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rrrADAM
Oct 20, 2003, 10:36 AM
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rrradam moved this thread from US - MidWest to General.
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iamthewallress
Oct 20, 2003, 4:57 PM
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iamthewallress moved this thread from General to Climbing History & Trivia.
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climbersoze
Dec 31, 2003, 9:54 PM
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How about Harding? Bridwell? Whittaker? Mallory, Robbins, Long, Lowe... the list of names go on and on when I think of the greats. As far as the influence... here is my rationale
Whittaker - was the man behind REI - affordable gear for any/everyone
Long - has anyone ever heard of probably the most famous series of books in climbing?
Mallory - ummm "Because it is there"
As far as Harding, Bridwell, Robbins.... take a look at their resumes.
Alex Lowe - I just wanted to be him before his tragic ski trip.... IMO the greatest all-around American Mtneer ever.
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dee
Feb 12, 2004, 8:15 PM
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Fred Beckey, Layton Kor and Russell Walling
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dee
Feb 19, 2004, 8:26 PM
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On second thought I will submit Edward Whymper, Layton Kor and Lynn Hill (go Lynnie).
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joe
Feb 19, 2004, 9:00 PM
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influencing climbing as a whole? you definately couldn't pin it down to one person, not even twenty.
as for my personal climbing, i'd have to say my friends.
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din
Feb 19, 2004, 9:07 PM
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tom brokaw, duh.
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mtnjohn
Feb 19, 2004, 9:09 PM
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"Who has influenced climbing the most ?"
ME!
I have done more for climbing than any other person. Ever.
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deleted
Deleted
Feb 19, 2004, 9:15 PM
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I think the most influential person in climbing is Climbing magazine.
Not a joke, think about it for a second.
The original poster said Dean Potter. Obviously the poster is someone who just started climbing in the last few years when dean potter has been getting the most amount of coverage in the rags. Certainly, he's done some great stuff to deserve the recognition, but in no way would he be considered one of the most influential people in climbing...he's not even 40. Anyone who said sharma also...
Climbing magazine has affected more of these responses than anything else...climbing magazine is the most influential person in climbing.
If you really want to nail down a person, you have to specify a period of time. Underhill for the 20s. Weissner for the 30s and 40s. Harding or Hillary for the 50s. Definitely Chouinard for the 60s. Who knows for the 70s. Maybe Mugs Stump for the 80s. And it's too early to pick someone for the 90s. Those are the visionaries who've shown that the impossible, as humans always seem to prove, is in fact possible. Anyone who doesn't deserve that description doesn't deserve the recognition.
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joe
Feb 19, 2004, 11:35 PM
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In reply to: Ammon McNeely
definately influenced my climbing tons. probably one of the top five aid/speed climbers on the continent. bro4lyfe.
charlie porter (took rurps and copperheads to the next level)
frank sacherer (freeing yosemite aid lines in the 60s)
george lowe (canadian rockies, little cottonwood)
greg lowe (many pre-1970 5.11+ routes)
jimmy dunn (for still being a bad ass)
on and on and on...
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dynoguy
Feb 19, 2004, 11:40 PM
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My vote goes out to Lynn Hill. She shattered gender and difficulty boundaries.
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hallm
Feb 20, 2004, 12:15 AM
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Unless I am remembering incorrectly, Gullich died from driving too fast on the Audobon.
And I think John Salathe certainly deserves a mention here. I also second Robert Underhill Jr., who introduced roped climbing to North America.
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ipsofacto
Feb 20, 2004, 12:16 AM
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23456789
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crag
Feb 20, 2004, 1:06 AM
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In reply to: In your opinion, who has been the most influential climber of all time ?
Of all time – you would, I think, have to go back to the 1800’s in Europe somewhere, I do a little digging and you could probably come-up with a couple of names. Here in the US though I’d take a long hard look at those dirt bags that hung around Yosemite a couple years back, Robbins, Pratt, Harding, Frost, etc. Along with an iron smith form Santa Cruz they sure did a lot for modern climbing here in the US.
One guy that stands out not necessarily for his climbing but for his invention or thievery, (Ok! so he did actually buy a couple of units form Greg’s brother) again depending who you talk to, is Ray Jardine or would it be Mark Vallance, founder of Wild Country, for his foresight in purchasing the rights from Ray, a friend, to make the units still this day as we know them – Friends.
I like the idea of Jon Gill, but we shouldn’t forget Rob Murray and John Sherman the Verm-inator. John Bachar, John Long and Lynn Hill certainly deserve our attention especially Lynn. Her achievement on the Nose is unsurpassed even to the likes of a Dean Potter, another front runner of our time. My heart goes out to Wolfgang & Dano two very bright lights doused before their time, think of were they - were we would be today.
One a more Global scale Mallory & Hillary certainly rank among the highest especially Hillary. I believe though if you say Hillary you have to say Norgay afterwhich there is Messner who had a huge influence on mountaineering.
