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natas
Nov 10, 2004, 5:39 PM
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What are your opinions on comfortizing holds.
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robmcc
Nov 10, 2004, 5:43 PM
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Bad. Don't do it.
And you misspelled "chipping".
Rob
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taualum23
Nov 10, 2004, 5:45 PM
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In reply to: Bad. Don't do it. And you misspelled "chipping". Rob
Damn straight!
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caughtinside
Nov 10, 2004, 5:47 PM
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Sometimes necessary. I don't really expect granite climbers to understand, but there are some sharp rocks out there.
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rockprodigy
Nov 10, 2004, 5:48 PM
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I don't think I'd take advice on this topic from easterners.
My opinion, is that it's a necessary evil, however, chisels, drill bits, and motorized drills are not appropriate tools to be using. Furthermore, some rock types require it, some do not. If you decide to do it, you should be able to back it up based on the texture of the rock, the ethics of the local area and previous precedent.
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killclimbz
Nov 10, 2004, 5:49 PM
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Especially on some of the super sharp Wyoming Limestone.
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taualum23
Nov 10, 2004, 5:56 PM
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Now, I am an easterner, and agreed with the first reply, but I also would like to point out that it also DEFINITELY depends on whether you are gunning for an FA, or are on an established route.
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themeanieokc
Nov 10, 2004, 5:57 PM
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Your kidding, right? This really is a practice? That is lame.
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caughtinside
Nov 10, 2004, 6:04 PM
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In reply to: Now, I am an easterner, and agreed with the first reply, but I also would like to point out that it also DEFINITELY depends on whether you are gunning for an FA, or are on an established route.
Well, then you're saying that chipping is ok on an FA? :P
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taualum23
Nov 10, 2004, 6:13 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Now, I am an easterner, and agreed with the first reply, but I also would like to point out that it also DEFINITELY depends on whether you are gunning for an FA, or are on an established route. Well, then you're saying that chipping is ok on an FA? :P
I'm doing no such thing, just adding that while I am the an eastern climber, of the variety that should not speak on this topic according to one poster, it is, in my view of the world based on my experiences to date, MORE wrong to chip (or comfortize, whatever) on an established route.
Oh, and to the moral absolutists that are going to say something about the 'more wrong' comment....punching people is bad, toruring them for fun...more bad.
Josh
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shank
Nov 10, 2004, 6:16 PM
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"Build your skill instead of improving the holds"
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mbg
Nov 10, 2004, 6:16 PM
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In reply to: Bad. Don't do it. And you misspelled "chipping". Rob
What Rob said.
comfortizing=enhancing=manufacturing
If you can't do a route in its natural form, leave it be for anthother day, climber, lifetime.
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natas
Nov 10, 2004, 6:19 PM
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I agree with rockprodigy. some times it needs to be done. Most all the routes at the wild iris have been comfortized. Who wants to climb on razors.
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caughtinside
Nov 10, 2004, 6:20 PM
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In reply to: "Build your skill instead of improving the holds"
Tell me what skills will prevent my tips getting ripped by razor sharp rock.
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shank
Nov 10, 2004, 6:25 PM
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I have found lots of holds that cut, rip, shred finger tips, but have found none yet that were unbearable after closer examination and a bit of fondleing. Once you figure out how to place your hand on them just right they all work fine the way they are.
And if they aren't then don't climb it. "Comfortizing" holds is no different than chipping on out where there were none before.
If you can't use it you can't use it.
Maybe you should take up aid climbing?
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naw
Nov 10, 2004, 6:30 PM
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I personally like to bring plastic holds with me and bolt them directly into the rock over the holds that hurt my tender fingers. It's awesome when you bolt a bucket right onto the crux of a 5.14.
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michaelmay513
Nov 10, 2004, 6:31 PM
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I admit it, I've done it on routes I've put up or boulder problems I've established. If and when I comfortize a hold, It is only with a file, I will smooth down sharp spots. Because nobody likes to have their skin torn off. Just don't make it so blatant that someone can tell its been comfortized from a hundred feet away.
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caughtinside
Nov 10, 2004, 6:36 PM
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In reply to: I have found lots of holds that cut, rip, shred finger tips, but have found none yet that were unbearable after closer examination and a bit of fondleing. Once you figure out how to place your hand on them just right they all work fine the way they are. And if they aren't then don't climb it. "Comfortizing" holds is no different than chipping on out where there were none before. If you can't use it you can't use it. Maybe you should take up aid climbing?
I disagree. There is a difference between chipping and rounding off sharp edges and points. And I probably can use it, but it will puncture my skin and leave me unable to climb.
Hmm, I'm still to young and strong to take up aid climbing. Besides, nailing is chipping! :P
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photon
Nov 10, 2004, 6:56 PM
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deja spew
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therealdeal
Nov 10, 2004, 7:21 PM
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here we go again...
it would be interesting to know how many of these "purists" have ever put up a sport route? I'm guessing...umm...none.
you all climb on comfortized holds, you are just to ignorant to know it....
you can lip service all you want, but basically your opinion is for shit unless you are putting up routes.
once again, nothing like RC.Com for a bunch of pontificating noobs.
later.
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mbg
Nov 10, 2004, 7:33 PM
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In reply to: I agree with rockprodigy. some times it needs to be done. Most all the routes at the wild iris have been comfortized. Who wants to climb on razors.
Wild Iris has a pretty good rep as being chipped to hell too. :wink:
In reply to: here we go again... it would be interesting to know how many of these "purists" have ever put up a sport route? I'm guessing...umm...none. you all climb on comfortized holds, you are just to ignorant to know it.... you can lip service all you want, but basically your opinion is for s--- unless you are putting up routes. once again, nothing like RC.Com for a bunch of pontificating noobs. later.
*laughing*
I've put up several routes, trad and sport, and never once felt the need to enhance a hold so I could pull on it harder. If you can't use a hold the way it is don't be a noob and file or chip it.
Signed,
a pontificating noob :)
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jcr
Nov 10, 2004, 7:40 PM
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This is like saying on a marathon race you are going to take a short cut!!!!!!
If you dont have or cant achieve the abilities needed to climb a certain route, so be it and go and find another one or another sport. Dont be a lazy a$$ and a crybaby, and get to working out the necesary abilities.
geeez, this pisses me off.
Dont do it or......
:evil: I'LL KIK UR A$$ES :evil:
JC
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andy_reagan
Nov 10, 2004, 7:45 PM
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There are those of us who are sick and demented enough to enjoy crimps the have the possibility of slicing our fingers open.
Leave the file at home. Try not to be so lame in the future.
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asandh
Nov 10, 2004, 7:50 PM
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:shock:
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brad84
Nov 10, 2004, 7:56 PM
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chip 'n die
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