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thebadgerrogers
Dec 29, 2009, 10:32 PM
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Hi all,
I live in UK and will be travelling to the US specifically for sport climbing next year (season depends on destination). So where's the best place to visit? I climbing mid-grades up to French 7a.
Ideally I want somewhere that has a cool vibe and plenty to do aside climbing if the going gets wet or hungover!
Any advice gratefully received. I've never been to the States so I'm hoping for a bit of adventure!!
Thanks
Nathan
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shockabuku
Dec 29, 2009, 11:00 PM
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I'd recommend Ten Sleep Canyon in Wyoming but there's not really much else there. The climbing is great though.
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pfwein
Dec 29, 2009, 11:37 PM
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People say Red River Gorge is the only "world class" sport climbing destination in US.
I'm most familiar with Colorado: Rifle, CO is pretty good but at your level you will not be able to get on most of the popular, classic routes, which tend to be harder than 7a. Shelf Road (CO) is also good but I doubt it's considered to be destination quality from a long way a way--otherwise, CO has OK climbing but not really great sport--don't let the huge number of climbers from Boulder fool you.
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rhythm164
Dec 30, 2009, 12:29 AM
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pfwein wrote: People say Red River Gorge is the only "world class" sport climbing destination in US.
those folks have never been to Rumney
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jajen
Dec 30, 2009, 12:39 AM
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rhythm164 wrote: pfwein wrote: People say Red River Gorge is the only "world class" sport climbing destination in US. those folks have never been to Rumney
Yes we have.
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rock_fencer
Dec 30, 2009, 1:26 AM
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or smith rock, though i didn't climb a single sport route when i was there. Oh and i second that Rumney is way better than RRG
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munky
Dec 30, 2009, 2:06 AM
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I hate to say it but most of the great sport climbing areas in the states are on not in what I would call the most exciting areas culturally. With that said, you might want to look at the New River Gorge, Smith Rock, Red River Gorge, Maple Canyon, American Fork, Boulder Canyon, Clear Creek, and Red Rocks. Of the fore mentioned areas Red Rocks is probably your best bet for night life (general debauchery- though I hate to have you think America is really like Vegas) to compensate the climbing. Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek along with the various Denver area crags are not world class (not even close to the best in the US) but between the craggin and the cultural attractions you might be happy there. Also, the Utah crags are a good mix of culture and climbing but again not the best climbing in the states. If climbing is the focus and not seeing Americana, my pics would be the New River Gorge, Red River Gorge, and Smith Rocks for America's best sport climbing areas. the NRG is about 5 hrs from Washington DC, 3.5 hrs from Charlotte and Pittsburgh two other decent cities. If you want to see the best of the best of American climbing you should go to California and see Yosemite Valley, Zion and the rest of the Desert is also awesome. It's a big country man, and impossible to see all of it and its various different styles and vibes in one trip. It would take at least a half a year or more to do that but do your research and you're sure to have fun. HOpefully some of this babble helps.
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zeth01
Dec 30, 2009, 4:58 AM
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southern utah. arizona border
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cracklover
Dec 30, 2009, 5:21 AM
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What time of year?
GO
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dudemanbu
Dec 30, 2009, 5:47 AM
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rhythm164 wrote: pfwein wrote: People say Red River Gorge is the only "world class" sport climbing destination in US. those folks have never been to Rumney
I love Rumney, but the Red totally manhandles it.
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dagibbs
Dec 30, 2009, 6:52 AM
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Does it have to be strictly USA? Because I would say the best sport-climbing destination in North America is probably El Potrero Chico, in Mexico. (Though, it isn't too far from the US border in Texas.)
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thebadgerrogers
Dec 30, 2009, 10:42 AM
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Coolio, thanks to everyone for replying. There are some great suggestions here and some of the place names keep coming up!
So, I'm gonna check out some of the local websites for all of the crags you recommend and make some plans. The only one I've looked up so far is Red River Gorge which looks very good albeit the woodland, rolling hills and sandstone sound very much like home! (Kent, UK) Although Miguel's pizza's sounds good!!
Once I've done some hunting and made some decisions I'll post again. It'd be great to meet up with some locals for the low-down on the best routes.
Thanks again.
