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banjoboy
Feb 9, 2004, 8:31 PM
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I have noticed a quite dissapointing trend in the south over the past two years. People are actually trying to raise grades to area testpieces, and it's not just visiting climbers! Problems such as the orb, Instinct, and burst of joy are being way overgraded. The orb used to be the southern standar for v8, now it has somehow jumped that border and is typically called v9. Instinct went from 8 to 10. burst of joy from 7 to 9. I dont' know why, maybe people are growing soft. This is only the beggining of the list. It seems that now if a problem is kinda tricky it goes at v8 at least. This is dissapointing me greatly. The old-school gradfes are being desecrated. You know that the hardest problem in the south is v10!
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graysondamondamian
Feb 9, 2004, 8:47 PM
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In reply to: You know that the hardest problem in the south is v10!
BS dude, go to lrc and try the dragonlady project or barndoor2000 or the chattanoogan
only the chattanoogan has ever been sent (once by james litz) the other two are insane
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banjoboy
Feb 9, 2004, 8:51 PM
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The hardest problem in the SE thing is a joke, I've done stuff harder than 10 here, but that used to be the typical saying, if it was freakin sick then it was 10, no matter if it was 12 or 13. Secondly the chattanoogan has been sent twice also done by andrew traylor.
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graysondamondamian
Feb 9, 2004, 9:21 PM
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In reply to: Secondly the chattanoogan has been sent twice also done by andrew traylor.
my bad
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cloudbreak
Feb 9, 2004, 9:38 PM
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In reply to: The hardest problem in the SE thing is a joke, I've done stuff harder than 10 here, but that used to be the typical saying, if it was freakin sick then it was 10, no matter if it was 12 or 13. Secondly the chattanoogan has been sent twice also done by andrew traylor.
Why are you so bent on numbers?
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banjoboy
Feb 9, 2004, 9:47 PM
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You know, I don't really mean to be bent on numbers... They're just kinda guidelines. I don't grade problems that I put up, It is just a drag to see the standards dropping... These are the problems that all of the other problems round here are measured by. I'm just super bummed to see them go. Know what I mean? I feel like it's dishonoring the first ascentionists, and on top of that it seems that if I quit climbing now in a few years I'll have climbed way harder than ever before.
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andy_reagan
Feb 10, 2004, 12:49 AM
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rhetorical questions: How did the grades start? Could it be that they were used as guidelines to denote level of difficulty in comparison to other problems? Could it be that a greater multitude of problems have become public thus thickening the problem population, allowing routes to be judged more accurately? Should all "grading" be taken very lightly?
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fontyyy
Feb 11, 2004, 12:50 AM
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In reply to: Should all "grading" be taken very lightly? |
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tenn_dawg
Feb 11, 2004, 1:01 AM
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Banjo,
Who's keeping track of the ratings of boulder problems anyway? The only guide I know of for Rocktown is that drtopo thing, and it leaves aLOT to be desired.
When chris finally put the pen to the paper and made a guidebook for Lilly Boulders, problems were rated at the best guess by those helping him. As soon as the grade is written down, it's just to be used as a guideline anyway.
And of ALL the kinds of grades, bouldering Vgrades are by FAR the most subjective. One man's V8 is another man's V5. Hell, when boulder problems start getting hard, the difference in the pattern of your friggin FINGERPRINT probably has a substancial effect. Heh.
Besides, I'm not as worried about the grommets thinking they're climbing harder than they really are. Flash their project, call it oldskool V5 and leave their jaws on the floor if it helps you feel better. I'm MUCH more conserned about getting sandbagged on a long multipitch trad route than I am about grade creep in boulder problems.
Sandbagging a long route can cause an epic. Grade creep on a boulder problem just helps someone think their pecker is just that much bigger at the end of the day. Who cares?
Travis
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curt
Feb 11, 2004, 1:29 AM
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Grade inflation is certainly not a local phenomenon. Go get on a bunch of the old "Sherman era" V9s at Hueco and compare them to many of the newer V10s and harder rated problems, especially in newer bouldering areas. New problem ratings seem pretty soft to me--not all of them, mind you--but it does seem to be a general trend.
