|
jebel_andi
Oct 26, 2004, 6:48 PM
Post #1 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 122
|
I am new to trad climbing and therefore have a starters rack It has been fine for craging but I want to do some more mutli pitch and the only person I climb with doesn't lead and has no gear of their own. So with what I have would you say my rack is big enough for multipitch climbs that the guide book says requires a "standard rack" the area I am thinking about is new hampshire: white horse, cathedral and cannon. If you think my rack is too small them please suggest pieces that are lacking.
I have:
BD stopper : 4-13
BD hexes : 7-10
BD cams : .75,1,2,3
Aliens: green,yellow,red
Tricams: pink and red
Trad draws: 8
Sport draws: 10
P.S. Please don't post just to say you started climbing in the seventies with a handfull of stoppers, three hexes, a hemp rope and 60 foot run outs. We all know you're tough.
|
|
|
|
|
username
Oct 26, 2004, 6:55 PM
Post #2 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 25, 2004
Posts: 4
|
I'm not familiar with New Hampshire, but for many places that is enough gear for a"standard rack." Some will insist that you need 3 times thatmuch gear, complete with a full set of hybrid/offset cams, but you don't. If you want to expand I would start with a couple of micro-cams smaller than you green Alien.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Oct 26, 2004, 6:57 PM
Post #3 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
You might want a few extra biners and a cordalette or two, maybe a couple smaller cams, but other than that, yes, it's enough. Climb on.
You have no really big gear, but as my dawg O-Dub says, "All big gear does is feed big egos." :D
|
|
|
|
|
slavetogravity
Oct 26, 2004, 6:58 PM
Post #4 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 1114
|
Holly-Fn’-Molly. Is your rack too small?? Your rack is fricken huge!!! When I started doing my first multi pitch (Way back in 1997) I had one set of nuts and two cams. You’ve got to learn to make do with what you’ve got and don’t get hung up on the illusion that the gear makes the climber. If anything I’d encourage you to adopt a more minimalist style when climbing and bring only what you need.
|
|
|
|
|
asandh
Oct 26, 2004, 7:00 PM
Post #5 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788
|
:)
|
|
|
|
|
angelaa
Oct 26, 2004, 7:00 PM
Post #6 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 21, 2003
Posts: 598
|
I haven't climbed in NH, but sounds like the perfect rack to me!
I didnt start climbing in the 70's, I was just poor - - I only had set of nuts, hexes and tricams when I started leading . . .
If you're going to lead multi-pitch just make sure you have some high angle rescue course (or at least read a book) under your belt, carry some extra gear for anchors (biners and slings etc) and you should be good to go!
Good Luck and have a BLAST!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
asandh
Oct 26, 2004, 7:12 PM
Post #7 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788
|
:)
|
|
|
|
|
ben87
Oct 26, 2004, 7:19 PM
Post #8 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 26, 2004
Posts: 229
|
very solid rack.
extra biners and a cordellete or two for anchors.
If you want to double up, add
* a few more stoppers in the mid-range (6,7,8, maybe)
* and a few more small and midrange cams (yellow alien, .75 camalot)
just remember that after the first pitch, you'll need enough gear for two bomber anchors as well as the route. Check the guidebook. If you're going to climb from one hanging belay to another, I wouldn't want to have to skimp on gear.
When doubling up, you could also consider getting a similar cam instead of the exact same one -- maybe a TCU instead of an alien... to increase the versatility a bit. there are probably a lot of opinions on this.
also -- they have their downsides, but forged friends are a cheap way to pick up a few extra cams.
that's my two cents.
|
|
|
|
|
euroford
Oct 26, 2004, 7:21 PM
Post #9 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
|
that looks like a pretty solid rack, but i personally carry more gear.
my rack
|
|
|
|
|
shakylegs
Oct 26, 2004, 7:25 PM
Post #10 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 20, 2001
Posts: 4774
|
You’re fine for NH, but I would suggest you buy yourself some slings to replace those sport draws with trad. You might want to double up in the 10-13 range for the stoppers as well, since some of NH cracks sure love them sizes. Also, being BD, you might find that the stoppers will bite into the rock like Dracula on a virgin. Try stoppers of the same size, but made by another company, such as Wild Country (try La Cordée on Ste-Catherine E: they’ll let you compare). Get a webolette or cordelette, as j_ung suggested. But, there’s no need to spend the coin on a #4 Camelot. That’s nearly an extra kilo on your back, and I’ve never found myself on NH rock thinking, “gosh, a #4 would be great right about now.”