Nathan
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dbogardus
Dec 30, 2009, 1:33 PM
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*Hoping this thread turns into Rumney vs RRG.*
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sidepull
Dec 30, 2009, 3:33 PM
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zeth01 wrote: southern utah. arizona border
Yep. if you make St. George your basecamp you have your choice of limestone, sandstone, and volcanic.
Maple canyon is hard to beat in terms of the quality of movement and the sheer amount of routes. Every time I've been there I've run into some international group that decided to stay for a month. Not much to do on rest days so bring a good book and a guitar.
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scottek67
Dec 30, 2009, 4:00 PM
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thebadgerrogers wrote: Hi all, I live in UK and will be travelling to the US specifically for sport climbing next year (season depends on destination). So where's the best place to visit? I climbing mid-grades up to French 7a. Ideally I want somewhere that has a cool vibe and plenty to do aside climbing if the going gets wet or hungover! Any advice gratefully received. I've never been to the States so I'm hoping for a bit of adventure!! Thanks Nathan
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zeth01
Dec 30, 2009, 4:09 PM
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cracklover wrote: What time of year? GO
you can climb in the area year round but getting into arizona might be dfficult this time of year you'll want to ask locals before heading if theres been snow and if theres access to the climbing. it's all unpaved roads once you enter arizona. i just like the area because theres limestone, sandstone, basalt... trad, bouldering and sport all near each other. this is st. george area that 'm talking about.
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pfwein
Dec 30, 2009, 4:33 PM
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scottek67 wrote: thebadgerrogers wrote: Hi all, I live in UK and will be travelling to the US specifically for sport climbing next year (season depends on destination). So where's the best place to visit? I climbing mid-grades up to French 7a. Ideally I want somewhere that has a cool vibe and plenty to do aside climbing if the going gets wet or hungover! Any advice gratefully received. I've never been to the States so I'm hoping for a bit of adventure!! Thanks Nathan Skip it! Head for Canada or go south to Mexico!
Great idea: make sure you take your own advice.
Look forward to NOT seeing you. 
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olderic
Dec 30, 2009, 4:57 PM
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zeth01 wrote: cracklover wrote: What time of year? GO you can climb in the area year round but getting into arizona might be dfficult this time of year you'll want to ask locals before heading if theres been snow and if theres access to the climbing. it's all unpaved roads once you enter arizona. i just like the area because theres limestone, sandstone, basalt... trad, bouldering and sport all near each other. this is st. george area that 'm talking about.
He started out saying "season depends on destination" (read before you respond) - so it sounds like he is flexible. But it is an important qusetion. You probably don't want to focus on any place east of the Mississippi or in the Southwest in the summer. Don't want to be in Wyoming, Colorado or Utah - for sport climbing anywasy - in the winter. So it does depend.
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sspssp
Dec 30, 2009, 8:57 PM
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You might also add how long you are going to be in the states (do you have time for more than one location) and what appeals to you as a "cool vibe".
I don't really care for Las Vegas, but it is a party town and the strip is a rather surreal place.
Utah (Salt Lake City) would not be on my list of party places, but there are a lot of scenic attractions that you aren't going to find in the UK. Especially if you are willing to drive down to the Arches, Canyon Lands National Parks area.
The areas in the eastern part of the US aren't the places I would necessarily recommend to first time visitors to the US (excepting New York), but I'm probably biased living on the west coast. They do have some good sport climbing areas thoughs.
(This post was edited by sspssp on Dec 30, 2009, 9:00 PM)
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marc801
Dec 30, 2009, 9:13 PM
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sidepull wrote: zeth01 wrote: southern utah. arizona border Yep. if you make St. George your basecamp you have your choice of limestone, sandstone, and volcanic. Maple canyon is hard to beat in terms of the quality of movement and the sheer amount of routes. Every time I've been there I've run into some international group that decided to stay for a month. Not much to do on rest days so bring a good book and a guitar.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned Owens River Gorge in Bishop, CA as an option.
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thebadgerrogers
Dec 30, 2009, 9:30 PM
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Fantastic advice, now I really have options!!!
From what you've said and from some Googling earlier today, here's what I've deduced so far...
Rumney; The climbing sounds excellent and the local vicinity sounds, well a bit British! (hope there's no offence in that comment). Red River Gorge sounds like it has similar climbing but the local area is quieter. Bit worried I might feel like it's a bit like home/Central France?