Nicole, Graham, Sharma and others for their explosive power and ability to constantly set the bar higher, but then again isn’t that what the climbers did before them?
Finally I’d like you to consider the local guy, the guy without praise except form his beer drinking buddies went out every weekend and developed a local crag just for the pure enjoyment of it.
Cheers,
Crag
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jv
Feb 20, 2004, 2:30 AM
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In reply to: In your opinion, who has been the most influential climber of all time ? Just wanted to get some opinions out there, I might write a paper on this or something, and wanted to get some ideas! thanks :D In my opinions it is Dean Potter, he's done alot of outrageous new things, what do YOU think??
What has Potter done that is outrageous and new? More like taking some well established pursuits (free soloing, roped soloing, speed ascents) to the next level. More importantly, how has Potter influenced climbing "the most." Don't leave us hanging.
JV
P.S. See the last thread on this topic a couple of weeks ago for my opinion, if interested.
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okinawatricam
Feb 20, 2004, 2:39 AM
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Wolfgang Gulich, is pretty phenominal. When he was criticize about free climbing standarts by Messner, who said free climbers could use their skills in the high mountains, he put up Ridders of the Storm in Paagonia.
He cam within two pitches of freeing the Nose twop decades before the route went free. He didn't put nearly has much time intoit either.
Lynn Hill has definately broken some Gender barriers and showed extreme talents for climbing. But Some other great women have done great things to. Some are much more rounded than Ms. Hill too. Ice Mountaineering, rock, and aid all need to be mixed together to truly be well rounded.
Alex Lowe would be a good candidate for this title, but I am not sure one climber could fit this shoe.
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rockitjeff
Feb 20, 2004, 3:19 AM
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i second DEE's vote of Layton Kor and Fred Becky (can't give Walling the nod, tho...
Fred Becky 'cause he's showing us old guys how to dirtbag at 83.
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polarwid
Feb 20, 2004, 3:30 AM
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Messner, Kor, Beckey...Lowe, Tackle, Hill
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tanslacks
Feb 20, 2004, 3:32 AM
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Ok, what about all the Brits? Bonnington, Scott and too many to name. They climbed like men and drank like fish They are my idols (hick) :wink:
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moss1956
Feb 20, 2004, 3:51 AM
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I wonder who had the idea of using chocks to protect a climb instead of pitons. Who built the first cam? Who came up with the idea of sport climbing?
Who made bouldering popular?
Big walls, and trudging up 25,000 ft peaks certainly gets attention, but it is not what the bulk of climbers do. Certainly athletes influence people, but...
none of those athletes would be influencing people if their particular brand of rock sport existed.
In terms of sheer numbers, probably whoever had the idea of abseiling with gear instead of wrapping the rope around your body.
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taalon
Feb 20, 2004, 4:04 AM
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The first protection i ever heard of was in UK by some guys that took Railroad nuts from along the rails that rail road gangs dropped after replacing a rail. They attached a line and carabiner to it and thus was born the first NUT lol... i do not remember where i read that but it was like late 1800's or early 1900's i think it said. only problem was very few cracks and places to place them since they were only one size lol.
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joe
Feb 20, 2004, 11:04 PM
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In reply to: I wonder who had the idea of using chocks to protect a climb instead of pitons.
i was going to list doug robinson for his article about clean climbing, whose title escapes me at the moment. he got the ball rolling on probably the single most important change in climbing. it's amazing how the climbers of the day took it upon themselves to self govern the change, all within a couple of years.
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bobd1953
Feb 21, 2004, 1:12 AM
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In reply to: i was going to list doug robinson for his article about clean climbing, whose title escapes me at the moment. he got the ball rolling on probably the single most important change in climbing. it's amazing how the climbers of the day took it upon themselves to self govern the change, all within a couple of years.
That article was in the Chouinard catalog, I believe it was 1973 or 1974.
Royal Robbins bought nuts back from a trip he took to England in the late 60's
British climber were the first to use "nuts" and they did get them from railroad tracks on the way to crags.
Troll, in England was one of the first to make and sell them.
Tom Frost was mind begin the early nuts being make by Chouinard Equip.
Greg Lowe was one of the first people to design and produce camming gear in the US. I think he got the idea and a pro-type on a climbing trip to Russia in the early 70's. |
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thegreytradster
Feb 21, 2004, 1:19 AM
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It was the 72 chouinard catalog
http://climbaz.com/...ard72/chouinard.html
Still have mine!
Although some nuts were avalable for a few years before this, and a few of us made our own, they were mostly looked on as an oddity. This article on how to use them really marks the begining of "clean climbing" as the accepted ethic in the US.
One that has been missed is Joe Brown. A Brit who pushed to a new level and also cracked the "class" barrier. His exploits as written up in Mountain inspired on this side of the pond also.
Check out Cetotath (sp) Corner on pg 23 of the catalog. A very early 10 that he did (late 50's early 60's?) with what we would consider today "non existent" protection.
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