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currupt4130
Feb 15, 2010, 5:08 PM
Post #26 of 72
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I lead the second day I ever tied in. Went on a trip with the climbing club at school and realized that TR wasn't the way to go and bugged the hell out of the guy leading the trip til he made me take a practice fall and showed me how to clip. It was all over after that.
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mrtristan
Feb 16, 2010, 5:15 PM
Post #27 of 72
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I say start leading as soon as possible. If you have the knowledge of what to do, there's no reason you shouldn't hop on a bolted 5.4 or 5.6 or something. The key there, though, is having the knowledge of what you do. If you need to take a class at the gym to learn that, so be it. If not, read some books and search the forums, etc, and figure out what to do.
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darkgift06
Feb 16, 2010, 7:27 PM
Post #28 of 72
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if you're at the bottom & want to get to the top with out walking way the hell & gone. you lead.
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mrtristan
Feb 16, 2010, 7:36 PM
Post #29 of 72
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darkgift06 wrote: if you're at the bottom & want to get to the top with out walking way the hell & gone. you lead.
I like that answer.
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robbovius
Feb 16, 2010, 8:20 PM
Post #30 of 72
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oldsalt wrote: TarHeelEMT wrote: Gyms usually have a grade minimum for leading to keep people who don't have a clue from trying it. That's a liability thing, rather than a statement that you need to be able to climb X grade in order to lead. I started leading trad when my maximum gym climb was a 5.7, maybe a 5.8 on a good day. Go find an outdoor climb that well within your ability and go for it (provided you know how to lead safely). This is the truth for some gyms, but for others it is a reflection of the belief that leaders must be muy macho hombres. I learned to lead after one year of climbing, and only at 5.5-5.7. I took the test on a 5.7 route in the gym. Our gym's climbing director at that time believed that leading was a function of experience and climbing within your own limits. At 60 years old, I will probably never climb 5.10 and I have no desire to do so. That contributes to why I won't climb 5.10 in the first place. I love to spend a day doing five or six pitches of 5.5 - 5.7 on gear or mixed sport. I am probably not the only climber in America who feels this way.
no, you're not ;-)
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minorclimber
Feb 16, 2010, 8:54 PM
Post #31 of 72
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i just tried my first lead, on a sport route, indoors. I sucked. i was shaking and i fell on easy moves, that i should of been able to do in my sleep (it was probably an 5.8, only because it was overhanging, and i climb 5.10a's and b's) and only got 2 bolts off the deck, until i fell on an easy move, every time (probably because i had been bouldering and TR'ing really hard for 4 hours before this) and i only got 2 attempts, because my belayer decided she had to make sure i was "strong enough to lead"
so, it isn't easy, at all
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shimanilami
Feb 16, 2010, 9:45 PM
Post #32 of 72
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Don't bother asking us if you're ready. You need only ask yourself.
And if the answer is, "I'm ready", then tie the fuck in and send that biatch.
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kennoyce
Feb 16, 2010, 10:04 PM
Post #33 of 72
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NOW!!!!!!!!!
Seriously, there is no reason not to start leading as soon as possible. I know I've told my story on here a few times, but here it is again.
I wanted to be a climber from the first time I TR'd the wall at the local REI when I was like 8 years old. My friends and I would go climbing at the gym as often as we could from then on (this was like once a year max).
When I was 15, my best friend turned 16 and could drive, so for his birthday he got a harness, figure 8, and 8 quickdraws. We had the same size feet so we went in together on a pair of shoes and a rope (I already had a harness that I bought for my extensive gym climbing).
We really didn't know anything about leading, but we knew where this one route was just off the road in AF canyon so we decided to give it a go (come to find out it was 5.11). We would just keep trying to lead it, never getting past the crux, while falling repeatedly. We never made it to the chains, not that we would have known what to do if we had gotten there anyway, so we would just down-lead to retrieve our gear.
Finally we got a guide book and were able to try some easier routes that were within our ability. We still didn't know what to do once we got to the chains, so we would hike around to the top of the cliff and rappel off a tree to get our gear. Finally we saw someone clean their gear by threading the chains and we were set.
