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boulderman
Apr 13, 2004, 8:50 PM
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Boulderers, is there one dream problem that you would like to devote yourself to working on? What are your goals this year and what are your lifetime goals?
I would like to boulder V8 by the end of the year. One problem I would love to do is Midnight Lightning. I have never seen the boulder, (only in photographs). I’m sure this is the one problem that most people would like to get.
One problem that I have worked on and would also love to finish would be Skywalker at HP40. This is the most beautiful line and boulder, (boulder feature) I have ever seen.
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keinangst
Apr 13, 2004, 9:20 PM
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In reply to: What are your goals this year and what are your lifetime goals?
To yell louder, smoke less cigarettes, and to get a part-time job so I can save up for some shirts, mabe even some pants that fit.
No really, probably want to hit the V5 project level, V2 onsight, before it gets too freaking hot. If no luck, I'll just wait til the season starts back in October...
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pdwaugy
Apr 13, 2004, 9:25 PM
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Well I would have to say that my life time goal is to make a climbing video that sells millions of copies. :wink: Ok in all honesty all I would really like to do is a first accent so, that I could give it some crazy name like "all i want is a pink camel" or somthing along thoes lines. I am really just happy to go bouldering and spend time with good friends, but isnt that what we all want our goals to be? Meh maybe its just me.
Waugy
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pyrosis
Apr 14, 2004, 3:20 AM
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For me, Midnight Lightning, of course. It'll be awhile.
Peace
Tavis
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gogo
Apr 14, 2004, 3:31 AM
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Wow, same goal as you man, to get V8 by the end of the summer, specifically Chaos at Big Bend, UT. Hoping to give it a shot next time I'm down there in a few weeks, it's seems to be my kind of problem- powerful. I would also like to raise my onsight grade a bit, hopefully be onsighting V6 by the end of the summer.
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pushsendnorcal
Apr 14, 2004, 3:44 AM
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Top two, I think they are pretty hard stuff
Slow Dance@Happys
Kraken@Mortar Rock
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rock_raptor
Apr 14, 2004, 3:46 AM
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we're supposed to have goals? i thought i bouldered to get away from that?
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karmaklimber
Apr 14, 2004, 3:52 AM
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In reply to: I would like to boulder V8 by the end of the year. One problem I would love to do is Midnight Lightning. I have never seen the boulder, (only in photographs). I’m sure this is the one problem that most people would like to get
I think I'd be a little too chickenshit and overridden with performance anxiety to get on that problem because everyone I know who's spent time in the area and has tried or sent the problem says that anytime anyone jumps on it, you immediately start to gather a huge crowd. The problem is just that famous.
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collegekid
Apr 14, 2004, 4:05 AM
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Well, since bouldering is just practice for real climbing, my goal is to trad lead a route (of any grade) by the end of the summer. :D
Although I truly would like to get some experience leading trad, and more experience leading sport, Bouldering is where my real goals lie.
I thought for a while that it would be so cool to boulder v8 (I guess it's just a pretty number or something) but now, though i've yet to climb v8 or even v7, my goal is to climb v9-v10. This is mostly because Suzy's discharge rejects me from even the first move every time I try it. When I first attempted it, I thought it was a v6 (at least, according to the san diego climbing guide), but then I later found out that it actually requires v9 strength (it is incredibly sandbagged). It also has a v10 sit start. I'd like to get this done by my last year of school (which means i have a little over a year left, unless I get a masters degree, which would give me 2 more years). I figure once i've accomplished this, I'll retire my broken and strained fingers to an easy life of trad climbing. :D
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xanx
Apr 14, 2004, 4:09 AM
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i want to send every good boulder problem at every area i go to this year.
bad or contrived problems need not apply.
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kansasclimber
Apr 14, 2004, 4:10 AM
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Me and a buddy of mine are going to Colorado for the summer to just boulder and climb. I would definetly like to snag V10. Chaos Canyon is where you will find me all summer! It would be nice to get the Kind Traverse V11, maybe bush pilot V11. My main goal is on the Millenium Boulder MOON CHILD V10. Small pockets! Anyways if your out and about around the RMNP area this summer, look for me ill be in a green van, living out of it!
