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nthusiastj
Oct 8, 2004, 2:12 PM
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In reply to: Good trip report and good job on the route. I don't remember any dangerous sections. The route on the whole is pretty well protected with modern gear. When I first free climbed the 'Edge" in 1979 there was a number of fixed pieces on it.
The "dangerous" part of this route for me was that I had never been on anything harder than 10a trad in Eldo up to that day. What a route to get my 11 cherry popped on!
Zozo, Derek died free soloing if I remember correctly.
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flamer
Oct 11, 2004, 2:45 AM
Post #27 of 39
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Derek Hersey soloed that. SICK How did he die? As I understand it, he was free soloing a route in Yosemite when a storm came in. I'm not sure anyone knows why he fell, but one could assume it was because of wet holds or perhaps wind.
Couple of things about Hersey.
He did solo the Naked Edge, and then a few weeks later he guided a client up it....and he fell....puts the climb in prespective I think.
He died attempting to solo the Steck-Salathe' on the Sentinal in Yosemite. I climbed this route about a 2 weeks ago. There are a couple of different theory's concerning how he fell. The one most agreed upon is that he fell off the 5.9 slab just before the "crux" pitch. Another interesting tidbit is that when The route was first free soloed by "hot" Henry Barber, he used a very long sling(clipped to a bolt) to protect this section.
Having just climbed it I can tell you that this section is very insecure and completely out of character with the rest of the route.
My partner said to me as I was setting off to lead the pitch...."hey this is where Hersey died"...all I could think was... At least he's here looking out for us now....
Somebody raise a pint for one of the great's....
josh
P.S.
Glad you had fun Jeremy.
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rufusandcompany
Aug 26, 2005, 11:12 AM
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I had a long talk with Derek, the day before he left on that tragic Valley trip. The irony of his falling from Steck/Salathe' is that his main purpose for that trip was to free solo Astroman, which he successfully did. Prior to the trip, he had been preparing for it by soloing multiple Eldo pitches. Watching those Eldo sprints, I had no doubt that he was up to the challenge of Astroman, but I asked him anyway, out of general concern as for his safety. He reminded me, in his Derek Hersey way, that he wasn't concerned about falling. He had reconciled with that reality long ago. I left it at that, and then I told him to break a leg.
I will never forget those words, because shortly after he left for The Valley, I was guiding in Eldo Canyon, when a mutual friend of Derek's and mine (Joan) walked up to me, with a solemn look, and said: "Ken, Derek fell." My jaw dropped, and I asked her if he was okay. When she told me that he was dead, there was a hollow sensation in my stomach for the rest of that day. That feeling soon pervaded the Boulder climbing community, because Derek had become a local fixture - a friendly icon to all of his peers.
After his cremation, approximately one hundred of us went to Eldorado Canyon to celebrate his life and then to spread his ashes. We all drank Sheafs, recounted stories of his exploits - both climbing and others - showed slides of his bold solo ascents, and then we said some final words to our dear friend as we let his ashes free in the place that he considered home.
Derek was one of a kind, and those of us who knew him are unlikely to ever forget him.
KC
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unabonger
Aug 29, 2005, 12:32 AM
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There is something very special about cutting your 5.10 and 5.11 teeth on those Eldo classics. What great times these are for you!
I identify with your anxiety. The first time I did it I made it clean all the way to the final handcrack, where I hanged on until I was so pumped that I had dry heaves and lost voluntary control of most motor functions for about 10 minutes. It was all worth it to see the look of horror on my partners face. Me gagging, all the great exposure, the ropes headed horizontal for a hundred feet straight out in the wind. Whew.
IVY BALDWIN RULEZ
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kalcario
Aug 29, 2005, 1:30 AM
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*The irony of his falling from Steck/Salathe' is that his main purpose for that trip was to free solo Astroman, which he successfully did.*
??? I've never heard this, surely he was capable but...
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bhilden
Aug 29, 2005, 1:51 AM
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Not to piss on the parade but.....
