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cracklover
May 21, 2010, 4:48 PM
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karmiclimber wrote: [quote "maxtrax"][quote] ^^^^^^ Classic quote... need a trophy... anybody got a trophy?!?!??[/quote] Okay, so color me stupid but what is this trophy thing you all speak of?[/quote] *starts coloring*
Before stars, there were trophies for good posts, and steaming turds for bad ones.
Look at the dates - this is an undead thread.
GO
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jt512
May 21, 2010, 4:56 PM
Post #27 of 55
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cracklover wrote: karmiclimber wrote: maxtrax wrote: In reply to: ^^^^^^ Classic quote... need a trophy... anybody got a trophy?!?!?? Okay, so color me stupid but what is this trophy thing you all speak of? *starts coloring* Before stars, there were trophies for good posts, and steaming turds for bad ones.
And you were allotted a limited number of trophies to give out, which is why the person is asking if anyone has one.
Jay
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karmiclimber
May 21, 2010, 5:17 PM
Post #28 of 55
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Yeah, but I didn't revive it. I just take any opportunity I can to color.
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onceahardman
May 21, 2010, 11:17 PM
Post #29 of 55
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[quote "fluxus"][quote]After a climber documents a first ascent, he/she contacts the National Alpine Society (NAS) and they allow one to chose a route name from a master list. The process is similar to the way the National Weather Service (NWS) names tropical hurricanes, with each storm in a particular season getting named with the same letter of the alphabet, with each letter cycling through every 26 years. In 2006, all new climbing routes begin with the letter "N."
Hope that helps![/quote]
Actually there is new legislation in Washington this week to change the system to one more like the system used in music publishing / rights granting, which means its more complex. The new bill would make it so that new routes using a name similar to, or the same as an established route name would have to pay a clearance fee to the climbers who put up the older routes. Despite the complexity I think it will be better since it should cut down on routes with ". . .wild ride", "welcome to . . ." or
" . . . semen" in the name.[/quote]
I have obtained the domain, "direct". All routes which are "direct" routes now pay me a handsome royalty. This includes all the "directissima" and "double directississima" routes at the gunks. I have been able to retire easily, as the mohonk preserve pays me a royalty every time someone climbs my routes. So, thanks everybody!
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c4c
May 22, 2010, 12:20 AM
Post #30 of 55
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jt512 wrote: cracklover wrote: karmiclimber wrote: maxtrax wrote: In reply to: ^^^^^^ Classic quote... need a trophy... anybody got a trophy?!?!?? Okay, so color me stupid but what is this trophy thing you all speak of? *starts coloring* Before stars, there were trophies for good posts, and steaming turds for bad ones. And you were allotted a limited number of trophies to give out, which is why the person is asking if anyone has one. Jay
Ahhh those were the days.
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curt
May 22, 2010, 12:25 AM
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Yes.
Curt
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guangzhou
May 26, 2010, 3:25 AM
Post #32 of 55
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airscape wrote: Why would you reuse names?
Mostly because I am in a new country every time.
In reply to: Do you do that with your kids also? Meet my kids, bob, bob and Applehoneysky. |
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guangzhou
May 26, 2010, 3:31 AM
Post #33 of 55
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angry wrote: Not as a dis to you (well, a little one anyway), that has got to be the least creative thing I've ever heard. For me, I try to make my routes puns that go with the theme of the area or the mood of the climb. I do everything possible to never repeat a route. Just as I'd never tattoo a girlfriends name on myself, or paint her name on an underpass, I would never name a route after her.
I agree, some names of my routes are more creative than others. I've now established over 1000 routes. names are running low.
I have no regret naming routes after a girl friend.
With my wedding last year, I maned several routes that theme.
Bachelor's Funeral, White Wedding, I do, and Climbing is my mistress.
Some were creative than others for sure.
On Okinawa, my buddy tried the second ascent of a routes and fell onto a giant tropical fern tree we trimmed. The fern tree ripped his pants and underwear. The route was named "Tropical Enema" in his honor.
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rangerrob
May 27, 2010, 3:26 PM
Post #34 of 55
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What is the point of naming it in the first place? Isn;t it rather vain to put a name on an intangible line on a cliff face? How about just climbing it with as little impact as you can, and leaving it for the next person to discover? You can call it whatever you want in your little climbing book. Seriously, are you like contacting every guide book author in all these places telling them about your White Wedding route?
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airscape
May 31, 2010, 10:40 AM
Post #35 of 55
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rangerrob wrote: What is the point of naming it in the first place? Isn;t it rather vain to put a name on an intangible line on a cliff face? How about just climbing it with as little impact as you can, and leaving it for the next person to discover? You can call it whatever you want in your little climbing book. Seriously, are you like contacting every guide book author in all these places telling them about your White Wedding route?
