|
|
|
|
jmeizis
Jul 13, 2006, 5:59 PM
Post #1 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2006
Posts: 635
|
This past weekend I was at a local sport crag and sat down for a bit to watch some other people. A few minutes later some guy asks if I'm getting ready to do the climb I was sitting near and I told him no and then asked what the grade was to which he replied it was 5.12c. I thought that was pretty exciting since I haven't ever seen anyone pull down that hard in person so I got out of there way and perched myself to watch in excited anticipation. He gets on the rock, tries for the first move and falls, then tries again and falls, wipes some chalk off the hold, looks at it, tries again and falls. At this point I would have just moved on to something else but not this gentleman. He proceeds to stick clip the first bolt and use the rope to pull his way up to the first bolt. I thought that was pretty strange but didn't say anything. So he starts trying to do the moves from the first bolt and falls, tries again and falls, tries again but actually makes it to the second bolt to clip but then falls after clipping. He tries a few more times but keeps falling and then proceeds to ask his belayer for the stick clip again and clips the third bolt. About this time I was getting pretty bored watching this as I could do the same thing with my legs tied together. So I went to see some other climbers and my partner stayed to watch. According to my partner he made a move on a huge hueco but that was it and used the stick clip to get all the way to the anchors. I've only been climbing about a year, so maybe I'm missing something. Is there a reason for this? Did he just want to sound cool and say he can climb a .12? Is he just a wuss or is there an actual reason someone would do this? It's not like this is a real big area. It's 40-60 foot climbs to the chains, nothing spectacular to look at from the top. I just don't get it, somebody please explain it to me.
|
|
|
|
|
reg
Jul 13, 2006, 6:35 PM
Post #2 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1560
|
you have 50' cliffs in "the great flat nothingness of iowa"?
|
|
|
|
|
crazygirl
Jul 13, 2006, 6:37 PM
Post #3 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2003
Posts: 595
|
why didn't you just ask him?
|
|
|
|
|
bustloose
Jul 13, 2006, 6:42 PM
Post #4 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 489
|
often, when someone is getting on a route near their limit for the first time, they'll just dog their way up to check out all the moves, and try different sequences, look for good position and good feet. and then come down and try and redpoint on subsequent attemtps. In general though, you should be able to do pretty much all of the moves almost right away, otherwise you don't have much hope of sending in this season.
sounds like this guy got in over his head...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
slablizard
Jul 13, 2006, 6:57 PM
Post #6 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 5558
|
12c is pretty hard, especially in a face route. The guy swas trying the moves and it's not fun to watch the forst times. You have to get the sequences down, find the footholds and maybe that was way over his head.
Once you start you have to finish unless you want to leave the draws there...so he stick clipped his way up the climb.
Working a sport route..is hard work ;)
In reply to: This past weekend I was at a local sport crag and sat down for a bit to watch some other people. A few minutes later some guy asks if I'm getting ready to do the climb I was sitting near and I told him no and then asked what the grade was to which he replied it was 5.12c. I thought that was pretty exciting since I haven't ever seen anyone pull down that hard in person so I got out of there way and perched myself to watch in excited anticipation. He gets on the rock, tries for the first move and falls, then tries again and falls, wipes some chalk off the hold, looks at it, tries again and falls. At this point I would have just moved on to something else but not this gentleman. He proceeds to stick clip the first bolt and use the rope to pull his way up to the first bolt. I thought that was pretty strange but didn't say anything. So he starts trying to do the moves from the first bolt and falls, tries again and falls, tries again but actually makes it to the second bolt to clip but then falls after clipping. He tries a few more times but keeps falling and then proceeds to ask his belayer for the stick clip again and clips the third bolt. About this time I was getting pretty bored watching this as I could do the same thing with my legs tied together. So I went to see some other climbers and my partner stayed to watch. According to my partner he made a move on a huge hueco but that was it and used the stick clip to get all the way to the anchors. I've only been climbing about a year, so maybe I'm missing something. Is there a reason for this? Did he just want to sound cool and say he can climb a .12? Is he just a wuss or is there an actual reason someone would do this? It's not like this is a real big area. It's 40-60 foot climbs to the chains, nothing spectacular to look at from the top. I just don't get it, somebody please explain it to me. |
|
|
|
|
jmeizis
Jul 13, 2006, 7:12 PM
Post #7 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2006
Posts: 635
|
Local is a very fluid concept in the the flat nothingness of Iowa, so really anything that's less than 3 hours away is local. This basically leaves very little, trust me.
