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Kartessa
Sep 27, 2011, 4:19 PM
Post #31301 of 45342
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erisspirit wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gotta make a visa run into Buffalo tomorrow. Yay for a 3-hour trip to the border [raised eyebrow emoticon] Visa denied  No soup for you! what do you need the visa for? To go to Yosemite this weekend Really? You need a visa to travel to the US now? Like Bryan, I thought you could come and go as you pleased. When did that change? I'm akshully a français and your country doesn't appreciate our good cooking and loose morals I'm hungry now
You shoulda eaten that pt
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erisspirit
Sep 27, 2011, 4:37 PM
Post #31302 of 45342
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Kartessa wrote: erisspirit wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gotta make a visa run into Buffalo tomorrow. Yay for a 3-hour trip to the border [raised eyebrow emoticon] Visa denied No soup for you! what do you need the visa for? To go to Yosemite this weekend Really? You need a visa to travel to the US now? Like Bryan, I thought you could come and go as you pleased. When did that change? I'm akshully a français and your country doesn't appreciate our good cooking and loose morals I'm hungry now You shoulda eaten that pt
PT needs more butter
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macherry
Sep 27, 2011, 4:42 PM
Post #31303 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gotta make a visa run into Buffalo tomorrow. Yay for a 3-hour trip to the border [raised eyebrow emoticon] Visa denied No soup for you! what do you need the visa for? To go to Yosemite this weekend Really? You need a visa to travel to the US now? Like Bryan, I thought you could come and go as you pleased. When did that change? I'm akshully a français and your country doesn't appreciate our good cooking and loose morals ok, in all seriousness, are you a canadian citizen or a french citizen? both kind of matter to me because I'm now wondering if there are reciprocity laws for going to the EU or Canada when there weren't any just a few years ago. If I need to get a visa to go to Spain next year then now is a good time to learn about it.
yeah, explain, why would you need a visa.
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Kartessa
Sep 27, 2011, 5:02 PM
Post #31304 of 45342
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macherry wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gotta make a visa run into Buffalo tomorrow. Yay for a 3-hour trip to the border [raised eyebrow emoticon] Visa denied No soup for you! what do you need the visa for? To go to Yosemite this weekend Really? You need a visa to travel to the US now? Like Bryan, I thought you could come and go as you pleased. When did that change? I'm akshully a français and your country doesn't appreciate our good cooking and loose morals ok, in all seriousness, are you a canadian citizen or a french citizen? both kind of matter to me because I'm now wondering if there are reciprocity laws for going to the EU or Canada when there weren't any just a few years ago. If I need to get a visa to go to Spain next year then now is a good time to learn about it. yeah, explain, why would you need a visa.
If I was flying, it wouldn't be an issue, you just do the usual immigration thing when you get to the states.
Because I'm crossing by land and flying out of Buffalo, I need to do the immigration thing which can take up to 5 hours. Had I gotten a 3-mont visa, I could just bypass the stupidly long waiting bullshit and just drive right through the border.
But Noooooo, I need to go through immigration again on Thursday.
Don't worry Greg, it's not something you need to apply for ahead of time with the EU, you just show up and they stamp your passport.
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donald949
Sep 27, 2011, 5:34 PM
Post #31305 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different. Notice where the climber is actually taking the rope to clip vs. where the climber should take the rope.  not a great visual, but you can get the idea of what he did wrong by watching very closely. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZ2xyX40H4A he grabs the belayor's end of the rope, not his end, or, in other words, the rope that is below the previous clip that he has already clipped in to, and then he clips with that end of the rope the next clip. When he climbs up, you can see it very easily. He starts to z-clip at around the 40 second mark. I didn't watch the video after he fixed it. The way to fix it? unclip the lower of the two biners (i.e. - leave your top clip in and take out the one below it).
But the pic makes it clear. The bolts would have to be pretty close together. I suppose if the crux was right above a ledge, you would put them that close. Or a giant overhang right off the ground. I'll check out the video later at home.