Curt
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captianstatic
Feb 11, 2004, 1:31 AM
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I've noticed that some problems have actually been dropping in grades, most notibly during the HP40 Triple Crown comp where Millipede was downgraded from V7 to V6 and Bumboy V5 was downgraded to a V3/V4. Hammerhead was also downgraded from a V6 to V5. There were several others I can't recall that were downgraded from the Dr. Topo guidebook. Anyway who gives a shit the V system is super subjective. The best climber is the one who has the most fun!
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tenn_dawg
Feb 11, 2004, 2:18 AM
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cap'un,
The grades given on the Triple Crown comp sheets were intentionally downgraded. I think it was to help level the playing field by keeping people from wiring problems they knew would be at the upper end of the division's difficulty.
By the same token, however, at Hound's Ear I was onsighting problems with no beta that were a couple grades above my hardest running beta flash. I think the comp sheets were a little bogus, and by the time HP40 rolled around, I was just climbing the problems that looked good, and collecting my free beer and Tshirt.
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xanx
Feb 11, 2004, 2:58 AM
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um, waht about God Module? only a "V10" now?
i know of 2 SOLID V11 climbers who got pretty much shot down by it.
Paul Robinson (6 V11's, including The Egg in Squamish and Venus in Scorpio, Gunks) came close to the first move.
Nick Bocchicchio (Karajo, Bismark V11, Death Penalty V10) just walked away from it laughing. and if u know anything about him, u DOESN'T get intimidated by ANYTHING.
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jonf
Feb 11, 2004, 9:45 PM
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Xanx, Paul and Nick are definitely strong kids, but I dont think sending a couple V11s constitutes being called a SOLID V11 climber.
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moeman
Feb 11, 2004, 10:29 PM
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Lets take ou cue from John Gill. B1, B2, B3. Thats all you need. So the orb is a sweet B2. They're just guideling, remember.
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curt
Feb 11, 2004, 11:08 PM
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In reply to: Lets take ou cue from John Gill. B1, B2, B3. Thats all you need. So the orb is a sweet B2. They're just guideling, remember.
Works for me!!! :lol:
Curt
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revdeuno
Feb 11, 2004, 11:14 PM
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you should be happy, you'll be climbing harder grades without improving in reality! yeay
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banjoboy
Feb 12, 2004, 9:06 PM
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I'm glad to see people actually responding to this post. The B1 B2 and B3 grades are the way to go for sure! but to play the devil's advocate they will never last. People spray too much in this climbing wolrd and there are websites rating the worlds strongest climbers. While I know that grades are totally bullshit! We can't just run around changing them all willy nilly because we can't do them or flash them. I'm just trying to get some standard deep south guidelines going. I don't care what is v8 anywhere else. Down here the Orb is v8 and that is the standard by which all v8s in this area should be measured. If we up the problems that we measure all problems by then everything getrs easier. You know what screw it let everybody up the grades. I'll quit climbing today and in three years I'll have sent v14!!
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andy_reagan
Feb 12, 2004, 9:50 PM
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in a few years we'll all be grading problems with the help of scientific notation. Why call your favorite problem v10 when you can call it V x 10^21?
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bouldering-bumm
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Mar 6, 2004, 1:35 AM
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I agree that most of the problems in North Carolina are way over rated. Try "Throttle" its the easiest V.5 you'll ever climb
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dynamicpanda
Mar 9, 2004, 2:26 AM
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Throttle may not be a v5, but thats not what you should think about after you do it. You should be more concerned over whether or not it was a good line.
Banjoboy, why does it matter if the ratings in the southeast are getting softer? The problems themselves are not changing at all. The Orb would look like (i've never been to rocktown, but i've seen pictures) a sweet line whether it was v0 or v16. If you our worried that people will get the idea that people will look down on the south because of our ratings, that doesent matter either. We have lots of great rock. Climb it and be happy!
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innominato
Mar 9, 2004, 3:50 AM
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Bring back Gill's system, I agree.
What's funny is remembering, about 15 years ago, Bob Murray chucking huge dynos off of arbitrary little pisser pocket holds on the Streambed Wall in Socorro, New Mexico, in his bare feet.