Stephen
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boltdude
Apr 14, 2004, 4:13 AM
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Easy - my bouldering goals are to have fun when I can't find a partner, but when I'm not yet bored enough to grab a huge pack and go replace some bolts.
Haven't been bouldering much lately...
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sandbag
Apr 14, 2004, 4:16 AM
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In reply to: i want to send every good boulder problem at every area i go to this year. bad or contrived problems need not apply.
LOL
dont goto Horsetooth Resevoir, youll leave beat up, bloodied and bummed.
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xscimmiax
Apr 14, 2004, 4:43 AM
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I'm working on Pow Pow, a V7 at the Sad Boulders in Bishop. Hope to have it before summer starts
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offwidthclimber
Apr 14, 2004, 4:57 AM
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drink more
bolder more
not worry about goals and just let shiat flow
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collegekid
Apr 14, 2004, 5:28 AM
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oh yes, add Pow Pow and numerous other quality boulder problems in the
Bishop area to my goal list.
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daigo_leow
Apr 14, 2004, 7:05 AM
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In reply to: offwidthclimber drink more bolder more not worry about goals and just let shiat flow
nice dude... :P
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muni
Apr 14, 2004, 3:56 PM
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Pow Pow is definitely a sweet problem, I would like to see Red Rum go down and someday God Module at HP40, never been on it but have seen pictures V11 i believe....yeah right, but a goal none the less
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dontfall
Apr 14, 2004, 4:02 PM
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stick the sloper move and send Bullet Holes at Haycock
Send the finger crack problem at Emmaus.
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brownbear
Apr 14, 2004, 6:56 PM
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Train Hard
Not give up
Go to the Pheonix Boulder Blast Next April
Have Fun!
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rockfax
Apr 14, 2004, 7:08 PM
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Being an old git...42...my long term goal is to keep bouldering at my limit.
My short term goal is a beautiful overhanging wall of golden and perfect volcanic tuff about 20ft high that is punctuated by distant two finger pockets and sidepulls higher up.
When I get the first ascent of this problem, it's at a "secret" area. I'll let you know.
Mick
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boulderman
Apr 14, 2004, 7:24 PM
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muni,
I looked at God Module last week. I was in HP40 for a week trip. I had actually thought about getting on it. I watched video of Jason Kehl on it the week before and thought to myself that I should give it a go. When I saw it for real I was suprised at how big that first move really was. I just kept walking and thinking.... there are alot of 6's and 7's here to work on first. Maybe next year...... or the year after
I think God Module is a V10
Have you been to HP 40? You have to check out Skywalker
Skywalker V9
http://www.freewebs.com/...005%20copy%20(2).jpg
This face is slightly overhung and it is preceded with at least a 5 move overhung traverse out of a cave!
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fiend
Apr 14, 2004, 7:29 PM
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Squampton:
Wormworld Cave
Baba Hari Das
Golden Boy
Other than those I'd just like to get to more areas like Ibex and Joes, and go back to some of those that I love like Hueco and Bishop.
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madmax
Apr 14, 2004, 7:40 PM
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Center El Murray, Hueco.
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ramylson
Apr 15, 2004, 4:55 PM
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In reply to: muni, I looked at God Module last week. I was in HP40 for a week trip. I had actually thought about getting on it. I watched video of Jason Kehl on it the week before and thought to myself that I should give it a go. When I saw it for real I was suprised at how big that first move really was. I just kept walking and thinking.... there are alot of 6's and 7's here to work on first. Maybe next year...... or the year after I think God Module is a V10
Funny, I was just down there as well (during the Pow-Wow.. which was crazy in itself). But anyway, God Module is amazing. The first time I traveled down to HP40 with a friend that actually can climb V10, he could just pull himself off the ground. Basically unable to throw towards that initial crimp with that terrible foot "chip". Guess he'll have to work on it some more. There's no way I would be able to do something like that. At least, not any time soon. In the most recent guide, they gave God Module V11.
IMO, an even more amazing route would be "Genetic" V11, also at HP40. That thing looks grim..
In reply to: Have you been to HP 40? You have to check out Skywalker This face is slightly overhung and it is preceded with at least a 5 move overhung traverse out of a cave!