You could go for the blue & brown tri-cams, but you can do without for a while, until you get more comfy with gear.
If you’re going to do Cannon, you should know that any climb there is way more involved than at Cathedral.
And, finally, if you're still not sure of your stuff, drop the coin and spend a day with Marc Chauvin (www.chauvinguides.com). You'll walk away much more edumacated.
|
|
|
|
|
davidji
Oct 26, 2004, 7:28 PM
Post #11 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
|
The rack looks good for lots of things.
It's good to keep in mind pitch length, and whether a climb has bolted or gear belays. If gear belays, that's typically an extra 6 pieces per pitch (3 per belay at both ends). And they have to fit.
It may be enough for all the climbs you want to do, gear belays or no, but it's something to keep in mind. While it may be OK to runout a pitch a little when you're climbing on a light rack, it sux to not have enough gear for the belays.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Oct 26, 2004, 7:44 PM
Post #12 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
In reply to: Those in this thread who are saying your rack is plenty big for multi pitch are encouraging you to run in to trouble. Sure your rack is big enough for most single pitch routes.
Nonsense. Your rack is a perfectly good starter rack for multi-pitch routes in New Hampshire. I'd also suggest a cordelette, especially if you'll be doing most of the leading. Also, learn how to build your anchor with the rope, so you won't have to use as many slings.
One important matter, though - slings. You'll probably want to place only two to four of those stiff quickdraws you have, per pitch. Eight quickdraws is way too many for most trad pitches around here, where you'll be placing nuts galore. Buy some shoulder-length runners, and swap most of your biners off the dogbones and onto the runners*. Important note - you'll save yourself a lot of hassle if you color co-ordinate the length of your runners. For example, all of my standard-length runners are red, while the longer ones are blue.
Other things you'll probably want to buy eventually:
A few more cams - just see which ones tend to move off your rack most, or sizes that are missing, and then buy one or two of those.
Another half set of nuts in the small range. In the large range, your tricams in passive mode will work fine to double the nuts.
A brown tricam. Red is too small for some nice tricam placements.
But again, the rack you've got is fine to start with, as long as you know how to use it fairly efficiently.
Have fun!
GO
*If you can find them, get those new thin Mammut Dyneema 8mm draws, otherwise go with the standard Spectra 9/16 inch ones. And pick up maybe one each, one and a half, and double length, ones.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Oct 26, 2004, 7:47 PM
Post #13 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
Since you are new to trad, make sure you work all your kinks out on single pitch, and your beginners rack should be bigger, not smaller. 5 pitches up is not the time to be working out your rope management, wondering if you should have more gear, or worse, totally oblivious to the problems that lie ahead. Spend the time on single pitches to set up belays, and belay your partner from the top. You should not just jump right into a multipitch without a good understanding of what you need and how to use it.
Assuming, you have done that and you do have some experience under your belt, your rack is a decent size and could serve you well provided you know how how to use it. Speaking of Whitehorse, you'd be lucky to put 3 or 4 pieces in on some ptiches.
