|
fng
Aug 25, 2005, 5:49 PM
Post #101 of 138
(16879 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2003
Posts: 85
|
I placed placed the first piece of pro,a mid size trango brassie, 15-20 ft above the ledge just off the ground on 'the nut cracker' in the valley. I was prob 10' above it when my hand slipped out of that greasy crack while trying to place a second piece. I watched that nut the whole time I was falling to see if it would hold and it did. I still use that little life saver.
|
|
|
|
|
renohandjams
Aug 30, 2005, 4:39 PM
Post #102 of 138
(16879 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2005
Posts: 616
|
Number 2 camalot on a 20 footer, didn't budge. I need to fall a lot more too or else I'm going to stay stuck in the same trad grade.
|
|
|
|
|
shu-up
Deleted
Aug 30, 2005, 6:52 PM
Post #103 of 138
(16879 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
Took a 20 footer onto a #9 Black Diamond wire at Red Rocks.
The chalked hand hold broke and sent me dooooown onto this piece.
Took some rock fall to the shin, cut down to the bone!
Spooked the party on Y2K that were next to us.
At least it was the last day of a 5 day trip to Red Rocks.
|
|
|
|
|
mischief8
Aug 30, 2005, 7:07 PM
Post #104 of 138
(16879 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 17, 2004
Posts: 416
|
First fall on trad happened this summer
#3 BD cam fell about 15' held me like a champ
Daniela
|
|
|
|
|
devkrev
Aug 30, 2005, 7:14 PM
Post #105 of 138
(16879 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933
|
When this thread first started I had nothing to say, but since that I have fallen on an orange alien, an old manky pin, and a 15 footer onto a #5 and #7 stopper
I feel like part of the club now :-)
later
dev
|
|
|
|
|
backclipped
Aug 30, 2005, 7:34 PM
Post #106 of 138
(16879 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 25, 2005
Posts: 137
|
I lost my balance and took a wee little 12-15 footer on Gruff in the Lower Gorge at Smith. That beautiful #1 Camalot dug in like a champ. Not sure why I fell. I must have felt that it was time to test the gear out.
|
|
|
|
|
chromwells_head
Aug 30, 2005, 7:57 PM
Post #107 of 138
(16879 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2005
Posts: 54
|
took a 20 footer on to a .5 tri cam bent the axle LONG LIVE PINKY
|
|
|
|
|
brad84
Aug 30, 2005, 7:59 PM
Post #108 of 138
(16879 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 18, 2004
Posts: 149
|
my most recent was a 30footer on a blue alien. no worries...
other than that ive taken tons of falls, mostly on small wallnuts (sizes 1-3), a few on the mid-size BD micronuts. all up to ~30'.
a biggish one on a grey alien.
ive never had a piece pull or fail otherwise in somewhere around...30 lead falls (eh, that could be on the low end, but whos counting?). all trad.
place it well and focus on the movement kids. err hopefully upward movement.
be safe.
|
|
|
|
|
the_climber
Aug 21, 2010, 5:09 PM
Post #109 of 138
(7397 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
|
Thread Resurrection.....
Medium sized Cassin Captain Hook placed in a shallow positive pocket; slung with 1" Tubular webbing, bartacked. In all honestly the fall should have been caught by the pink tricam 5 feet below... Proof again the Eddy provides a dynamic belay, and sometimes anything is better than nothing.
And yes I'm bored at work on a Saturday
|
|
|
|
|
Rudmin
Aug 21, 2010, 5:41 PM
Post #110 of 138
(7373 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2009
Posts: 606
|
10 feet on a #10 OP stopper. And 5 feet on a 0.5 Tricam. Both held like a champ.
|
|
|
|
|
uni_jim
Aug 21, 2010, 5:41 PM
Post #111 of 138
(7373 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 27, 2008
Posts: 429
|
the_climber wrote: Thread Resurrection..... Medium sized Cassin Captain Hook placed in a shallow positive pocket; slung with 1" Tubular webbing, bartacked. In all honestly the fall should have been caught by the pink tricam 5 feet below... Proof again the Eddy provides a dynamic belay, and sometimes anything is better than nothing. And yes I'm bored at work on a Saturday
good work, good sir! that's how we do it in the chossies!
|
|
|
|
|
chilli
Aug 21, 2010, 7:19 PM
Post #112 of 138
(7357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2007
Posts: 401
|
a good ten+ ft to the BD#2 that blew out the rock around it before the BD#3 lower down caught. fall totaled around 30ft. plus lots of pebbles on the helmet.
no big deal just got moving again.
all happened on relatively straightforward (aside from some freeze-fractured rock) 5.8 terrain {upon revisiting, it turned out we were on the 5.10 next to the intended 5.8, but still wasn't a bad route}. just got slack in judgment, & hand slipped.
live&learn
no paperweights yet.
(This post was edited by chilli on Sep 1, 2011, 9:32 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
shimanilami
Aug 21, 2010, 9:35 PM
Post #113 of 138
(7343 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
|
15' on a knot tied in a sling, placed as a chock. Bomber.
|
|
|
|
|
ensonik
Aug 21, 2010, 10:03 PM
Post #114 of 138
(7334 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2009
Posts: 134
|
First fall on gear today. BD #2, about 10 feet. Held like a champ.
|
|
|
|
|
swoopee
Aug 22, 2010, 4:39 PM
Post #115 of 138
(7300 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 560
|
shimanilami wrote: 15' on a knot tied in a sling, placed as a chock. Bomber.