Southern Utah and the area North of Salt Lake City both sound awesome and I figure staying North means Rifle, CO might be an option too?
I'm aiming for a two-week stay so maybe Utah/Colorado has more to offer?
I spent 10 days in Squamish last summer (well, May so it rained a lot) and loved the chilled out feel of the place. If anyone has been to the Howe Sound Inn, you'll know exactly what I mean and if I could recreate that 'feel' I'd be stoaked!
All of your advice has been welcomed and it's really helping me suss out my plans :-)
I have to stay I assumed the US would be filled with countless crags so I'm surprised that a relatively small number of top-locations have come up again and again. It makes me realise that the UK has a huge number of sweet destinations - I'm clearly spoiled!!
Nath
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Gmburns2000
Dec 30, 2009, 9:52 PM
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There are a TON of great destinations in the US, but you limited the options when you specifically asked for sport destinations.
Not that it means anything, just saying.
Have fun when you come over, and if you can, hook up with some folks who have trad gear and you're options will expand quite a bit.
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camhead
Dec 30, 2009, 10:03 PM
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Nath, there are tons of little sport crags throughout the US, but very few are worth touting to someone who is making the trip over here; that's why the same ones are coming up over and over here.
As for my input, it all depends on if you want JUST a climbing destination, or if you are looking for general outdoor or even tourist activities, with some climbing on the side. For the best pure climbing at your level, opportunity to improve, accessible climbers' amenities, and ease of finding partners, etc., I would go ahead and recommend the Red River Gorge.
One area that has not yet been mentioned here (I don't think) is City of Rocks in Idaho. Plenty of crags walking distance from the campground, easy to find partners, beautiful area. It's best in early fall or late spring, and is climbable through the summer. Almost all sport climbs there are slabby, technical, and sometimes sparsely bolted.
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shockabuku
Dec 30, 2009, 10:03 PM
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thebadgerrogers wrote: I have to stay I assumed the US would be filled with countless crags so I'm surprised that a relatively small number of top-locations have come up again and again. It makes me realise that the UK has a huge number of sweet destinations - I'm clearly spoiled!! Nath
I don't follow your logic. How many first class destinations did you expect? There's lots of other places, these are the ones at the top of the list.
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marc801
Dec 30, 2009, 10:19 PM
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camhead wrote: One area that has not yet been mentioned here (I don't think) is City of Rocks in Idaho. Plenty of crags walking distance from the campground, easy to find partners, beautiful area. It's best in early fall or late spring, and is climbable through the summer. Almost all sport climbs there are slabby, technical, and sometimes sparsely bolted.
* While there are pure sport routes, the general ethic there is: if there is a gear placement, there will not be a bolt. There are many fully bolted routes (including a number of excellent 5.7s - 5.10s), but there are also quite a few "sport" routes that demand a couple of cams and a nut or two on the rack to do safely.
* There are no local diversions for rest/weather/hangover days. The nearest town of any significance - Burley - is about an hour away, and Burley is hardly party-central. (The same applies to Maple Canyon in Utah, by the way.)
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marc801
Dec 30, 2009, 10:20 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: There are a TON of great destinations in the US, but you limited the options when you specifically asked for sport destinations.
In reply to: Ideally I want somewhere that has a cool vibe and plenty to do aside climbing if the going gets wet or hungover |
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sycamore
Dec 30, 2009, 10:39 PM
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Any of these areas would be great. But the fact that you are only coming for two weeks means that you could pretty much go to any decent sport crag in the US and have two weeks worth of awesome climbing. The New, the Red, and Smith are all fantasic, undoubtably, but you'll probably climb less than 2% of the climbs at any one of those places. If money and/or time is a concern, I'd recommend a place closer to a major airport (Vegas, SLC, Phoenix), as all three of these places (and City of Rocks) are hours away from non-hub airports.
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Gmburns2000
Dec 30, 2009, 11:12 PM
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camhead wrote: Nath, there are tons of little sport crags throughout the US, but very few are worth touting to someone who is making the trip over here; that's why the same ones are coming up over and over here. As for my input, it all depends on if you want JUST a climbing destination, or if you are looking for general outdoor or even tourist activities, with some climbing on the side. For the best pure climbing at your level, opportunity to improve, accessible climbers' amenities, and ease of finding partners, etc., I would go ahead and recommend the Red River Gorge. One area that has not yet been mentioned here (I don't think) is City of Rocks in Idaho. Plenty of crags walking distance from the campground, easy to find partners, beautiful area. It's best in early fall or late spring, and is climbable through the summer. Almost all sport climbs there are slabby, technical, and sometimes sparsely bolted.
