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fracture
Sep 29, 2005, 4:25 AM
Post #26 of 40
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In reply to: I always wondered this: Burke says he spent something like 236 days working on the nose, then when he went for the send, it rained so he had to TR one of the key crux pitches...if he already spent 236 days, why not spend 3 more and do the route right?
There's an interesting article here.
In reply to: Over the 12 days it took for the ground-to-summit free ascent, conditions were terrible. About a fifth of the route 700 feet of climbing) was dripping wet. At The Great Roof, one of the wettest pitches, Burk, exhausted, but with no time for an overnight rest, made do with a toprope ascent after his father (watching from the meadow below) alerted him by cell phone to a large impending storm.
Sounds like there were a couple factors. According to that article he was apparently planning to go back to try to climb it in a single day as well, so perhaps he was planning to lead it then. And after 261 days, perhaps the idea of going back didn't sound so fun anymore...
And, of course, what counts as "doing the route right" is pretty debatable. Both of them used man-made holds, and did the route "after work". Many "accepted" wall FFA's are done out of order, or after rapping in from the top to get to wherever they left off, or with massive amounts pre-placed gear or lots of fixed ropes. One could argue that all of that isn't "doing it right", either. But whether people like the style he did it in or not, he did climb it free...
Man, this armchair is comfortable. 8^)
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fracture
Sep 29, 2005, 4:31 AM
Post #27 of 40
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In reply to: In reply to: ps top-roping is for girls. That's why a girl did it on lead and a dude had to TR it?
Hahah. Awesome.
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estwing
Sep 29, 2005, 6:00 AM
Post #28 of 40
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The chipped holds make up the "jardine traverse" they are the free variation to the 13th pitch. Go to supertopo.com to get a free topo of the nose and see this section.
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golsen
Sep 29, 2005, 9:36 PM
Post #29 of 40
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Scott Burke did the second free ascent. He also said he thought Changing Corners (which he did lead) was more like 14b for his body-type. While this is technically true- Burke only freed the Great Roof on top rope ... TR is still a free ascent. Yet people act like the Great Roof is unrepeated: it's not.
fracture, as hard as you spray about your beliefs on TRing, why dont you go send it to dispel any rumours?
TR is TR. It is impressive but not the same. Freeing the Nose in a day is IMPRESSIVE. While Burkes attempts are admirable for the tenacity, poor dude didnt quite succeed.
Waitin for you Rockprodigy. Only 5 pitches harder than 5.11. Are your fingers small annd arms long? Seems like that might help....
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estwing
Sep 29, 2005, 9:43 PM
Post #30 of 40
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Only 5 pitches harder than 11, long arms, small fingers, free nose here I come!
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g-funk
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Sep 29, 2005, 9:49 PM
Post #31 of 40
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In reply to: In reply to: So it is common knowledge that in 93 Lynn Hill made the first free ascent of the NOSE on EL Cap... Invalid dab Apparantly, Lynn failed to do the required sit-start to the Nose, thereby invalidating the ascent. Hopefully, some climber will soon come along who can send the climb in better style. Of course, he will then also be able to rename and re-rate the route. :lol: Curt
Good call! :lol:
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glowering
Sep 29, 2005, 10:05 PM
Post #32 of 40
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From the above link:
"When it's dry, I'm going to go back and do
it in a day. I can't settle for anything
less."
What was that 5 years ago? Unfinished business like that drives me crazy.
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grayhghost
Sep 29, 2005, 10:08 PM
Post #33 of 40
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I was up there this month and Beth and Tommy were working on the Changing Corners pitch on T.R. via a base camp set-up on the summit. The Great Roof was tick-marked like a gym.
There are people other than Lynn Hill who have climbed the Great Roof free on lead, but the true challenge seems to be 3 moves in the Changing Corners.
I was suprised at how little chipping was done on the Jardine Traverse. I was expecting a Charleston/Rifle chip-up but only 2 or 3 thin flakes had been deepened.
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jakedatc
Sep 30, 2005, 12:01 AM
Post #34 of 40
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If anything i would bet Beth would get it before Tommy.. depending on how close she is on the changing corners. she's tiny and seems to love pin scars
why is this in sport climbing ;)
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fracture
Sep 30, 2005, 1:33 AM
Post #35 of 40
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In reply to: In reply to: TR is still a free ascent. Yet people act like the Great Roof is unrepeated: it's not. fracture, as hard as you spray about your beliefs on TRing, why dont you go send it to dispel any rumours?
Umm... was that supposed to make sense?
In reply to: TR is TR. It is impressive but not the same.
Yeah... Like... So... why don't you "go send it and dispell any rumors"? :roll:
(Whatever that means? Wtf?)
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fracture
Sep 30, 2005, 1:34 AM
Post #36 of 40
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In reply to: why is this in sport climbing ;)
Makes sense to me. :D
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fracture
Sep 30, 2005, 1:36 AM
Post #37 of 40
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In reply to: There are people other than Lynn Hill who have climbed the Great Roof free on lead, but the true challenge seems to be 3 moves in the Changing Corners.
Interesting. Do you know who has done it?
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iamthewallress
Sep 30, 2005, 1:54 AM
Post #38 of 40
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In reply to: I was up there this month and Beth and Tommy were working on the Changing Corners pitch on T.R. via a base camp set-up on the summit. The Great Roof was tick-marked like a gym.
I think that part of the mystique keeping more folks from going up there and working the shit out of those pitches isn't that they were done by a woman, but that she did them in better style than almost every other ascent of El Cap via any other route.
I hope that they didn't leave lines fixed to the summit when the dropped in to work that pitch.
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paganmonkeyboy
Sep 30, 2005, 2:09 AM
Post #39 of 40
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In reply to: Man, this armchair is comfortable. 8^)
best. line. ever...
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bubbahotep
Oct 3, 2005, 11:45 PM
Post #40 of 40
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In reply to: There are people other than Lynn Hill who have climbed the Great Roof free on lead, but the true challenge seems to be 3 moves in the Changing Corners.
Like who??
Inquiring minds want to know.......
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