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Oct 26, 2004, 7:59 PM
Post #14 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
In reply to: Speaking of Whitehorse, you'd be lucky to put 3 or 4 pieces in on some ptiches. Josh
Believe it. Available protection for the top two (full rope length) pitches of Beginner's Route = 1 bolt. Of course the climbing is 5.2, and anyway, most folks skip those last two pitches and escape out right. But the point stands. ;)
GO
|
|
|
|
|
slobmonster
Oct 26, 2004, 8:02 PM
Post #15 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2003
Posts: 1586
|
There are few moderate routes in NH that need more gear than what you already have. Keep in mind that it can be easy to pitch things short, if you find yourself running out of hardware. I second the suggestion to add a brown tricam, and a few cordelette-length slings.
|
|
|
|
|
asandh
Oct 26, 2004, 8:13 PM
Post #16 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788
|
:)
|
|
|
|
|
deleted
Deleted
Oct 26, 2004, 8:15 PM
Post #17 of 48
(6955 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
[quote:c9b688458a]Re: Is my rack to Small?[/quote:c9b688458a]
How would I know? ask your girlfriend.
|
|
|
|
|
jebel_andi
Oct 26, 2004, 8:24 PM
Post #18 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 122
|
Thanks guys, the two people I learnt most of my trad from were guides so I was taught as if I was going to lead for people who have never climbed before so I learnt much in the way of rescue. I have done multi pitch climbs before on and ice and sport where I have lead and I have followed a few trad climb so I know how to do multi pitch stuff. I all ready have a webolette and a cordalette and I have experience with trad anchors. I think I will get dubles of the bd cams and get some more slings for trad draws before I rock on over to cannon (I know there isn't much fixed pro there unlike cathedral and white horse). So it is my understanding that my rack is fine but I should get some dubles of certain things before I do roughts where there are no bolt anchors. So does that sound about right or does any one think I am missing anything?
|
|
|
|
|
glowering
Oct 26, 2004, 8:48 PM
Post #19 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2002
Posts: 386
|
In reply to: In reply to: Re: Is my rack to Small? How would I know? ask your girlfriend.
Huh? How can a guy have a rack, this must be from the girl.
So if you are an A cup I'd say yeah your rack is too small, but don't go bigger than a C or they won't look at all natural.
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
Oct 26, 2004, 9:03 PM
Post #20 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
|
In reply to: P.S. Please don't post just to say you started climbing in the seventies with a handfull of stoppers, three hexes, a hemp rope and 60 foot run outs. We all know you're tough.
Yes, doubles of some things are nice to have. I have never regretted having a double set of BD stoppers, though the advice of maybe having 2 different types is a good idea. Double #.5(or comparable alien) and #2 cams are also really nice (finger and hand sized cracks). From my experience, it is all a delicate balance anyway. When the climbing gets harder, I tend to start zippering stuff up, but that means more gear to carry/have, which means more weight, which means harder to climb. Vicious cycle.......
I guess I would say try easier and well-protected routes at first, and see if your rack has what you need, or do you find yourself searching for that piece that you placed 40 feet back (you will always end up searching at some point, but on a well protected route you can generally comprimise). I never got over to NH, so I am not sure how the climbing is. In the daks, your rack would probably be sufficient for most easier climbs.
One thing I have discovered is, if you are climbing multi-pitch with people who do not have much gear of their own, you can never have too many "extra" carabiners, especially lockers!
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Oct 26, 2004, 9:20 PM
Post #21 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
Its a nice sized rack for moving fast. Not much to it, so you may run into trouble if the climbing gets hard. Two ways to combat this: buy more gear, or don't place gear you don't need to. Sewing up a 5.3 because its waaaay exposed (or above the crux) could do your anchor a disservice. Very rarely will you need a specific piece for an anchor. The resourceful leader can reach a belay with any 3 pieces left and construct an anchor that could support the Queen Mary. Be intelligent about your placements and your rack is perfect. Barring that, get doubles in everything and start working out more. You'll need to be strong to carry that much pro everywhere you go.
|
|
|
|
|
mattm
Oct 26, 2004, 9:21 PM
Post #22 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 640
|
In reply to: I have: BD stopper : 4-13 BD hexes : 7-10 BD cams : .75,1,2,3 Aliens: green,yellow,red Tricams: pink and red Trad draws: 8 Sport draws: 10
Just got back from NH and hit all those places - did a lot of the classics there (Recombeast, Book of Solemnity, Last Unicorn etc etc)
My comments on your rack - ALMOST there.
