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fecalquisinart
Oct 8, 2004, 5:04 AM
Post #26 of 33
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Registered: Sep 7, 2004
Posts: 188
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I think it is very immoral to do it with a dry tool. :lol:
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slobmonster
Oct 8, 2004, 5:19 AM
Post #27 of 33
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Registered: Jul 28, 2003
Posts: 1586
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In reply to: Freedom is a b----
Yes, Greg F., freedom is certainly a b----. Methinks you should edit your drunken post and come back to it Monday morning. From your profile: Onsight 5.8, eh? Sport 5.9, eh? You're not even close to what the original poster had in mind... actually, and to be a bit blunt, you're *exactly* what s/he had in mind: a neophyte hack "alpinist" who's too lazy to hike in the twenty miles required to authenitcate the experience.
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tradmanclimbs
Oct 8, 2004, 7:36 AM
Post #28 of 33
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
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Slobmiester 8^) You must be dranking too ( I know i am) kid is the origional poster. he is just so much more of an A-hole tonight than he was when he started the post that you can't recgonize him. Yo kid, train your drytooling on a choss pile and leave the established rock climbs for rock climbers. No one will think you are cool for aiding 5.10 with ice toolz :roll: they will jst think you are a tool for scratching up the rock. Don't even bother with that crap about how you are so good you don't scratch. It's bull honkey and everyone, dry toolers included knows it :roll: i got a sign right on the side of the cabin that says PLEASE REMOVE CRAMPONS BEFORE ENTERING 8^) Now i know i am a bad ass ice climber but I also know if I wear those puppys in the house I am gonna mess it all up 8^)
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pebbleman
Oct 8, 2004, 2:27 PM
Post #29 of 33
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 80
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I’m not sure what the situation in Montana is with respect to availability of terrain for dry tooling, in Colorado there is abundant rock, much of which is undeveloped and probably suitable for a dry-tool crag. I was just tightening holds on my wall and in looking at the holds, they are pretty chewed from tool use, most of the popular mixed crags I climb at show very obvious “machining” from chrome-molybdenum blades and crampons, even the granite is no match for hardened steel. If you are serious about mixed climbing you should definitely look at building a wall, even a 12’ by 8’ panel at 45 degrees would enable you to work your forearms silly, the addition of a horizontal roof panel is a big plus. Otherwise, Grivel used to make a plastic pick for their tools that you could use on rock (I suppose) in conjunction with rock shoes, somehow though I never really see the need to “train” on established rock climbs. Last year I started climbing in October and went all the way until Spring, I had had enough at that point and started going bouldering again, by the time my various mixed projects had come in I was fit enough to do them. So what mixed climbing opportunities/potential are/is there in Montana?
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kid
Oct 14, 2004, 4:15 AM
Post #30 of 33
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Registered: Apr 26, 2004
Posts: 46
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The training is for routes in Glacier Park which are mostly loose rock held together by snow and ice with layers of rock between 50 and 200ft thick. This forum has gone way beyond the original question. It is evident that drytooling at the crags is un acceptable, and I would agree. Road side training is important, and I have spent my days focusing on the long haul. Montana's access is comitting and often exceeds 20 miles round trip. Day light is a luxury we don't have. My alternative to drytooling will be webing around one of the beams on my porch and hang time on the tools. Pull ups and hang. When the ice forms I will train on the roadside mixed routes in prep for the longer routes in glacier. The class III and IV scrambles become classic mixed routes in the winter. Avalache, rock fall and wet conditions prevail. My summer routes become my winter ambitions. I beleive that the summer routes become slightly safer with the freeze over, but the days grow shorter and the weather more unpredictable. Don't take my agro rambling to serious, but please keep an open mind as there are many aspects to mountaneering and there is no right way or wrong way. Live to climb another day and you are successful. Luck or skill? On a positive note I am glad to see there was interest in the topic. ~ Greg F.
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crag
Oct 14, 2004, 11:58 AM
Post #31 of 33
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 623
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Dry Tooling can be practiced almost anywhere if you're creative enough.
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pebbleman
Oct 15, 2004, 4:20 PM
Post #32 of 33
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 80
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I would just go climbing, if you want to dry tool on a local crag in November in the sleet, go right ahead. Who's going to be there to stop you? I doubt anyone would make an issue of it, people talk tough but mostly they're full of hot air. I've been out dry tooling when people stroll by, nobody ever did or said anything. cheers...
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sarcat
Oct 15, 2004, 4:46 PM
Post #33 of 33
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 1560
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I've pulled them out a few times this summer. Went to areas that don't have routes in them. We called it pick-bouldering.
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