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heiko
Oct 5, 2006, 10:10 AM
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BTW chrtur: you might be happy to hear that Monte Bondone saw its first snow of the new season last night. :)
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chrtur
Oct 5, 2006, 10:14 AM
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In reply to: BTW chrtur: you might be happy to hear that Monte Bondone saw it's first snow of the new season last night. :)
I am a big fan of weathermaps at this point :lol: I also saw some fresh snow when climbing on saturday, almost like I could get a spoon....
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funtom
Oct 5, 2006, 12:04 PM
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[quote="heiko
"Mixed" seems to be really too much of an euphemism for the state this mountain is currently in.
It is "Mixed"- mix betveen small loose stones and big loose rocks with some sand between.
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uasunflower
Oct 5, 2006, 2:46 PM
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In reply to: Hail, oh Euro guys and gals. I was wondering who among you has ventured forth to the Eiger and done the 1938 route. Anyone? I wasn't sure how it figured in to anyone's tick list these days and whether or not it was still as fearsome as it once was. I heard the ice and snow is not as good as in years past, so it's more of a mixed route. What's the situation? I was there back in 2003 and stared up in awe day after day.
was looking at it last w-end - it was all white for once, even worse than in december last year, with first third dry...def. mixed. As adnix said, winter/spring is the good time. The 1938 route still done and interesting (if you're into real alpine climbing, meaning going up heaps of stones held togather by meer firn or icecles). Then there are many new developments there, such as almost what you would call 'sport' routes on the west shoulder (geneva pillar). They mostly are around 1000m (2/3ds of the whole face) and don't finish on top, but on the other hand they use better rock for actual technical climbing. There is even a pitch of 8a out there. Although rarely dry, it's a good summer project though.
on another note, anyone knows of good deals on ski touring equipment? Looking for skis (150cm at most), bindings (dynafit), skins, boots (size 38-39) for not too much...
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uasunflower
Oct 5, 2006, 2:56 PM
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awesome, or give them directly my email if you prefer, thx Taz!
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paolo75
Oct 5, 2006, 3:18 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: on another note, anyone knows of good deals on ski touring equipment? Looking for skis (150cm at most), bindings (dynafit), skins, boots (size 38-39) for not too much... Paolo's best friend Andrea has his own manufacturing business. Special stuff, from what I can understand, which isn't much about skis. I'll tell Paolo to drop the link in to the website.
voilą, that's the web site: http://www.lighterski.com/index.htm, the email to use to contact him is under "contatti" in the main page. Unfortunately the web site is pretty new (so almost all under construction) and only in Italian, but they are doing improvements. Their skis are used, for example, also by Simone Moro (http://www.simonemoro.com/)...so I guess are pretty good!
Let me know if you need more detailed info.
Ciauz!
P.
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chrtur
Oct 9, 2006, 9:21 AM
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:shock: No activites?
Got a cold, no climbing on saturday :cry: Then tried for my second or third time some boulders outside, cut my fingers like as with a knife, fell down from 3 meters on the ground without no pad, scratched my arm and also my knee..... What are the conclusions? I am bad boulderer or what? Or is this how it should be?
Saluti Christian
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uasunflower
Oct 9, 2006, 2:25 PM
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u're a bad boulderer :wink:
that's why you should come to Bleau at least once :idea:
ps - activities there were - i'll post pictures tomorrow to make at least chtur salivate - tete d'aval tells you smth?
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timstich
Oct 10, 2006, 3:46 AM
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Man, cool damn pictures! That limestone looks awesome. And thanks for the Eiger replies. That place just has fascinated me since I first read about it. Peering out of the Eiger Station window on the train was pretty special. I only wished I had the chance to climb there.
I had a great climbing weekend myself at Eldorado Canyon in Boulder, Colorado. I did the hardest leads on gear that I have ever attempted to date and took my very first lead falls on gear. Seriously, I had not fallen on gear up until now! Kind of stepped through a threshold I think, but it was pretty subtle. The stupid numbers aren't running the show now.
Drinking some nice hefeweizen with lemon right now. Ahhhh.
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booger
Oct 10, 2006, 7:33 AM
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Tim,
Paolo and I will be in CO next July. We'll be staying in Ft. Collins for about 4 days, then plan to drive up to WY for a week (Sinks, the Tetons). Fancy hooking up for some climbing?
UA,
Are you coming to Fonti next weekend? > let me know if you need help getting in touch with Andrea; saw that the website is only in Italian. Also, paolo plans to get my onto skis this year (god help us all :shock: ), so ... any advice in that area would be much appreciated.
See the rest of you on Friday in VDM!!!! :D :D :D
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uasunflower
Oct 10, 2006, 11:07 AM
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In reply to: UA, Are you coming to Fonti next weekend? > let me know if you need help getting in touch with Andrea; saw that the website is only in Italian. Also, paolo plans to get my onto skis this year (god help us all :shock: ), so ... any advice in that area would be much appreciated. See the rest of you on Friday in VDM!!!! :D :D :D
not sure yet about fonti.
andrea - sure, 'd like to know the weight per ski + price, does he do bindings/shoes or skis only?
