|
boulderman
Aug 20, 2003, 3:09 PM
Post #1 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2003
Posts: 238
|
I've been climbing for almost 2 months now and I decided to try out bouldering. I was topropping a 5.5 at Coopers Rocks and then 5.7 pretty easy, so I looked at my guide and tried some bouldering on a V5 and it was way harder than the 5.5 and even the 5.7's. Shouldn't I be able to boulder the same by now? I could make some of the moves but they made my fingers hurt :evil:
|
|
|
|
|
bdawg
Aug 20, 2003, 3:11 PM
Post #2 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 31, 2003
Posts: 207
|
This is either a troll, or your extremely retarded
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Aug 20, 2003, 3:13 PM
Post #3 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
Check this: http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/rankingguide.php V5 is WAY HARDER than 5.7 brutha. :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
boulderman
Aug 20, 2003, 3:20 PM
Post #5 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2003
Posts: 238
|
Thanks, I thought all that V meant was that it was bouldering style and you don't use a rope. So V5 =5.5 or V.10+5.10. So, how come there are V14 then and no 5.15? bdawg thanks for the help, just haven't been climbing much yet, and I don't live out west or climb in a gym! So I'm not up on all the "talk". Thats why I came here :roll: besides, I read some kid did a V9 after climbing a few months
|
|
|
|
|
redpoint73
Aug 20, 2003, 3:30 PM
Post #6 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 1717
|
In reply to: So, how come there are V14 then and no 5.15? The comparison chart gives you some correlation between the 2 systems, but its all very subjective. Route climbing is very different from bouldering. Doing short powerful sequences on a 10 foot boulder is very different from climbing a 70 foot route. Thats a big part of the reason that the V scale was invented, to distinguish bouldering from roped climbing. Anyway, there are allegedly a couple 5.15's. But they have not been repeated, therefore are not concensus, and the topic of much debate.
|
|
|
|
|
thrillseeker05
Aug 20, 2003, 3:50 PM
Post #7 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 14, 2002
Posts: 612
|
dude just start bouldering the V0's and work your way up. you'll get to know the system soon enough.
|
|
|
|
|
boulderman
Aug 20, 2003, 4:04 PM
Post #8 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2003
Posts: 238
|
The thing is.... I didn't have to start on 5.0. Istarted on 5.4 and could do even harder at the end of the day. I should be able to do V0 easy?
|
|
|
|
|
craggy
Aug 20, 2003, 4:07 PM
Post #9 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2002
Posts: 112
|
In reply to: The thing is.... I didn't have to start on 5.0. Istarted on 5.4 and could do even harder at the end of the day. I should be able to do V0 easy? V0 is a 5.10 - so start there. Actually, f**k the ratings and just boulder anything - you know your level and you don't have to be influenced by the rating.
|
|
|
|
|
drucasinoble
Aug 20, 2003, 4:35 PM
Post #10 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 18, 2003
Posts: 30
|
Ratings suck. Free yourself from the ratings and climb as hard and often as you can. Also, check-out Chris Sharma's pro athlete profile (Realization).:)
|
|
|
|
|
karmaklimber
Aug 20, 2003, 4:52 PM
Post #11 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 16, 2003
Posts: 363
|
In reply to: V0 is a 5.10 - so start there. Actually, f**k the ratings and just boulder anything - you know your level and you don't have to be influenced by the rating. Well put. I only use ratings as a guideline to keep me within my limits for safety reasons so I don't get fucked over in the middle of a climb. Anyhow, if you really feel an urge to persist with ratings, bouldering ratings and y.d.s. ratings are different. I'd take craggy's advice: start from the bottom and work your way up. Try as many different problems within the same grade to get more of a well-rounded gauge of your ability. Just dont get too caught up in grades because then you start to forget about what climbing is really about.
