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What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner?
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rockreaver


Jul 27, 2009, 5:21 PM
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What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner?
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I'm just curious what you carry on your "last resort" biner? This week I climbed with a few guys that showed me what they carried on theirs. Simple stuff for the most part. Prussik cord, Tibloc Ascender, plastic pulley's...

When doing a multi-pitch climb what do you make sure you don't leave the ground without?

If you have a photo that would be cool. Sometimes the jargon/slang terms for things can be lost in translation. I remember reading a catfight here recently where someone acted like a klemheist was an autoblock and such...

So what's on your "biner of last resort"?


Skidemon27


Jul 27, 2009, 5:30 PM
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prussic,tibloc, depending on the day a beer.

but usually never ever leave the ground without my, atc guide,prussic, tribloc, and a PAS.....even on my top rope and not trad...cause u never know when u wanna clip in and hangout (smoke,picture, or enjoy the veiw.)


acorneau


Jul 27, 2009, 5:31 PM
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rockreaver wrote:
So what's on your "biner of last resort"?

I keep a small locker with a Tibloc on my harness all the time. I'll add a 48" sling with 2 biners when I'm climbing outdoors.

Other than that, I usually carry way more lockers than I really need.


sungam


Jul 27, 2009, 5:42 PM
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3 prussiks. A spare belay plate if I'm with a n00b.


coastal_climber


Jul 27, 2009, 5:58 PM
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4 prussiks, 1 pulley, knife.


debaser655321


Jul 27, 2009, 6:01 PM
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prussic, tibloc, rap ring, knife/bottle opener, all on a leaver 'biner.


irregularpanda


Jul 27, 2009, 6:03 PM
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My brain and a plan of attack.


squishy654


Jul 27, 2009, 6:22 PM
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One pink tri-cam...


moose_droppings


Jul 27, 2009, 6:31 PM
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Depends where and what I'm on.
On my leaver biner is my nut tool, if need be it can be transferred to another biner if I got to bail. Two 5' looped pieces of webbing are girth hitched to my gear sling with a rap ring on one. I also carry two prusiks made out of 7mm cord that reside on their own superfly locker, they too can be transferred to another biner if I'm desperate for a locker. A small knife and a pair of leather "mechanix' gloves are always with me.


hafilax


Jul 27, 2009, 6:33 PM
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1 prussik on a locker and a locker on my nut tool. I lost my knife and really should get another one.

I might get one of these for those other 'oh shit' moments.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...rum.cgi?post=2174436



healyje


Jul 27, 2009, 6:34 PM
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Re: [acorneau] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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acorneau wrote:
I keep a small locker with a Tibloc on my harness all the time. I'll add a 48" sling with 2 biners when I'm climbing outdoors.

Have to ask, what do/would you do with Tibloc indoors?


time2clmb


Jul 27, 2009, 6:35 PM
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Re: [rockreaver] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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Practice self rescue and you will realize that you don't really need a pulley or tiblocs ect. 2 lengths of cordalette will do just fine and slings will do if you don't have those. The main thing is to practice with no specialized stuff that you would normally have with you anyways.


rockreaver


Jul 27, 2009, 7:21 PM
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Re: [time2clmb] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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I'm thinking of just carrying a WWII style pineapple grenade. Presently I'm not able to think of a problem that won't solve.

- Need a hold? -solved-
- Hate your partner? -solved-
- Need to make sure you don't feel it tomorrow? -solved-
- Fun joke on your belay drop that from 100' up? -solved-
- Want to climb but a snake is at the start? -solved-
- The SAR team cannot find you. -solved-
- Cannot get your beer open? -solved-
- Tired of conga line at the base? -solved-

I mean frankly there are few problems that a good pineapple frag won't solve. Tongue


shimanilami


Jul 27, 2009, 7:44 PM
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Re: [rockreaver] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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On "last resort" bail 'biner, there's a prussik, shortish cord-o, rap ring, spare ATC, and knife.