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donald949
Sep 27, 2011, 5:36 PM
Post #31306 of 45342
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notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Well, my man Michel took a bunch of gnar inverting clip-blowing whips into a slab start today. Somehow all he has is a sore elbow and a kinda ouchey hip. The man is like a fucking lepricon or something, SO lucky. He hit a ledge one time and just kinda glanced off it (making him invert) and another inverting fall he took (rope behind heel) he narrowly missed the ledge while upsidedown. what the hell? Okay, I was kinda tired last night so here's the full rundown, because it was fucking HILARIOUS. So here is the crag: http://scottishclimbs.com/...h_Berwick_Law_Quarry M had only lead in the gym, and I guess that was last term. I thought he knew about z-clips and back clips and all that fun stuff. So first all 4 of us lead the (wild iris) 5+ warm-up thing, it was pretty easy, then me and M went over and did law and disorder, a 6a+. I OS'ed it and M flashed it on TR in GREAT form, since he had topped out at 6a+ last term, this was a plus (he has good technique but he was weak as all hell and over the summer he did a bunch of pull-ups on a bar and repeaters on a door frame). Then he wanted to lead a different 6a+, so he jumped on Darkness Falling, which he did very smoothly, though he got a tiny bit off route halfway up, but he noticed and got back on route. After that he decided he wanted to lead a 6b, and old lawbreaker was right there so he jumped on it. This is when I realised he wasn't totally clear on back clips, z clips, and keep your heel out from behind the rope... So he climbs up no problems till he tries to z-clip the second bolt, I explain what's going on and he face palms. He makes some awesome moves with his magical polish technique, then he was in a position you could just tell was out of balance and just barely on. He clips the draw. Then he back-clips it, and falls off. Of course since he is about level with it there was no death unclipping of deemz to be had. I told him it was back clipped, but he was way to sketched to unclip it, cuz he was kinda far above the bolt below and the route kinda went slab-bulge-slab and he was right on the lip of the next slab, so he would kinda splat onto the slab below. There was also a big ledge halfway up the buldge that he might hit. Anyways, I tell him to just clip a draw above the first one and clip that one normally. so he clips the draw, and grabs both so he can pull some slack and clip the top one. He back clips that one, too. So I shout up that he should unclip the second one and clip it right. He screws around and is having trouble unclipping the top one, and somehow BOTH draws come unclipped and he has a gallon of slack in his hands. I saw him start to unclip the second draw and I was just about to shout "don't unclip that!" when his foot popped and he took the ride. So he starts falling, there is a LOT of fucking slack out, so I start running backwards and try to yard some slack through the grigri. All this really does is cause me to elbow Joe really hard and almost fall over cuz he was standing right behind me. So I didn't get much slack in. M hit the ledge with his right foot after around 5 feet of falling, and inverted. then he fell another 15+ feet upsidedown, straight into the slab. In my head the distances are further, but I'm not sure if that is memory growth, so I'ma go with conservitive guesses. Some people from the other group at the crag started to run over to see if he was okay when he started laughing really loud. He was like "whoah, what the fuck happened? hahahaha!" we talked about it and laughed a lot, then some dumbass from the other group tried to lecture us on helmets (he was belaying his son on TR from a single bolt and doing all kidas of other stupid shit). So then I decided I wanted to try to OS a 7a+, and I fell all over it. In fact I got so flamed out I couldn't finish it. I got to the last bolt but couldn't make the sloper moves to the chains (oh for a stick clip!). So we left the rope hanging and M said he wanted to finish of the 6b he whipped on. So he jumps back on it and whips at the same place, but without the slack. A pretty casual fall. He jumps back on gets a little higher and tries to clip from there. He pulls through a little slack to clip and his foot pops. Having clearer a path behind me I take a couple steps back, not wanting him to hit the slab again (cuz I was pretty sure his lucky-o-meter was nearing empty). But he didn't fall, he kinda barn doored way out and flagged deeply to stop it (that magic natural technique). It was actually pretty cool, except his leg was way the fuck behind the rope. So he moved around a little, got his feet straight, and tried to go even higher, but he fell - right when I was going to tell him to get his foot out from behind the rope. So he flipped and was kinda half sideways as he glanced off the ledge again, hurting his elbow, and he smacked into the slab upside down again. Again he was fine except his hip hurt a little. So he did the 5+ and cleaned the draws from that. There were a few more small whips in there somewhere, but I can't really remember them. Anyways, I thought it was fracking hilarious when he fell the first time. How did his foot pop only once he had BOTh draws unclipped and a fuck ton of slack?? bwahahahah! Wow crazy day dude. Glad to hear everyone is more or less fine. But on question arises. What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different. edit speilink  OMG, YGD nOOb!
Hangs head in shame.
turns in belay card.
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erisspirit
Sep 27, 2011, 5:40 PM
Post #31307 of 45342
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donald949 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different. Notice where the climber is actually taking the rope to clip vs. where the climber should take the rope. [image]http://www.indoorclimbing.com/images/quickdrawZclip.gif[/image] not a great visual, but you can get the idea of what he did wrong by watching very closely. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZ2xyX40H4A he grabs the belayor's end of the rope, not his end, or, in other words, the rope that is below the previous clip that he has already clipped in to, and then he clips with that end of the rope the next clip. When he climbs up, you can see it very easily. He starts to z-clip at around the 40 second mark. I didn't watch the video after he fixed it. The way to fix it? unclip the lower of the two biners (i.e. - leave your top clip in and take out the one below it). When I read Sun's post, I was going to say how the heck do you do that???? But the pic makes it clear. The bolts would have to be pretty close together. I suppose if the crux was right above a ledge, you would put them that close. Or a giant overhang right off the ground. I'll check out the video later at home.
