right now.... but leaving gear one move up is asking for it......"kinda make me feel like river dancing"

And as much as I don’t like Joey... I can’t believe I am agreeing with him . He is correct in everything he just said. I know he has not been climbing as long as some of us, but he is a strong boy, and getting stronger. I think he was humoring you when he said he got spit off the start of that climb.... Now remember this always… I HATE you, for making me agree with Joey. Don’t ever cross paths with me boy…You better make it right with the FA you disrespectful fuck….

But as to the whipper, i think they would be safe using them on the lower bolt placements..... I would def be using my regular racked draws on the higher bolts of course....that is... if i could get that high!!!!

I recall reading somewhere about some quick link tests - it may have been on this site.

Bit if I wanted a perma-draw on a quick link? I think I would go with a FIXE or Pretzel quick link due to QC issues.

The route is an old TR line that is to the left of the center scramble. We climbed it back in 2000/2001? Thought it was too short for bolts. CraziePetie and friends bolted it over the winter (not my work). .......

not true, some are rate upwards of 60kn....... do the research buddy...... they rely totally on closed gate strength though, So.. depends on which size you buy, 1/2" are rated to 14000lbs.....proof is in the pudding. By the way, FIXE hardware is the same metal.....The guy who manufactured it agrees... or at least i agree with him.

I've been meaning to ask you Lazlo


are you the REAL Lazlo?

Or an imposter?



Are you a heavy duty water buffalo type?

You might be interested... my daughter got ahold of "The Boys on the Bus." When I saw her reading that I got her to watch Where the Buffalo Roam... and it finally gor weird enough for us.

DMT

[quote "CrazyPetie
Weren't you the one who was talking about the wrong crag all the way on the other side of the state?? Yea you have no idea if it is a trad climb because its not the same place....

The route is an old TR line that is to the left of the center scramble. We climbed it back in 2000/2001? Thought it was too short for bolts. CraziePetie and friends bolted it over the winter (not my work). .......

"Lazlo" was my Starbucks name for awhile. I never use my real name (Arean. No explaination needed, I assume.) It's apperantly a Hungarian name. A good friend of mine spent a year in Hungary. He told me I should call myself Lazlo in Starbucks. It's stuck since then.

I don't even know to what you are refering, to be honest.