Oh yeah, there's plenty of smaller crags for sure, but I get the sense there are more opportunities for trad than sport (with regards to destinations).
Yeah, destinations are variable according to what you desire. No argument there.
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Gmburns2000
Dec 30, 2009, 11:14 PM
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marc801 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: There are a TON of great destinations in the US, but you limited the options when you specifically asked for sport destinations. Not only that, but the OP further limited options by requesting: In reply to: Ideally I want somewhere that has a cool vibe and plenty to do aside climbing if the going gets wet or hungover
Yeah, but that's all up to the purveyor of said atmosphere. I personally think there's a great atmosphere at camp, but that's just me.
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marc801
Dec 30, 2009, 11:23 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Yeah, but that's all up to the purveyor of said atmosphere. I personally think there's a great atmosphere at camp, but that's just me.
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Gmburns2000
Dec 30, 2009, 11:33 PM
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marc801 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Yeah, but that's all up to the purveyor of said atmosphere. I personally think there's a great atmosphere at camp, but that's just me. Atmosphere, sure (but drum circles are way lame and just plain suck, especially for anyone in earshot), but "plenty to do" other than climbing implies either other outdoor activities or town/city ammenities, especially in the case of bad weather.
Yeah, I've never been a fan of drum circles (or late night guitar solos - just ask anyone who's been with me after 10pm at Camp Slime in the 'Gunks - "Hey dude! I know you're awesome and all and that you can strum that thing with the best of them, but some of us would like to climb tomorrow. Thanks!").
I dunno. I can't think of a climbing area that I've been to where, if it rained, let's say, there wasn't a place to go to do things that are otherwise unplanned. But then again, I'm perfectly happy sitting in a quiet bar and talking shit. 
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marc801
Dec 31, 2009, 12:00 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: I dunno. I can't think of a climbing area that I've been to where, if it rained, let's say, there wasn't a place to go to do things that are otherwise unplanned. But then again, I'm perfectly happy sitting in a quiet bar and talking shit.
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camhead
Dec 31, 2009, 12:11 AM
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marc801 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: I dunno. I can't think of a climbing area that I've been to where, if it rained, let's say, there wasn't a place to go to do things that are otherwise unplanned. But then again, I'm perfectly happy sitting in a quiet bar and talking shit. Uh, City of Rocks. It depends on how far you want to drive. You do realize that the town of Almo (4 miles from the campground) is dry and the nearest beer is 20 miles away in Malta?
What are you talking about?
I got beer in Almo this past fall, and have been able to whenever I've been at CoR in the past 9 years. A new store/restaurant/bar even opened up recently, though I've not checked it out.
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marc801
Dec 31, 2009, 12:18 AM
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camhead wrote: I got beer in Almo this past fall, and have been able to whenever I've been at CoR in the past 9 years. A new store/restaurant/bar even opened up recently, though I've not checked it out.
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minibiter
Dec 31, 2009, 12:32 AM
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Assuming you're looking for single pitch sport climbing with a wide variety of grades (5.7 - 5.14+ projects):
#1: Red River Gorge
#2: New River Gorge
There's enough climbing at both places to last a lifetime. Consider that the Red is made up of many mini-crags, and the New is made up of the New proper with over 1000 routes, then you have the Meadow and Summersville, both with many excellent routes.
The rock at both is sandstone though, so if you're looking for granite or greenstone or something you'll have to go somewhere else. It's not soft sandstone either - pretty rare to have something break in either place.
Cheers
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Gmburns2000
Dec 31, 2009, 3:44 AM
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marc801 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: I dunno. I can't think of a climbing area that I've been to where, if it rained, let's say, there wasn't a place to go to do things that are otherwise unplanned. But then again, I'm perfectly happy sitting in a quiet bar and talking shit. Uh, City of Rocks. It depends on how far you want to drive. You do realize that the town of Almo (4 miles from the campground) is dry and the nearest beer is 20 miles away in Malta?