|
|
|
|
|
boulderman
Aug 20, 2003, 5:19 PM
Post #12 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2003
Posts: 238
|
If climbing boulders isn't about ratings, then what is it about. Ratings on boulders are all about the next hardest rating right? It's not about safety. I say it's all about the ratings. Those of you who say f!@$k the ratings and just have fun must not be able to climb harder than V0! :shock:
|
|
|
|
|
mackavus
Aug 20, 2003, 5:32 PM
Post #13 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 14, 2002
Posts: 322
|
It's all REALLY about whatever YOU want it to be about. Climb and boulder for yourself, if you want to push yourself and always be striving for the next highest rating, then more power to you. If all you care about being outside and just the act of climbing itself, my answer is the same. Do whatever you like, just do it safely. :D
|
|
|
|
|
maria
Aug 20, 2003, 5:34 PM
Post #14 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 21, 2003
Posts: 50
|
what everyone is trying to tell you is that go ahead and try a v2, even know you haven't sent a v0 yet, and don't let ratings intimidate you. Also, ratings are not the most accurate way to access your ability. You might be able to climb some V5's, yet have problems with some V4's. Why? because they are all different, depending on your climbing style and body type, bla bla bla. So, to answer your original question, even if the comparacent chart says that V0 = 5.10, in reality someone who just started climbing, can do it. And don't get rude, after all, look at your original post.
|
|
|
|
|
robmcc
Aug 20, 2003, 5:42 PM
Post #15 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2003
Posts: 2176
|
In reply to: Those of you who say f!@$k the ratings and just have fun must not be able to climb harder than V0! :shock: I can't say much about climbing rating scales, but you're creeping up the newly proposed T scale nicely. Keep reelin'.
|
|
|
|
|
boulderman
Aug 20, 2003, 5:48 PM
Post #16 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2003
Posts: 238
|
The T scale? What is that. I've also noticed all these forign ratings. What is the T scale? Does T stand for Trad. Is there a seperate scale for trad?
|
|
|
|
|
climber49er
Aug 20, 2003, 6:37 PM
Post #17 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 1404
|
Keep working em young'un. You're improving. This thread is a solid T5 for sure. Felt easy to me but I send higher ratings than this one. Yeah, T5
|
|
|
|
|
boulderman
Aug 20, 2003, 6:47 PM
Post #18 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2003
Posts: 238
|
T5? :oops:
|
|
|
|
|
climber49er
Aug 20, 2003, 6:53 PM
Post #19 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 1404
|
Yes T5. You're a little better then you think. But not as good as you hope.
|
|
|
|
|
boulderman
Aug 20, 2003, 6:58 PM
Post #20 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2003
Posts: 238
|
What the F@$!k is a T5 or the T scale? :roll:
|
|
|
|
|
climber49er
Aug 20, 2003, 6:59 PM
Post #21 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 1404
|
:lol:
|
|
|
|
|
norskagent
Aug 20, 2003, 7:00 PM
Post #22 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 9, 2003
Posts: 409
|
reeeel...reeeel...
|
|
|
|
|
jhump
Aug 20, 2003, 7:00 PM
Post #23 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 7, 2002
Posts: 602
|
"T stands for time to leave cash chucker." -Mr. Garrison
|
|
|
|
|
craggy
Aug 20, 2003, 7:09 PM
Post #24 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2002
Posts: 112
|
In reply to: If climbing boulders isn't about ratings, then what is it about. Ratings on boulders are all about the next hardest rating right? It's not about safety. I say it's all about the ratings. Those of you who say f!@$k the ratings and just have fun must not be able to climb harder than V0! :shock: hahahahaha - moron. T9 and rising....
|
|
|
|
|
climber49er
Aug 20, 2003, 7:17 PM
Post #25 of 50
(4836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 1404
|
In reply to: hahahahaha - moron. T9 and rising.... There is no chance on earth this is T9, I could flash it in my flip-flops!
