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j_ung
Jan 11, 2004, 3:47 PM
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In reply to: As to the first question: If your girlfriend is afraid of heights, I would suggest that you give her 3 or 4 margueritas before she ties in. This will not only take the irrational edge off her acrophobia, but could also pay off in spades later on, after the climbing session is over. :lol: Curt
Bad advice, oh inexperienced one. It is only before you move in together and after you marry each other that margueritas are needed for the desired result. :lol:
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skiorclimb
Jan 12, 2004, 4:48 PM
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Take her sport climbing, after watching people take allot of whippers she will see that the system works! You can always show her what real climbing is like after that.
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robmcc
Jan 12, 2004, 4:53 PM
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In reply to: I have learned over time, that alcohol is the conclusion, or answer, to 99% of the canundrums or situations that curt comes across.
Excellent! Like the magic 8-ball! I have just the conundrum in search of an answer, and that just might be the ticket!
Trial by stone! Er, by booze!
Rational thought is overrated anyway.
Rob
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tedc
Jan 12, 2004, 5:20 PM
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I can answer both of your questions at once.
If you don't know how to evaluate the quality of the anchor setup you described, your girlfriend should be scared to climb with you.
"Sweetie, do you think that anchor will hold us?" :?
"Hmmmm, I don't know. Let me ask the Beginners Forum at rc.com." :oops:
"That's it! I'm going shopping where it's safe." :D
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crushingfinger
Jan 12, 2004, 10:59 PM
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If she can't climb loose her and fast., 8) :D :D :D
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rvega
Jan 12, 2004, 11:45 PM
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In reply to: Does she really want to climb, or is it part of her strategy to get you married? Women can be crafty like that. It makes me wonder, if she really was interested in climbing would she care about the money you spend on gear? I had a good friend get lured down that road, I'd hate to see it happen to someone else..
Give me a freaking break...You're a TOOL!
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zachallen
Jan 13, 2004, 1:16 AM
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if there is one thing i can warn u about its the look
if ur women ever gives u the look just look like this guy :shock:
trust me it will work
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jt512
Jan 13, 2004, 1:52 AM
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In reply to: Ok so my first question is this: My girlfriend wants to climb with me but she's also kinda scared of heights. I've been trying to explain to her thats its safe and she'll be safe and she only has to go as heigh as she wants to everything. She really wants to do it but shes really hesitant. So what can i do to make her feel more comfortable about it?
Get her drunk. [Edit: I should have read the whole thread. I see that Curt has already covered this option.]
In reply to: Question two: I saw someone set up a toprope that was kinda strange. The guy put a quickdraw from one bolt to the other the put a locking biner in the middle then put the rope through, and off he went. Has anyone else ever seen someone do this? is this safe?
No. It's a big Climbing 101 no-no. If either bolt were to fail, the entire anchor would fail.
-Jay
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curt
Jan 13, 2004, 1:56 AM
Post #34 of 44
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In reply to: In reply to: As to the first question: If your girlfriend is afraid of heights, I would suggest that you give her 3 or 4 margueritas before she ties in. This will not only take the irrational edge off her acrophobia, but could also pay off in spades later on, after the climbing session is over. :lol: Curt Bad advice, oh inexperienced one. It is only before you move in together and after you marry each other that margueritas are needed for the desired result. :lol:
Hey, you're only focusing in on the fringe benefit aspect here. The PRIMARY benefit of the margueritas was to overcome the irrational (or in this case, perhaps well founded) fear of heights that is exhibited by the girlfriend. :lol:
Curt
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jt512
Jan 13, 2004, 2:04 AM
Post #35 of 44
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[duplicate]
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jt512
Jan 13, 2004, 2:07 AM
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In reply to: Make yourself an expert on anchor systems, such that you can design one that is solid, redundant, equalized, and offering no extension regardless of the situation, placements, direction of loading, weather, or state of mind. Read both of the "Climbing Anchors" books by John Long, absorb them, and practice setting up anchors utilizing everything from tree trunks to car bumpers to bolts to nuts and SLCDs to pebbles you find on the beach. Learn to improvise, to see placements, and evaluate anchor systems good, bad, and marginal, at a glance. That being said, never just glance at a fixed anchor, but inspect every inch of the gear comprising the anchor as well as the configuration of said gear. the engineering as it were, not to mention the quality of the rock, soil or other material surrounding the anchor. Thoroughly inspect your gear every time you use it.
brutus dhuuude that is like soooo oldskool dhude. :shock: i mean read not one but two books and then like practice? :twisted: thats not what they taut me at the gym. :evil: cmon dhuude lighten up just tell the guy how to set up an anchor man. :idea:
-Jay
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justdyno
Jan 13, 2004, 2:18 AM
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First off, that anchor sounds like just about the most godawul thing ive ever heard of.....not only is the sling/rope/beiner combination forming an american triangle (three contact points, causing a VERY high stress situation) but like someone else pointed out , if a bolt fails, your screwed....as for the heights...get her above an overhang or something safe and have her take some little falls, gradually get bigger until she doesnt get scared anymore...