On multi-pitch, I carry an ATC-G and a cord-o on my harness. I put a headlamp in my pocket if there is even a remote possibility that I'll need it.


markc


Jul 27, 2009, 7:57 PM
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Re: [rockreaver] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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Emergency 'biner: tibloc, rap ring, length of supertape (works for anchor replacement and/or bailing), knife. I usually have a couple extra biners, as well.


chadnsc


Jul 27, 2009, 8:25 PM
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Re: [rockreaver] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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Knife
Prussic Loop
Wind Shirt
Energy Gel
Insulin
Syringes
Blood Sugar Meter (I'm diabetic)

Now this stuff isn't all on a biner mind you. With the exception of the knife and prussic everything is stored in a second gutted chalk bag with a zippered closure.


acorneau


Jul 27, 2009, 8:27 PM
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Re: [healyje] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
acorneau wrote:
I keep a small locker with a Tibloc on my harness all the time. I'll add a 48" sling with 2 biners when I'm climbing outdoors.

Have to ask, what do/would you do with Tibloc indoors?

I use it occasionally while route-setting. If I'm high on a ladder and it's getting shaky, I'll toss it on a nearby rope (along with my Purcell prussic) and snug it up, just in case I lose my balance.

[edit for spelling]


(This post was edited by acorneau on Jul 27, 2009, 8:31 PM)


dingus


Jul 27, 2009, 8:32 PM
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I don't carry an oh shit biner. I do carry a harness knife. I'll have a headlamp on me someplace, if I reckon I might need it. More stuff, goal, season and weather dependant.

Rarely bother with prusik cords (redundant) for free climbing - I carry slings, good enough in a pinch.

Don't own a tibloc and don't see the reason for one.

Plastic pulleys? For free climbing? I can't imagine ....

Is an empty oh shit biner indicative of some fundamental lacking on the climber's part?

Or does it show she has her SHIT TOGETHER, instead?

Quien sabe???


vegastradguy


Jul 27, 2009, 8:39 PM
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for those carrying a tibloc, be mindful that the tibloc works better with thick carabiners, the thinner ones can allow the device to slip and shred your line.

i carry a OP rap ring and a sterling hollow block (prusik) on a small locker on the back of my harness. i wouldnt, though, call this my 'oh shit' biner- rather, just sort of a utlility biner that carries a couple of items that are nice to have.


Partner j_ung


Jul 27, 2009, 8:44 PM
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Re: [rockreaver] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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rockreaver wrote:
I'm thinking of just carrying a WWII style pineapple grenade. Presently I'm not able to think of a problem that won't solve.

- Need a hold? -solved-
- Hate your partner? -solved-
- Need to make sure you don't feel it tomorrow? -solved-
- Fun joke on your belay drop that from 100' up? -solved-
- Want to climb but a snake is at the start? -solved-
- The SAR team cannot find you. -solved-
- Cannot get your beer open? -solved-
- Tired of conga line at the base? -solved-

I mean frankly there are few problems that a good pineapple frag won't solve. Tongue

Hmm...

Flat tire on way to crag... no.
Forgot bowl for dog's water... nope.
Core-shot rope... definitely not.
Forgot lunch... maybe.

LaughLaugh I like this game!


Partner rgold


Jul 27, 2009, 10:12 PM
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Re: [j_ung] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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I have two small prussik loops and a small sharp knife in the zipper pocket of my chalk bag. I wouldn't necessarily carry that much on every climb, but having them in my chalk bag guarantees I will have them when I need them. On longer routes, I add a Petzl E-light.

If the route entails having the second carry a small pack (another discussion, I know) then there will be some extra webbing and a rap ring or two at the bottom.

I think a tibloc is a poor substitute for a prussik loop, which is more versatile. And plastic pulley wheels? These won't even work on most modern biners, and are of doubtful utility even on an oval. Personally, I think that anything that encourages a party to think that they might succeed in hauling a climber up a rock pitch may be a bad idea.


bill413


Jul 27, 2009, 10:43 PM
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Re: [j_ung] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
rockreaver wrote:
I'm thinking of just carrying a WWII style pineapple grenade. Presently I'm not able to think of a problem that won't solve.