Add:
A Few more stoppers in the mid range
A Set of DMM peanuts or other micros
Ditch the hexes - great for alpine but not multi-pitch Granite (Flame away on this but I stand by it)
Double your BD Cams starting with .75 and going up (ie, more important to have the .75 before the 3) a 4 is needed for the Beast flake but not for much else.
Double the aliens you have and add one blue. They rocked up there (well, they rock anywhere)
You may need a cordelette but I only used it once - a lot of the anchors were bolted @ Cahterdral Whitehorse
A few more over the shoulder slings (24in) maybe 4?
a few accessory biners for the anchors
Double ropes are HUGE there for getting down fast. A lot of the raps can be done as just one (Down the thin air face if you're willing to do some 3rd class at the bottom) Whitehorse raps are nicer with 2 ropes too
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Oct 26, 2004, 9:49 PM
Post #23 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
In reply to: cracklover wrote: In reply to: Other things you'll probably want to buy eventually: A few more cams - just see which ones tend to move off your rack most, or sizes that are missing, and then buy one or two of those. Another half set of nuts in the small range. In the large range, your tricams in passive mode will work fine to double the nuts. A brown tricam. Red is too small for some nice tricam placements. But again, the rack you've got is fine to start with, as long as you know how to use it fairly efficiently. Well, first you say nonsense to my comment, then you pretty much agree with me by suggesting he add all the stuff above in your comment. You made my point .... and that point is precisely that beginning multi pitch leaders are NOT very efficient, so they are better off carrying too many pieces rather than too few.
What I was disagreeing with was the notion that the rack he currently owns is insufficient for multi-pitch trad climbing on cliffs like Cathedral, Whitehorse, or Cannon. I started lead climbing in the Northeast three years ago with a rack nearly identical to his, except for not having as many draws. I quickly realized that I was short on draws, but aside from that, I was fine. Yes, beginning leaders should place lots of gear, but generally we can place tons of nuts around here. I have been leading for three years without any doubles in cams, and what with the hexes I carry, I have only felt the lack once or twice. This is not Indian Creek!!!
Cheers!
GO
[edited for spelling]
|
|
|
|
|
shakylegs
Oct 26, 2004, 9:56 PM
Post #24 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 20, 2001
Posts: 4774
|
mattm, you've got good suggestions (and some great NE classics under your belt), but I believe the original poster is just starting out with trad.
I doubt, and not offense to jebel, that he'll be hitting the Book or the Beast just yet. He'll probably have figured his rack by the time he's ready to lead them.
|
|
|
|
|
dynoguy
Oct 26, 2004, 10:10 PM
Post #25 of 48
(6962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 6, 2003
Posts: 730
|
Just be happy w/ the way you are. Plastic surgery is costly and dangerous.
|
|
|
|
|
fixednut
Oct 26, 2004, 10:13 PM
Post #26 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2004
Posts: 509
|
In reply to: Just be happy w/ the way you are. Plastic surgery is costly and dangerous.
Well said.
|
|
|
|
|
climberpunk
Oct 26, 2004, 10:21 PM
Post #27 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2003
Posts: 171
|
Well, I started climbing in the seventies with a handfull of stoppers, three hexes, a hemp rope and 60 foot run outs. We all know I'm tough.
but seriously, you're probably fine on the cams, id spend the money on a second full set of nuts, and try to set as many of those as possible. Its lighter, more efficient $$$ wise, and an important skill to learn early. Maybe get a different set of nuts for the second [OP tri-nuts or scallop or offsets or something]
|
|
|
|
|
alberta_climberboy
Oct 26, 2004, 10:36 PM
Post #28 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2004
Posts: 30
|
I would love to have a rack as large as his!
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Oct 26, 2004, 10:37 PM
Post #29 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
If you have a training gear sling, you might need a rack enhancement.
|
|
|
|
|
mattm
Oct 26, 2004, 11:11 PM
Post #30 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 640
|
In reply to: mattm, you've got good suggestions (and some great NE classics under your belt), but I believe the original poster is just starting out with trad. I doubt, and not offense to jebel, that he'll be hitting the Book or the Beast just yet. He'll probably have figured his rack by the time he's ready to lead them.