How the hell is giving it a name fucking up the enviroment?
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bill413
May 31, 2010, 1:04 PM
Post #36 of 55
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airscape wrote: rangerrob wrote: What is the point of naming it in the first place? Isn;t it rather vain to put a name on an intangible line on a cliff face? How about just climbing it with as little impact as you can, and leaving it for the next person to discover? You can call it whatever you want in your little climbing book. Seriously, are you like contacting every guide book author in all these places telling them about your White Wedding route? How the hell is giving it a name fucking up the enviroment?
It's the plaques that get put at the start of every route, with the name, FA party, date. Generally made of bronze.
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airscape
May 31, 2010, 1:31 PM
Post #37 of 55
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bill413 wrote: airscape wrote: rangerrob wrote: What is the point of naming it in the first place? Isn;t it rather vain to put a name on an intangible line on a cliff face? How about just climbing it with as little impact as you can, and leaving it for the next person to discover? You can call it whatever you want in your little climbing book. Seriously, are you like contacting every guide book author in all these places telling them about your White Wedding route? How the hell is giving it a name fucking up the enviroment? It's the plaques that get put at the start of every route, with the name, FA party, date. Generally made of bronze.
I was thinking of doing some deep oil soloing in the gulf of mexico.
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bill413
May 31, 2010, 8:56 PM
Post #38 of 55
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airscape wrote: bill413 wrote: airscape wrote: rangerrob wrote: What is the point of naming it in the first place? Isn;t it rather vain to put a name on an intangible line on a cliff face? How about just climbing it with as little impact as you can, and leaving it for the next person to discover? You can call it whatever you want in your little climbing book. Seriously, are you like contacting every guide book author in all these places telling them about your White Wedding route? How the hell is giving it a name fucking up the enviroment? It's the plaques that get put at the start of every route, with the name, FA party, date. Generally made of bronze. I was thinking of doing some deep oil soloing in the gulf of mexico.
How will you keep your chalk dry? I'm pretty sure you'll need it!
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guangzhou
Jun 1, 2010, 12:40 AM
Post #39 of 55
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bill413 wrote: airscape wrote: rangerrob wrote: What is the point of naming it in the first place? Isn;t it rather vain to put a name on an intangible line on a cliff face? How about just climbing it with as little impact as you can, and leaving it for the next person to discover? You can call it whatever you want in your little climbing book. Seriously, are you like contacting every guide book author in all these places telling them about your White Wedding route? How the hell is giving it a name fucking up the enviroment? It's the plaques that get put at the start of every route, with the name, FA party, date. Generally made of bronze.
Not sure what bronze plaque you're referring too. As for not naming routes for others to discover, well here is my take.
Generally speaking, most climbers are to busy or to lazy to go out and rediscover routes for themselves. Me too for that matter. In the summer, I spend my time climbing in Europe and the states where other have done all the work.
When I roam crags in the U.S. i walk around and jump on what ever route looks interesting, in most places. I rarely know the grade, name of the route, or history. In the evening or at the end of the day, I look it up. Most climbers I meet refuse to climb this way, they consider it dangerous. Most want o know at least the grade before trying, especially in trad area.
Guidebooks, route names, and grade help people maximize their time when they go climbing. The climbing area I am currently developing was first climbed a decade ago. They were two routes when I arrvied, now they are over 60.
It use to see two climbing parties a year. Now, we have more routes and the word is out, we have a few climbers there every weekend. We still don't have a guidebook, but many of the routes have names. Makes it easier to share info.
Most climbers say they will, but they don't climb places they have no beta on. Here in Asia, I get a dozen emails a day asking me for "more info" on such and such place. The reality is climbers are busy, they work, and they want to maximize their climbing time. Even me, I climb in places around Asia most have never heard off, but I get info from the local who are establishing the routes before I go. I don't want to spend my week of vacation roaming Borneo aimlessly. Worse yet, I don't want to show up at a new climbing area with a week of climbing time and only one route on the cliff. Or with just sport gear to find a trad area.
Route naming also makes it easier to share information about the route or when talking with other climbers about their experience. "I bolted a new route Sunday. It's on Hester Buttress between Seamstress and Unfinished Waltz. " Now, the climber I am talking too knows where to go to play on the new line. I named it "hidden Asset. Not sure the grade, i think you can do it, let me know what you think it's rated and we can go from there.