- Need a hold? -solved-
- Hate your partner? -solved-
- Need to make sure you don't feel it tomorrow? -solved-
- Fun joke on your belay drop that from 100' up? -solved-
- Want to climb but a snake is at the start? -solved-
- The SAR team cannot find you. -solved-
- Cannot get your beer open? -solved-
- Tired of conga line at the base? -solved-

I mean frankly there are few problems that a good pineapple frag won't solve. Tongue

Hmm...

Flat tire on way to crag... no.
Forgot bowl for dog's water... nope.
Core-shot rope... definitely not.
Forgot lunch... maybe.

LaughLaugh I like this game!

Flat tire on way to crag...Isn't there a mythbusters episode about explosively inflating a tire? Wink
Forgot bowl for dog's water... Excavate a depression for water at the base of the crag.
Core-shot rope... Convinces another party to share/give their rope.


coastal_climber


Jul 27, 2009, 11:12 PM
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time2clmb wrote:
Practice self rescue and you will realize that you don't really need a pulley or tiblocs ect. 2 lengths of cordalette will do just fine and slings will do if you don't have those. The main thing is to practice with no specialized stuff that you would normally have with you anyways.

You don't, but the added speed of a pulley makes up for its weight, since rescue takes a fuck long time anyways.


mtnkid85


Jul 27, 2009, 11:31 PM
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I carry a small locker, with a small trango knife, and a tibloc on it. Used both more than once this season. No prussik- in a pinch my slings will do the job.


timh


Jul 27, 2009, 11:39 PM
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In reply to:
I'm thinking of just carrying a WWII style pineapple grenade. Presently I'm not able to think of a problem that won't solve.

Might to add flailing on a thin stance and grabbing the grenade as pro....problem solved


bill413


Jul 28, 2009, 12:03 AM
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timh wrote:
In reply to:
I'm thinking of just carrying a WWII style pineapple grenade. Presently I'm not able to think of a problem that won't solve.

Might to add flailing on a thin stance and grabbing the grenade as pro....problem solved

Gives new meaning to "sling the pin."


healyje


Jul 28, 2009, 12:48 AM
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acorneau wrote:
I use it occasionally while route-setting. If I'm high on a ladder and it's getting shaky, I'll toss it on a nearby rope (along with my Purcell prussic) and snug it up, just in case I lose my balance.

Ah, got it - don't care much for ladders myself.


healyje


Jul 28, 2009, 12:52 AM
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When things look to be going south the last thing on my mind is a biner or anything parked on one. Such things may be useful after the fact, but the game is typically over at that point and the epic has begun.


hafilax


Jul 28, 2009, 12:56 AM
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I'm surprised that so many carry tiblocs. They're a pricey piece with less versatility than a piece of cord IMO.

I like having a short length of 6mm cord instead of relying on my 7mm anchor cord or dyneema slings both of which are slightly less secure for friction hitches.


time2clmb


Jul 28, 2009, 12:58 AM
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In reply to:
You don't, but the added speed of a pulley makes up for its weight

Bzzzt try again.


joeforte


Jul 28, 2009, 1:08 AM
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acorneau wrote:
healyje wrote:
acorneau wrote:
I keep a small locker with a Tibloc on my harness all the time. I'll add a 48" sling with 2 biners when I'm climbing outdoors.

Have to ask, what do/would you do with Tibloc indoors?

I use it occasionally while route-setting. If I'm high on a ladder and it's getting shaky, I'll toss it on a nearby rope (along with my Purcell prussic) and snug it up, just in case I lose my balance.

[edit for spelling]

This is a bad idea. The tibloc should be set and weighted fully by hand. It is not meant to catch a fall. What's wrong with a simple clove hitch with an overhand backup?


Alpine07


Jul 28, 2009, 1:44 AM
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I would think that this would be the proper thing to keep on your "oh shit" biner.


acorneau


Jul 28, 2009, 1:47 AM
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joeforte wrote:
This is a bad idea. The tibloc should be set and weighted fully by hand. It is not meant to catch a fall. What's wrong with a simple clove hitch with an overhand backup?

Trust me, on our fat gym ropes they "set" just fine by themselves.

What's wrong with a clove hitch? Nothing, except you can't put on a clove hitch at the bottom of a ladder and have it follow you all the way up to the top.


joeforte


Jul 28, 2009, 1:59 AM
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acorneau wrote:
joeforte wrote:
This is a bad idea. The tibloc should be set and weighted fully by hand. It is not meant to catch a fall. What's wrong with a simple clove hitch with an overhand backup?

