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asandh
Jul 22, 2005, 12:14 AM
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:)
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bvb
Jul 22, 2005, 1:47 AM
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In reply to: I dunno, a couple pages back someone mentioned that hard started at 5.12.
yeah art, this brings up a pretty interesting point, and underscores one of the great mysto aspects of offwidths. they can be damn hard to grade.
for example, cream is rated 5.11a. but i've talked to plenty of offwidth masters who'll tell you that it's hard. really, really fucking hard. dan mickyD, and his wife sue for that matter, solo and downclimb generator crack for amusement. they both huck laps on bad ass momma for laughs. basically, either one of them, in their prime, could and did climb every offwidth pitch in the valley. but when you ask 'em what really strung them out, they go to that mid-70's shit that's too wide to stack and too narrow to crawl into.
for some reason, a lot of routes you can stack and get no-hands knee rests on (leavittation size) get 5.12 ratings, where slightly overhanging chicken wing cracks like basket case and cream and jam session get 5.10 or 5.11, but are noticably more difficult and get noticably fewer ascents.
and just imagine how the grades would shift back around if people had to go back to tube chocks and tied-off bongs...a lot of the early hard offwidths were done nearly solo, because the pro was so useless...sky in the valley is a good example. didn't take pro well at all, was 5.11c when the grade was fairly new, and was 5" before stacking came along...the few, very few, climbers who tried it just hail-mary liebacked the sucker, hoping they had the guns to hang in there and fiddle in a bong looped with 1" webbing.
off widths. just say YEAH.
let us now praise chuck pratt.
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murf
Jul 22, 2005, 1:53 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Speaking of the Needles, how about Gorilla Warfare? How about it, indeed? It looks like hell, the pro is hell, and I've only ever met one person who onsighted it. If I can sack up to it, I will jump into Gorilla Warfare this season, but that is a huge ''if''. I have it on good authority that it's a huge sandbag at 5.10+!
I onsited it Tim, and it is a grunt, but not impossible by any means. I only had a #4 Camelot at the time, and it was the only piece I used in that section ( early too ).
Murf
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vivalargo
Jul 22, 2005, 3:25 AM
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Chopper Flake and the almost-never done Left Side of the Slack are 2 more. Also, Leverage, if you want to hike. Also, Bad Ass Momma is not bad if you can get your knee in it, or stack it, but for big dudes who arm bar the whole thing, it's horrendous. Cram is more of a fittness thing, and Stepping Out only has one hard move--but a fair ways out. Left Side of the Hourglass has some exciting bits. And if you've never done Doom, do it.
JL
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cgranite
Jul 22, 2005, 5:55 AM
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In reply to: Chopper Flake and the almost-never done Left Side of the Slack are 2 more. Also, Leverage, if you want to hike. Also, Bad Ass Momma is not bad if you can get your knee in it, or stack it, but for big dudes who arm bar the whole thing, it's horrendous. Cram is more of a fittness thing, and Stepping Out only has one hard move--but a fair ways out. Left Side of the Hourglass has some exciting bits. And if you've never done Doom, do it. JL
I can't find some of those in my guide.
Leverage sounds cool, but how do you get to it and what's it like.
You've made Doom very appealing too, please tell.
I also remember someone mentioning Viva Gordita being at the base of lower brother, but between which routes. Also, what are it's characteristics, flake, splitter, ect.?
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clintcummins
Jul 22, 2005, 8:52 PM
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cgranite keeps asking for info/stories on Excalibur, so I took the liberty of typing in a brief extract from Steve Schneider's article in Climbing #140. It's best to read the full article and check out the awesome photos, but the extract may be helpful to get started with:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/excal.htm
Have fun,
Clint Cummins
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btreanor
Jul 22, 2005, 9:51 PM
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Joshua Tree, Steve Canyon, Comfortably Numb 5.11+
I topped out on this thing covered in blood, sweat and tears…
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cgranite
Jul 25, 2005, 12:51 AM
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"Emotional Rescue" sounds pretty amazing. Sandbagged, Thanks for the post,...you got my hands sweating. I wish Jtree season were closer.
Does California have anymore of that kind of action?
clintcummins, Thanks for the long waited post on "Excalibur".