As for leaving no trace, I don't believe that possible when it comes to climbing. We think we leave no trace, but even climbing a crack and placing gear mean all the dirt, bushes, and lose rocks was removed but climbing the route over and over or by the early ascents. Trails leading to the base and from the summit. We might create less damage than four wheelers, but we have more impact than the average hiker too.
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chalkjockey
Jun 1, 2010, 12:51 AM
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[quote "rainontin"]Yeah I'm sorry about that. I was on vacation that week and my second in command was strung out on mescaline and adrenochrome the whole time so I had to sub-contract the job out to some dudes in Sri Lanka in order to save enough money.[/quote]
as long as you didn't get into the ether. there is nothing so irresponsible and depraved than a man in the depths of an ether binge.
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rangerrob
Jun 3, 2010, 3:27 PM
Post #41 of 55
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Airspace, I never said naming a route f**** up the environment. Those were your words. I said how about just climbing with as little impact as possible,and leave the route for the next person to discover the way you did.
My point is the initial poster sounded like he was looking for noteriety in his climbing and route naming. I guess that's what most people look for. I admire the climber who explores, climbs, and leaves.
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guangzhou
Jun 4, 2010, 12:35 AM
Post #42 of 55
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rangerrob wrote: Airspace, I never said naming a route f**** up the environment. Those were your words. I said how about just climbing with as little impact as possible,and leave the route for the next person to discover the way you did. My point is the initial poster sounded like he was looking for noteriety in his climbing and route naming. I guess that's what most people look for. I admire the climber who explores, climbs, and leaves.
Ranger Rob, how many guidebooks do you own?
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airscape
Jun 4, 2010, 2:26 PM
Post #43 of 55
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rangerrob wrote: Isn;t it rather vain to put a name on an intangible line on a cliff face? How about just climbing it with as little impact as you can, and leaving it for the next person to discover?. |
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rangerrob
Jun 4, 2010, 11:47 PM
Post #44 of 55
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I own a bunch. I use almost none of them. The history sections are usually pretty cool reading
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climbingtrash
Jun 5, 2010, 1:07 AM
Post #45 of 55
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rangerrob wrote: I own a bunch. I use almost none of them. The history sections are usually pretty cool reading
So do you carry a bolt kit up every route you do?
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guangzhou
Jun 5, 2010, 4:09 AM
Post #46 of 55
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rangerrob wrote: I own a bunch. I use almost none of them. The history sections are usually pretty cool reading
The history, like who were the first climbers there?
When did they put up the routes?
and how did they put them up?
The history of climbing areas would be pretty dull without names on the routes you're reading for reference wouldn't it. If you enjoy the history of a climbing area but you don't want to read about route names or the first ascent party, might I suggest a geology book instead.
I just spent three weeks climbing in Malaysia. One of the first things I bought when I arrived, after a cup of coffee, was the local climbing guide. Made it easy for me to find a dozen climbing area across the country.
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RyanJames1984
Jun 5, 2010, 4:49 AM
Post #47 of 55
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"is route naming arbitrary?"
Is climbing up the small and large rocks strewn over our earth arbitrary? |
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j_ung
Jun 5, 2010, 11:08 AM
Post #48 of 55
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rangerrob wrote: What is the point of naming it in the first place? Isn;t it rather vain to put a name on an intangible line on a cliff face? How about just climbing it with as little impact as you can, and leaving it for the next person to discover? You can call it whatever you want in your little climbing book. Seriously, are you like contacting every guide book author in all these places telling them about your White Wedding route?
Do you have many of such ascents under your belt? If so, I hope you won't complain if the next guy climbs them in worse style and claims the FA.
Certainly, there's some ego involved with claiming the FA and stamping the line with a name, but there's also some practical value to it. The process, I'll add, is almost always the exact opposite of what you postulated. We (in the universal sense) climb them because that's the whole point, we name them for giggles or some such and share them with our friends because they are our tribe. Later, when the area grows in popularity and somebody wants to write a guidebook, they contact us and ask for the info. Such processes have played a large role in making storied climbing areas storied.
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rangerrob
Jun 5, 2010, 5:35 PM
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okay..lots of questions to answer.....
First, what the hell would I carrya bolt kit for? I wouldn't even know how to use one if I had it.
Second, no I wouldn't mind at all if someone climbed a route later and then claimed a first ascent. I would laugh at them maybe, but hey, call it your FA if that makes you feel better. It's not like I am going to collect royalties everytime someone mentions my White Wedding route.
Thirdly, of course I have guidebooks, and use them sometimes. You guys are taking this all too literally. The tone of my earlier post was meant to men my climbing in general has moved towards the purer form of climbing....for my amusement. I find it amusing that people obsess about their "FA's" so much that they have to post about naming obscure routes on obscure cliffs.
RR
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