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slablizard
Nov 11, 2003, 10:26 PM
Post #26 of 32
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Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 5558
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In reply to: Hey got my first lead this weekend and have some questions. Is it normal to still have a rush 20 minutes after you get down Depends on how important was that route for you do you wear a helmet when you lead Depends on the crag, generally no. Is it ok to buy new draws from ebay of should i float the 75 bucks for ones at rei? Don't save on climbing gear. What a good first rope? The best you can afford For some reason i kept putting the rope through the draw backwards. The guy who was teaching me said to make sure it was set so if you fall it doesn't pull out, Is the same thin as thread it from the rock side out? no... Is it better to push yourself till you fall or clip in the weight the rope and rest then continue on? Push yourself, you'll get stronger and more confident. NEVER rest on a a draw :-) What is it called if I have done the route on top rope then lead it without falling or weighting the rope? Flash. Is it safe for me to start leading routes now that i pretty much no how or should I have someone there to check my stuff for the fist few times? Your partner should do this always. Do all sport climber plan to climb trad one day?
Hmm maybe, when I get old.
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redpoint73
Nov 12, 2003, 1:32 PM
Post #27 of 32
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 1717
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In reply to: In reply to: What is it called if I have done the route on top rope then lead it without falling or weighting the rope? Flash.
No its not. Its a redpoint. Top roping the route negates the flash, by definition.
In reply to: In reply to: >Is it safe for me to start leading routes now that i pretty much no how or >should I have someone there to check my stuff for the fist few times? Since you're doing sport . . . you are okay just starting out. Can't really bumble a sport lead too much.
Unless you back clip and have the draws facing the wrong way, fall on the first few bolts, the rope unclips from the draws, and you hit the deck.
A 9 year old can figure out how to put on a harness, tie-in, clips draws to the bolts, and put the rope into the draws. Learning how to sport lead is about more than that. Its about rope management, knowing which direction to face your draws, knowing how not to backclip. If you haven't learned these things, then you HAVEN'T LEARNED A THING about sport leading. These concepts are pretty simple, and pretty easy to learn. Just slow down for a couple moments and learn them. The rock ain't going anywhere!
Having a more experienced partner belay you and correct your mistakes as you lead is fine. Just make sure you actually UNDERSTAND why things are right or wrong, not just correct them and keep climbing. If you understand the fundamental reasoning behind how a rope accidentally unclips itself from a draw, then knowing how to clip correctly becomes second nature.
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fitzontherocks
Nov 12, 2003, 2:25 PM
Post #28 of 32
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Registered: Jun 11, 2003
Posts: 864
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It's nice to see how many caring and concerned individuals are willing to share their copious knowledge with you. I'll only respond to the "do sport climbers aspire to trad..." question. When I started climbing about 3-4 years ago, I was happy to toprope. For a while. Then I tried sport. And I thought "it just doesn't get any better than this." And while I don't feel I've exhausted the fun out of sport, I've taken up trad. I must say, a 5.8 trad route takes more out of me mentally than a 5.11 sport route. So they're different. Sometimes I want canelloni and sometimes I want hamachi. Both are satisfying. Enjoy.
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fitzontherocks
Nov 12, 2003, 2:27 PM
Post #29 of 32
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Registered: Jun 11, 2003
Posts: 864
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It's nice to see how many caring and concerned individuals are willing to share their copious knowledge with you. I'll only respond to the "do sport climbers aspire to trad..." question. When I started climbing about 3-4 years ago, I was happy to toprope. For a while. Then I tried sport. And I thought "it just doesn't get any better than this." And while I don't feel I've exhausted the fun out of sport, I've taken up trad. I must say, a 5.8 trad route takes more out of me mentally than a 5.11 sport route. So they're different. Sometimes I want canelloni and sometimes I want hamachi. Both are satisfying. Enjoy.