The gym I used to go to had bolting so close together that this could be fairly easy to do if you weren't paying attention
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donald949
Sep 27, 2011, 5:43 PM
Post #31308 of 45342
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Registered: May 24, 2007
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erisspirit wrote: donald949 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different. Notice where the climber is actually taking the rope to clip vs. where the climber should take the rope. [image]http://www.indoorclimbing.com/images/quickdrawZclip.gif[/image] not a great visual, but you can get the idea of what he did wrong by watching very closely. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZ2xyX40H4A he grabs the belayor's end of the rope, not his end, or, in other words, the rope that is below the previous clip that he has already clipped in to, and then he clips with that end of the rope the next clip. When he climbs up, you can see it very easily. He starts to z-clip at around the 40 second mark. I didn't watch the video after he fixed it. The way to fix it? unclip the lower of the two biners (i.e. - leave your top clip in and take out the one below it). When I read Sun's post, I was going to say how the heck do you do that???? But the pic makes it clear. The bolts would have to be pretty close together. I suppose if the crux was right above a ledge, you would put them that close. Or a giant overhang right off the ground. I'll check out the video later at home. The gym I used to go to had bolting so close together that this could be fairly easy to do if you weren't paying attention
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donald949
Sep 27, 2011, 5:46 PM
Post #31309 of 45342
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notapplicable wrote: Admittedly, did I just make that number up. Anybody know what the going rate for fake marriages is though?
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notapplicable
Sep 27, 2011, 8:48 PM
Post #31310 of 45342
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Kartessa wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gotta make a visa run into Buffalo tomorrow. Yay for a 3-hour trip to the border [raised eyebrow emoticon] Visa denied No soup for you! what do you need the visa for? To go to Yosemite this weekend Really? You need a visa to travel to the US now? Like Bryan, I thought you could come and go as you pleased. When did that change? I'm akshully a français and your country doesn't appreciate our good cooking and loose morals I wonder if this raises Bryan's price
Good cooking is a bonus but if those loose morals result in another kid popping out while over here it certainly will.
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notapplicable
Sep 27, 2011, 8:54 PM
Post #31311 of 45342
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erisspirit wrote: notapplicable wrote: Listening to The Brothers Karamazov on audiobook at work and I'm loving it. Never new Dostoevsky could write with such humor. Irony, yes, but no genuine levity. I find myself laughing quite a bit. It's been awhile since I read that one, but I remember liking it
The dialogue between characters seems a bit, I don't know, hysterical at times I suppose but the theological/philosophical musings are certainly interesting. I like it so far.
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notapplicable
Sep 27, 2011, 8:56 PM
Post #31312 of 45342
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donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Well, my man Michel took a bunch of gnar inverting clip-blowing whips into a slab start today. Somehow all he has is a sore elbow and a kinda ouchey hip. The man is like a fucking lepricon or something, SO lucky. He hit a ledge one time and just kinda glanced off it (making him invert) and another inverting fall he took (rope behind heel) he narrowly missed the ledge while upsidedown. what the hell? Okay, I was kinda tired last night so here's the full rundown, because it was fucking HILARIOUS. So here is the crag: http://scottishclimbs.com/...h_Berwick_Law_Quarry M had only lead in the gym, and I guess that was last term. I thought he knew about z-clips and back clips and all that fun stuff. So first all 4 of us lead the (wild iris) 5+ warm-up thing, it was pretty easy, then me and M went over and did law and disorder, a 6a+. I OS'ed it and M flashed it on TR in GREAT form, since he had topped out at 6a+ last term, this was a plus (he has good technique but he was weak as all hell and over the summer he did a bunch of pull-ups on a bar and repeaters on a door frame). Then he wanted to lead a different 6a+, so he jumped on Darkness Falling, which he did very smoothly, though he got a tiny bit off route halfway up, but he noticed and got back on route. After that he decided he wanted to lead a 6b, and old lawbreaker was right there so he jumped on it. This is when I realised he wasn't totally clear on back clips, z clips, and keep your heel out from behind the rope... So he climbs up no problems till he tries to z-clip the second bolt, I explain what's going on and he face palms. He makes some awesome moves with his magical polish technique, then he was in a position you could just tell was out of balance and just barely on. He clips the draw. Then he back-clips it, and falls off. Of course since he is about level with it there was no death unclipping of deemz to be had. I told him it was back clipped, but he was way to sketched to unclip it, cuz he was kinda far above the bolt below and the route kinda went slab-bulge-slab and he was right on the lip of the next slab, so he would kinda splat onto the slab below. There was also a big ledge halfway up the buldge that he might hit. Anyways, I tell him to just clip a draw above the first one and clip that one normally. so he clips the draw, and grabs both so he can pull some slack and clip the top one. He back clips that one, too. So I shout up that he should unclip the second one and clip it right. He screws around and is having trouble unclipping the top one, and somehow BOTH draws come unclipped and he has a gallon of slack in his hands. I saw him start to unclip the second draw and I was just about to shout "don't unclip that!" when his foot popped and he took the ride. So he starts falling, there is a LOT of fucking slack out, so I start running backwards and try to yard some slack through the grigri. All this really does is cause me to elbow Joe really hard and almost fall over cuz he was standing right behind me. So I didn't get much slack in. M hit the ledge with his right foot after around 5 feet of falling, and inverted. then he fell another 15+ feet upsidedown, straight into the slab. In my head the distances are further, but I'm not sure if that is memory growth, so I'ma go with conservitive guesses. Some people from the other group at the crag started to run over to see if he was okay when he started laughing really loud. He was like "whoah, what the fuck happened? hahahaha!" we talked about it and laughed a lot, then some dumbass from the other group tried to lecture us on helmets (he was belaying his son on TR from a single bolt and doing all kidas of other stupid shit). So then I decided I wanted to try to OS a 7a+, and I fell all over it. In fact I got so flamed out I couldn't finish it. I got to the last bolt but couldn't make the sloper moves to the chains (oh for a stick clip!). So we left the rope hanging and M said he wanted to finish of the 6b he whipped on. So he jumps back on it and whips at the same place, but without the slack. A pretty casual fall. He jumps back on gets a little higher and tries to clip from there. He pulls through a little slack to clip and his foot pops. Having clearer a path behind me I take a couple steps back, not wanting him to hit the slab again (cuz I was pretty sure his lucky-o-meter was nearing empty). But he didn't fall, he kinda barn doored way out and flagged deeply to stop it (that magic natural technique). It was actually pretty cool, except his leg was way the fuck behind the rope. So he moved around a little, got his feet straight, and tried to go even higher, but he fell - right when I was going to tell him to get his foot out from behind the rope. So he flipped and was kinda half sideways as he glanced off the ledge again, hurting his elbow, and he smacked into the slab upside down again. Again he was fine except his hip hurt a little. So he did the 5+ and cleaned the draws from that. There were a few more small whips in there somewhere, but I can't really remember them. Anyways, I thought it was fracking hilarious when he fell the first time. How did his foot pop only once he had BOTh draws unclipped and a fuck ton of slack?? bwahahahah! Wow crazy day dude. Glad to hear everyone is more or less fine. But on question arises. What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different. edit speilink OMG, YGD nOOb! Apparently. Hangs head in shame. turns in belay card.