Trust me, on our fat gym ropes they "set" just fine by themselves.

What's wrong with a clove hitch? Nothing, except you can't put on a clove hitch at the bottom of a ladder and have it follow you all the way up to the top.

A clove hitch is commonly used to self belay when aid climbing. Aid is slow, but as slow as setting a route? It's not very hard to pay slack through a clove once you've done it a few times. Like I said before, sliding a tibloc up a rope as a rope-catch/self-belay is a really bad idea. Posting it on a beginners forum, is even worse.


acorneau


Jul 28, 2009, 2:14 AM
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joeforte wrote:
A clove hitch is commonly used to self belay when aid climbing. Aid is slow, but as slow as setting a route?


No, not setting a route, climbing a 20 foot ladder.

And I don't use it to "catch a fall", I get up on the ladder and if I feel off balance or unstable I'll use it as a backup with it already cinched up so all I would do is just sit on the rope.

In reply to:
Like I said before, sliding a tibloc up a rope as a rope-catch/self-belay is a really bad idea. Posting it on a beginners forum, is even worse.

I didn't post it as an instruction for beginners, Healyje asked me what I used mine for and I told him. Let it go.


ptlong


Jul 28, 2009, 2:45 AM
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Re: [rockreaver] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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rockreaver wrote:
I'm just curious what you carry on your "last resort" biner?

No biner. Just a small knife in my chalkbag. Maybe some tape.

Prusiks? I use slings. Tibloc? I'd bring prusik cords or real ascenders if I was planning on climbing the rope. Plastic pulley?? You're joking!

On long routes I will include a lighter (if there's wood) and a space blanket, but they don't go on a carabiner.


fullmonty


Jul 28, 2009, 3:04 AM
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My chalk bag is tied on with a section of 6mm cord. If you need more than that then you just might be a bit of a fukctard.
Headlamp? Come on, I have walked down in the dark after climbing Astroman and I didnt die.


rockreaver


Jul 28, 2009, 3:16 AM
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acorneau wrote:
Trust me, on our fat gym ropes they "set" just fine by themselves.

I thought the tibloc was what held the drink tray your beer sat on? Slide that baby up now and then and "enjoy your flight".

Oh wait... was that in the manual? HmmmmAngelic


MikeSaint


Jul 28, 2009, 3:36 AM
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I carry hammies [In reply to]
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Ham Sandwich.


dingus


Jul 28, 2009, 3:43 AM
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Re: [fullmonty] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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fullmonty wrote:
Come on, I have walked down in the dark after climbing Astroman and I didnt die.

are you sure???

DMT


Partner angry


Jul 28, 2009, 3:57 AM
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Re: [fullmonty] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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fullmonty wrote:
My chalk bag is tied on with a section of 6mm cord. If you need more than that then you just might be a bit of a fukctard.
Headlamp? Come on, I have walked down in the dark after climbing Astroman and I didnt die.

Personally I tie my chalkbag with a shoelace. I think that could be more useful than a little piece of rope would be.

Don't tell the fucktards though.


uni_jim


Jul 28, 2009, 4:57 AM
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Re: [fullmonty] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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fullmonty wrote:
My chalk bag is tied on with a section of 6mm cord. If you need more than that then you just might be a bit of a fukctard.
Headlamp? Come on, I have walked down in the dark after climbing Astroman and I didnt die.

if i am using my chalkbag belt to save my ass, then i must have made one big ass mistake somewhere, and probobly deserve to be stuck on the mountain so i can think about what i did.

as for a headlamp, you are right that we may not need one for some walkoffs, but it might help me to climb/rappell once the sun disappears.


trapdoor


Jul 28, 2009, 5:10 AM
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Re: [uni_jim] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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I don't see anything wrong with carrying someting that does double duty like a 6 mil cord for your chalk bag. Where could you go wrong with that?


mistajman


Jul 28, 2009, 5:31 AM
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Re: [rockreaver] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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My oh shit biner is a dmm revolver with two prusiks, an extra atc, an 8 foot sling, and a few quick links.


sungam


Jul 28, 2009, 5:33 AM
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Re: [angry] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
fullmonty wrote:
My chalk bag is tied on with a section of 6mm cord. If you need more than that then you just might be a bit of a fukctard.
Headlamp? Come on, I have walked down in the dark after climbing Astroman and I didnt die.

