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marc801


Aug 31, 2012, 11:25 PM
Post #51 of 51 (1959 views)
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
Re: [BillyCrook] Connecting webbing to top rope anchor [In reply to]
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BillyCrook wrote:
marc801 wrote:
[image]http://www.climbing.co.za/images/The-Dude-anchors-Before.jpg[/image]
Is not the one above also rotten, because it's loading one biner in three directions, and there's only a single biner holding the rope?

Every biner I've seen has said only two directions. There may be some out there to take multidirectional loading, but this looks like a vanilla standard locker.
You have a misunderstanding of triaxial loading. That anchor is not what is meant by loading in three directions, since the chains effectively form a single point and the load is along the major axis. Triaxial loading is when the forces occur along both the major axis and the minor axis of the biner. That's why it's sometimes referred to as cross-loading.

For a top rope anchor, while personally I'd probably put a biner on each chain, a single locking biner is adequate although maybe not best practice (but I'd also check that it's still locked after each ascent).

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