HA! Don't worry, you are in good company. I've temporarily lost belay privileges at my gym at least once.
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Kartessa
Sep 27, 2011, 9:20 PM
Post #31313 of 45342
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notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Well, my man Michel took a bunch of gnar inverting clip-blowing whips into a slab start today. Somehow all he has is a sore elbow and a kinda ouchey hip. The man is like a fucking lepricon or something, SO lucky. He hit a ledge one time and just kinda glanced off it (making him invert) and another inverting fall he took (rope behind heel) he narrowly missed the ledge while upsidedown. what the hell? Okay, I was kinda tired last night so here's the full rundown, because it was fucking HILARIOUS. So here is the crag: http://scottishclimbs.com/...h_Berwick_Law_Quarry M had only lead in the gym, and I guess that was last term. I thought he knew about z-clips and back clips and all that fun stuff. So first all 4 of us lead the (wild iris) 5+ warm-up thing, it was pretty easy, then me and M went over and did law and disorder, a 6a+. I OS'ed it and M flashed it on TR in GREAT form, since he had topped out at 6a+ last term, this was a plus (he has good technique but he was weak as all hell and over the summer he did a bunch of pull-ups on a bar and repeaters on a door frame). Then he wanted to lead a different 6a+, so he jumped on Darkness Falling, which he did very smoothly, though he got a tiny bit off route halfway up, but he noticed and got back on route. After that he decided he wanted to lead a 6b, and old lawbreaker was right there so he jumped on it. This is when I realised he wasn't totally clear on back clips, z clips, and keep your heel out from behind the rope... So he climbs up no problems till he tries to z-clip the second bolt, I explain what's going on and he face palms. He makes some awesome moves with his magical polish technique, then he was in a position you could just tell was out of balance and just barely on. He clips the draw. Then he back-clips it, and falls off. Of course since he is about level with it there was no death unclipping of deemz to be had. I told him it was back clipped, but he was way to sketched to unclip it, cuz he was kinda far above the bolt below and the route kinda went slab-bulge-slab and he was right on the lip of the next slab, so he would kinda splat onto the slab below. There was also a big ledge halfway up the buldge that he might hit. Anyways, I tell him to just clip a draw above the first one and clip that one normally. so he clips the draw, and grabs both so he can pull some slack and clip the top one. He back clips that one, too. So I shout up that he should unclip the second one and clip it right. He screws around and is having trouble unclipping the top one, and somehow BOTH draws come unclipped and he has a gallon of slack in his hands. I saw him start to unclip the second draw and I was just about to shout "don't unclip that!" when his foot popped and he took the ride. So he starts falling, there is a LOT of fucking slack out, so I start running backwards and try to yard some slack through the grigri. All this really does is cause me to elbow Joe really hard and almost fall over cuz he was standing right behind me. So I didn't get much slack in. M hit the ledge with his right foot after around 5 feet of falling, and inverted. then he fell another 15+ feet upsidedown, straight into the slab. In my head the distances are further, but I'm not sure if that is memory growth, so I'ma go with conservitive guesses. Some people from the other group at the crag started to run over to see if he was okay when he started laughing really loud. He was like "whoah, what the fuck happened? hahahaha!" we talked about it and laughed a lot, then some dumbass from the other group tried to lecture us on helmets (he was belaying his son on TR from a single bolt and doing all kidas of other stupid shit). So then I decided I wanted to try to OS a 7a+, and I fell all over it. In fact I got so flamed out I couldn't finish it. I got to the last bolt but couldn't make the sloper moves to the chains (oh for a stick clip!). So we left the rope hanging and M said he wanted to finish of the 6b he whipped on. So he jumps back on it and whips at the same place, but without the slack. A pretty casual fall. He jumps back on gets a little higher and tries to clip from there. He pulls through a little slack to clip and his foot pops. Having clearer a path behind me I take a couple steps back, not wanting him to hit the slab again (cuz I was pretty sure his lucky-o-meter was nearing empty). But he didn't fall, he kinda barn doored way out and flagged deeply to stop it (that magic natural technique). It was actually pretty cool, except his leg was way the fuck behind the rope. So he moved around a little, got his feet straight, and tried to go even higher, but he fell - right when I was going to tell him to get his foot out from behind the rope. So he flipped and was kinda half sideways as he glanced off the ledge again, hurting his elbow, and he smacked into the slab upside down again. Again he was fine except his hip hurt a little. So he did the 5+ and cleaned the draws from that. There were a few more small whips in there somewhere, but I can't really remember them. Anyways, I thought it was fracking hilarious when he fell the first time. How did his foot pop only once he had BOTh draws unclipped and a fuck ton of slack?? bwahahahah! Wow crazy day dude. Glad to hear everyone is more or less fine. But on question arises. What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different. edit speilink OMG, YGD nOOb! Apparently. Hangs head in shame. turns in belay card. HA! Don't worry, you are in good company. I've temporarily lost belay privileges at my gym at least once.