My only advice is to lead as soon as possible. Make sure you have some common sense so that you don't kill yourself, but get out there and have some fun.
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zealotnoob
Feb 16, 2010, 10:54 PM
Post #34 of 72
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I did some top-roping outside and read FOTH every day. My first lead was two months later when I found someone to lend me a trad rack.
Grab your gonads, screw your head on straight and tie in.
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avalon420
Feb 16, 2010, 11:54 PM
Post #35 of 72
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mr8615 wrote: I wish I would've started leading right away and was never taught the 'stigma' about leading being harder and scarier. In an ideal situation, I would've just learned that leading is how you go up and learning to do it safely is how you learn to climb. Could've skipped the mental training wheels all together. So I'm trying to say, go outside, get on something you would put someone on during their first day out, and lead it. You already understand the movement and techniques, get with someone who can make sure you're not going to kill yourself. Decide that you're physically capable of climbing without falling, regardless of protection systems, and do it.
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easy_rider71
May 6, 2010, 2:52 PM
Post #36 of 72
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I'm a total noob who just started climbing a few weeks ago. My climbing partner is a very experienced pro (military-trained with thousands of climbs including some 5.10 first ascents) and is an ardent traditionalist. I'm definitely wanting to start leading ASAP, probably on lower grade non-bolted routes 5.5 or 5.6's I guess. Most of the bolted routes at my local spot seem to be around the edge of my abilities right now (5.9s), so leading them doesn't sound very smart yet. His plan for teaching me is to start with an afternoon or so of just placing pro at ground level and testing it so I get some solid feel for it and gain confidence in my placement, and probably practice some falls at safe levels. I'm also trying to follow him and clean gear on as many routes as possible to further get a feel for the different pace of trad and pro placement, gear management, rope management, etc. Not sure if that helps you, but that's my plan for starting to lead, which will probably be on my next outing. I really really dig the purist attitude of trad, so I can't wait.
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ClimbTheCrag
May 6, 2010, 3:05 PM
Post #37 of 72
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I led on my 4th time climbing, all outdoors, it was a 5.6 onsight, then i led a couple 5.9's dogging them most the way. I'd been rappeling several times before, so I never really had as much fear being on a semi tight top rope like "most" beginners
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rangerrob
May 6, 2010, 8:00 PM
Post #38 of 72
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There's a lot of shit to learn about in order to keep your ass from dying. If you really want to hop on the sharp end that fast, I hope you are either ridiculously strong and don't fall, or incredibly lucky and manage to escape the learning curve without major catastrophe. Most people learn to lead by following an experienced climber on routes of many types for a while, learning all those things you can't learn in a gym. What's a while? Well, that's up to you to figure out.
RR
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redlude97
May 6, 2010, 8:13 PM
Post #39 of 72
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One thing to consider about starting too early before you build enough of a climbing base is that lower grade problems in general will have a higher likelylood of injury is a fall does occur due to less vertical climbs and more ledges. as you progress into the 5.10 and higher grades the climbs are more vertical in my experience and the falls cleaner. There are definitely some 5.7 routes i have been on that i would not have wanted to take a fall on, even though the likelyhood of falling was very low
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tehbillzor
May 7, 2010, 2:26 AM
Post #40 of 72
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If i was your friend i would teach you how to lead belay than have you lead belay me up an easy route where i place the pro, and than pull the rope after the climb so you can go up without placing pro only needing to clip in.
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guangzhou
May 7, 2010, 2:37 AM
Post #41 of 72
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The sooner you learn to lead the better. By putting it off, you add to the psychological end of leading. Push yourself on top=-rope, and lead easy routes until you are comfortable with clipping or placing gear.
Personally, I top-roped five or six routes before I started leading. My buddy and I self taught each other to lead in Lake Tahoe and Yosemite. We'd top-rope harder route, aid on gear to build trust, and lead easy routes to build confidence.
To this day, I climb better on lead than on top-rope. People who climb with me actually find it funny to watch me when I top-rope. Suppose to look like a completely new climber.
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rangerrob
May 7, 2010, 10:21 PM
Post #42 of 72
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What's a toprope?
