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witherbark
Feb 16, 2007, 4:11 AM
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Ok peeps,
I've been climbing for a little over two years now and have quite a bit of experience leading up to .11a trad. I also like sport and bouldering, i'm maybe a little better at those but I love trad. So I have a good number of climbs under my belt know in Eldo lumpy, south platte etc.. and now I find myself wanting a little something more. I want to start soloing.
Now I know the internet isn't the best place to ask, but there are alot of pretty exeperinced climbers out there on this site and I was wondering what people's opinions, ideas, or general advice on the topic are. I'm thinking of starting with calypso in Eldo, i've done it alot and it feels solid! Any advice before I get started?!
Ok Adios,
Paul Lednerg
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nightlion
Feb 16, 2007, 4:15 AM
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1) Life insurance
2) leave your rack to me in your will.
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creemore
Feb 16, 2007, 4:29 AM
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Simply remember that it's supose to be fun. When that stops, quit it...or whatever you wanna do cause you seem to be already convinced...enjoy!
You know there a bunch of other stuff I could say....but I won't cause if your gonna do this you should already know.
I like your signature
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kixx
Feb 16, 2007, 12:30 PM
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Make sure you call as much attention to your "solos" as you can.
Wait, you mean people will be there to see you soloing?
Wait, there will be cameras?
You're all set then.
, as long as you don't die for a love of the sport and being one with the rock while you have an audience that's fine.
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granite_grrl
Feb 16, 2007, 1:01 PM
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As with any portion of climbing you have to asess how much doing this climb is worth vs the danger of it. If you are not going to screw up the lives of others with a fall (people that are close to you, and esp people that rely on you, like childern), and you are will to take responsability of the out come if you screw up (death) then I'm not going to tell you not to do it.
If you are not comfortable that a mistake will probobly be fatal or if you have a 2 year old waiting for you at home then you shouldn't do it.
If you choose to solo make sure it is a very concious decision.
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uasunflower
Feb 16, 2007, 1:15 PM
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you can do alpine, you can try ice climbing or do aid on a big wall - lots of options out there apart from soloing. As GrGrl said, assess your willingness to do it vs. the risks and have good reasons to go solo - doing it from boredom or just to try smth new seems not exactly sufficient a reason to me...
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lodi5onu
Feb 16, 2007, 2:05 PM
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It's so beyond me why you would seek the opinions of others on this matter. If you want to start soloing, just do it. Are you looking for reassurance? Acceptance? Recomendations of nice climbs to solo? Climbing is about manipulating yourself to overcome a natural obstacle. Soloing is the most pure form of that and if you need/seek others opinions then maybe you should consider why you're doing it. Pure intentions don't require acceptance.
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Dillbag
Feb 16, 2007, 2:17 PM
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What lodi said!
And to emphasise soloing is not about everyone else... it is an intense personal decision... As such I would say, ignore whatever we're all saying and make your own choices!
On another note (not to be a jerk) but...
witherbark wrote: I've been climbing for a little over two years now and have quite a bit of experience leading
Two years is not going to get you "quite a bit of experience" it's going to get you some... Come back in 4 or 5 years, then you can say "quite a bit"...
Climb safe! And be careful, and remember it's not about what we all think about you, it's about you and your own demons!
(This post was edited by Dillbag on Feb 16, 2007, 2:18 PM)
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witherbark
Feb 16, 2007, 4:21 PM
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Ok Ok,
All decent advice so far, i guess I am looking for advice from some people more experienced as well but interesting throughts.
A couple points though, i've been c;limbing more than two years two an a half actually and i'm in school right now (gotta love the girls at cu) so I have had plenty of time to get out and do it! I climb all the time, eldo (love the place), Boulder canyon, the spot when it's too cold etc... i've redpointed up to .11a trad and a little while back I onshigted a .10c grandmothers challenge, i don't think i'll have a problem soling 5.6. My girlfriend doesn't have a problem with it so I think i'll just go for it.
Anyway some nice thoughts guys, any more experienced climbers got some good stories? Near misses things like that? I would love to hear some good ones.
i'm outtie
Paul
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zeke_sf
Feb 16, 2007, 4:48 PM
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Here's a link that has more thoughts:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=1309414#1309414
Anyway, there's a great "trip report" that has an interesting soloing story with plenty of reaction to it. There are plenty of free solo artists out there. A modicum of effort would yield some stories. My only advice is to make sure you don't fall!