I'm currently on a boiuldering ban
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Kartessa
Sep 27, 2011, 9:35 PM
Post #31314 of 45342
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Muhammad Ollie
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erisspirit
Sep 27, 2011, 9:35 PM
Post #31315 of 45342
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Kartessa wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Well, my man Michel took a bunch of gnar inverting clip-blowing whips into a slab start today. Somehow all he has is a sore elbow and a kinda ouchey hip. The man is like a fucking lepricon or something, SO lucky. He hit a ledge one time and just kinda glanced off it (making him invert) and another inverting fall he took (rope behind heel) he narrowly missed the ledge while upsidedown. what the hell? Okay, I was kinda tired last night so here's the full rundown, because it was fucking HILARIOUS. So here is the crag: http://scottishclimbs.com/...h_Berwick_Law_Quarry M had only lead in the gym, and I guess that was last term. I thought he knew about z-clips and back clips and all that fun stuff. So first all 4 of us lead the (wild iris) 5+ warm-up thing, it was pretty easy, then me and M went over and did law and disorder, a 6a+. I OS'ed it and M flashed it on TR in GREAT form, since he had topped out at 6a+ last term, this was a plus (he has good technique but he was weak as all hell and over the summer he did a bunch of pull-ups on a bar and repeaters on a door frame). Then he wanted to lead a different 6a+, so he jumped on Darkness Falling, which he did very smoothly, though he got a tiny bit off route halfway up, but he noticed and got back on route. After that he decided he wanted to lead a 6b, and old lawbreaker was right there so he jumped on it. This is when I realised he wasn't totally clear on back clips, z clips, and keep your heel out from behind the rope... So he climbs up no problems till he tries to z-clip the second bolt, I explain what's going on and he face palms. He makes some awesome moves with his magical polish technique, then he was in a position you could just tell was out of balance and just barely on. He clips the draw. Then he back-clips it, and falls off. Of course since he is about level with it there was no death unclipping of deemz to be had. I told him it was back clipped, but he was way to sketched to unclip it, cuz he was kinda far above the bolt below and the route kinda went slab-bulge-slab and he was right on the lip of the next slab, so he would kinda splat onto the slab below. There was also a big ledge halfway up the buldge that he might hit. Anyways, I tell him to just clip a draw above the first one and clip that one normally. so he clips the draw, and grabs both so he can pull some slack and clip the top one. He back clips that one, too. So I shout up that he should unclip the second one and clip it right. He screws around and is having trouble unclipping the top one, and somehow BOTH draws come unclipped and he has a gallon of slack in his hands. I saw him start to unclip the second draw and I was just about to shout "don't unclip that!" when his foot popped and he took the ride. So he starts falling, there is a LOT of fucking slack out, so I start running backwards and try to yard some slack through the grigri. All this really does is cause me to elbow Joe really hard and almost fall over cuz he was standing right behind me. So I didn't get much slack in. M hit the ledge with his right foot after around 5 feet of falling, and inverted. then he fell another 15+ feet upsidedown, straight into the slab. In my head the distances are further, but I'm not sure if that is memory growth, so I'ma go with conservitive guesses. Some people from the other group at the crag started to run over to see if he was okay when he started laughing really loud. He was like "whoah, what the fuck happened? hahahaha!" we talked about it and laughed a lot, then some dumbass from the other group tried to lecture us on helmets (he was belaying his son on TR from a single bolt and doing all kidas of other stupid shit). So then I decided I wanted to try to OS a 7a+, and I fell all over it. In fact I got so flamed out I couldn't finish it. I got to the last bolt but couldn't make the sloper moves to the chains (oh for a stick clip!). So we left the rope hanging and M said he wanted to finish of the 6b he whipped on. So he jumps back on it and whips at the same place, but without the slack. A pretty casual fall. He jumps back on gets a little higher and tries to clip from there. He pulls through a little slack to clip and his foot pops. Having clearer a path behind me I take a couple steps back, not wanting him to hit the slab again (cuz I was pretty sure his lucky-o-meter was nearing empty). But he didn't fall, he kinda barn doored way out and flagged deeply to stop it (that magic natural technique). It was actually pretty cool, except his leg was way the fuck behind the rope. So he moved around a little, got his feet straight, and tried to go even higher, but he fell - right when I was going to tell him to get his foot out from behind the rope. So he flipped and was kinda half sideways as he glanced off the ledge again, hurting his elbow, and he smacked into the slab upside down again. Again he was fine except his hip hurt a little. So he did the 5+ and cleaned the draws from that. There were a few more small whips in there somewhere, but I can't really remember them. Anyways, I thought it was fracking hilarious when he fell the first time. How did his foot pop only once he had BOTh draws unclipped and a fuck ton of slack?? bwahahahah! Wow crazy day dude. Glad to hear everyone is more or less fine. But on question arises. What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different. edit speilink OMG, YGD nOOb! Apparently. Hangs head in shame. turns in belay card. HA! Don't worry, you are in good company. I've temporarily lost belay privileges at my gym at least once. I'm currently on a boiuldering ban
