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top rope anchors
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jt512


Jan 12, 2007, 7:52 AM
Post #26 of 27 (333 views)
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [TBlake84] top rope anchors [In reply to]
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TBlake84 wrote:
Wait, you guys are talking about using quickdraws (non-locking by definition) to extend the bolts/anchors. How is this safe? I would never use anything but locking biners in my TR anchors.

If I need to extend the bolts, I make a "quickdraw" with a runner and two locking D's then attach my 7mm cordelette through them with a single locking D to run the rope through.

Is this overkill?

Yes and no. You have your priorities dangerously reversed. You usually don't need lockers for the "quickdraws." Since you have independent arms going to each of two bolts you have redundancy. On the other hand, the rope should always be run through two biners. Don't trust a single locking biner for your master anchor point. This is the most important point in the anchor. It MUST be redundant.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jan 12, 2007, 7:53 AM)


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Jan 12, 2007, 5:12 PM
Post #27 of 27 (307 views)
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Registered: Jun 18, 2004
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Re: [jt512] top rope anchors [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
Don't trust a single locking biner for your master anchor point. This is the most important point in the anchor. It MUST be redundant.
I was taught this exact thing. When I started setting my own TR anchors I went out and bought a pair of steel lockers (since weight isn't really an issue with TR) to use just for the master point. Besides being ridiculously strong (65kN if I remember!) they'll wear a lot better than aluminum.

-Joe

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