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fitzontherocks
Nov 12, 2003, 2:29 PM
Post #30 of 32
(2776 views)
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Registered: Jun 11, 2003
Posts: 864
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It's nice to see how many caring and concerned individuals are willing to share their copious knowledge with you. I'll only respond to the "do sport climbers aspire to trad..." question. When I started climbing about 3-4 years ago, I was happy to toprope. For a while. Then I tried sport. And I thought "it just doesn't get any better than this." And while I don't feel I've exhausted the fun out of sport, I've taken up trad. I must say, a 5.8 trad route takes more out of me mentally than a 5.11 sport route. So they're different. Sometimes I want canelloni and sometimes I want hamachi. Both are satisfying. Enjoy.
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mattdog
Nov 12, 2003, 3:46 PM
Post #31 of 32
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Registered: Oct 1, 2003
Posts: 1523
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I will answer only a few of these, since I'm not an expert on all of them.
In reply to: Hey got my first lead this weekend and have some questions. Is it normal to still have a rush 20 minutes after you get down do you wear a helmet when you lead
Yep, first lead... actually, I still get a rush after I've finished hard climbs with long run-outs. Isn't that what makes climbing great? Isn't that why we all started climbing in the first place? Don't let people put you down just because you're excited... just don't spray about it. Congrats ;-)
In reply to: Is it ok to buy new draws from ebay of should i float the 75 bucks for ones at rei?
My draws are BD and they cost 16.99. Got em from the local gym. They work fine for me.
In reply to: For some reason i kept putting the rope through the draw backwards. The guy who was teaching me said to make sure it was set so if you fall it doesn't pull out, Is the same thin as thread it from the rock side out?
Before you go leading again, make sure you understand how NOT to back clip. Go over it again and again and again, till you get it right EVERY chance. Doing this wrong could kill you.
In reply to: Is it better to push yourself till you fall or clip in the weight the rope and rest then continue on?
Depends on the situation, but pushing yourself to your absolute limits is one of the founding principles of "sport climbing." It sounds like you need practice falling though, before you embrace this principle completely.
In reply to: What is it called if I have done the route on top rope then lead it without falling or weighting the rope?
Redpointing.
In reply to: Is it safe for me to start leading routes now that i pretty much no how or should I have someone there to check my stuff for the fist few times?
Just so we're clear here: if you're backclipping, then you do NOT know how, so, no, you're not ready. And, YES, everyone should always check EVERYONE else's stuff as frequently as possible. It's just good habit.
In reply to: Do all sport climber plan to climb trad one day?
I would like to.
In reply to: Does stepping on a rope do more damage then lets say if your rope bag is in the trunk and stuff gets piled on top of it? wouldnt this do the same amount of damage?
Stepping on a rope does damage to the rope because dirt gets ground into the interior, which is eventually abrasive. It also damages your pocketbook, because one of the basic rules of climbing is:
IF YOU STEP ON MY ROPE, YOU OWE ME A BEER.
I DON'T DRINK CHEAP BEER.
Congrats on your first lead, again... :wink:
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inflight
Nov 12, 2003, 4:44 PM
Post #32 of 32
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Registered: Mar 28, 2002
Posts: 172
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In reply to: stepping on the rope when it's on the ground presses dirt particles into the fibers....some are abrasive and will cause wear. Hopefully when it's in your ropebag there isn't any loose dirt or abrasive materials kickin around. Shake it out well before wrapping it up.
We've all learned this one way or another, but I have never heard of a rope failing due to this kind of damage. The climbnig community has accepted this and perhaps it is partially conjecture.
I understand the point and practice it . But I am more concerned about keeping the rope clean rather than the damage it theoretically causes. I think it is very hard for minute particles of dirt to slice and dice -9 mm strand of woven nylon core . If someone has facts to support this, I'd like to hear it.
I think it is interesting how everyone says the same thing about it-"don't step on it or you owe me a beer."
I know I am standing against the tide on this, but I think we should question everything and look for facts. Like I said, I don't step on the rope.
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