Ultra-ripped, ultra-strong, ultra-in-his-own-world. If you were to go try to slap V-grades on these things now, or even try to climb them, you'd get taught.
I've yet to see harder-looking moves, anywhere.
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akornylak
Dec 23, 2005, 2:43 AM
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In reply to: The hardest problem in the SE thing is a joke, I've done stuff harder than 10 here,
Like what?
Im not trying to be a dick or anything, Im just curious: of the problems you've done, what exactly you think is harder than 10 here?
Also, just because a bunch of people who havent done the Orb say its 9, doesnt mean thats the consensus. By the time they do it, it'll feel a grade easier to them, as usual.
I think if you are worried about things getting soft, it might be time to step up to the plate and show us something hard. Again, Im not trying to get up in your grill, thats just how the game is played!
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wallmonkey35
Dec 23, 2005, 3:27 AM
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Grades are dumb
STFU and climb!
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cadaverchris
Dec 23, 2005, 3:30 AM
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c'mon now,
i did bum boy at HP40 when it was V5 and now its V3 whats up with that, am i really getting weaker?
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pancaketom
Dec 23, 2005, 3:40 AM
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Gill was too liberal in his grading system. B1, B2, and B3 - way too much room for judgement in that system. By my new T scale, they are all T1. That's right, every boulder problem is T1.
It is possible that the boulder problems have become more or less difficult, especially if they rely on friction. With my new rating system, they won't change grades at all.
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kalcario
Dec 23, 2005, 4:40 AM
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*By my new T scale, they are all T1. That's right, every boulder problem is T1.*
Actually climbers have decided on T1 and T2, Training1 being simulated climbing, and Training2 involving strength tricks that simulated actual climbing.
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amd618
Dec 26, 2005, 6:33 AM
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just a little fyi for ya. be careful how and to whom you use the word wanker to as it is equivalent to f--- in britain.
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jakedatc
Dec 27, 2005, 12:13 AM
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In reply to: Of course it should, bouldering is even worse than normal climbing, so much depends on height, individual strengths, reach etc.,
as opposed to "normal" climbing that is completely equal in every aspect for everyone... :roll:
S2 for the OP.. grade could increase if he names 10's he's sent ;)
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deserteaglle
Jan 3, 2006, 7:48 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: You know that the hardest problem in the south is v10! BS dude, go to lrc and try the dragonlady project or barndoor2000 or the chattanoogan only the chattanoogan has ever been sent (once by james litz) the other two are insane
What is Hueco no longer a part of the South???
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styndall
Jan 3, 2006, 7:56 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: You know that the hardest problem in the south is v10! BS dude, go to lrc and try the dragonlady project or barndoor2000 or the chattanoogan only the chattanoogan has ever been sent (once by james litz) the other two are insane What is Hueco no longer a part of the South???
Any place west of the NM border sure as hell ain't in the south.
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deserteaglle
Jan 3, 2006, 7:59 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: You know that the hardest problem in the south is v10! BS dude, go to lrc and try the dragonlady project or barndoor2000 or the chattanoogan only the chattanoogan has ever been sent (once by james litz) the other two are insane What is Hueco no longer a part of the South??? Any place west of the NM border sure as hell ain't in the south.
You care to explain that to me? It's still in Texas, and last time I checked Texas was in the south.
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dingus
Jan 3, 2006, 8:00 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: What is Hueco no longer a part of the South??? Any place west of the NM border sure as hell ain't in the south.
Um...
eh....
ahem...
Ah...
Oh never mind, I'm sure someone will be kind enough to tell you.
DMT
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styndall
Jan 3, 2006, 8:09 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: What is Hueco no longer a part of the South??? Any place west of the NM border sure as hell ain't in the south. Um... eh.... ahem... Ah... Oh never mind, I'm sure someone will be kind enough to tell you. DMT
I know it's in Texas. I'm not an idiot, and I've spent my share of time in Hueco. It is west of the NM border, though. Take a look at a map sometime. You'll see.