I didn't ask him because I thought I might come off as condesceding and didn't want to offend or embarass.
As for working the route. Maybe I'm just a wuss, but I generally don't bother with something if I can't get off the ground. Maybe that's the answer then, he thought if he got past the first moves he could climb it then found he couldn't and didn't want to lose any gear. That or maybe he was setting up a toprope for some reason :?
|
|
|
|
|
slablizard
Jul 13, 2006, 7:37 PM
Post #8 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 5558
|
What feels impossibly hard the first time... feels a lot better after a couple of tries...when you can actually "get off the ground" ;)
Maybe the crux of that route was the start.
In reply to: Local is a very fluid concept in the the flat nothingness of Iowa, so really anything that's less than 3 hours away is local. This basically leaves very little, trust me. I didn't ask him because I thought I might come off as condesceding and didn't want to offend or embarass. As for working the route. Maybe I'm just a wuss, but I generally don't bother with something if I can't get off the ground. Maybe that's the answer then, he thought if he got past the first moves he could climb it then found he couldn't and didn't want to lose any gear. That or maybe he was setting up a toprope for some reason :? |
|
|
|
|
sevrdhed
Jul 13, 2006, 7:54 PM
Post #9 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 5, 2004
Posts: 923
|
He's just a weak tard noob that probably spends all his time posting on RC.com. Or maybe he wanted the pictures of him on some .12c to impress his weak-sending girlfriend. Either way, he's a pansy, and he shouldn't be allowed to climb if he can't float .12c
Steve
|
|
|
|
|
devils_advocate
Jul 13, 2006, 7:55 PM
Post #10 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2006
Posts: 1823
|
In reply to: In general though, you should be able to do pretty much all of the moves almost right away, otherwise you don't have much hope of sending in this season.
I never realized this. I wish someone would have told me I'm suppose to stop trying if I can't do the moves right away.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Jul 13, 2006, 8:05 PM
Post #11 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
The point is to have a good time. If that's what he likes to do, who are we to put him down for it?
|
|
|
|
|
curtis_g
Jul 13, 2006, 8:10 PM
Post #12 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2005
Posts: 594
|
In reply to: In reply to: In general though, you should be able to do pretty much all of the moves almost right away, otherwise you don't have much hope of sending in this season. I never realized this. I wish someone would have told me I'm suppose to stop trying if I can't do the moves right away.
beautiful flame
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jul 13, 2006, 8:14 PM
Post #13 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
In reply to: As for working the route. Maybe I'm just a wuss, but I generally don't bother with something if I can't get off the ground.
Why? What does it matter whether the crux is getting off the ground, half-way up, or just below the chains?
In reply to: Maybe that's the answer then, he thought if he got past the first moves he could climb it then found he couldn't and didn't want to lose any gear. That or maybe he was setting up a toprope for some reason :?
Maybe that's not the answer. Maybe the answer is what at least two other people have already posted. Can't you tell the serious answers from the sarcastic ones?
I've climbed routes that have gone from stick-clip epic to redpoint in 4 tries.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
nthusiastj
Jul 13, 2006, 8:34 PM
Post #14 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2002
Posts: 1994
|
In reply to: I've climbed routes that have gone from stick-clip epic to redpoint in 4 tries.
I've done the same thing. I don't use a stick clip, but I've hung at every bolt the first time up a route when I felt weak. Only to redpoint it in my second or third outing.