Personally I tie my chalkbag with a shoelace. I think that could be more useful than a little piece of rope would be.

Don't tell the fucktards though.
You mean there's other people around here you can talk to?
Send me yore address, bitch.


clintcummins


Jul 28, 2009, 6:41 AM
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Re: [fullmonty] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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fullmonty wrote:
My chalk bag is tied on with a section of 6mm cord. ...

Same here, except mine is 5mm. 5mm makes a great prusik. Sling OK for second prusik.
I have a tiny knife clipped to it with a tiny non-weight bearing biner.
I've found the knife useful for clearing slings out of bolt hangers.
No special biner, no lockers on my rack except one for my ATC and one more if I have my ascenders.


ski.ninja


Jul 28, 2009, 9:07 AM
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Re: [clintcummins] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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I have a couple of poop bags and some tissues on my 'Oh, Shit' biner.







































Wait, there's no comma in there.


joeforte


Jul 28, 2009, 11:59 AM
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Re: [trapdoor] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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trapdoor wrote:
I don't see anything wrong with carrying someting that does double duty like a 6 mil cord for your chalk bag. Where could you go wrong with that?

I think it's a great idea. Some guys are just too badass to admit that it is. I don't see a reason NOT to use 6mm cord as your chalkbag belt. I used mine to backup a bunch of sketchy rap slings in the Delaware Water Gap once. I was really glad I had it. I use a 6mm cord tied into a 48" runner, doubled over as my chalk bag belt. And like someone posted earlier, 6mm makes a better friction hitch than the 7mm cord my cordelette is made from

My Oh Shit biner has the following:

Petzl Attache locker (Can be used with a munter hitch for rap/belay)
2 5mm prussics
Trango Pirana knife
Tibloc
Small plastic pulley
A tiny LED light that clips to the brim of my helmet. (Saved my ass once already)
Kong Gigi belay plate
Quicklink
Rap ring
Tiny wrench (I do a lot of anchor replacement)

I'll take a picture and weight it later. I leave it on the ground for hard sport routes, but on anything else, I consider it "training weight". Wink


sungam


Jul 28, 2009, 1:50 PM
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Re: [angry] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
Personally I tie my chalkbag with a shoelace. I think that could be more useful than a little piece of rope would be.
But what if I only use velcros?
Mine is tied on with prussic cord, and (giggle) my pant belt is 1" tubular webbing.


rockreaver


Jul 28, 2009, 3:15 PM
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Re: [sungam] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
... and (giggle) my pant belt is 1" tubular webbing.

I've found that there is no better belt to be had. I've been using 1" webbing for a month and I won't be changing that any time soon. I never have to worry about anyone mistaking my buns for a handjam or sticking a camelot in there. OUCH! Wink

I've been passing out sections of 1" webbing to every plumber I meet. Most get the idea quick enough. I have had to sacrifice a few old cams to "educate" the few having trouble understanding though. No the idea of using a freenut to get it back just offends me.

What the hell am I talking about?Crazy Oh well just having a bit of fun while I wake up I suppose...Angelic


uni_jim


Jul 28, 2009, 7:54 PM
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Re: [joeforte] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
I don't see a reason NOT to use 6mm cord as your chalkbag belt. I used mine to backup a bunch of sketchy rap slings in the Delaware Water Gap once. I was really glad I had it.

i do not have a problem with using webbing or cord to tie up a chalkbag, i have a problem with not carrying enough slings/prusics/webbing for a route. I don't want to have to scavange every little bit of full strength whatever that i have on my person.


scrapedape


Jul 28, 2009, 8:27 PM
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Re: [joeforte] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
I was really glad I had it. I use a 6mm cord tied into a 48" runner, doubled over as my chalk bag belt.

