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robsknot
Oct 30, 2006, 8:46 AM
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In translation:
My protection had worked itself out..... and yes the second recovered it.
Sod that for a game of soldiers.....no bloody way not if I can help it.
The guide was not leading he was seconding one of the other guys. And had been involved in a lightening strike some years previously...Alledgedly. We took a guide to make up the numbers and for the fact that the mountain is rarely climbed due to inclement weather.... (bad weather conditions)
The Kit or gear is the rack or protection , but can also be just about anything you carry. The lightening strikes were a hundred or so meters away......All the kit was intact.
As long as i am not slated too much for giving it to the other geezer I might add another jackanory later on.....
If its any consolation some Americanisms are hard to grasp too...
:?
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ter_bee
Oct 30, 2006, 1:30 PM
Post #27 of 67
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thanks!
jtwhatsit is mean to everyone. i did think the 'drowning' bit was a little corny though.
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robsknot
Oct 30, 2006, 3:35 PM
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Cheers mate, a little corny perhaps, but had to test the water to get some conversation. Its rather dull here at times, and was following the lines that some others had followed.
I didnt expect to be shouted at though. ho hum.. Its nice to know that there are others that enjoy climbing as well.
thanks again......
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robsknot
Oct 30, 2006, 3:36 PM
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Cheers mate, a little corny perhaps, but had to test the water to get some conversation. Its rather dull here at times, and was following the lines that some others had followed.
I didnt expect to be shouted at though. ho hum.. Its nice to know that there are others that enjoy climbing as well.
thanks again......
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robsknot
Oct 30, 2006, 3:37 PM
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Cheers mate, a little corny perhaps, but had to test the water to get some conversation. Its rather dull here at times, and was following the lines that some others had followed.
I didnt expect to be shouted at though. ho hum.. Its nice to know that there are others that enjoy climbing as well.
thanks again......
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jt512
Oct 30, 2006, 4:46 PM
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In reply to: Read between the lines sunshine, or in your case get your mate to read it for you, and get him to explain the definition of pretentious.
If you disagree with my use of the word "pretentious," feel free to mentally delete it from the sentence. No serious loss of meaning will result.
Jay
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robsknot
Oct 30, 2006, 5:08 PM
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Those that can DO
Those that cant TEACH
and those that cant do either CRITICISE.
Having read a few of your comments on others that have dared to enter your e domain, I am not at all surprised that you have jumped on the band wagon with a bunch of expletives.
Wrap your tits in now big boy and go get some therapy for your superiority complex. I would imagine I am probably not the only one that is not impressed with your attitude. Good bloke. NOT
If you cant say any thing nice, dont say it at all.
What do you do for a living that makes you so bloody conescending?
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ter_bee
Oct 31, 2006, 2:27 AM
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In reply to: Wrap your tits in now big boy and go get some therapy for your superiority complex. I would imagine I am probably not the only one that is not impressed with your attitude. Good bloke. NOT
i forgot to mention that i doubt you'll be able to hurt jt's feelings. on the other hand, you might piss a bunch of women (me included) off if you keep implying there's something wrong with having a boyfriend and tits. even for him.
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robsknot
Oct 31, 2006, 4:43 AM
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A rough translation from the Btitish is 'Give up now'... my appologies if the commonly used statement offends.
:oops:
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braaaaaaaadley
Oct 31, 2006, 5:08 AM
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Too funny. BTW robsknot there are alot of nice folks on this site and there are several jackasses as well. Try not to let the later bother you... just accept the fact that they are here lurking.
To get back on to the subject i'll contribute a sort of sketchy story... but it won't really compete with most of the story's already posted.
So there I was on the third pitch of a route in middle of nowhere North Carolina. The route that we chose was bolted, but when people in North Carolina say bolted it means bolts every 20' or so. The guidebook reccomended a "light rack," but since the route was pretty easy (5.6) I tried to run things out as much as possible. The start of the third pitch was pretty straight forward. I climbed up about 20' to the first bolt, clipped in and proceded up to the second bolt which was about 15 or so feet after the first. I looked up after clipping into the second bolt and saw the anchors to the route about 80 or so feet above my head and to the right. I did not see any bolts, but I was not worried because the face was somewhat wavy in appearance-- as in if you looked up you might not see your next bolt untill you stumble upon it. I continued up and to the right for another 25' or so and sure enough, I found another bolt. I clipped in and proceded up past a couple good nut placements which I passed up for what I thought would be another bolt. About 40 feet up and about 15' to the right of my last bolt placement, I was starting to wonder if where that next bolt was. I climbed up another five feet up to where the rock was turned pretty low angled--a semi sloping ledge. At this spot I was about 15-20' directly under the anchors with a steep slabby section left to finish off the climb. To my horror and dismay that steep slabby section was covered in quartz veins which had a good amount of water trickling over them. After looking for some sort of placement to ease my mind I grew some balls and finished the route even after having a foothold slip out from under me.