The climber may have just had an off day.
|
|
|
|
|
fracture
Jul 13, 2006, 9:59 PM
Post #15 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 1814
|
In reply to: 12c is pretty hard, especially in a face route.
Wrong. Sport climbing begins at 12c.
|
|
|
|
|
slablizard
Jul 13, 2006, 10:09 PM
Post #16 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 5558
|
Dude...welcome back. 8^)
And how many sport climbs ( 12c and up) you did already ?
In reply to: In reply to: 12c is pretty hard, especially in a face route. Wrong. Sport climbing begins at 12c. |
|
|
|
|
phillygoat
Jul 13, 2006, 10:17 PM
Post #17 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428
|
In reply to: Wrong. Sport climbing begins at 12c.
I bet your penis is huge!
|
|
|
|
|
fracture
Jul 13, 2006, 10:24 PM
Post #18 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 1814
|
In reply to: In reply to: Wrong. Sport climbing begins at 12c. I bet your penis is huge!
Hey, I ain't making that shit up.
Read this. As Steve McClure puts it, "Not many people can climb 7b+, but in the world of sport climbing the general consensus seems to be that this is the grade where it all really starts."
|
|
|
|
|
slablizard
Jul 13, 2006, 10:34 PM
Post #19 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 5558
|
Are you Steve McClure?
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Wrong. Sport climbing begins at 12c. I bet your penis is huge! Hey, I ain't making that s--- up. Read this. As Steve McClure puts it, "Not many people can climb 7b+, but in the world of sport climbing the general consensus seems to be that this is the grade where it all really starts." |
|
|
|
|
fracture
Jul 13, 2006, 10:40 PM
Post #20 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 1814
|
In reply to: Are you Steve McClure?
Are you capable of making coherent sense?
And please don't top post.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jul 13, 2006, 11:24 PM
Post #21 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
In reply to: Are you capable of making coherent sense? And please don't top post.
I am please to see that after I am too feeble to sit up in a chair, too arthritic to type, and too blind to read a computer screen (and no, you guys, it's not yet!), there will be somebody here to carry on my duties.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
jmeizis
Jul 13, 2006, 11:30 PM
Post #22 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2006
Posts: 635
|
If sport climbing begins in the .12's then what are all the bolted climbs below that to be called?
Just to clarify (and steer towards the original topic) I'm not putting the guy down, I just don't see how that would be much fun unless you were getting to the top of something significant like a mountain, although I suppose significance is subjective.
Maybe I am wrong and despite the glory of technology emotions are not always obvious over any electronic device. What emotion am I displaying now? I think that if you could only do 3 moves out of 20 the first try then you probably have a lot more work to do and should maybe work on something a little lower in grade because the majority of the route is out of your range. I would think it'd be pretty amazing to go from being able to only do 3 moves on a route to being able to do almost all of them in a day even if you were having a bad day.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jul 13, 2006, 11:33 PM
Post #23 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
In reply to: If sport climbing begins in the .12's then what are all the bolted climbs below that to be called?
Warm-ups.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
devils_advocate
Jul 13, 2006, 11:40 PM
Post #24 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2006
Posts: 1823
|
In reply to: If sport climbing begins in the .12's then what are all the bolted climbs below that to be called?
kindling
Pronunciation: 'kin(d)-li[ng], 'kin-l&n
Function: noun
: a person who repeatedly makes posts on internet forums that are easy fodder for flaming.
|
|
|
|
|
tripperjm
Jul 13, 2006, 11:50 PM
Post #25 of 53
(7105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2002
Posts: 10650
|
In reply to: In reply to: 12c is pretty hard, especially in a face route. Wrong. Sport climbing begins at 12c.
I'm going to have to agree with fracture on this one. McClure's piece was written june 7 '04 and I have known about and agreed with this concept for several years prior to that. "Sport climbing begins at 12c"
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