Holy shit, what are you, like 10 years old or something?


bill413


Jul 28, 2009, 9:21 PM
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Re: [joeforte] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
trapdoor wrote:
I don't see anything wrong with carrying someting that does double duty like a 6 mil cord for your chalk bag. Where could you go wrong with that?

I think it's a great idea. Some guys are just too badass to admit that it is. I don't see a reason NOT to use 6mm cord as your chalkbag belt. I used mine to backup a bunch of sketchy rap slings in the Delaware Water Gap once. I was really glad I had it. I use a 6mm cord tied into a 48" runner, doubled over as my chalk bag belt. And like someone posted earlier, 6mm makes a better friction hitch than the 7mm cord my cordelette is made from

My Oh Shit biner has the following:

Petzl Attache locker (Can be used with a munter hitch for rap/belay)
2 5mm prussics
Trango Pirana knife
Tibloc
Small plastic pulley
A tiny LED light that clips to the brim of my helmet. (Saved my ass once already)
Kong Gigi belay plate
Quicklink
Rap ring
Tiny wrench (I do a lot of anchor replacement)

I'll take a picture and weight it later. I leave it on the ground for hard sport routes, but on anything else, I consider it "training weight". Wink

Why the belay plate when you have the HMS binr? Oh, and the pulley?


joeforte


Jul 29, 2009, 1:28 AM
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Re: [bill413] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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bill413 wrote:
joeforte wrote:
trapdoor wrote:
I don't see anything wrong with carrying someting that does double duty like a 6 mil cord for your chalk bag. Where could you go wrong with that?

I think it's a great idea. Some guys are just too badass to admit that it is. I don't see a reason NOT to use 6mm cord as your chalkbag belt. I used mine to backup a bunch of sketchy rap slings in the Delaware Water Gap once. I was really glad I had it. I use a 6mm cord tied into a 48" runner, doubled over as my chalk bag belt. And like someone posted earlier, 6mm makes a better friction hitch than the 7mm cord my cordelette is made from

My Oh Shit biner has the following:

Petzl Attache locker (Can be used with a munter hitch for rap/belay)
2 5mm prussics
Trango Pirana knife
Tibloc
Small plastic pulley
A tiny LED light that clips to the brim of my helmet. (Saved my ass once already)
Kong Gigi belay plate
Quicklink
Rap ring
Tiny wrench (I do a lot of anchor replacement)

I'll take a picture and weight it later. I leave it on the ground for hard sport routes, but on anything else, I consider it "training weight". Wink

Why the belay plate when you have the HMS binr? Oh, and the pulley?

The belay plate is for when my buddy drops/forgets his. The pulley makes a 5:1 SO much easier. Like I said, it's all on my haul loop and I don't even notice it.


(This post was edited by joeforte on Jul 29, 2009, 1:29 AM)


joeforte


Jul 29, 2009, 1:33 AM
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Re: [scrapedape] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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scrapedape wrote:
joeforte wrote:
I was really glad I had it. I use a 6mm cord tied into a 48" runner, doubled over as my chalk bag belt.

Holy shit, what are you, like 10 years old or something?

Why? I'm thin, a 30" waist to be exact. I think you took "doubled over" the wrong way. What I meant is that I don't just tie it as a single strand. It's pre-tied as a 48" runner, and I use it as a single strand.


rockreaver


Jul 30, 2009, 5:02 AM
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Re: [dingus] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
I don't carry an oh shit biner. I do carry a harness knife. I'll have a headlamp on me someplace, if I reckon I might need it. More stuff, goal, season and weather dependant.

Rarely bother with prusik cords (redundant) for free climbing - I carry slings, good enough in a pinch.

Don't own a tibloc and don't see the reason for one.

Plastic pulleys? For free climbing? I can't imagine ....

Is an empty oh shit biner indicative of some fundamental lacking on the climber's part?

Or does it show she has her SHIT TOGETHER, instead?

Quien sabe???

Been meaning to get back to you on this. I guess my notion of "Oh shit" has little or nothing to do with climbing. Everything that people have suggested I already have on my person in different machinations. I have some prussiks that are always on 2 gear loops spaced too far apart where I feel there's room for another gear loop. Dual function suits me well enough. I have not the slightest what I'd do with a tibloc or a plastic pulley.