There was a time, obviously long forgotten in this thread, that "doing" a route meant not falling or hanging on gear. It seems like, these days, the only way you can "fail" on a climb is to fall and have your rope break and then you die. Everything else counts as an ascent.
Oh well,
Bruce
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rufusandcompany
Aug 29, 2005, 2:15 AM
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In reply to: *The irony of his falling from Steck/Salathe' is that his main purpose for that trip was to free solo Astroman, which he successfully did.* ??? I've never heard this, surely he was capable but...
Capable but what? Exactly what are you asking?
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horseonwheels
Aug 29, 2005, 2:17 AM
Post #33 of 39
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In reply to: Not to piss on the parade but..... There was a time, obviously long forgotten in this thread, that "doing" a route meant not falling or hanging on gear. It seems like, these days, the only way you can "fail" on a climb is to fall and have your rope break and then you die. Everything else counts as an ascent. Oh well, Bruce
What the hell is your problem? He explained exactly what happened on the route, he didn't try to hide the fact that he clipped to a piece for a rest on a section that a fall would potentially lead to an epic. while I don't know him, I'm sure nthusiastj would love to get on the route and lead the pitches he didn't lead and not clip to a piece. There are enough people that lie about their accomplishments, it's good to hear people tell it how it happened. If you want to argue about ethics and style...take your pick from the thousands of threads.
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rufusandcompany
Aug 29, 2005, 2:17 AM
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In reply to: *The irony of his falling from Steck/Salathe' is that his main purpose for that trip was to free solo Astroman, which he successfully did.* ??? I've never heard this, surely he was capable but...
Capable but what? Exactly what are you asking?
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bobd1953
Aug 29, 2005, 2:35 AM
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For the history buff...Jim Collins was the first person to free-solo " the Edge" I think in 1978.
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bhilden
Aug 29, 2005, 2:40 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Not to piss on the parade but..... There was a time, obviously long forgotten in this thread, that "doing" a route meant not falling or hanging on gear. It seems like, these days, the only way you can "fail" on a climb is to fall and have your rope break and then you die. Everything else counts as an ascent. Oh well, Bruce What the hell is your problem? He explained exactly what happened on the route, he didn't try to hide the fact that he clipped to a piece for a rest on a section that a fall would potentially lead to an epic. while I don't know him, I'm sure nthusiastj would love to get on the route and lead the pitches he didn't lead and not clip to a piece. There are enough people that lie about their accomplishments, it's good to hear people tell it how it happened. If you want to argue about ethics and style...take your pick from the thousands of threads.
Good point and I apologize for being unclear in whom I was referring to. I was referring to all the people who said "good job". IMHO, it wasn't a good job. The poster fell on every pitch and was clearly not up to even remotely being able to do the climb. He was very honest in his TR about what happened.
I guess I just don't get all the accolades for the poster's ascent when it is abundantly clear from the TR that he was no where near the level of ability to "do" the route.
Bruce
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kalcario
Aug 29, 2005, 3:18 AM
Post #37 of 39
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*Capable but what? Exactly what are you asking?*
Did Derek Hersey really free solo Astroman? I wouldn't doubt it, but either I never heard that or I forgot. I was living/working there then and remember that day quite well, he did Nose IAD the day before I think...
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rufusandcompany
Aug 29, 2005, 6:12 AM
Post #38 of 39
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In reply to: *Capable but what? Exactly what are you asking?* Did Derek Hersey really free solo Astroman? I wouldn't doubt it, but either I never heard that or I forgot. I was living/working there then and remember that day quite well, he did Nose IAD the day before I think...
From all sources available to me - including his roommates - he in fact did FS Astroman the day before his tragic accident.
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kalcario
Aug 29, 2005, 8:44 AM
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Been scouring the web here and among the many accomplishments of Derek there is no mention anywhere of him free soloing Astroman. So far as has been reported, just Croft and Potter have done it ropeless...again I was living there at the time and I'm pretty sure I would have remembered hearing about this. It was a good friend of mine who shall remain nameless lest I be accused of name-dropping who hiked up the talus above Camp 4 with the SAR spotter scope and located Derek when he failed to return from Sentinel.
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