So a knotted sling will actually hold a fall? That is good news.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Aug 22, 2010, 5:42 PM
Post #116 of 138
(7284 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
ensonik wrote: First fall on gear today. BD #2, about 10 feet. Held like a champ.
At the Gunks?
|
|
|
|
|
xtrmecat
Aug 22, 2010, 5:59 PM
Post #117 of 138
(7280 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 548
|
I got in the neighborhood of 40 some feet of air time held by a .25 or .4 camalot (I honestly don't remember which it was)on pitch 5 of T-Trip in late May. A tapered nut pulled when I was getting fully committed to it, and tore the camhook I was on and bent it beyond repair, had a tied off fixed pin without an eye below that that just parted the tie off, and the nut below that pulled leaving an aluminum smear in the placement. That and I was backcleaning some and my belayer was 50 pounds lighter than me plus rack so he went to the end of his tie in, all in all I thought the camalot placement wasn't that solid, but it held, cleaned easily. I have a pic of jugging back to the camalot somewhere in my stuff, oh yeah, here it is.
It seemed like something wasn't right, and I was comprehending the fact that speed had increased to make the wind going by my ears loud, and nothing seemed to slow me down, and then the rope came taught and cushed in. Nice and soft, clean. Doesn't get any safer than that, and yes a huge wahooo came out of me shortly after. Cam is still in perfect working order.
Bob
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Aug 22, 2010, 6:22 PM
Post #118 of 138
(7275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
That is a crazy fall and awesome picture. I can't believe you only fell forty ripping that many pieces.
|
|
|
|
|
ensonik
Aug 22, 2010, 7:21 PM
Post #119 of 138
(7261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2009
Posts: 134
|
johnwesely wrote: ensonik wrote: First fall on gear today. BD #2, about 10 feet. Held like a champ. At the Gunks?
Unfortunately not. Going back for a 4th and last time at the end of this week.
It was while laybacking this about mid-way through:
Had done it before, but this time the feet just didn't stick.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Aug 22, 2010, 8:15 PM
Post #120 of 138
(7245 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
I've taken many falls. If memory serves, these are the pieces that have caught at least one fall.
blue, green, yellow, red and purple aliens
blue, yellow, orange, and red TCU
purple, green, red, gold, and blue camalot
various nuts (not sure of sizes)
Most of my falls have been less than 15-18 feet. I have taken a few between 20-25. My longest one was around 25 and I was caught by a blue alien. I took about a 15 footer last weekend with a green alien catching me.
I have had one piece pull in a fall (blue alien) and was caught by the next piece (green camalot). I was very skeptical of the alien so was not too surprised when it pulled, but was still scary.
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
TarHeelEMT
Aug 23, 2010, 2:26 AM
Post #121 of 138
(7208 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 20, 2009
Posts: 724
|
A red TCU caught my first fall.
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Aug 23, 2010, 3:40 AM
Post #122 of 138
(7199 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
If you're not falling, you're not climbing. I fall often, and have tested much of my gear....
Last weekend my buddy lobbed about 25' off of Ankles Away onto my 00 TCU. That was rather memorable. Especially since he had to head back up and try the moves again over the same piece.
In Ireland climbing at a Quarry near Dublin I set a 0 TCU in a wet crack 40' off the deck. I promptly slipped off above it, and it held. I was stoked since it was my only piece in at that point!
I took a nice 40' fall in Malaysia and had a 0.5 camalot slide about 8" out of the crack, finally stopping me with only two lobes. Yikes!
On my first trip up Romantic Warrior I blew the final move of the first 12a pitch. I ripped a #2 TCU and a piton finally stopping on another piton below. The fall was at least 25', probably longer.
One of the most memorable falls I've had was when I ripped a #3 Metolius on Kryptonite Crack in Arapiles. It was my only piece in. For some reason, my belayer had decided to wrap the rope around her hand "just in case" and kept me off the deck. Her hand recovered eventually. Best belayer I've ever had...
On another trip up Romantic Warrior on the last 12a pitch I fell, had my foot go between 2 brassies and the rope hooked behind my knee. I ended up hanging upside down in the corner with rope going up from the belayer to a #4 brassie, down behind my knee, up to a #2 brassie, and then down to my harness. My foot was pointed down and was pinned against the wall by my body. It was classic trying to get out of that one! If my leg wasn't semi-equalizing the two pieces I could have said a #2 brassie held my fall...
It's been fun.... 
Josh
(This post was edited by bandycoot on Aug 23, 2010, 3:43 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Aug 23, 2010, 3:58 AM
Post #123 of 138
(7190 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
Hmm, most recently it was a #3 PeeNut and a green alien.
Biggest gear fall was on a runner girth hitched through a hole, 25 feet or so. Didn't see it coming. I had a gobie on my hand the size of a silver dollar, so I taped up that day. That hand was jammed in the crack and I was pulling a cam off my harness. I felt my hand start to slide and pow, I was out of there.
My tape had ripped the scab off my gobie and the blood was flowing freely and lubed that jam.
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Aug 23, 2010, 4:58 AM
Post #124 of 138
(7177 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
Bob, is that one of Tom Evans pics that he took when you did that route?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