However the replies I didn't see are actually what I carry in a fully water-tight ESD bag that has been taped to hell with duct tape in a way the tape is reuseable and I've got about 10 feet of it coiled around the bag. I have a wire loop threaded through all the contents of the bag and it sticks out a small hole that I can attach via cheapo-biner to anything. In the bag I have:

20 strike anywhere matches.
1 thermometer, small and cheap
1 compass small and cheap
1 mirror (very small) in a plastic sheath
1 very thin, very bright emergency panel that when hung out is visible from 2 miles or more on a clear day.
6 fish hooks
30 feet of fishing twine
2 sinkers (all the fishing stuff is in with the mirror).
1 needle
100' of thread (with dual medicinal applications)
2 spare buttons
a shoe lace
1 large plastic sheet (water barrier)

I have some other stuff all packed very tightly into something I hope to never open but just in case I do have it. It goes on my rear belay loop for multi-pitch or stays in my pack on TR days.

That's the oh-shit I'm thinking of. The oh-shit that something is terribly wrong and we have to make this work for a day or two.


scottydo


Jul 30, 2009, 6:03 AM
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Re: [rockreaver] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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a prussik loop and a texas prussik


dingus


Jul 30, 2009, 1:37 PM
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Re: [rockreaver] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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rockreaver wrote:
dingus wrote:
I don't carry an oh shit biner. I do carry a harness knife. I'll have a headlamp on me someplace, if I reckon I might need it. More stuff, goal, season and weather dependant.

Rarely bother with prusik cords (redundant) for free climbing - I carry slings, good enough in a pinch.

Don't own a tibloc and don't see the reason for one.

Plastic pulleys? For free climbing? I can't imagine ....

Is an empty oh shit biner indicative of some fundamental lacking on the climber's part?

Or does it show she has her SHIT TOGETHER, instead?

Quien sabe???

Been meaning to get back to you on this. I guess my notion of "Oh shit" has little or nothing to do with climbing. Everything that people have suggested I already have on my person in different machinations. I have some prussiks that are always on 2 gear loops spaced too far apart where I feel there's room for another gear loop. Dual function suits me well enough. I have not the slightest what I'd do with a tibloc or a plastic pulley.

However the replies I didn't see are actually what I carry in a fully water-tight ESD bag that has been taped to hell with duct tape in a way the tape is reuseable and I've got about 10 feet of it coiled around the bag. I have a wire loop threaded through all the contents of the bag and it sticks out a small hole that I can attach via cheapo-biner to anything. In the bag I have:

20 strike anywhere matches.
1 thermometer, small and cheap
1 compass small and cheap
1 mirror (very small) in a plastic sheath
1 very thin, very bright emergency panel that when hung out is visible from 2 miles or more on a clear day.
6 fish hooks
30 feet of fishing twine
2 sinkers (all the fishing stuff is in with the mirror).
1 needle
100' of thread (with dual medicinal applications)
2 spare buttons
a shoe lace
1 large plastic sheet (water barrier)

I have some other stuff all packed very tightly into something I hope to never open but just in case I do have it. It goes on my rear belay loop for multi-pitch or stays in my pack on TR days.

That's the oh-shit I'm thinking of. The oh-shit that something is terribly wrong and we have to make this work for a day or two.

Aye in the back country I have my 'ditty bag.'

Knife, extra lighter, tape, some pain medication, some smoke medication, maybe a compass (if I have a working one)... sunscreen, etc.

I like your little survival items though. Clearly you've given it a lot of thought and have a great oh shit kit.

Cheers
DMT


rockreaver


Jul 30, 2009, 3:40 PM
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Re: [dingus] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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What I want to get is a small dry bag for it all but haven't gotten around to it yet. The appeal of shiny climbing gear keeps taking control of my money. I'd like to get a small dry bag that I can put some other stuff in. I think it would be the best place for the porno-mag, water-bong, razor blades, hemp etc... That's what I love about climbing it's such a multi-purpose distraction. You climb... and then in camp you have to distraction yourself and your *all* female climbing partner(s). It's a lot for a guy to think about.