|
|
|
|
|
craggy
Aug 20, 2003, 7:20 PM
Post #26 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2002
Posts: 112
|
In reply to: In reply to: hahahahaha - moron. T9 and rising.... There is no chance on earth this is T9, I could flash it in my flip-flops! fair enough... ;)
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Aug 20, 2003, 7:21 PM
Post #27 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
I'm gonna have to agree on T5, as the followups show that he necer read the grade chart. Been downgraded to a T2 after the followup replies to keep it going. Should have stuck with a winner. :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
cerikpete
Aug 20, 2003, 7:26 PM
Post #28 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 22, 2002
Posts: 4043
|
T4+ :D
|
|
|
|
|
climber49er
Aug 20, 2003, 7:51 PM
Post #29 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 1404
|
Yeah, I guess thats a bit like chipping holds. T2 it is. In the guidebook. T2
|
|
|
|
|
boulderman
Aug 20, 2003, 7:53 PM
Post #30 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2003
Posts: 238
|
T2? :shock: You must be tall :D Besides I have the FAT, (the FA of a T) and the average consensus is T5 :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
mackavus
Aug 20, 2003, 9:05 PM
Post #31 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 14, 2002
Posts: 322
|
After reading all of this I didnt wanna even comment anymore as we are all evil here.... :D But then again, its just too damn good and too easy not too.... I would have to agree with rrrAdam and rate it T2, but its a hard T2.. The landing is really sketchy and your sure to get hurt when you go. I still stand at T2 though. :lol: :lol: :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
climber49er
Aug 20, 2003, 9:11 PM
Post #32 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 1404
|
In reply to: T2? :shock: You must be tall :D Besides I have the FAT, (the FA of a T) and the average consensus is T5 :wink: I claim foul! Invalid ascent! The guy claims in one breath he doesn't have any knowledge of the T scale and then he lays out a well educated, calculated defense of the initial proposed rating!!!! He's just a rating ho'!! You people were right! The T scale can have no integrity with people like this involved! LOX, what can we do here??? LOX!!!
|
|
|
|
|
arkangel
Aug 20, 2003, 9:12 PM
Post #33 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2003
Posts: 45
|
In reply to: T2? :shock: You must be tall :D ??? Uhmm.... yeah
In reply to: Besides I have the FAT, (the FA of a T) and the average consensus is T5 :wink: Someones sandbagging... I wonder if he even knows the T scale? Btw, what did people agree the T scale goes up to? 10 or 14?
|
|
|
|
|
climber49er
Aug 20, 2003, 9:16 PM
Post #34 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 1404
|
T scale is currently topped at 15. There have been no repeats though, it could be downgraded.
|
|
|
|
|
arkangel
Aug 20, 2003, 9:20 PM
Post #35 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2003
Posts: 45
|
T15? Sweeeet mother! Where is this and who is this Sharma of Trolling with the ascent?
|
|
|
|
|
tenn_dawg
Aug 30, 2003, 3:46 AM
Post #36 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2002
Posts: 3045
|
Moved to Bouldering... Travis
|
|
|
|
|
collegekid
Aug 30, 2003, 4:23 AM
Post #37 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2002
Posts: 1852
|
T 6, no more, no less.
|
|
|
|
|
karmaklimber
Aug 30, 2003, 6:05 AM
Post #38 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 16, 2003
Posts: 363
|
In reply to: Those of you who say f!@$k the ratings and just have fun must not be able to climb harder than V0! I can boulder V3s and V4s, thank you very much.
