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questor
Jul 21, 2006, 10:36 PM
Post #201 of 206
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Registered: Jun 14, 2006
Posts: 28
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In reply to: Ok, s And when I'm sketched, the first thing I think of is ....i]who is down there belaying me, and more importantly, are they using a grigri? It's true, I am grigri dependent!. Gotta come to grips with it, I guess.
dude, i totally understand this feeling. i used to feel that way. but now i prefer any other kind of device to a gri-gri! why? well, if you belay with say an atc, you are 100 per cent more attentive. if you belay with an atc, you give the climber a 'soft' fall should he/she get pumped stupid. if you belay with an atc, you don't glaze or burn the sheath of the rope as you may with a gri-gri. and if you belay with an atc, sure, the climber may fall further, but is less likely to get slammed into the rock and hurt that way.
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whitribj
Aug 2, 2006, 12:48 PM
Post #202 of 206
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Registered: Jun 16, 2006
Posts: 145
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Is the love soley for the gri-gri? Or is it all auto-locking devices?
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alexmac
Aug 2, 2006, 1:05 PM
Post #203 of 206
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Registered: May 23, 2005
Posts: 550
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Hmm, here is where I have an issue "But, when I'm faced with a move that I'm not confident of sticking, I have the thought 'shit, that isn't a grigri down there.' Coming from the school of climbing where I dog everything hard, fall a lot, and tram up the rope, I have really come to despise climbing sport w/o a grigri. " is that you did not communicate....
Watch me! (insert name). A bomber belayer as you called them will be that much more ready to catch a fall; though they should be paying attention to you and not their prefer sexual gender type walking by the climb.
Again when coming to a move you think you may not stick talk to your belayer; though you have already set your mind to the negative.
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dfrb26dett
Aug 2, 2006, 5:56 PM
Post #204 of 206
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Registered: Jul 19, 2006
Posts: 21
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As so many others have stated, after falling on ATCs, Figure 8s, and Grigris, I will never let someone belay me off of a grigri again. Not only does it lead to inattentive belayers but it is also far too hard on pro imho. As far as someone decking from not stopping as fast with an ATC as they would have with a grigri, assuming this would happen (I’m not fully buying it), the difference of a few feet is not going to be broken bone vs A OK in most instances. So, you deck lightly instead of stopping harshly two feet above deck? That sounds a little more realistic and less dramatized that “you could deck with an ATC when you wouldn’t with a grigri”. I would be more worried about some guy not paying attention when I peel because of the feeling of safety the word “automatic” imparts. ATC keeps you on your toes.
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microfracture
Aug 2, 2006, 6:06 PM
Post #205 of 206
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Registered: Nov 17, 2005
Posts: 8
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In reply to: As so many others have stated, after falling on ATCs, Figure 8s, and Grigris, I will never let someone belay me off of a grigri again. Not only does it lead to inattentive belayers but it is also far too hard on pro imho. As far as someone decking from not stopping as fast with an ATC as they would have with a grigri, assuming this would happen (I’m not fully buying it), the difference of a few feet is not going to be broken bone vs A OK in most instances. So, you deck lightly instead of stopping harshly two feet above deck? That sounds a little more realistic and less dramatized that “you could deck with an ATC when you wouldn’t with a grigri”. I would be more worried about some guy not paying attention when I peel because of the feeling of safety the word “automatic” imparts. ATC keeps you on your toes.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ID=dfrb26dett&mode=4
Are we to assume that the above is the basis for your assessment?
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dfrb26dett
Aug 2, 2006, 6:25 PM
Post #206 of 206
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Registered: Jul 19, 2006
Posts: 21
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Are we to assume that you are a useless troll who is highlighting the route section of my profile in an attempt to pretend that it is the full range and breadth of my experience in order to make my comment carry less weight? If we are using our online profiles to judge each other you are pretty much screwed with a post count of three, though I’m sure this is just your troll account. I thought the route database was a pretty cool feature, so I bummed around in it for awhile. I have not (nor will I likely ever) added all my climbs or wish list to my profile. I’d rather be climbing than looking up routes all day. So, basically stop being a tool, if you were that cool you would be posting under your main account and if by some off chance this is your main account (I doubt it) why don’t you try contributing to the conversation instead of being an asshat.
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