Awesome line, and I believe there's a more direct version of the route as well. Start from the bottom of the face, skipping the traverse in from the "cave". If I remember correctly, I believe it goes at V7. Want to try it, but didn't get a chance while we were there. The top out is nuts, but that's just typical for HP40. :wink:
If you want a good video of the route, check out the Pro Sh*t 1 video on Dr.Topo (here's the link: http://www.drtopo.com/movie/hp.html). Actually, any of those videos are great.
Anyway, as far as goals.. not sure as I do a lot of different types of climbing throughout the year. But, bouldering specific, I'd like to send V7/V8 by the end of the year confidently (have V6 currently). And, be able to work into V9 by spring. Guess it just means I have a lot of trips of the south. :lol:
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boulderman
Apr 15, 2004, 5:34 PM
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I think the V7 version of Skywalker used to be in the guidebook as "Skytalker". The first time I was at HP, I didn't have a guidebook, but recognized the boulder when I saw it, (from photos). I just thought it started at the bottom of the face. I worked it from there and made it up to the topout....then it shut me down! I haven’t touched it since. Maybe on my next trip down in the fall I will devote the whole week to it.
What all did you work on while you were there?
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ramylson
Apr 15, 2004, 5:44 PM
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Jeez.. a lot. I was climbing with my girl-friend, so I didn't get on a lot of really hard stuff, but did happen to squeeze some in there. Just a lot of "miles" really.
High-lights of the trip though:
Helicopter [V6] (at Rocktown)
Getcha Some [V6]
Super Coola [V6]
Hammerhead [V5/V6]
Bum Boy [V4]
..and I worked the piss out of Citadel Problem [V6], just didn't have the fingers for it though. Otherwise, just a ton of V1-V3. I believe we ended up climbing 30 problems in roughly two days.
How 'bout you? (although, this probably would be better done through IM)
Good times.. I seriously love that place more and more everytime I get down there. In fact, we're kind of planning something for the second weekend in May. Chances are it's going to be a bit hot, but it would be just a weekend trip.. Anyone else interested? :wink:
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dynoclimber
Apr 15, 2004, 6:47 PM
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to climb better than my friends
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boulderman
Apr 15, 2004, 7:08 PM
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Got Bum Boy, Getcha Some, Lowdown, etc.... Worked on Moon Arete, Great White, and Mortal Combat. I’ve never been on a climb (Mortal Combat) were it is so easy on your body, but yet; so scary. That climb freaked me out! It has to be the 7 ft. pits on both sides riddled with pointy boulders at the bottom. That is a beautiful arete.... wouldn't quite be the same sitting in a grassy field with a soft flat landing though. Wouldn't want to barn door off that! Everyone but me got Millipede :( . Oh well, I'll get on the stretching machine this summer and come back and get it in the fall :lol:
Getcha Some was the best climb for me, it took me a while to get it but I love that style of climbing. To me that is a great all around boulder problem.
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scottglasberg
Apr 20, 2004, 4:56 AM
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My goals are to progress and become the best rock climber (on boulders that is) as a result of training and super hard work. I would love to see fast progression (which Im happy to say I already am). I want to climb the best that I can. -Scott Glasberg 17 yr old
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maika
Apr 25, 2004, 3:44 AM
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My current goal is to do more V4's and maybe a V5 by July/August, which will mark my one-year of climbing. :)
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merock
Apr 25, 2004, 3:50 AM
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double digis
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bucephalus
Apr 25, 2004, 6:31 PM
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V11..
When I started climbing - I set myself the goal of climbing 2 V grades harder each year, starting with climbing a V6 at the end of my first year. In 3 years of climbing I've made my goals, sometimes barely, sometimes not. Sometimes the problems have just suited me, graded much harder than I should have been climbing...
I figure that V12 is a stiff ask, so I'll aim for V11 instead by the end of this year.
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danrauscher
Apr 25, 2004, 6:43 PM
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to have fun climbing with my friends
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shigakazu
Apr 28, 2004, 10:31 PM
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to improve! :?
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jgass
Apr 28, 2004, 11:58 PM
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right now im workin a v12 called the chattanoogan at little rock city in TN. ive done every move but one. totally awesome problem. really crimpy! im pretty sure it will go this winter. if not i would love to do a few 10's and 11's
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