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squamishdirtbag
Jan 10, 2007, 5:17 AM
Post #51 of 55
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Registered: Jul 18, 2005
Posts: 115
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[quote "petsfed"]The idea is that with a spike sticking out of your heel, anywhere you can place a tool, you can hook a heel for a no-hands rest, turning what have been very pumpy, difficult routes into 3 and 4 hour bat-hanging sessions, until you have linked through to the finish. Its all still aid climbing, but sport mixed climbing is contrived enough that I don't see any reason why it should become simply a test of patience (which it is with heel spurs). Front points hurt the rock just as much as heel-spurs, so its not an ethics issue, just a style issue.[/quote]
Have you ever done this? I do agree it is a lesser form off aid but I see no point. If your pumped and need a rest wouldn't it be easier to just clip onto your tool? It would burn more energy to flip back upwards right? It sounds like a funny idea but pics would be nice.
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graniteboy
Jan 10, 2007, 7:35 PM
Post #52 of 55
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Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092
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You dang young whippersnappers....Back When Mallory and I were Boys, we used Hobnail boots with Creepers on our feet, on top of our hobnails....now THAT was considered Poor Style by those Foo Foos over at the Kensington Orviston alpine wanderers club, and we were Banned for Life....Fortunately for Mallory, he fell offa that matterhorn thing over there in foo foo land....and didn't hafta live a life of Shame fer wearing them sissy creepers or, later, the shame of wearin them newfangled 10 Point Crampon spike foots....
Which Brings me to my point: now, what WAS my point??/OH, yeah, back in MY day, we didn't call it TURKEY, we called it WALKIN BIRD....now, we'd have us some walkin bird and all the fixins on giving thanks day ....
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adeptus
Jan 11, 2007, 11:28 AM
Post #53 of 55
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Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 322
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squamishdirtbag wrote: It sounds like a funny idea but pics would be nice.
http://frontpoint-sport.com/...p?album=14&pos=1
The above link is a photo of me in the middle of the crux of an M10.
The argument for bareback style is, that if you can do a no hands rest with spurs, at what is supposed to be the hardest part of a route, then spurs are a form of aid and does not translate to a free ascent.
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brent_e
Jan 11, 2007, 1:32 PM
Post #54 of 55
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
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squamishdirtbag wrote: Have you ever done this? I do agree it is a lesser form off aid but I see no point. If your pumped and need a rest wouldn't it be easier to just clip onto your tool? It would burn more energy to flip back upwards right? It sounds like a funny idea but pics would be nice.
if you find some videos of scott muir, or almost anyone for that matter, doing mission impossible (m11???) you'll see that they stop, heel hook, shake out, drink a can of coke, order a big mac, then keep moving. lol Honestly, though, they use those spurs like that quite a bit.
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big_red
Jan 12, 2007, 11:32 AM
Post #55 of 55
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Registered: Dec 29, 2005
Posts: 109
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Hey you guys remember how fun climbing is? haha
So I don't have spurs, don't know anyone who has spurs, and have never come across a situtation where I thought "I need some spurs." Of course they seem cool as hell, and I plan to try them out.
And come on guys... that is far from "cheating" or "aid"... if someone has to take a monster rest to get to the top then keep cheering for them from the bottom. Props to them for doing what it takes, maybe next time they can clean it without the rest, then cheer louder.
Do you look down on your smaller partner who can stuff half their body into an offwidth and rest just the same? I don't... I just resent them quietly and wait for the big reaches up ahead haha
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