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bachar
Mar 14, 2006, 5:01 AM
Post #51 of 63
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Registered: Feb 19, 2006
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Here's another gemstone - Gill's Double Dyno on the Fatted Calf. Never had a repeat as far as I know ??? A true B3 - only one ascent in all these years !
(as far as I know...) - jb
http://i50.photobucket.com/...illsDoubleResize.jpg
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curt
Mar 14, 2006, 5:06 AM
Post #52 of 63
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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John,
That problem has been repeated by several people, including myself. The much harder "groove" problem to the right has (to date) only been repeated by Holloway.
Curt
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nrgroscoe
Mar 14, 2006, 5:16 AM
Post #53 of 63
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Registered: Feb 9, 2005
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Ahhhh...
Those photos bring back memories of easier, funner times than these.
I took the one of you JB @ donner summit! 2nd solo ascent of manic depression! I soloed it right before you but had it dialed on TR. You on the other hand did it once on tr, pulled the rope and sent it right then and there in the pic.!!!!
Thanks for the pics, the posts, the good times tooling around with you in the 80's and now my memories......
Kurt
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bachar
Mar 14, 2006, 5:18 AM
Post #54 of 63
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Registered: Feb 19, 2006
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Really! wow - all these years I never heard anything about it. Ament's movie shows him "replicating" the dyno but he doesn't really do it (there's a jump cut in the footage). I remember Largo grabbing the top about 5 times but he couldn't "hang" it. I do remember the thing to the right as well - quite 'wicked' as I recall. Thanks for the info - I'm kinda' bummed now - my brain has been rearranged so to speak. Hat's off to you as well - that's a pretty stout "double" !!! cheers, john
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curt
Mar 14, 2006, 5:28 AM
Post #55 of 63
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In reply to: Really! wow - all these years I never heard anything about it. Ament's movie shows him "replicating" the dyno but he doesn't really do it (there's a jump cut in the footage). I remember Largo grabbing the top about 5 times but he couldn't "hang" it. I do remember the thing to the right as well - quite 'wicked' as I recall. Thanks for the info - I'm kinda' bummed now - my brain has been rearranged so to apeak. Hat's off to you as well - that's a pretty stout "double" !!! cheers, john
Thanks. I recall trying to repeat the groove problem in the early 1990s with Chris Jones, Bob Williams, John Sherman and a couple of other guys. None of us were getting anywhere. Then Bob Williams pulls into the gaston move and everyone hears a loud "snap." It turns out that Bob audibly parted his rib cage cartelidge. We offered to drive him to the nearest hospital--but he declined, being the tough SOB that he is.
Curt
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bachar
Mar 14, 2006, 5:28 AM
Post #56 of 63
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Registered: Feb 19, 2006
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Kurt! What up bro! Yeah I remember that day. I still got killer photos looking straight down on you soloing 'Manic"....whew baby - those are some funky layback moves to solo!
Thanks for the compliments! Let's go soloing sometime !!!! jb
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nrgroscoe
Mar 14, 2006, 5:32 AM
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JB,
I'm always down with a solo mission. When i get time off the road i'll have to dig up some pics from the archives! We climbed some cool things together back then and it's fun to look at pics and remember the good old days....
Climbing has changed and with it some adventure and COMMITTMENT has been lost.....
But in the end it's still fucking funner and better than being a drone stuck in suburban life, death and taxes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The 80's KICKED ASS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
KS
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hellbent
Mar 14, 2006, 6:24 AM
Post #60 of 63
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Registered: Nov 6, 2002
Posts: 132
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Wow...those pics are super wicked.
bachar.... got to school the kids (like me)...please keep them coming and NO I'm not tired but hungry for them.
If you could, please put in some stories or contextual situation write-up during the time the pic was taken. I guess it makes for interesting reading.
I'm too young to say "Thank you for the memories" but I will thank you for the schooling.
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pecall
Jul 14, 2006, 12:34 PM
Post #61 of 63
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Registered: Jun 3, 2005
Posts: 21
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Father Figure, J-Tree, right?
Oh, I just love these old hero shots! Not that I haven't seen them before, but that was way back, and so many younger climbers haven't. So please post more here for everybody to enjoy. Thanks, bachar.
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superbum
Jul 15, 2006, 5:18 AM
Post #63 of 63
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Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 822
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I think I was born in the wrong decade! All the great lines I see have been climbed, I get laughed at when I wear lycra and vintage neon Oakley "blades" and people don't like my rack because of all the forged Friends on it! If I had a time machine.....
Anyway, thanks to all you old farts for forging the path, wish I coulda been there!
Making the best of the times in Bishop, CA;
Vic.
jb, if you ever need a partner (HA, like you ever NEED a partner...) drop me a line. It IS granite season on the eastside and I am loving it!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=54102
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