Doh - you are correct - I think I just read Cathedral, Rack and suggestions and got all giddy. Man that place was AWESOME.
|
|
|
|
|
dirtineye
Oct 26, 2004, 11:14 PM
Post #31 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
|
Wow you got some good advice.
All I would add is, pay the most attention to the people who steted that they have climbed in the ares you will be climbing in. It's hard to argue with a group of folks telling you they have climbed there and needed gear x,y, and z. Guides usually have this area rack thing doen pat.
The recommendations for more slings and longer slings (and possibly losing the sport draws for trad) are good for any area where you have long runouts and wandering routes. Extra slings come in handy and they are light. Having a few extra biners is a good thing too cause you never know when you or your partner will drop one.
A small but good thing to know is, if a route you want to do requires a particular piece of gear and you don't have it, get it. For example, P4 of the OR at Whitesides NC takes a 3.5 friend or a 3 Camelsnot (I'm thinking the number 5 Tri-cam will work there, but nobody seems to have one nor would they want to use it, LOL) to protect the start of the crux. IF you ever get there without one of those, you'll be sorry! Again your guide friends will be all over that stuff, so use their expertise.
|
|
|
|
|
jebel_andi
Oct 27, 2004, 9:14 PM
Post #32 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 122
|
In reply to: If you have a training gear sling, you might need a rack enhancement.
good one :D
|
|
|
|
|
the_pirate
Oct 27, 2004, 9:53 PM
Post #33 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 3984
|
In reply to: I think I will get dubles of the bd cams and get some more slings for trad draws before I rock on over to cannon (I know there isn't much fixed pro there unlike cathedral and white horse).
The rack you describe is not that different from what I would carry in NH (slings excluded). Get a second set of nuts for the finger cracks (cheapest of your gear options btw) and learn to use your hexes properly. That way you won't need to spend money on double sets of cams.
|
|
|
|
|
johnnyrambo9er
Oct 27, 2004, 10:46 PM
Post #34 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 26, 2004
Posts: 2
|
If you run out of pieces (YES)!!!!! Or you could just ask your girlfriend about the size of her previous (climbing) partners!
|
|
|
|
|
fixednut
Oct 27, 2004, 10:49 PM
Post #35 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2004
Posts: 509
|
So, are we or are we not talking about man-boobs here?
|
|
|
|
|
xcmntgeek
Oct 27, 2004, 11:08 PM
Post #36 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 4, 2004
Posts: 73
|
I would recomend posting a picture of your rack so we can make sure you're not lying, you know what happens on the internet. Any other female climber is welcome to participate as well....
|
|
|
|
|
mmckinney
Oct 29, 2004, 5:47 PM
Post #37 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 10, 2004
Posts: 113
|
your rack is always too small!
|
|
|
|
|
dharmacase
Oct 29, 2004, 6:21 PM
Post #38 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 34
|
If you are a beginning leader your rack should definatley suffice on cathedral and whitehorse. the beginners route on whitehorse is mostly bolts albiet a little run out (5.5) You should also check out Funhouse (5.7), toe crack (5.7+), and kiddie crack on cathedral. Stay away from thin air, unless you like the summer traffic jams of north conway, on cathedral.
the tricams will be usefull on white horse as the pockets are sometimes the only things that protect the slabs. If you dont have much anchor building expierence then stick to the climbs that either have double bolt anchors, fixed pins or tree belays. LEARN TO EQUALIZE ANCHORS. it cannot be stressed enough. double up on your nuts as the granite up there has great constrictions. Look out for pin theives. If you go to cannon you will probally do either moby grape or whitney-gilman. both easy but longer routes. You will have to build anchors. Get bd's# .4,.5,.75, 1, 2, 3.
and once again mo' nuts.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Oct 29, 2004, 7:12 PM
Post #39 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
Dharmacase made some excellent route suggestions, but I must disagree with this one suggestion:
In reply to: If you dont have much anchor building expierence then stick to the climbs that either have double bolt anchors, fixed pins or tree belays.