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hummm
Feb 16, 2007, 5:28 PM
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Here is another one, very recent. Good to read up. Soloing is a big decision and shouldn't be taken lightly. Good luck and have fun.  Accidents can even happen to the best, read about Wolfgang Güllich.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1520374#1520374
(This post was edited by hummm on Feb 16, 2007, 6:12 PM)
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jdouble
Feb 16, 2007, 5:44 PM
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hummm wrote: Soloing is a big decision and should be taken lightly. Good luck and have fun.
Typo of the day?
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bandycoot
Feb 16, 2007, 5:50 PM
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witherbark wrote: All decent advice so far, i guess I am looking for advice from some people more experienced as well but interesting throughts. A couple points though, i've been c;limbing more than two years two an a half actually and i'm in school right now (gotta love the girls at cu) so I have had plenty of time to get out and do it! I climb all the time, eldo (love the place), Boulder canyon, the spot when it's too cold etc... i've redpointed up to .11a trad and a little while back I onshigted a .10c grandmothers challenge, i don't think i'll have a problem soling 5.6. My girlfriend doesn't have a problem with it so I think i'll just go for it. Anyway some nice thoughts guys, any more experienced climbers got some good stories? Near misses things like that? I would love to hear some good ones. i'm outtie Paul
I consider myself somewhat experienced and here's my opinion/advice:
You're an idiot. You want attention and validation. You're going around asking other people if you should solo, ranging from your gf to the internet so that people will think you're more badass. Then you're making statements like "I don't think I'll have a problem soloing 5.6" (not a direct quote since I spelled it properly). If there's the slightest chance in hell in your mind that you could fall, you shouldn't do it.
Did you read the two stories posted above? Those are "good stories" and "near misses." If you haven't, read them. Read them again. It isn't a trivial thing to be decided upon by other people's opinion. You can die, you can get maimed. If you fail on a solo it can (and probaby will) have lasting psychological effects on others that either see it, help rescue/clean up, or know/love you.
I'd wish you good luck if you decide to solo, but you shouldn't need it. Luck shouldn't be an issue. There should be no question in your mind as to your ability to complete the route. It's definitely a unique aspect of the sport that is very controversial.
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deschamps1000
Feb 16, 2007, 6:00 PM
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If you choose to solo, that's your decision.
Please do so in an isolated setting far from us other climbers. I do not want to see a solo climber fall or have any responsibility in the rescue.
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therelic
Feb 16, 2007, 6:05 PM
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So you want to free solo? Read the posts on this link: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=808957;search_string=dwight%20bishop;#808957
I can guarantee you Mr. Bishop was a far better climber than you are. Many others have met a similar fate while free soloing. Of course many times a free soloist doesn't fall. I personally have free soloed up to 10b and here I am typing away. Obviously I didn't fall.
Remember if you fall screamers are not cool and swear words are not what you want to arrive at the Pearly Gates with. Just be cool and have something profound to say or simply fall in silence. Also don't forget to take that one last look around it's the last thing you will ever see so enjoy it.
Bill
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price1869
Feb 16, 2007, 6:18 PM
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lodi5onu wrote: Soloing is the most pure form
While your advice is sound, I'd like to know why "soloing is the most pure form."
What makes it so pure? Is playing music by banging rocks together the most pure form of music because it's archaic and there's no manufacturing involved? Is there any benefit to soloing?
to the OP: Are you just soloing because you can't find a partner and you'd rather not face this cold harsh world alone anymore? Dying closes access. Soloing typically results in close calls or death. Don't do it.
Price
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wonderwoman
Feb 16, 2007, 6:33 PM
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stolen from the 'I won't Fall' thread for:
dingus wrote: Someone said something about a broken hold? http://www.supertopo.com/...html?topic_id=182107 From a link in the above URL: Before his last climb:  Climb begins:  Half-way up   Right before the fall:  Last moment of life:  Body carried away:   I think its good to look this beast right in the eye. Holds DO break. Even for the super good eye-leet climbers. DMT
(This post was edited by wonderwoman on Feb 16, 2007, 6:37 PM)
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granite_grrl
Feb 16, 2007, 6:38 PM
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Got those old embeded images to work for you.
wonderwoman wrote: Shamelessly stolen from the 'I won't Fall' thread: dingus wrote: Someone said something about a broken hold? http://www.supertopo.com/...html?topic_id=182107 From a link in the above URL: Before his last climb: Climb begins: Half-way up Right before the fall: Last moment of life: Body carried away: I think its good to look this beast right in the eye. Holds DO break. Even for the super good eye-leet climbers. DMT
Scary stuff.