20 miles doesn't bother me. if it's raining, what else am I going to do? and I imagine all the other climbers will be in the same boat.
but yeah, it's not as nice as walking from the crag to the bar.
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thebadgerrogers
Dec 31, 2009, 9:56 AM
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Sorry, I shoudl have taken into account you'd only be referring to the classic crags here and rightly, I'd only asked for mentions of sport, not trad.
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thebadgerrogers
Dec 31, 2009, 10:04 AM
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Thanks to all of you for your great words of advice. I have some tough decision-making to do and will post the outcome in a few weeks.
I hope to meet up with some friendly's for some climbing beta at the chosen venue!!!
Thanks again, and have a Happy New Year!
Nath
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cracklover
Dec 31, 2009, 8:16 PM
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If you are truly completely flexible with your schedule, then I'd suggest Ten Sleep over the weekend when they do the climbing festival. Definitely world class climbing, a real "western" feel (different from Europe, that's for sure) several bars and restaurants, and a parade.
Oh, and the area is stunningly beautiful.
GO
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kaizen
Dec 31, 2009, 9:07 PM
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Since you're coming from the UK, you may want to consider leaving the forest and hitting up Shelf Rd or Ten Sleep. I haven't been to Ten Sleep, but it sounds great. Shelf Road is moderate central in a high desert environment. New River Gorge and Red River Gorge are wonderful as well, but it won't be a huge change in scenery for you. RRG is juggy overhanging paradise on bombproof sandstone, and NRG tends to be more vertical/technical in nature. Owens River Gorge and Bishop Would be a great change of scenery also.
Really you should have a great trip at any of the places mentioned in this thread. Enjoy. |
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therat
Jan 1, 2010, 5:34 PM
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shockabuku wrote: I'd recommend Ten Sleep Canyon in Wyoming but there's not really much else there. The climbing is great though.
The quality of routes in Ten Sleep is ALL you need.
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jcrew
Jan 1, 2010, 6:31 PM
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since you're not looking for world-class difficulty, i'd say the owens rivers gorge is the place. it's got hot springs, all the other moutain sports, desert, beer..
or maybe skaha, b.c.? it's hot in the summer, but perfect in spring or fall,
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camhead
Jan 1, 2010, 6:35 PM
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Just one more bit of info on the New River Gorge, which has been mentioned several times here. Yes, it is incredibly good. However, no other area that I have climbed at in the US has a higher rate of rainy days. And, unlike the Red River Gorge, which has a lot of caves that always stay dry, the New has relatively few options for rainy day cragging compared to its overall quantity of routes. Unlike sea-breeze-blasted Squamish, it can take a while to dry out as well.
In other words, there is a bigger chance of rain ruining your trip to the New River Gorge than about any other US climbing destination that I know of.
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rhythm164
Jan 1, 2010, 8:29 PM
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jajen wrote: rhythm164 wrote: pfwein wrote: People say Red River Gorge is the only "world class" sport climbing destination in US. those folks have never been to Rumney Yes we have.
then you went to the wrong Rumney.
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sidepull
Jan 1, 2010, 8:55 PM
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marc801 wrote: sidepull wrote: zeth01 wrote: southern utah. arizona border Yep. if you make St. George your basecamp you have your choice of limestone, sandstone, and volcanic. Maple canyon is hard to beat in terms of the quality of movement and the sheer amount of routes. Every time I've been there I've run into some international group that decided to stay for a month. Not much to do on rest days so bring a good book and a guitar. Just to clarify, Maple Canyon is not in southern Utah - it's a good 4 hrs interstate drive to the north from St. George. I'm surprised no one has mentioned Owens River Gorge in Bishop, CA as an option.
Having grown up in Utah, I am well aware that St. George is not a base camp for Maple. I was hoping that separating the two thoughts with a paragraph break would make that clear. I think your clarification refined that point.
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sidepull
Jan 1, 2010, 9:02 PM
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marc801 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: There are a TON of great destinations in the US, but you limited the options when you specifically asked for sport destinations. Not only that, but the OP further limited options by requesting: In reply to: Ideally I want somewhere that has a cool vibe and plenty to do aside climbing if the going gets wet or hungover
Having lived in the UK this past year, the notion that there is a scarcity of world class crags in the US in comparison is ridiculous. Indeed, I think the OP will be blown away by the scale of the crags, both in terms of size and sheer number of routes. I dare say that maple canyon has more routes than the entire Peak District all within a compressed area rather than spread out over a hundred miles.