Also, Texas is considered southern by Texans, mostly. Southerners consider Texas to be, well, Texas. Maybe east Texas counts as the southeast.
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musicman1586
Jan 3, 2006, 8:30 PM
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This is an old thread, but honestly, what does it matter? There's no such thing as a standard, it's just a consensus, and even then it doesn't matter. As people have said, the climbs will always be the same (well okay so they might get chipped or worn down). And even then each climb is different for every person. There's no formula for computing bouldering grades or any climbing grades for that matter.
(no. of small crimps)X(no. of featureless slopers)X(square root of the sum of pockets and pinches)/(no. of cracks in line +1) X (no. of smears)=Vn
Find Vn if crimps=5, slopers=4, pockets=2, pinches=3, cracks=0, and smears=7
Hm...maybe I lied...
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deserteaglle
Jan 3, 2006, 10:05 PM
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In reply to: I know it's in Texas. I'm not an idiot, and I've spent my share of time in Hueco. It is west of the NM border, though. Take a look at a map sometime. You'll see. Also, Texas is considered southern by Texans, mostly. Southerners consider Texas to be, well, Texas. Maybe east Texas counts as the southeast.
You're not an idiot? :o :D
Now you are making conflicting statements. If you had of said that the hardest problem in the "southeast" was v10, then I wouldn't have said anything, but now we've gotten into this dialogue and we must find our way out of it.
What exactly is South, if Texas is not "in the South"? It is indeed one of the furthest south states in the country, Hueco being further South than about 85% percent of the other "southern" states, actually prolly more like 90 since the largest portion of any one state further South than Hueco IS Texas.
So if Texas actually being further south than any of the outher "southern" states makes no difference, do you mean participation in the civil war on the side of the Rebels makes a state southern? This is the only other alternative I can think of, but even you have to know that Texas was one of the "southern" states in the rebellion.
I am truly baffled as to how you are going to explain to me that Texas is not a "southern" state.
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dingus
Jan 3, 2006, 10:15 PM
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OK, I get the west Texas thing.
I don't think of Texas as a southern state (even though it is). I don't think of it as Mexican either (even though it was). And I don't think of it as western in the California sense (which it will never be).
I think of Texas as... Texas. Its a singularity.
Cheers
DMT
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the_alpine
Jan 3, 2006, 10:23 PM
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I believe this post is referring to the southEAST - as in east of the Mississippi.
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deserteaglle
Jan 3, 2006, 10:25 PM
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In reply to: OK, I get the west Texas thing. I don't think of Texas as a southern state (even though it is). I don't think of it as Mexican either (even though it was). And I don't think of it as western in the California sense (which it will never be). I think of Texas as... Texas. Its a singularity. Cheers DMT
Of course that makes sense, mostly because you didn't say, "Texas sure as hell is southern".
Which makes me wonder...Dingus, where the hell do you live?
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deserteaglle
Jan 3, 2006, 10:27 PM
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In reply to: I believe this post is referring to the southEAST - as in east of the Mississippi.
He changed the title after getting bashed for it, had you been here earlier, or read the previous posts you would have seen where he said that Texas was not a southern state.
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glyrocks
Jan 3, 2006, 10:39 PM
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Texas is still around? I thought we would have given it back by now.
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the_alpine
Jan 4, 2006, 4:09 AM
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I read the other posts, and while geographically Texas may be a southern state, culturally, it is definitely NOT part of the south. Neither is Florida.
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t-dog
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Jan 4, 2006, 4:56 AM
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Hey look, a hair, let's split it!!! :boring: :boring:
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deserteaglle
Jan 4, 2006, 3:19 PM
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In reply to: I read the other posts, and while geographically Texas may be a southern state, culturally, it is definitely NOT part of the south. Neither is Florida.
I would just like to know where this "info" is coming from...who defines culture and where a state falls into that culture...or doesn't fall into that culture.
I'm not saying we're not different, all I wanna know is why is Texas not considered southern...show me some friggin' references here.
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goob3r
Jan 10, 2006, 5:13 AM
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Someone oughta get together with the American National Standards Institute and settle this predicament once and for all.