I should be
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macherry
Sep 27, 2011, 10:07 PM
Post #31316 of 45342
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
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Kartessa wrote: macherry wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gotta make a visa run into Buffalo tomorrow. Yay for a 3-hour trip to the border [raised eyebrow emoticon] Visa denied No soup for you! what do you need the visa for? To go to Yosemite this weekend Really? You need a visa to travel to the US now? Like Bryan, I thought you could come and go as you pleased. When did that change? I'm akshully a français and your country doesn't appreciate our good cooking and loose morals ok, in all seriousness, are you a canadian citizen or a french citizen? both kind of matter to me because I'm now wondering if there are reciprocity laws for going to the EU or Canada when there weren't any just a few years ago. If I need to get a visa to go to Spain next year then now is a good time to learn about it. yeah, explain, why would you need a visa. If I was flying, it wouldn't be an issue, you just do the usual immigration thing when you get to the states. Because I'm crossing by land and flying out of Buffalo, I need to do the immigration thing which can take up to 5 hours. Had I gotten a 3-mont visa, I could just bypass the stupidly long waiting bullshit and just drive right through the border. But Noooooo, I need to go through immigration again on Thursday. Don't worry Greg, it's not something you need to apply for ahead of time with the EU, you just show up and they stamp your passport.
still don't get it. i've left canada to fly out of spokane wa. (same day) and did not need a visa. if you're canadian it's not a problem!!
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donald949
Sep 27, 2011, 11:11 PM
Post #31317 of 45342
(4034 views)
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Registered: May 24, 2007
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Kartessa wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Well, my man Michel took a bunch of gnar inverting clip-blowing whips into a slab start today. Somehow all he has is a sore elbow and a kinda ouchey hip. The man is like a fucking lepricon or something, SO lucky. He hit a ledge one time and just kinda glanced off it (making him invert) and another inverting fall he took (rope behind heel) he narrowly missed the ledge while upsidedown. what the hell? Okay, I was kinda tired last night so here's the full rundown, because it was fucking HILARIOUS. So here is the crag: http://scottishclimbs.com/...h_Berwick_Law_Quarry M had only lead in the gym, and I guess that was last term. I thought he knew about z-clips and back clips and all that fun stuff. So first all 4 of us lead the (wild iris) 5+ warm-up thing, it was pretty easy, then me and M went over and did law and disorder, a 6a+. I OS'ed it and M flashed it on TR in GREAT form, since he had topped out at 6a+ last term, this was a plus (he has good technique but he was weak as all hell and over the summer he did a bunch of pull-ups on a bar and repeaters on a door frame). Then he wanted to lead a different 6a+, so he jumped on Darkness Falling, which he did very smoothly, though he got a tiny bit off route halfway up, but he noticed and got back on route. After that he decided he wanted to lead a 6b, and old lawbreaker was right there so he jumped on it. This is when I realised he wasn't totally clear on back clips, z clips, and keep your heel out from behind the rope... So he climbs up no problems till he tries to z-clip the second bolt, I explain what's going on and he face palms. He makes some awesome moves with his magical polish technique, then he was in a position you could just tell was out of balance and just barely on. He clips the draw. Then he back-clips it, and falls off. Of course since he is about level with it there was no death unclipping of deemz to be had. I told him it was back clipped, but he was way to sketched to unclip it, cuz he was kinda far above the bolt below and the route kinda went slab-bulge-slab and he was right on the lip of the next slab, so he would kinda splat onto the slab below. There was also a big ledge halfway up the buldge that he might hit. Anyways, I tell him to just clip a draw above the first one and clip that one normally. so he clips the draw, and grabs both so he can pull some slack and clip the top one. He back clips that one, too. So I shout up that he should unclip the second one and clip it right. He screws around and is having trouble unclipping the top one, and somehow BOTH draws come unclipped and he has a gallon of slack in his hands. I saw him start to unclip the second draw and I was just about to shout "don't unclip that!" when his foot popped and he took the ride. So he starts falling, there is a LOT of fucking slack out, so I start running backwards and try to yard some slack through the grigri. All this really does is cause me to elbow Joe really hard and almost fall over cuz he was standing right behind me. So I didn't get much slack in. M hit the ledge with his right foot after around 5 feet of falling, and inverted. then he fell another 15+ feet upsidedown, straight into the slab. In my head the distances are further, but I'm not sure if that is memory growth, so I'ma go with conservitive guesses. Some people from the other group at the crag started to run over to see if he was okay when he started laughing really loud. He was like "whoah, what the fuck happened? hahahaha!" we talked about it and laughed a lot, then some dumbass from the other group tried to lecture us on helmets (he was belaying his son on TR from a single bolt and doing all kidas of other stupid shit). So then I decided I wanted to try to OS a 7a+, and I fell all over it. In fact I got so flamed out I couldn't finish it. I got to the last bolt but couldn't make the sloper moves to the chains (oh for a stick clip!). So we left the rope