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norushnomore
Jul 27, 2005, 9:39 PM
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I have one too, unclimbed at that, anybody who want to bag a first ascent is welcome
Route a on the pic, about 40' flaring vertical and a bit overhanging
(pic angle is a bit off)
http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com/Images/russianwall/BearTrapAndSickSquirrel.jpg
http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com/Content%20Pages/New_Routes_Page.htm#secondquarry
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studs
Sep 14, 2005, 10:34 PM
Post #60 of 71
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Funny that sandbagged found Emotional Rescue not that bad.When the Fish and I did the second ascent, the list of failures was extensive.Still, I agree .Its not that bad.
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studs
Oct 18, 2005, 8:17 PM
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So whos sent Emotional Rescue.That would be a good solo for Reardon.Sorta like More Monky than Funky but Funkier.Oh and he could get the beta from Sandbagged.
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davidji
Oct 18, 2005, 8:40 PM
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In reply to: So whos sent Emotional Rescue.That would be a good solo for Reardon.Sorta like More Monky than Funky but Funkier.Oh and he could get the beta from Sandbagged. |
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studs
Oct 19, 2005, 1:13 AM
Post #63 of 71
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Sounds like a Fish story.I aint Buyin it.Cut loose with some names.
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jdouble
Oct 19, 2005, 2:17 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: So whos sent Emotional Rescue.That would be a good solo for Reardon.Sorta like More Monky than Funky but Funkier.Oh and he could get the beta from Sandbagged. The only guy I've talked to who sent it said he used a head/hand stack. Fun. Where can I get a Stealth rubber mask?
The Gimp has one I think.
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426
Jan 21, 2006, 10:39 PM
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No hardcore list is replete without mention of the Socal flared roof OW, "Animal Magnetism". You can see Skip Guerin windmilling around in the old'scool movie "On The Rocks" 11e?
Also, add "Vice Principal's Office" in Woodson. I've never even done "Big Grunt" (easy 10 OW) in Woodson, so I'm no one to speak for either route...
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bvb
Jan 21, 2006, 10:56 PM
Post #66 of 71
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the vp's office at woodson starts with wide fists, then gradually narrows down to tight hands. there's no OW on it at all. but it's still worth the hike...
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426
Jan 21, 2006, 11:08 PM
Post #67 of 71
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In reply to: the vp's office at woodson starts with wide fists, then gradually narrows down to tight hands. there's no OW on it at all. but it's still worth the hike...
Do you know who's done Animal Magnetism? Leavitt (FA iirc), Guerin (?)
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jaybro
Jan 22, 2006, 12:21 AM
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'Wide world of Sport" is on Balch Camp flake, patterson bluff east, near the town of Balch camp, ~70 miles east of Fresno. the buttress is labeled in one of the Cailfornia Gazeteers.
the first pitch is the crux, 163' continous, mostly bolt protected (eleven? bolts-cams weren't big enough in those days) the second pitch is ~ 75' 5.11+.
The crack to the left is The PAssionate life 5.11, no bolts. Hanging belay on big cams. there is also a good chimney just left of the flake proper, 'A side of Wide' 5.10+' 'Pay at the pump' is the pobvious roof by the road with two bolts on top.
about ten years ago we cut a trail to the base of the flake. Three out of the four of us got massive poison oak infestations. The trail is probably overgrown by now. The alternative is to hike to the top of the bluff on an obvious old access trail. (goes to the giant whatever it is reflecator visible from the road) Then Rap rap 450' (60 m ropes mandatory) to a tyrolean traverse to the top of the flake rap the route.
We found the locals to be very friendly and supportive in the pg&E company town of Balch camp. They let us recharge bosch batteries in the city park, and even turned on the flood lights in the picnic are for us.
Lots more to do in that area.
As far as the Ca list goes I think it's been covered above take, bvb's list and add the ohers. You will need more than one big peice for Death crack even if you sink so low as to lieback it ;)
excalibur pitches are great, though I didn't flash the first one.
Rumor of good wide climbing on Mt Chamberlin.
Jim-Animal mag is now on private land but has been (atttempted/climbed(?)) clandestinely a few times in the last decade (not me)
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jaybro
Jan 22, 2006, 12:27 AM
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Studs, did YOu, ever do Emotional Rescue?
If not, fly back now, I'll meet you.
-just reread thread, oops!
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426
Jan 22, 2006, 6:09 PM
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Hey Jaybro,what's been the hardest/most awkward for you in CA?
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studs
Feb 2, 2006, 10:11 AM
Post #71 of 71
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Animal Magnetism is in CO. not CA. Emotional Rescue 2nd ascent with the Fish.
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