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feanor007
Jan 10, 2006, 6:19 AM
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In reply to: Also, Texas is considered southern BY TEXANS, mostly. Southerners consider Texas to be, well, Texas. Maybe east Texas counts as the southeast.
i might be a piss poor climber but i'll go to war with texans who claim to be 'Southern'. I mean what is that lame excuse for a drink you Texans call sweet tea, honestly, i never had worse tea in all my life than the crapp produced by a handfull of Texans i worked with one year. tasted like some one had urinated through some tea bags, added artifical sweetner and then passed it off as tea. Texans are Texans, always have been and always will be. Nobody else wants them and they're at their finest when not trying to be anything other than Texans.
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deserteaglle
Jan 10, 2006, 2:55 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Also, Texas is considered southern BY TEXANS, mostly. Southerners consider Texas to be, well, Texas. Maybe east Texas counts as the southeast. i might be a piss poor climber but i'll go to war with texans who claim to be 'Southern'. I mean what is that lame excuse for a drink you Texans call sweet tea, honestly, i never had worse tea in all my life than the crapp produced by a handfull of Texans i worked with one year. tasted like some one had urinated through some tea bags, added artifical sweetner and then passed it off as tea. Texans are Texans, always have been and always will be. Nobody else wants them and they're at their finest when not trying to be anything other than Texans.
I have no idea what you're saying, but I got the part about war or something...you sure you're NOT a Texan? :lol:
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bizarrodrinker
Jan 19, 2006, 9:23 PM
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[quote="captianstatic"]I've noticed that some problems have actually been dropping in grades, most notibly during the HP40 Triple Crown comp where Millipede was downgraded from V7 to V6 and Bumboy V5 was downgraded to a V3/V4. Hammerhead was also downgraded from a V6 to V5. "
Dude if you know the beta, millipede feels like V0. I think hammerhead was harder than Redneck. Redneck also took me fewer trys by far. Style, has a lot to with it I suppose. By the way, Godmodule goes at V11, not that I would know though. A friend of mine did it in 5 trys though so he might say different. Any way, I agree with captainstatic and anyone else who says F*@$ grades, lets go climbing and have some fun.
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hweight
Jan 21, 2006, 4:05 AM
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Texas is, indeed, southern, but it's not Southern. southern is a geographical position. Southern has to do with a mindset that, while similar to the "Don't Mess with Texas" vibe, still distinguishes itself through subtle linguistic and sociological differences. Unpleasantly, "Southern" states have a decidedly checkered past, and, frankly, I don't know why Texas would want any part of it.
Texas wasn't around when Southern was created. It was still a territory or, at best, a republic.
Thankfully, Southern, in this (climbing) context, has distanced itself from its stigmas come to be associated with joviality, generosity, and the best sandstone in the country (sorry boonies, but y'all are more Appalachian than Southern). It is ridiculous to lump Hueco in with the southeast; different rock, different style, WAY MORE OF IT.
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calii22
Jan 21, 2006, 6:41 AM
Post #50 of 69
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Wow you have a great point. I like it! But for those of you that arent boulderers dont diss anything--go climb your weenie of a 5-8 trad climb. You guys are cutting down bouldering because your jealous to see people getting wickedly strong and not yourself. Bouldering is a new style of your 5-8 life. Were only getting stronger and stronger. The V system rocks everyone likes to see them selves progress. I wouldnt Like a sport if I couldnt see myself progress. Stop Trying to be like your favorite climber and be your self. you have your rateing we have ours I would stop the sh--t talk if I were you. Chill out and climb or should I say boulder. The only thing that could help with the V is if there was a T for Tall M for Medium and S for short after the numbers. No offense to anyone. Im a nice guy and I come off a little rude here but Bouldering and rope so diffrent. Who cares.
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flatstateclimber
Jan 22, 2006, 11:57 PM
Post #51 of 69
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In reply to: I read the other posts, and while geographically Texas may be a southern state, culturally, it is definitely NOT part of the south. Neither is Florida.
Florida is quite southern, though the further south you get, the more northern it gets, with SE Fla. being more like Manhattan with palm trees. In this context, however, Florida doesn't matter because we have no rocks to climb. Excellent buildering though!