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bill413
May 7, 2010, 10:53 PM
Post #43 of 72
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
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rangerrob wrote: What's a toprope?
It's a style of beanie.
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kachoong
May 7, 2010, 11:06 PM
Post #44 of 72
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easy_rider71 wrote: I'm a total noob who just started climbing a few weeks ago. My climbing partner is a very experienced pro (military-trained with thousands of climbs including some 5.10 first ascents) and is an ardent traditionalist. I'm definitely wanting to start leading ASAP, probably on lower grade non-bolted routes 5.5 or 5.6's I guess. Most of the bolted routes at my local spot seem to be around the edge of my abilities right now (5.9s), so leading them doesn't sound very smart yet. His plan for teaching me is to start with an afternoon or so of just placing pro at ground level and testing it so I get some solid feel for it and gain confidence in my placement, and probably practice some falls at safe levels. I'm also trying to follow him and clean gear on as many routes as possible to further get a feel for the different pace of trad and pro placement, gear management, rope management, etc. Not sure if that helps you, but that's my plan for starting to lead, which will probably be on my next outing. I really really dig the purist attitude of trad, so I can't wait.
You may want to read this thread too... got some good stories and tips.
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jt512
May 8, 2010, 1:42 AM
Post #45 of 72
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Posts: 21904
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easy_rider71 wrote: I'm a total noob who just started climbing a few weeks ago. My climbing partner is a very experienced pro (military-trained with thousands of climbs including some 5.10 first ascents) and is an ardent traditionalist. I'm definitely wanting to start leading ASAP, probably on lower grade non-bolted routes 5.5 or 5.6's I guess. Most of the bolted routes at my local spot seem to be around the edge of my abilities right now (5.9s), so leading them doesn't sound very smart yet. His plan for teaching me is to start with an afternoon or so of just placing pro at ground level and testing it so I get some solid feel for it and gain confidence in my placement, and probably practice some falls at safe levels. I'm also trying to follow him and clean gear on as many routes as possible to further get a feel for the different pace of trad and pro placement, gear management, rope management, etc. Not sure if that helps you, but that's my plan for starting to lead, which will probably be on my next outing. I really really dig the purist attitude of trad, so I can't wait.
Sounds like a plan. Just stick with routes well within your climbing ability while you're still dialing in your protection skills. While you're on these easy climbs it's important not to fall. As someone above mentioned, easy climbs tend to be low-angled and full of ledges, so that if you fall, you are likely to be injured. Once your ability to place good pro is solid, you can start to gradually increase the difficulty of the climbs you lead. Paradoxically, more difficult climbs are often the safer ones—provided the availability of pro, and your ability to take advantage of it, is good—since the climbs are steeper and thus the potential falls cleaner.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on May 9, 2010, 6:53 AM)
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blueeyedclimber
May 8, 2010, 2:33 AM
Post #46 of 72
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rangerrob wrote: What's a toprope?
What your second does.
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rangerrob
May 9, 2010, 4:41 PM
Post #47 of 72
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Oh! Sounds lame
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blueeyedclimber
May 10, 2010, 12:00 PM
Post #48 of 72
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rangerrob wrote: Oh! Sounds lame
I know, right?
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ClimbClimb
May 10, 2010, 1:06 PM
Post #49 of 72
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FWIW, a lot of the answers are mixed together here... there's
- leading in the gym
- sport leading outside
- trad leading outside
I think the advice of "doing it as soon as you can" becomes less valid as you progress down the list, since the complexity of the skills required and the consequences increase as you move down the list. Don't get hurt.
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guangzhou
May 11, 2010, 1:01 AM
Post #50 of 72
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ClimbClimb wrote: FWIW, a lot of the answers are mixed together here... there's - leading in the gym - sport leading outside - trad leading outside I think the advice of "doing it as soon as you can" becomes less valid as you progress down the list, since the complexity of the skills required and the consequences increase as you move down the list. Don't get hurt.
I don't. Again, the longer you wait, the more anxiety you'll develop. Learning to place gear isn't complicated, learning to trust it is. Once, I learned to climb on lead before sport routes or gym were around.
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