|
|
|
|
|
jedi
Sep 10, 2003, 1:24 AM
Post #39 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2003
Posts: 5
|
V Ratings should only be used as guidelines, just like route beta, and should be taken with a grain of salt. Once you have been bouldering for a short time - you will realize that ratings, even in a single bouldering area - can vary quite drastically to what you might subjectively feel according to your own personal strengths and weaknesses. Thus, you will eventually learn to keep an open mind and attempt many problems based more on whether or not "it looks fun to you". (among many other reasons that do not include ratings.) :P Unfortunately, many people are not capable of being humbled by their ego, but rather, are driven by it and choose to base their personal climbing/bouldering success by the subjective numbers of pure technical grading. Hell, some even choose their friends by it! Yes 'boulderman', there are many of us who tend to boulder problems that are graded much harder than VO who do not need grades to "prove" our successes or make us feel good about ourselves. 8) Hopefully, this truth will make itself clear to you when you are able to overcome your ego long enough to understand.
|
|
|
|
|
xanx
Sep 10, 2003, 2:11 AM
Post #40 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 1002
|
In reply to: If climbing boulders isn't about ratings, then what is it about. Ratings on boulders are all about the next hardest rating right? It's not about safety. I say it's all about the ratings. Those of you who say f!@$k the ratings and just have fun must not be able to climb harder than V0! :shock: ok here is where he shot himself in the foot. Way too obvious it was a troll by this point. T2 at best. Oh and u will all have to ask gawd about what a T15 feels like. to my knowledge he has the only ascent. a little troll trivia: in what thread did this :troll: , the current troll smiley, first appear? (*hint* - it wasn't a smiley back then!)
|
|
|
|
|
sixter
Sep 10, 2003, 4:42 AM
Post #41 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 25, 2003
Posts: 262
|
In reply to: a little troll trivia: in what thread did this :troll: , the current troll smiley, first appear? (*hint* - it wasn't a smiley back then!) The "Is Bouldering Really Rock Climbing?" thread http://www.rockclimbing.com/...&topic_view=&start=0
|
|
|
|
|
deleted
Deleted
Sep 10, 2003, 5:08 AM
Post #42 of 50
(3618 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
i stand by the first response... either you're retarded...or, well, you're retarded...all of you are just plain retarded, so retarded...so very retarded, it's unbelievable how retarded and retarded all you retardedededsa are, it's just so retarded
|
|
|
|
|
climbalon
Sep 10, 2003, 5:15 AM
Post #43 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 101
|
alright, the thread is dead
|
|
|
|
|
herm
Sep 10, 2003, 8:00 PM
Post #44 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2003
Posts: 498
|
Climbs without grades or not written in a proper guide book are not real.
|
|
|
|
|
xanx
Sep 10, 2003, 8:03 PM
Post #45 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 1002
|
In reply to: In reply to: a little troll trivia: in what thread did this :troll: , the current troll smiley, first appear? (*hint* - it wasn't a smiley back then!) The "Is Bouldering Really Rock Climbing?" thread http://www.rockclimbing.com/...&topic_view=&start=0 excellent! ding ding ding!
|
|
|
|
|
mrcrimper
Sep 10, 2003, 8:24 PM
Post #46 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 18, 2003
Posts: 5
|
V5s are way harder than a 5.7 start on a V0- or better yet start climbing stairs
|
|
|
|
|
herm
Sep 10, 2003, 8:42 PM
Post #47 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2003
Posts: 498
|
"I only use ratings as a guideline to keep me within my limits for safety reasons so I don't get schtupp over in the middle of a climb"
|
|
|
|
|
herm
Sep 10, 2003, 8:46 PM
Post #48 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2003
Posts: 498
|
ratings and the objective danger of a climb are two different things. A 5.12 crack you can sew up isn't nearly as dangerous as any blank face of any grade. You are trusting another stranger's opinion when you trust ratings. Guide book author's put that little disclaimer in the front for a reason.
|
|
|
|
|
sixter
Sep 12, 2003, 6:05 AM
Post #49 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 25, 2003
Posts: 262
|
In reply to: excellent! ding ding ding! Ok, what do I win? :roll:
|
|
|
|
|
herm
Sep 12, 2003, 7:39 AM
Post #50 of 50
(3619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2003
Posts: 498
|
you don't 8)
|
|
|
|
|
|