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crazyscuba
Jan 23, 2006, 1:33 AM
Post #52 of 69
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wow, you're trying pretty hard to be the same as states like arkansas and mississippi. if thats what you really want then go for it.
steve
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mikej
Feb 10, 2006, 6:58 PM
Post #53 of 69
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Hey Calii, don't get me wrong, because I'd take bouldering any day over other climbing, but don't go stompin on what started this whole thing. I used to think of trad as this scary thing that only dumb people do, until i realized a few things. First, there was only scrambling and free soloing before trad, bouldering didn't really exist. I definitely agree that boulders are more powerful, but traddies could climb laps around us. Ya, most of them will probably never see a 5-10, but they get an experience we cant, hardly even in sport. Check out the lotus flower tower vid on petzl.com, go to site map and you'll find videos, seeing stuff like this makes me want to trad. I'm not even sure who you're responding to, but that's like baggin on Thomas Jefferson because he didn't write with a computer.
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furrymurry
Feb 10, 2006, 8:04 PM
Post #54 of 69
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I just have two things to say:
1. it's bouldering, who cares
2. boulder problems should still be graded on the B-scale: B0 = easy, B1= hard, B2 = ridiculous/unrepeated
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sidepull
Feb 10, 2006, 8:29 PM
Post #55 of 69
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Fake reason that makes him seem part of the climbing ethos:
In reply to: These are the problems that all of the other problems round here are measured by. I'm just super bummed to see them go. Know what I mean? I feel like it's dishonoring the first ascentionists,
Real reason that reveals he's a spraylord:
In reply to: and on top of that it seems that if I quit climbing now in a few years I'll have climbed way harder than ever before. |
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jitterbugclimb
Feb 10, 2006, 8:40 PM
Post #56 of 69
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In reply to: I just have two things to say: 1. it's bouldering, who cares 2. boulder problems should still be graded on the B-scale: B0 = easy, B1= hard, B2 = ridiculous/unrepeated
No offense, but how would that be any less confusing? And I believe the B scale goes to B3 anyway. Take grades with a grain of salt. No one is perfect and it's not easy to assign a number to things like this. The problems that I have graded are open for all to interpret. It wouldn't hurt my feelings if you find an easier sequence or method and recommend a lower grade for one of my problems or vice verse. It doesn't detract from the line, and I think as boulderers that's what we're all after-a great line.
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thorne
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Feb 10, 2006, 8:58 PM
Post #58 of 69
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In reply to: Texas is, indeed, southern, but it's not Southern. southern is a geographical position. Southern has to do with a mindset that, while similar to the "Don't Mess with Texas" vibe, still distinguishes itself through subtle linguistic and sociological differences. Unpleasantly, "Southern" states have a decidedly checkered past, and, frankly, I don't know why Texas would want any part of it. Texas wasn't around when Southern was created. It was still a territory or, at best, a republic.
When exactly was "Southern" created?
Texas joined the United States in 1845 as the 28th state. During the Civil War, Texas seceded from the Union and joined the Confederate States of America.
That said, I think just about everyone thinks of Hueco Tanks as being in the Southwest.
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starkcontrast
Feb 10, 2006, 9:00 PM
Post #59 of 69
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for the record, the orb was origionally a v9 it was downrated to a v6 by andrew trayler.
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mikej
Feb 10, 2006, 9:19 PM
Post #60 of 69
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I think jitterbugclimb has a point. I like the idea of the b scale, that is removing number chasing from our heads at least somewhat, but since there's such a wide range in this scale, i think it poses problems for new boulderers. how would you know what to try? If i were a v1 climber, I'd find this very depressing. "Let me get on this easy problem", they'd say only to find out that its a v5 and aren't likely of getting it anytime soon. Besides, within the v scale it is hard enough to compare one climb to another even of the same rating. There was a 10 pt problem (v0)at the last pbb that nobody i saw could get up including people I've seen send v6 or v7. and to whoever said, "it's bouldering, who cares", I CARE, and for anyone who agrees with that statement, go live in your box.