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paolo75
Oct 10, 2006, 11:30 AM
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awesome last pitch, huh? :D
getting a little bit more of commitment you should do the route "due serpenti" and "Nemesi" as well as the "Il grande fratello ci guarda".
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timstich
Oct 10, 2006, 12:04 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Drinking some nice hefeweizen with lemon right now. Ahhhh. Of course I have to ask the question: which brand?
It's a Portland, Oregon microbrew it appears. Widmer Brothers.
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heiko
Oct 10, 2006, 12:06 PM
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In reply to: awesome last pitch, huh? :D getting a little bit more of commitment you should do the route "due serpenti" and "Nemesi" as well as the "Il grande fratello ci guarda".
a little bit more commitment??? :shock:
I don't like you anymore. :evil:
Think about your own commitment next weekend when you get your skinny little butt stuck in the chimney on Kundalini! GRRRRRR. :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
;)
Anyway, I watched a team curse up "Due Serpenti" next to us, haha... I think, 6c (6b obbl.) is not on my list for this season, although all the routes on Monte Colt look awesome.
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timstich
Oct 10, 2006, 12:07 PM
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In reply to: Tim, Paolo and I will be in CO next July. We'll be staying in Ft. Collins for about 4 days, then plan to drive up to WY for a week (Sinks, the Tetons). Fancy hooking up for some climbing?
You bet! Or as my dad used to say when he lived in Texas as a transplant from New Orleans, "You bet your boots." Have you guys been before? I'll definitely be around.
UA, are you digging those long, multi-pitch sport routes? I used to go down to Potrero Chico, Mexico several times a year. That was my first taste of that kind of climb and I love it. It's amazing to cover so much rock so fast.
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booger
Oct 10, 2006, 12:55 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Tim, Paolo and I will be in CO next July. We'll be staying in Ft. Collins for about 4 days, then plan to drive up to WY for a week (Sinks, the Tetons). Fancy hooking up for some climbing? You bet! Or as my dad used to say when he lived in Texas as a transplant from New Orleans, "You bet your boots." Have you guys been before? I'll definitely be around.
I've been lots of times, but only climbed up the canyons and in Sinks. Paolo made his only US trip 2 years ago (Yosemite, of course). I'd really like to try El Dorado and Maple this time... we don't mind the driving! Anyway, It'd be awesome if you and Paolo could partner up (so I can sneak off for my fly-fishing fix) a couple of days! ;-)
So- Cool, I'll let you know when we've got dates, etc.!! ;-)
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uasunflower
Oct 10, 2006, 12:59 PM
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In reply to: UA, are you digging those long, multi-pitch sport routes? I used to go down to Potrero Chico, Mexico several times a year. That was my first taste of that kind of climb and I love it. It's amazing to cover so much rock so fast.
yup, long engaged multipitches - sport or trad, rock or ice - are my thing. Getting some air under the tail is what it's about. Is portrero mostly bolted? Never been there, but want to one day. So-o-o-o when are you coming to europe to do the eiger? Looks like i'm partnerless again :roll:
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paolo75
Oct 10, 2006, 1:56 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: awesome last pitch, huh? :D getting a little bit more of commitment you should do the route "due serpenti" and "Nemesi" as well as the "Il grande fratello ci guarda". a little bit more commitment??? :shock: I don't like you anymore. :evil: Think about your own commitment next weekend when you get your skinny little butt stuck in the chimney on Kundalini! GRRRRRR. :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: ;) Anyway, I watched a team curse up "Due Serpenti" next to us, haha... I think, 6c (6b obbl.) is not on my list for this season, although all the routes on Monte Colt look awesome.
ok, nevermind.
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timstich
Oct 10, 2006, 2:01 PM
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In reply to: Anyway, It'd be awesome if you and Paolo could partner up (so I can sneak off for my fly-fishing fix) a couple of days! ;-) So- Cool, I'll let you know when we've got dates, etc.!! ;-)
I have some fly fishing friends, too. So that's easy to set up. Only ten months away. :lol:
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timstich
Oct 10, 2006, 2:08 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: UA, are you digging those long, multi-pitch sport routes? I used to go down to Potrero Chico, Mexico several times a year. That was my first taste of that kind of climb and I love it. It's amazing to cover so much rock so fast. yup, long engaged multipitches - sport or trad, rock or ice - are my thing. Getting some air under the tail is what it's about. Is portrero mostly bolted? Never been there, but want to one day. So-o-o-o when are you coming to europe to do the eiger? Looks like i'm partnerless again :roll:
You're partnerless? Gah! Wish we were on closer land masses. And when I come to Europe it will be to go to either Chamonix or the Dolomites. The Eiger is a bit far off in the future! Besides, you would rather drink Italian wine than...er...whatever they have in Switzerland. Plus the food is better and you can wave your hands in the air like a crazy person and no one thinks anything of it.
Potrero Chico is almost entirely bolted. Almost no one climbs the trad routes there, as they are quite loose many times and have fearsome reputations. The longest route there is Time Wave Zero with over 25 pitches I believe. Lots of 5-7 pitch routes that are excellent.
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