hanging and M said he wanted to finish of the 6b he whipped on. So he jumps back on it and whips at the same place, but without the slack. A pretty casual fall. He jumps back on gets a little higher and tries to clip from there. He pulls through a little slack to clip and his foot pops. Having clearer a path behind me I take a couple steps back, not wanting him to hit the slab again (cuz I was pretty sure his lucky-o-meter was nearing empty). But he didn't fall, he kinda barn doored way out and flagged deeply to stop it (that magic natural technique). It was actually pretty cool, except his leg was way the fuck behind the rope. So he moved around a little, got his feet straight, and tried to go even higher, but he fell - right when I was going to tell him to get his foot out from behind the rope. So he flipped and was kinda half sideways as he glanced off the ledge again, hurting his elbow, and he smacked into the slab upside down again. Again he was fine except his hip hurt a little. So he did the 5+ and cleaned the draws from that. There were a few more small whips in there somewhere, but I can't really remember them. Anyways, I thought it was fracking hilarious when he fell the first time. How did his foot pop only once he had BOTh draws unclipped and a fuck ton of slack?? bwahahahah! Wow crazy day dude. Glad to hear everyone is more or less fine. But on question arises. What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different. edit speilink OMG, YGD nOOb! Apparently. Hangs head in shame. turns in belay card. HA! Don't worry, you are in good company. I've temporarily lost belay privileges at my gym at least once. I'm currently on a boiuldering ban
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donald949
Sep 27, 2011, 11:12 PM
Post #31318 of 45342
(4032 views)
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Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
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donald949 wrote: Kartessa wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Well, my man Michel took a bunch of gnar inverting clip-blowing whips into a slab start today. Somehow all he has is a sore elbow and a kinda ouchey hip. The man is like a fucking lepricon or something, SO lucky. He hit a ledge one time and just kinda glanced off it (making him invert) and another inverting fall he took (rope behind heel) he narrowly missed the ledge while upsidedown. what the hell? Okay, I was kinda tired last night so here's the full rundown, because it was fucking HILARIOUS. So here is the crag: http://scottishclimbs.com/...h_Berwick_Law_Quarry M had only lead in the gym, and I guess that was last term. I thought he knew about z-clips and back clips and all that fun stuff. So first all 4 of us lead the (wild iris) 5+ warm-up thing, it was pretty easy, then me and M went over and did law and disorder, a 6a+. I OS'ed it and M flashed it on TR in GREAT form, since he had topped out at 6a+ last term, this was a plus (he has good technique but he was weak as all hell and over the summer he did a bunch of pull-ups on a bar and repeaters on a door frame). Then he wanted to lead a different 6a+, so he jumped on Darkness Falling, which he did very smoothly, though he got a tiny bit off route halfway up, but he noticed and got back on route. After that he decided he wanted to lead a 6b, and old lawbreaker was right there so he jumped on it. This is when I realised he wasn't totally clear on back clips, z clips, and keep your heel out from behind the rope... So he climbs up no problems till he tries to z-clip the second bolt, I explain what's going on and he face palms. He makes some awesome moves with his magical polish technique, then he was in a position you could just tell was out of balance and just barely on. He clips the draw. Then he back-clips it, and falls off. Of course since he is about level with it there was no death unclipping of deemz to be had. I told him it was back clipped, but he was way to sketched to unclip it, cuz he was kinda far above the bolt below and the route kinda went slab-bulge-slab and he was right on the lip of the next slab, so he would kinda splat onto the slab below. There was also a big ledge halfway up the buldge that he might hit. Anyways, I tell him to just clip a draw above the first one and clip that one normally. so he clips the draw, and grabs both so he can pull some slack and clip the top one. He back clips that one, too. So I shout up that he should unclip the second one and clip it right. He screws around and is having trouble unclipping the top one, and somehow BOTH draws come unclipped and he has a gallon of slack in his hands. I saw him start to unclip the second draw and I was just about to shout "don't unclip that!" when his foot popped and he took the ride. So he starts falling, there is a LOT of fucking slack out, so I start running backwards and try to yard some slack through the grigri. All this really does is cause me to elbow Joe really hard and almost fall over cuz he was standing right behind me. So I didn't get much slack in. M hit the ledge with his right foot after around 5 feet of falling, and inverted. then he fell another 15+ feet upsidedown, straight into the slab. In my head the distances are further, but I'm not sure if that is memory growth, so I'ma go with conservitive guesses. Some people from the other group at the crag started to run over to see if he was okay when he started laughing really loud. He was like "whoah, what the fuck happened? hahahaha!" we talked about it and laughed a lot, then some dumbass from the other group tried to lecture us on helmets (he was belaying his son on TR from a single bolt and doing all kidas of other stupid shit). So then I decided I wanted to try to OS a 7a+, and I fell all over it. In fact I got so flamed out I couldn't finish it. I got to the last bolt but couldn't make the sloper moves to the chains (oh for a stick clip!). So we left the rope hanging and M said he wanted to finish of the 6b he whipped on. So