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moose_droppings
Feb 16, 2007, 6:49 PM
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The fact that you have to come out with a public forum announcement that you want to solo tells me your doing it for all the wrong reasons, attention being the main one.
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climbsomething
Feb 16, 2007, 6:51 PM
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Ok, the_leech... come out and call it...
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witherbark
Feb 16, 2007, 7:16 PM
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Ok climbsomething,
out of respect for the deceased in the above photos i'll save him the trouble. Anyone ever read beowulf?
-laters
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grampacharlie
Feb 16, 2007, 8:04 PM
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I have soloed, and I will probably do it again. I will never encourage anyone else to do it, and can find numerous reasons not too. Your GF is one.
That being said, if you choose to, here are some tips:
-Unless you're onsighting 5.Freaking hard, never solo something you've never climbed.
-don't solo something you've not climbed in more than one season.
-do not solo around other climbers. Even if you ask whether they mind or not, it puts them in a shitty place if you fall, get stuck, whatever. Plus, it may make them uneasy just seeing you do it and can ruin their day right there.
-Always tell someone where you'll be, and do not stray. that way, they'll kow where to find the body and won't have to expend too much energy on the search.
-Don't ask opinions on the matter. You're either not going to like the answers, or are searching for attention you don't need.
Lastly, and most importantly...
-if you doubt, go home. Making it home for dinner if infinately more important than any thrill you can imagine.
this may sound a little preachy, but you asked for it.
As for stories, I have one. A student goes up to his hometown crag for a weekend and decides to free solo some routs he has done a thousand times. On his first pitch, he is stung by a wasp, falls, and hits two ledges. He spends the nest 8-10 hours crawling back up to his sleeping bag, bloody, broken and alone. The next day passes with not a single person for miles. On moday morning, a college class with his roommate and other friends head up to the area he fell at for a day of instructional climbing.
They found him alive, but just barely. the rest of the entire day and part of the evening, the poor unsuspecting students from this rockclimbing class carried our soloist through three miles or so of desert to get him the help he needed.
And they all lived ever-after.
Inspirational huh?
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wonderwoman
Feb 16, 2007, 8:31 PM
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grampacharlie wrote: -do not solo around other climbers. Even if you ask whether they mind or not, it puts them in a shitty place if you fall, get stuck, whatever. Plus, it may make them uneasy just seeing you do it and can ruin their day right there.
I second that request. I was soaking in the sun one day at one of the local crags and opened my eyes when I heard someone approaching. Some nice smiling climber walked by. He said Hi, I said Hi. He starts bouldering around and I close my eyes again.
About 10 - 15 minutes I heard heavy breathing. I opened my eyes to see this guy 20ft off the ground, struggling with an overhang with a very unforgiving landing. I thought, "God, please not here - not now." I had to close my eyes, but I wanted to scream. When I opened my eyes again, he had managed to downclimb to a ledge.
I didn't see him again that day, but kept my ear open for a loud thud. It kept me on edge for the rest of the day.
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artm
Feb 16, 2007, 8:52 PM
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wonderwoman wrote: grampacharlie wrote: -do not solo around other climbers. Even if you ask whether they mind or not, it puts them in a shitty place if you fall, get stuck, whatever. Plus, it may make them uneasy just seeing you do it and can ruin their day right there. I second that request. I was soaking in the sun one day at one of the local crags and opened my eyes when I heard someone approaching. Some nice smiling climber walked by. He said Hi, I said Hi. He starts bouldering around and I close my eyes again. About 10 - 15 minutes I heard heavy breathing. I opened my eyes to see this guy 20ft off the ground, struggling with an overhang with a very unforgiving landing. I thought, "God, please not here - not now." I had to close my eyes, but I wanted to scream. When I opened my eyes again, he had managed to downclimb to a ledge. I didn't see him again that day, but kept my ear open for a loud thud. It kept me on edge for the rest of the day.
I was also on scene a few moments after a soloist fell off of a route in J-tree. My friend a medical student witnessed the fall and responded. Many many people were scarred that day.
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