That said, you'll be missing the "pub walks" - the US does not have a network of trails that link our purveyors of alcohol. Most trails lead to lakes or rocks or other trails. Perhaps you meant something different by cool vibe.
Good luck!
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sspssp
Jan 1, 2010, 11:51 PM
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jcrew wrote: since you're not looking for world-class difficulty, i'd say the owens rivers gorge is the place. it's got hot springs, all the other moutain sports, desert, beer..
Owens does have a lot of good, moderate climbs (especially 5.10~5.11). The gorge itself is not that spectacular but the surounding area is pretty cool.
I'm not sure I would recommend Owens by itself. However, you could include it with a trip through Yosemite. Even if you don't climb, Yosemite is a cool place to check out. And although most of the climbing in Yosemite is trad and although what bolted climbs there are can be runnout, there are plenty of reasonably bolted routes at a moderate grade between the Yosmite valley and Tuolumne meadows to keep somebody busy for a couple of weeks. Always with the option of driving over to Owens.
In much of the country, you get the driest conditions (and sometimes the best temperatures) from late September to early November.
(This post was edited by sspssp on Jan 1, 2010, 11:53 PM)
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sidepull
Jan 2, 2010, 9:22 PM
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sidepull wrote: marc801 wrote: sidepull wrote: zeth01 wrote: southern utah. arizona border Yep. if you make St. George your basecamp you have your choice of limestone, sandstone, and volcanic. Maple canyon is hard to beat in terms of the quality of movement and the sheer amount of routes. Every time I've been there I've run into some international group that decided to stay for a month. Not much to do on rest days so bring a good book and a guitar. Just to clarify, Maple Canyon is not in southern Utah - it's a good 4 hrs interstate drive to the north from St. George. I'm surprised no one has mentioned Owens River Gorge in Bishop, CA as an option. Having grown up in Utah, I am well aware that St. George is not a base camp for Maple. I was hoping that separating the two thoughts with a paragraph break would make that clear. I think your clarification refined that point.
On second thought, don't go anywhere near St. George:
http://news.yahoo.com/...A2NyZXdzY29udGVuZA--
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KidEpic
Oct 24, 2010, 5:09 PM
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So does the New River, Summersville Lake, Ten Sleep Wy, Smith Rocks, Little Cottonwood Canyon Ut. There are so many other GREAT destinations!
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KidEpic
Oct 24, 2010, 5:12 PM
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GO
you can climb in the area year round but getting into arizona might be dfficult this time of year you'll want to ask locals before heading if theres been snow and if theres access to the climbing. it's all unpaved roads once you enter arizona. i just like the area because theres limestone, sandstone, basalt... trad, bouldering and sport all near each other. this is st. george area that 'm talking about.
In reply to: Why would Az be hard to get in to? That doesnt make sense!
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theguy
Oct 24, 2010, 5:31 PM
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munky wrote: the Utah crags are a good mix of culture and climbing
Excuse me, I think I just choked on my 3.2% beer
(This post was edited by theguy on Oct 24, 2010, 5:41 PM)
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theguy
Oct 24, 2010, 5:36 PM
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rhythm164 wrote: jajen wrote: rhythm164 wrote: pfwein wrote: People say Red River Gorge is the only "world class" sport climbing destination in US. those folks have never been to Rumney Yes we have. then you went to the wrong Rumney.
That explains why it was so underwhelming! So where's the right one? Kentucky?
(This post was edited by theguy on Oct 24, 2010, 5:42 PM)
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theguy
Oct 24, 2010, 5:38 PM
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thebadgerrogers wrote: I hope to meet up with some friendly's for some climbing beta at the chosen venue!!!
Either you're planning on using a different source, or you haven't read rc.com 
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innermountain
Oct 24, 2010, 9:04 PM
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It sounds like you're looking for the best areas, not necessarily world-class areas. I'd recommend Owens River Gorge in CA, Cochise Stronghold in AZ, Rifle in Colorado, Ten Sleep in Wyoming. All very worthy areas. Have fun.
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