|
pendereki
Jun 1, 2010, 3:15 AM
Post #26 of 39
(1069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2004
Posts: 323
|
[quote "jonathan.gaillard
Do you consider the texas rope trick to be useless on sport climbs?
Yes.
|
|
|
|
|
clc
Jun 1, 2010, 3:20 AM
Post #27 of 39
(1060 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 12, 2005
Posts: 495
|
rightarm is onto it. If there are plain hanger then there mostly is a walk off. I always put rap hangers or chains on the routes I put up. I've never seen regular hangers at the top of a route with no walk off.
|
|
|
|
|
currupt4130
Jun 1, 2010, 3:29 AM
Post #28 of 39
(1054 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 7, 2008
Posts: 515
|
jonathan.gaillard wrote: Ya most of the hangers I see are metolius, but I rarely see these bad guys: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/rap_hanger.html I live in Virginia Beach. The only climbing during the week I can do outside is out at manchester bridge richmond and on weekends I get out to the western part of NC.
Manchester doesn't qualify for a crag. I'm sorry.
|
|
|
|
|
jonathan.gaillard
Jun 1, 2010, 3:52 AM
Post #29 of 39
(1037 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2009
Posts: 96
|
Well that settles that :P
(This post was edited by jonathan.gaillard on Jun 1, 2010, 3:54 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
jonathan.gaillard
Jun 1, 2010, 3:53 AM
Post #30 of 39
(1035 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2009
Posts: 96
|
clc wrote: rightarm is onto it. If there are plain hanger then there mostly is a walk off. I always put rap hangers or chains on the routes I put up. I've never seen regular hangers at the top of a route with no walk off.
Most of the time I actually prefer a rap, but that is just me.
|
|
|
|
|
jonathan.gaillard
Jun 1, 2010, 3:56 AM
Post #31 of 39
(1031 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2009
Posts: 96
|
currupt4130 wrote: Manchester doesn't qualify for a crag. I'm sorry.
Indeed it does not, this state has to be the most pathetic climbing state in the east.
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Jun 1, 2010, 4:07 AM
Post #32 of 39
(1023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
jonathan.gaillard wrote: Ya most of the hangers I see are metolius, but I rarely see these bad guys: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/rap_hanger.html I live in Virginia Beach. The only climbing during the week I can do outside is out at manchester bridge richmond and on weekends I get out to the western part of NC.
I don't buy your "this is for multiple raps on a multi pitch" line. The only places in NC that you would make that many raps to get off a climb are walls that I'm assuming you haven't been on. You almost always walk off or find a central rap station with good anchors.
If you insist on climbing at Manchester Wall, then maybe you should take it upon yourself to be a steward of your local "crag" and equip the bolts with biners or quick links. Or better, just put proper anchor rings on the routes that you have to rap off. If I recall correctly, there's only a few routes that you must rap off of, and they are like 30 feet tall.
The one time I went there, I set up a few TR's for a gumby on those short towers. I would just pull the rope through the draws at the top, lead the next climb, clean it, and let her TR that one. At the end of the day I had 8 draws hanging on four anchors. I still had enough (4) to lead one more route. Then I walked around the top of the tower, collected all of my draws, and down climbed.
|
|
|
|
|
irregularpanda
Jun 1, 2010, 4:39 AM
Post #33 of 39
(1016 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 13, 2007
Posts: 1364
|
jonathan.gaillard wrote: Do you consider the texas rope trick to be useless on sport climbs? In reply to: Yes I do. I climb on 70 meter ropes as a rule, and if I just have hangers to rappel from, I'll leave biners or quick links. Also I have heard as many arguments to leaving quicklinks and to not leaving them.
I'll bite. What arguments have you heard against quick links? Why are quick links bad?
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Jun 1, 2010, 5:38 AM
Post #34 of 39
(995 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
irregularpanda wrote: jonathan.gaillard wrote: Do you consider the texas rope trick to be useless on sport climbs? In reply to: Yes I do. I climb on 70 meter ropes as a rule, and if I just have hangers to rappel from, I'll leave biners or quick links. Also I have heard as many arguments to leaving quicklinks and to not leaving them. I'll bite. What arguments have you heard against quick links? Why are quick links bad?
People have the hate on for them rusting/corroding shut.
Personally I prefer quicklinks, because they remain on the route, where as a biner will disappear. People need to learn how to do a thread.
|
|
|
|
|
irregularpanda
Jun 1, 2010, 5:55 AM
Post #35 of 39
(988 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 13, 2007
Posts: 1364
|
coastal_climber wrote: irregularpanda wrote: jonathan.gaillard wrote: Do you consider the texas rope trick to be useless on sport climbs? In reply to: Yes I do. I climb on 70 meter ropes as a rule, and if I just have hangers to rappel from, I'll leave biners or quick links. Also I have heard as many arguments to leaving quicklinks and to not leaving them. I'll bite. What arguments have you heard against quick links? Why are quick links bad? People have the hate on for them rusting/corroding shut. Personally I prefer quicklinks, because they remain on the route, where as a biner will disappear. People need to learn how to do a thread.
I don't believe in editing. Unless I'm drunk, and say something really dumb, like deny the existence of the holocaust or try to type with a swedish accent.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jun 1, 2010, 6:18 AM
Post #36 of 39
(978 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
irregularpanda wrote: coastal_climber wrote: irregularpanda wrote: jonathan.gaillard wrote: Do you consider the texas rope trick to be useless on sport climbs? In reply to: Yes I do. I climb on 70 meter ropes as a rule, and if I just have hangers to rappel from, I'll leave biners or quick links. Also I have heard as many arguments to leaving quicklinks and to not leaving them. I'll bite. What arguments have you heard against quick links? Why are quick links bad? People have the hate on for them rusting/corroding shut. Personally I prefer quicklinks, because they remain on the route, where as a biner will disappear. People need to learn how to do a thread. I don't believe in editing. Unless I'm drunk, and say something really dumb, like deny the existence of the holocaust or try to type with a swedish accent.
Ja, güd jörb.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
carabiner96
Jun 1, 2010, 1:38 PM
Post #37 of 39
(937 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12610
|
jonathan.gaillard wrote: clc wrote: rightarm is onto it. If there are plain hanger then there mostly is a walk off. I always put rap hangers or chains on the routes I put up. I've never seen regular hangers at the top of a route with no walk off. Most of the time I actually prefer a rap, but that is just me.
Just because that's what you prefer doesn't mean that's the way it's meant to be done. Instead of doing a tangled shit show rap, take a hint and walk off or fond the rap station.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Jun 1, 2010, 2:10 PM
Post #38 of 39
(933 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
I prefer the classic beat box. The downside to this is that I wind up with spit all over my hands. 
|
|
|
|
|
jeepnphreak
Jun 1, 2010, 2:52 PM
Post #39 of 39
(912 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 1259
|
irregularpanda wrote: jonathan.gaillard wrote: Do you consider the texas rope trick to be useless on sport climbs? In reply to: Yes I do. I climb on 70 meter ropes as a rule, and if I just have hangers to rappel from, I'll leave biners or quick links. Also I have heard as many arguments to leaving quicklinks and to not leaving them. I'll bite. What arguments have you heard against quick links? Why are quick links bad?
Useally its because people will use them to bail off of a route instead of a biner, witch can be a PITA to work around/remove later on (useually in the crux area). But for Rap station and anchors quick links are just fine, useually you are at a good stance and thus you can work on replacing the gear as it gets old.
|
|
|
|
|
|
