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topher
Aug 9, 2002, 10:34 PM
Post #26 of 32
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Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 477
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flagstaff_climber, all your gear should be able to stop opra, if you come across a bad placment, back it up and if you can equalize the two crappy pices so that they are about the same as a decent placment
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jbone
Aug 9, 2002, 11:17 PM
Post #27 of 32
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Registered: Jul 30, 2002
Posts: 463
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When you still wanting to climb and all your partners are chicken...
Use a Gri-Gri
J-Bone
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hugepedro
Aug 9, 2002, 11:53 PM
Post #28 of 32
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 2875
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In my opinion, the answer depends on the situation. Are you starting to lead sport, or trad? Are you the only "leader" on the scene, or is there someone with you who is experienced in advanced techniques, such as self-rescue.
If you're taking your first sport lead, start on routes that are below your current ability level. Stay below your ability level for a while until you've worked out all the nuances of leading and experienced enough different situations to know how to handle them. Make sure you know what you're going to do when you top out. Know about all the different types of top anchors you may encounter. Know how to rig to lower safely. Know how to construct an equalized belay anchor using all the techniques (sliding x, cordalette, atomic clip, static v, etc.). Talk to more experienced leaders about your abilities and knowledge, get their advice and suggestions for improving your techniques before you start pushing the difficulties of your leads. Get a mentor to help you, or if you have the cash take some classes.
If you're taking your first trad lead, start way below your ability level. Know all of the above plus how to place the different types of gear and properly rig it (practice placing gear at ground level and weighting it to see how your placements behave). Know about fall factors, the strength ratings on your gear, and the pulley effect, and know what all those mean in terms of the forces that will be applied to your top piece and your entire climbing system when you fall. Know about the zipper effect and how to protect against it. Know how to construct multi-directional pro. Know how to construct a SRENE belay anchor. Know about force multiplication as it relates to the bottom angle in your belay anchor.
In both sport and trad leading, know how to assess and plan a climb from the ground. How long is it? Will you lower off, rappel off, or walk off? If lowering or rappeling off is 1 rope long enough? What do you expect the anchor to be, do you have the right gear for it? Is there rockfall hazzard? Should your belayer be anchored?
Also in both sport and trad leading, someone on the ground should know self-rescue techniques. How to escape the belay, ascend the rope, rappel with an injured climber, lower an injured climber, and rig a hauling system to raise an injured climber.
I my opinion, leading is about more than just climbing a pitch on the sharp end, it is about responsibility to your climbing partners and to yourself. There's a big difference between being able to lead a climb and having the competence to lead other climbers. To be a true leader you need the knowledge to be able to handle a multitude of different situations that you may encounter. So get on the sharp end when you're in the presence of another "leader", and learn what it takes to be a competent leader.
I hope this info helps. I'm not trying to cover everything you need to know to lead. I'm really just trying to illustrate that there is a ton of stuff to learn, unless of course, you like things like broken bones.
Cheers,
Peter
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mtnjohn
Aug 10, 2002, 12:06 AM
Post #29 of 32
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Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 230
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Hugerpedro quite a novel you got there!
Lead when feel you like it.
It's fun!
Pro & go
There are things to think about though
and you will beleive me!
If youre' leading sport it easier less complicated than making toast
Trad is a bit complex you may want follow a couple of pitches first
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iridesantacruz
Aug 11, 2002, 12:02 AM
Post #30 of 32
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Registered: Aug 3, 2002
Posts: 594
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thanks!
[ This Message was edited by: iridesantacruz on 2002-08-10 17:03 ]
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bigevilgrape
Aug 11, 2002, 9:22 PM
Post #31 of 32
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Registered: Nov 4, 2001
Posts: 922
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if you are sport leading ind an experienced climber to help you along and go for it. but if you are going to trad lead its a good idea to practice placeinng pro on TR before takeing the sharp end
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bigevilgrape
Aug 11, 2002, 9:23 PM
Post #32 of 32
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Registered: Nov 4, 2001
Posts: 922
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if you are sport leading ind an experienced climber to help you along and go for it. but if you are going to trad lead its a good idea to practice placeinng pro on TR before takeing the sharp end
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