he jumps back on it and whips at the same place, but without the slack. A pretty casual fall. He jumps back on gets a little higher and tries to clip from there. He pulls through a little slack to clip and his foot pops. Having clearer a path behind me I take a couple steps back, not wanting him to hit the slab again (cuz I was pretty sure his lucky-o-meter was nearing empty). But he didn't fall, he kinda barn doored way out and flagged deeply to stop it (that magic natural technique). It was actually pretty cool, except his leg was way the fuck behind the rope. So he moved around a little, got his feet straight, and tried to go even higher, but he fell - right when I was going to tell him to get his foot out from behind the rope. So he flipped and was kinda half sideways as he glanced off the ledge again, hurting his elbow, and he smacked into the slab upside down again. Again he was fine except his hip hurt a little. So he did the 5+ and cleaned the draws from that. There were a few more small whips in there somewhere, but I can't really remember them. Anyways, I thought it was fracking hilarious when he fell the first time. How did his foot pop only once he had BOTh draws unclipped and a fuck ton of slack?? bwahahahah! Wow crazy day dude. Glad to hear everyone is more or less fine. But on question arises. What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different. edit speilink OMG, YGD nOOb! Apparently. Hangs head in shame. turns in belay card. HA! Don't worry, you are in good company. I've temporarily lost belay privileges at my gym at least once. I'm currently on a boiuldering ban Never been a member at a gym. But a couple of guys noobs at work started climbing at the gym. I've been out with them a couple times this spring. So we are planning to start climbing in the gym on a regular basis. I guess now I'll have to get belay certified.
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Kartessa
Sep 27, 2011, 11:37 PM
Post #31320 of 45342
(4027 views)
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Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
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macherry wrote: Kartessa wrote: macherry wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gotta make a visa run into Buffalo tomorrow. Yay for a 3-hour trip to the border [raised eyebrow emoticon] Visa denied No soup for you! what do you need the visa for? To go to Yosemite this weekend Really? You need a visa to travel to the US now? Like Bryan, I thought you could come and go as you pleased. When did that change? I'm akshully a français and your country doesn't appreciate our good cooking and loose morals ok, in all seriousness, are you a canadian citizen or a french citizen? both kind of matter to me because I'm now wondering if there are reciprocity laws for going to the EU or Canada when there weren't any just a few years ago. If I need to get a visa to go to Spain next year then now is a good time to learn about it. yeah, explain, why would you need a visa. If I was flying, it wouldn't be an issue, you just do the usual immigration thing when you get to the states. Because I'm crossing by land and flying out of Buffalo, I need to do the immigration thing which can take up to 5 hours. Had I gotten a 3-mont visa, I could just bypass the stupidly long waiting bullshit and just drive right through the border. But Noooooo, I need to go through immigration again on Thursday. Don't worry Greg, it's not something you need to apply for ahead of time with the EU, you just show up and they stamp your passport. still don't get it. i've left canada to fly out of spokane wa. (same day) and did not need a visa. if you're canadian it's not a problem!!
You got through because you had Canadian papers.
I'm traveling on a French passport because I lost my Canadian on when I moved.
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Kartessa
Sep 27, 2011, 11:40 PM
Post #31321 of 45342
(4025 views)
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Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
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Greg, if you fly to Morocco and cross to Spain by sea, you'll have to get your entry visa before boarding the boat.
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donald949
Sep 28, 2011, 12:06 AM
Post #31322 of 45342
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Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
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Kartessa wrote: Greg, if you fly to Morocco and cross to Spain by sea, you'll have to get your entry visa before boarding the boat.
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donald949
Sep 28, 2011, 12:07 AM
Post #31323 of 45342
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Registered: May 24, 2007
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donald949 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Greg, if you fly to Morocco and cross to Spain by sea, you'll have to get your entry visa before boarding the boat. Don't forget he has to stop at the Canaries on the way from Moroco.
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donald949
Sep 28, 2011, 12:09 AM
Post #31324 of 45342
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Registered: May 24, 2007
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donald949 wrote: donald949 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Greg, if you fly to Morocco and cross to Spain by sea, you'll have to get your entry visa before boarding the boat. Don't forget he has to stop at the Canaries on the way from Moroco. The other option is to fly to Scottland, drive from there via the Chunnel.
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donald949
Sep 28, 2011, 12:09 AM
Post #31325 of 45342
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Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
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PTFTW
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