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fadedblujeans
Jan 18, 2004, 2:47 AM
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[quote="billcoe_"]Go with 3R adam on the TR thing.
Get a real partner on the girlfriend thing. I'm serious about that.
Bill
If she's interested in climbing and willing to learn then why wouldn't she be a "real" partner. Everyone starts some where, when you were inexperianced did people refer to you as "not a real partner"? Didn't think so... give the woman a chance, and my money's on her for being a better partner than you because an inexperianced person won't always be that way, but as for you, a prick is always an prick. No room for improvment there.
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xanx
Jan 18, 2004, 4:34 AM
Post #39 of 44
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anchor is horrible. listen to RRRadam. Don't do that.
why?
this does the exact OPPOSITE of what u want an anchor to do. an anchor should have 2 salient qualities: it should distribute the forces involved, and it should be redundant in the sense that if one fails, others will hold. Most anchors accomplish the second objective rather easily - if one anchor point fails, there are always backups. But i think the first is a little harder - many anchors may have 1 anchor point bearing all the force, while other points are only used if the first fails. this anchor actually INCREASES the forces involved in a fall, AND results in total anchor failure if any 1 component fails.
Ever get ur car stuck in a mud puddle? if u have a long length of rope, u can actually pull ur car out with just ur own strength. Tie one end of the rope to the car, the other end to a tree that is far away. make the rope as tight as possible. if it is tight and long enough, u can pull the car out just by standing on the middle of the rope. another example is to have 2 people hold a rope as tight as possible - tell them to keep it straight. if u go in the middle of the rope, u can bend it with one hand. whenever u have a rope strung between 2 points and u apply a downward force in the middle, the tension forces on the two ends are greatly magnified, depending on the tension and rope length. So any downward force x on this anchor results in a force of kx, which is greater than x, on the anchor points.
now the scary part: if one bolt fails, the biner in the middle will simply slide off the other end of the draw. So if one bolt fails, the anchor fails. if the actuall draw fails, the anchor fails. if the carabiner fails, the anchor fails. lose lose situation. not good.
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rory
Jan 18, 2004, 5:01 AM
Post #40 of 44
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For your first question: Take her to an indoor gym, just to get her used to the idea of climbing and also to aquaint her to being off the ground. Teach her the basics, and stress heavily the safety practices used and WHY. Then if you take her outside, show her how you are setting things up and why. People tend to feel better about a situation if they are informed.
As for your second question: Hell no, it's not safe! Seriously, if I saw some one at the crags doing that, I would, and have, said something to that person, offered help and and some slings to that person. Stuff like that is what gets people into trouble.
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mrme
Jan 23, 2004, 4:39 AM
Post #41 of 44
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In reply to: In reply to: Make yourself an expert on anchor systems, such that you can design one that is solid, redundant, equalized, and offering no extension regardless of the situation, placements, direction of loading, weather, or state of mind. Read both of the "Climbing Anchors" books by John Long, absorb them, and practice setting up anchors utilizing everything from tree trunks to car bumpers to bolts to nuts and SLCDs to pebbles you find on the beach. Learn to improvise, to see placements, and evaluate anchor systems good, bad, and marginal, at a glance. That being said, never just glance at a fixed anchor, but inspect every inch of the gear comprising the anchor as well as the configuration of said gear. the engineering as it were, not to mention the quality of the rock, soil or other material surrounding the anchor. Thoroughly inspect your gear every time you use it. brutus dhuuude that is like soooo oldskool dhude. :shock: i mean read not one but two books and then like practice? :twisted: thats not what they taut me at the gym. :evil: cmon dhuude lighten up just tell the guy how to set up an anchor man. :idea: -Jay
so old school i learned anchors thru books and practice and i have seen guides in areas give demonstrations that suck .... i could just imagine the people in gyms' teaching (not to say all of them are bad)...you have to know something before you can judge what the best way is.
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dynoguy
Jan 23, 2004, 6:25 AM
Post #43 of 44
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1. She will eventually get used to it. Just give her time, encouragement, and plenty of patience. A girlfriend who climbs is not something to be brushed aside lightly.
2. DO NOT TRY this if it is what I think it is. If the two bolts are at the same height use two runners of equal lenght, if not use the sliding X with one longer sling.
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bukel
Feb 2, 2004, 2:45 AM
Post #44 of 44
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I think that with practice and time. Encourage her to climb until she feels ok. After several repetitions she will climb higher and then a little higer until she completes the route.
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