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majoringinclimbing
Jun 29, 2005, 3:59 AM
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First let me say that this is not an actual situation but more a theoretical one!! So say you are a boulderer in Lincoln Nebraska and the only rock you have is a 5 and a half foot quartzite monument, but you find a rock quarry who has a really large boulder that would be perfect so you get it transported to somewhere you can use it. Now the only problem is there are absolutely no holds on it not a crimp, sloper, pinch, mono, crack etc. Not even "Sharma" could get up it and you are at best a V6 climber. THE QUESTION: Would you chip holds into it to make it usable???!!!! GO!!!!!
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phaedrus
Jun 29, 2005, 4:01 AM
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No way. No holds, don't climb it. Chipping is never an option, imo.
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from_the_gym
Jun 29, 2005, 4:03 AM
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Why are we moving a huge boulder that already has zero possible routes? If it is in a quarry and is the product of blasting, then sure, chip it, establish some lines. I still dont know why you would want to transport it.
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majoringinclimbing
Jun 29, 2005, 4:05 AM
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remember if you did not save it then it ends up rubble and it never gets touched anyway!
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majoringinclimbing
Jun 29, 2005, 4:06 AM
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Because there is no climbing in Nebraska!
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jcasper
Jun 29, 2005, 4:13 AM
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.. chipping holds on an unnatural, unclimbable, already chopped up, otherwise useless boulder? This seems a whole world different then chipping holds on natural rock. What is the difference, "ethically", between that and putting plastic holds on a piece of wood. With the boulder it is more like real rock climbing, with the plastic holds it is reconfigurable, pros and cons of each, so why not chip holds if you want. Why not chip holds into your chimney or brick house? who cares? If it gives you something to climb, I say go for it.
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mattmax45
Jun 29, 2005, 4:29 AM
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If this boulder is from the sand and gravel pits or quarrey its now been deemed "Man Modified", so chip, drill, or blast the FUC--R into your masterpiece of cranking fury.
Later bro,
Matt.
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dingus
Jun 29, 2005, 5:05 AM
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How much does a tall latte go for in Lincoln Nebraska anyway?
DMT
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rickrock77
Jun 29, 2005, 1:02 PM
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Weird question....
I understand the chipping debate..
No I would not chip natural rock such as rock which is part of a mountain range or natural occurance.
At a quarry, I would only chip a rock, if the climbers who generally climbed all agreed there was a good reason to do this.
Yes if I had my own boulder problem I would chip it, if it had nothing.
Strange way to put the question.
What is the point to mentioning a monument?
Can you come clean with what you are really asking besides what you actually wrote? Seems to me there is more here than a one off question..
Oh and how about a picture of the rock you are planning on getting from the quarry. Maybe we could have a big brainstorm about where and what to chip, kind of like a "DIY" boulder boulder problem..
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overlord
Jun 29, 2005, 1:19 PM
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if its at a quarry and the product of blasting and such id chip.
but never id never chip if its a natural formation.
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jcshaggy
Jun 29, 2005, 1:48 PM
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Damn-does anybody know how to put a pic from your pc to a thread?
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j_ung
Jun 29, 2005, 1:51 PM
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You wouldn't be doing anything to that stone that's any worse than what's been done to every other piece of rock that's been pulled from that quarry. Why not sculpt a tiny El Cap to scale? Think of it... grade VI routes in boulder problem form...
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climbia
Jun 29, 2005, 2:12 PM
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chip it, blast it. your just making a boulder problem out of a quarry rock. I like the idea, I was going to use concrete and climbing holds. flatlanders we just aint right.
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villageidiot
Jun 29, 2005, 2:34 PM
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Michelangelo already messed up enough good routes, don't join his kind.
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skinnyclimber
Jun 29, 2005, 2:51 PM
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Sure, go ahead and chip it. Its essntially man made at this point anyway.
By the way, how do you go about getting a boulder "transported" and how much does it cost... I would love to take a boulder from some quarry and put it in my parrents backyard or something!
Robin
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grayhghost
Jun 29, 2005, 2:52 PM
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great, now I can chip Sphinx Crack down to a solid 5.10b!
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brolloks
Jun 29, 2005, 2:54 PM
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Registered: May 25, 2004
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Did you pay for it? Then it's your boulder - chip away, it's the American way ! It's "man made" anyway, making the argument of outdoor chipping completely irrelevant - which I am totally against, by the way.
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itakealot
Jun 29, 2005, 3:13 PM
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wouldn't it be cheaper to convert your garage into a mini-gym? Imagine the possibilities like a route going across the ceiling.
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cruxmonger
Jun 29, 2005, 3:22 PM
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I guess I just can't relate....I wouldn't even theoretically live in Lincoln, NE.....
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killclimbz
Jun 29, 2005, 3:27 PM
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Registered: May 6, 2000
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Sounds like to me you own it. Therefore you can do what ever you want with it.
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bandidopeco
Jun 29, 2005, 3:40 PM
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There was a similar dilemma near where my home in california is. At Donner summit there's a wall called the Road Cut where several chipped and drilled routes were placed. The reasoning being that since the walls were created by blasting the natural rock to make way for the road they were fair game. Is this OK? maybe. While ethically not the highest standard it is interesting having finger pockets in granite.
I wouldn't mind chipping a quarried boulder, especially in Nebraska. go for it
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straightedge
Jun 29, 2005, 4:39 PM
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First, and a bit off topic, far more rewarding in the long run, terms of climbing, to just build a wall - add/remove holds, devise new problems, etc. - and it would be cheaper than transporting a massive boulder.
Second, chipping is not a good idea period. Many posts in this thread argue that since the hypothetical boulder was quarried, artificially created, then artificially creating holds (chipping, sculpting, however nice you'd like to make it sound) is justified. A problem arises with this argument when you consider the many quarries, temporarily and permanently abandoned, that are presently climbing areas. (Old quarries that are now climbing areas are all over, e.g Portland, OR, Boise, ID, all over the eastern US, and many more). In the above argument, chipping holds is okay at these areas since these 'crags' were artificially created to begin with. Not a good position to defend. I'm sure the locals who climb at abandoned quarries would have something to say to someone who started chipping on the local crag.
Lastly, accepting chipping at a quarry will lead to some ethically-challenged, ego-driven climber to chip elsewhere, on stone that was not quarried.
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bustloose
Jun 29, 2005, 4:49 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2003
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this is sad. to all who said 'NO, DEAR GOD CHIPPING IS EVIL'... think, breathe, think again perhaps. take the issue in the context it was presented.
if i had the funds to buy a 20 foot high boulder and put it in my backyard, and it was blank...? damn right i would create me some bouldering problems...
we're not talking about chipping in the conventional sense here, we're talking about owning something and playing with it.
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