Need to figure out a way to get one of those portable soda fountains out into the boonies too. I'm convinced that a properly carbonated coke (the likes of what McDonald's serves) could very well save a life or two.

You know why it's called the "oh shit" bag? Because if the police ever caught me with it that's what I'd be thinking.WinkCoolBlushAngelicCrazyPirate


scrapedape


Jul 30, 2009, 4:01 PM
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Re: [joeforte] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
scrapedape wrote:
joeforte wrote:
I was really glad I had it. I use a 6mm cord tied into a 48" runner, doubled over as my chalk bag belt.

Holy shit, what are you, like 10 years old or something?

Why? I'm thin, a 30" waist to be exact. I think you took "doubled over" the wrong way. What I meant is that I don't just tie it as a single strand. It's pre-tied as a 48" runner, and I use it as a single strand.

Just giving you a hard time. 48" doubled over made it sound like you had a 24" waist. Still not clear what you're saying you do with it.


scrapedape


Jul 30, 2009, 4:20 PM
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Re: [rockreaver] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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rockreaver wrote:
20 strike anywhere matches.
1 thermometer, small and cheap
1 compass small and cheap
1 mirror (very small) in a plastic sheath
1 very thin, very bright emergency panel that when hung out is visible from 2 miles or more on a clear day.
6 fish hooks
30 feet of fishing twine
2 sinkers (all the fishing stuff is in with the mirror).
1 needle
100' of thread (with dual medicinal applications)
2 spare buttons
a shoe lace
1 large plastic sheet (water barrier)

Sounds like what they used to have us carry around in cub scouts. A couple of comments:

I think a lighter is much more valuable than matches. For the same amount of weight and space you can get hundreds of lights instead of 20.

I'm not sure I see the benefit of fishing tackle, buttons, and thread if you're just trying to survive for a couple of days. I'd be more worried about having drinkable water - maybe throw in some iodine tablets, possibly carry your whole oh shit kit in a water bottle - though you'll probably have a water bottle regardless.

An orange garbage bag can double as a water barrier and something to attract attention.

A thermometer? Not sure how valuable this is. You'll know if it's cold enough to worry about hypothermia or hot enough to worry about dehydration.

As for me, in addition to the climbing-related stuff, I typically have a knife and a whistle (go ahead, make fun) on my harness, and a headlamp and a lighter in my pocket, when climbing multipitch. Sometimes a space blanket in my back pocket, depending on the situation.

After witnessing a nasty broken ankle this spring, I'm thinking about taking along a stash of vicodin.

Edit to add: I like to have 5 or 10 feet of duct tape wrapped around my lighter too.


(This post was edited by scrapedape on Jul 30, 2009, 4:21 PM)


rockreaver


Jul 30, 2009, 4:32 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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scrapedape wrote:
I think a lighter is much more valuable than matches. For the same amount of weight and space you can get hundreds of lights instead of 20.

I always carry this little coleman torch lighter thingie. The matches are "redundant" backup.

scrapedape wrote:
I'm not sure I see the benefit of fishing tackle, buttons, and thread if you're just trying to survive for a couple of days.

The fishing gear isn't always just for fishing you can use it for survival in a lot of interesting ways. You can make some wonderful snares and such. The button... hmm well I had a button break once and it just pissed me off so now I carry two and yeah... it's personal I suppose. I didn't mention the iodine tablets but I have them. I thought my post was getting long.

scrapedape wrote:
A thermometer? Not sure how valuable this is. You'll know if it's cold enough to worry about hypothermia or hot enough to worry about dehydration.

I have a whistle, pain meds and a few other obscurities I just plain forget. I have tried to maximize useful while saving weight.


ShibbyShane


Jul 30, 2009, 5:59 PM
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Re: [sungam] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
... and (giggle) my pant belt is 1" tubular webbing.

How do you tie/adjust it?


sungam


Jul 30, 2009, 7:24 PM
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Re: [ShibbyShane] What's on your "Oh Sh_t" biner? [In reply to]
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ShibbyShane wrote:
sungam wrote:
... and (giggle) my pant belt is 1" tubular webbing.

How do you tie/adjust it?
Geogoddess had some spare Metolious buckles from her crashpad. I used one of those.


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