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kalcario
Aug 8, 2004, 4:35 AM
Post #2 of 36
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
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3 pitches...hmmm
either Nabisco Wall in Yos or
Don Juan Wall in tha Needles (actually 4, but with 60m ropes...)
ain't they run you outta Bishop yet?
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bvb
Aug 8, 2004, 4:41 AM
Post #3 of 36
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Registered: Mar 3, 2003
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gotta go with joe on this one. nab wall, hands down. perfect rock, perfect climbing, loads of history. full value.
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kalcario
Aug 8, 2004, 5:37 AM
Post #4 of 36
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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they call Waverly Wafer (1st pitch of Nab Wall) 11a now
that must mean Butterballs (2nd pitch) is 12a...a-haha
anybody here done either Nabisco or Don Juan?
I KNOW nobody's done both, so I won't ask...
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gambler
Aug 8, 2004, 6:34 AM
Post #5 of 36
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 85
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1. Wunch's Dihedral...South Platte area of Colorado
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=2273
2. Nabisco Wall...Yosemite
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=2261
3. Lightning Bolt Cracks...North Sixshooter Peak,near Indian Creek,Utah
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=7748
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gambler
Aug 8, 2004, 6:47 AM
Post #6 of 36
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Posts: 85
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In reply to: they call Waverly Wafer (1st pitch of Nab Wall) 11a now
who is "they"....did "they"scrape thier knees on the one off-width move...poor babies,gimme a break that's no 5.11!
Back in the day,we used to do Waverly Wafer on hexes and stoppers only ....and we liked it. 5.10c seemed about right then and it still does!
just ranting....gotta go get another beer
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bandycoot
Aug 8, 2004, 9:54 AM
Post #7 of 36
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
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I haven't done any of the routes listed above, but I just got on The Vampire recently. That was a pretty high quality climb.
These pictures don't do it justice.
http://weber.ucsd.edu/...hquitz/vampire1.html
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pt
Aug 8, 2004, 1:07 PM
Post #8 of 36
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 400
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Days of Heaven 5.10d in RMNP
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darth_gaydar
Aug 8, 2004, 1:13 PM
Post #9 of 36
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Registered: Jun 5, 2004
Posts: 168
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McCarthy North, Devils Tower
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jsj42
Aug 8, 2004, 3:16 PM
Post #10 of 36
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Registered: Dec 24, 2002
Posts: 374
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Here's another vote for:
Days of Heaven (10d), RMNP
Lightning Bolt Cracks (11a), Indian Creek
Wunsch's Dihedral (11), South Platte
I would venture to add:
North Face of Castleton (11a), Castle Valley
Infrared (12a), Moab (three crack pitches followed by a pitch of face climbing)
Just about any classic 3 Pitch Devil's Tower climb
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rudyj2
Aug 8, 2004, 3:31 PM
Post #11 of 36
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Registered: Apr 9, 2004
Posts: 10
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My vote is for the Headache .10a in Zion.
I have not done any of the other routes mentioned here, but the Head ache is a stellar splitter hand crack for 3 pithces.
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kalcario
Aug 8, 2004, 3:52 PM
Post #12 of 36
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
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*What pitches link on Don Juan? It doesn't seem practical.*
It's been done in 2 200' pitches, so I guess you don't pro the first 80" (5.9)
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herm
Aug 8, 2004, 5:09 PM
Post #13 of 36
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Registered: Aug 26, 2003
Posts: 498
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Heheh, well I have done BOTH Baddaddy and the Nabisco Wall, and I gotta say, it ain't the Cookie for nothin'! The Nabisco Wall is a choice, highly civilized, exquisite feature.
However, if your taste is toward wilder game, something not so sweet as the Cookie, then I gotta say that Baddaddy is an awesome sleeper of a route that has spanked everyone to set eyes on it so far. It is as long and steep and thin as the NW, but in no way resembles it. It has a lying disposition and a tendency toward abuse. Ain't th' Baddaddy fer nothin'!
I would rate it among the very best three pitch cracks in the Eastern Sierra. http://home.earthlink.net/~herm40/id7.html
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herm
Aug 8, 2004, 5:13 PM
Post #14 of 36
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Registered: Aug 26, 2003
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:wink: Bishop is so quiet without ya, Mick. No one to complain about...
-hope we get a chance t' have a few SNPA sometime :D
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poorboy
Aug 8, 2004, 6:57 PM
Post #15 of 36
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Registered: Jan 19, 2002
Posts: 65
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Fine Jade 5.11a on the Rectory?
http://rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=37552
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dewiman
Aug 8, 2004, 6:59 PM
Post #16 of 36
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Registered: Sep 4, 2002
Posts: 26
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LLC, Utah - Boomerang
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=7314ng
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brodie
Aug 9, 2004, 2:57 AM
Post #17 of 36
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Registered: Aug 9, 2004
Posts: 3
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hotline at granite mountain, az, or pert near anything at the gunks (does that place count?) hi to zav an' fissy!
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rossgoddard
Aug 9, 2004, 5:20 AM
Post #18 of 36
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Registered: Dec 18, 2003
Posts: 181
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Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff. IMHO its the best handcrack in the NE, and Cannon is a stellar spot.
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studs
Aug 9, 2004, 9:39 AM
Post #19 of 36
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Registered: Nov 10, 2003
Posts: 103
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Crack of Fear
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atg200
Aug 9, 2004, 1:26 PM
Post #20 of 36
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317
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Center Route on Cynical Pinnacle in the South Platte, 3 pitches of 5.9 handcracks.
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rockfax
Aug 9, 2004, 1:29 PM
Post #21 of 36
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Registered: Oct 26, 2001
Posts: 652
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I'm missing Bishop very much Herm.
In fact the proofs of the Eastern Sierra guide I'm working on keep getting wet with tears.
I'll be in touch.
Mick
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scottcody
Aug 9, 2004, 3:02 PM
Post #23 of 36
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Registered: May 27, 2003
Posts: 577
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I was just about to post this...
The Line is with out a doubt THE BEST 3 PITCH CRACK CLIMB in the us.
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vivalargo
Aug 9, 2004, 5:14 PM
Post #24 of 36
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 1512
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The Vampire and Nabisco Wall are two very different climbs, but both are some kind of wonderful. Gripper, on Arch Rock, is likewise a true gem. Same goes for the Wunch dihedral, Open Book, Catchy Corner, and La Escuela.
But what's this business about Waverly Wafer being 5.11? For shame . . .
It was mid 5.10 in the early 70s, when you couldn't even protect the last 15 feet of the lyback.
Oh, yeah, don't forget the rarely repeated Dihardral, on Slap Happy Pinnacle. An all time classic.
JL
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jliebgott
Aug 9, 2004, 8:53 PM
Post #25 of 36
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Registered: May 22, 2003
Posts: 59
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In reply to: In reply to: The Line one of the best 5.9s.[/quote] I was just about to post this... The Line is with out a doubt [b][u]THE BEST 3 PITCH CRACK CLIMB[/u][/b] in the us.[/quote] ... it's a good route, but not even really a crack climb as a mixed crack and face. You can get by without even knowing how to climb crack because there's dikes every 4 feet. Waverly is still 5.10c unless something fell off. [b]Absolutely great 3 pitch crack climbs:[/b] Serenity Crack - Yosemite New Dimensions (link 2 & 3) - Yosemite Igor Unchained -> Airy Interlude (linking) - Needles Fancy Free -> Needles Phobos or Diemos -> Tuolumne
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