Trees fall over, bolts on trad climbs get chopped, pins fall out, fixed slings get tattered and torn. If you do not feel confident in your ability to create solid gear-based anchors, do not climb multi-pitch trad lines. Seriously, you could wind up in a world of trouble. Or, as dharmacase then said:
In reply to: LEARN TO EQUALIZE ANCHORS. it cannot be stressed enough.
You should be functionally proficient in this skill before you leave the ground on any multipitch trad climb.
GO
P.S. - sorry for the thread drift.
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Oct 29, 2004, 7:29 PM
Post #40 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
Doubles aren't necessary for climbing. I lead single and multipitch with a full set of metolius cams, 5 metolius hexes, and a set of metolius nuts for quite a long time. As I moved to harder cracks with sustained sections that are the same size I needed doubles and rarely triples.
That said, rack size is inversely proportional to two things:
1. Confidence in ability to climb a specific crack
2. Experience
Due to #1, if you find a short easy crack you have more than enough gear to lead it safely (if you know how).
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
trapdoor
Oct 30, 2004, 6:11 AM
Post #41 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 27, 2003
Posts: 183
|
I'd be willing to lead with the gear you have. But you cluld get a second #1 camalot, i feel like i always use that piece.
|
|
|
|
|
esallen
Nov 1, 2004, 12:42 AM
Post #42 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2004
Posts: 304
|
It seems like if you have the money, it's always better to be over-prepared. I started leading with about the same amount of gear as you, but I still purchased a cam or two a month until I felt like I had more than enough gear for most of the routes in my area.
In addition to financial constraints, one should also consider the length and difficulty of the route he or she intends to climb. You can safely do a 10 pitch 5.5 probably with nothing more than a set of chocks. However, if you are pushing your limits while leading a long 5.11 crack system or something, you will want to place gear frequently.
Living in Utah, I'm not at all familiar with the routes in your area, but I know that if you took a trip to Indian Creek, City of Rocks, Little Cottonwood, Wallstreet or someplace like that, your rack would probably be considered inadequate by most people's standard. It sounds like your rack is pretty great for most the routes in your area.
You know the climbs you like to do. You can study up on them in your guidebook and know what routes are safely climbable with the gear you have, and which routes you will have to dig up some more SLCDs for. Creating a "good rack" is a completely subjective matter.
|
|
|
|
|
jaybro
Mar 26, 2005, 10:24 PM
Post #43 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2005
Posts: 441
|
Jeb
as I'm sure you know by now, that rack is a good starting point. Racks vary by areas. You'll have partners, you'll learn what else you need in your area. Mainly just get out there and climb.
I own over a hundred cams, many types in many sizes, yet, when I climb at indian Creek I'm always borrowing.
Jay-started climbing before the seventies,before nuts (imagine 13 yr olds pounding pins on desperate 5.6's) but post hemp (for ropes anyway) but gear is just a tool, use it, don't be it-bro
|
|
|
|
|
lucas_timmer
Mar 26, 2005, 11:11 PM
Post #44 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2004
Posts: 562
|
In reply to: "All big gear does is feed big egos."
"All big gear does is feed big egos." -Jay Young-
|
|
|
|
|
tanner
Mar 27, 2005, 1:37 AM
Post #45 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2002
Posts: 491
|
loose the hexes and the tricams and all the sport draws and you set for most routes
|
|
|
|
|
kpj240789
Mar 27, 2005, 2:03 AM
Post #46 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2005
Posts: 232
|
Are you retarted? How the hell do you edit a smiley face twice.
|
|
|
|
|
lucas_timmer
Mar 27, 2005, 2:10 PM
Post #47 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2004
Posts: 562
|
In reply to: Are you retarted? How the hell do you edit a smiley face twice. |
|
|
|
|
jackhammer
Mar 27, 2005, 2:26 PM
Post #48 of 48
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2004
Posts: 255
|
It is fine.
I lead Trad, and my rack is still smaller than you...in fact, I'm kind of getting a little rack envy. :(
|
|
|
|
|
|