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wyclimber
Feb 15, 2006, 5:32 AM
Post #61 of 69
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Just wanted to chime in on a few things in this thread.
1. A.korn - Have you ever seen Another Litz Blitz at Lily? I think its graded V12 and quite conservitively I'd say.
2. The Orb is V8, and have you ever seen the video of AT (campusing it in his tenny's with a jay in his mouth) he makes it look like Vb.
3. Paul Robinson is crushing these days everywhere he goes - not just a few V11's anymore. Props son. He should have another go at GM if he hasn't already sent.
4. Expect to find easy problems that stroke your ego and sandbags that crush it five minutes later at every area you go to. Unless you have a personal guide at each area, this is what your in for, don't take it personally.
5. Every problem will be upgraded by one person and downgraded by the next, it is the nature of the game.
6. Texans are retarded, don't ever piss one off though. Ooops.....
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ccox
Mar 9, 2006, 6:27 AM
Post #62 of 69
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Get Bob's balls out of your mouth.
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sidepull
Mar 9, 2006, 7:51 PM
Post #63 of 69
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In reply to: Get Bob's balls out of your mouth.
odd comment given the homonyms related to your screen name.
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jlane
Mar 17, 2006, 8:15 AM
Post #64 of 69
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Registered: Dec 18, 2002
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In reply to: Bring back Gill's system, I agree. What's funny is remembering, about 15 years ago, Bob Murray chucking huge dynos off of arbitrary little pisser pocket holds on the Streambed Wall in Socorro, New Mexico, in his bare feet. Ultra-ripped, ultra-strong, ultra-in-his-own-world. If you were to go try to slap V-grades on these things now, or even try to climb them, you'd get taught. I've yet to see harder-looking moves, anywhere.
best old post made by a weak old man on a piss poor board. yeah, no kids today can campus!! If you had said something about offhands crack or highball friction slab, im with you.
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bizarrodrinker
Mar 29, 2006, 9:48 PM
Post #65 of 69
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In reply to: um, waht about God Module? only a "V10" now? i know of 2 SOLID V11 climbers who got pretty much shot down by it. Paul Robinson (6 V11's, including The Egg in Squamish and Venus in Scorpio, Gunks) came close to the first move. Nick Bocchicchio (Karajo, Bismark V11, Death Penalty V10) just walked away from it laughing. and if u know anything about him, u DOESN'T get intimidated by ANYTHING. |
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bizarrodrinker
Mar 29, 2006, 9:56 PM
Post #66 of 69
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In reply to: um, waht about God Module? only a "V10" now? i know of 2 SOLID V11 climbers who got pretty much shot down by it. Paul Robinson (6 V11's, including The Egg in Squamish and Venus in Scorpio, Gunks) came close to the first move. Nick Bocchicchio (Karajo, Bismark V11, Death Penalty V10) just walked away from it laughing. and if u know anything about him, u DOESN'T get intimidated by ANYTHING.
A friend of mine did it in 5 tries. But then again he is strong as hell. Sent Lucky sharms V-Sharma, and One-Zen V10ish (Flashed the crux, the stuck it 3rd try) in Squamish...among others. Does that that mean it is not V11 I don't know. But to me it says that it can be done, so once I get stronger, I will have a new project.
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eellis
Mar 29, 2006, 11:09 PM
Post #67 of 69
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Registered: Feb 26, 2005
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Does Arkansas count as the South East?
Thought Chris Sharma sent his hardest problem ever there "Wittness the fitness"
But he wisely neglected to grade the thing if I rember correctly.
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bizarrodrinker
Mar 30, 2006, 3:25 AM
Post #68 of 69
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Expect to find easy problems that stroke your ego and sandbags that crush it five minutes later at every area you go to. Unless you have a personal guide at each area, this is what your in for, don't take it personally.
right on.
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bizarrodrinker
Mar 30, 2006, 3:27 AM
Post #69 of 69
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[quote="wyclimber"]Just wanted to chime in on a few things in this thread.
Expect to find easy problems that stroke your ego and sandbags that crush it five minutes later at every area you go to. Unless you have a personal guide at each area, this is what your in for, don't take it personally."
right on.
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