Moral of the story... never skip a good placement becuase you never know if it will be your last.
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robsknot
Oct 31, 2006, 8:04 AM
Post #36 of 67
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Thanks Bradley, and cool moral story too. This is a good site, loads of helpfull stuff and some great folk, I agree.
I tend to find that there is something unusual on just about every climb I do which makes them memorable, I suppose.
I have manage to go off routs more than once. Some of the guide book descriptions in UK are a little bland at times, so my self help/recovery skills are not bad at all.
Cheers mate
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nutstuffer
Nov 1, 2006, 1:15 AM
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runout on wet quartz veins, nice story, the grade is meaningless. NC is so cool, got great tradition and ethics, too. You collected and sent.
Have you heard the tale of the sportclimbing epic? Was pumped, but made the clip only to realize when I tried to move I had clipped my shoelace in the biner. :lol:
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jt512
Nov 1, 2006, 1:34 AM
Post #38 of 67
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In reply to: What do you do for a living that makes you so bloody conescending?
Why would I be condescending because of my work? I'm condescending because I'm smarter than you.
Jay
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jt512
Nov 1, 2006, 1:39 AM
Post #39 of 67
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In reply to: Those that can DO Those that cant TEACH and those that cant do either CRITICISE. Having read a few of your comments on others that have dared to enter your e domain, I am not at all surprised that you have jumped on the band wagon with a bunch of expletives. Wrap your tits in now big boy and go get some therapy for your superiority complex.
And those who can't validly CRITICISE resort to ad hominem attacks (every time).
In reply to: What do you do for a living that makes you so bloody conescending?
Nothing I do for a living makes me condescending. I'm condescending because I'm smarter than you.
Jay
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sdkbcassidy
Nov 1, 2006, 3:52 AM
Post #40 of 67
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In reply to: Nothing I do for a living makes me condescending. I'm condescending because I'm smarter than you.
First laugh out loud moment I've had on an otherwise crappy day. That was fantastic. Thanks.
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robsknot
Nov 1, 2006, 4:21 AM
Post #41 of 67
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A pilonidal cyst is a recurrent, painful, pus-filled abscess AT THE TOP OF YOUR ARSE CRACK.
I am so pleased that you are smarter than me....How satisfying that must be for you, and the people you come into contact with you.
If my intelligence is sub standard then it logically follows that you must be of a similar ilk for you to enter into any any kind of dialogue at all. Doh.
As far as I am concerned Sir, if find your approach and rhetoric rather disheartening and rather offending as I have only just joined this site and instantly you try your bully boy tactics.
I wish no further dialogue with you as you have nothing worth while or contructive to add. Please go bother someone else and let me enjoy this web site and those folk that enjoy it too.
Regards
Rob
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jt512
Nov 1, 2006, 5:04 AM
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In reply to: As far as I am concerned Sir, if find your approach and rhetoric rather disheartening and rather offending as I have only just joined this site...
Your reaction is hardly surprising. After all, in your apparently brief time here, I've implied that you're pretentious and stupid. You ought to have quit while you were ahead. Unfortunately, you never were.
Jay
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robsknot
Nov 1, 2006, 10:08 AM
Post #43 of 67
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I dont actually see this as some competition of whit or intellect.
Obviously you do.
How sad.
The words Rock, You and Crawl spring to mind.
Go try bully some one else.
Muppet.
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jt512
Nov 1, 2006, 4:46 PM
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In reply to: I dont actually see this as some competition of whit or intellect.
Or spelling either, apparently.
Jay
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sungam
Nov 1, 2006, 5:01 PM
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Jay, your being a twat.
It's obvious you wish you could post something worthwhile here, and since you can't you don't want to read other peoples storeys.
I thought it was well good+funny rob, just ignore jay and keep posting funny shite like that.
You seem sound to me.
-Magnus
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nutstuffer
Nov 1, 2006, 10:07 PM
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I'll post another. Promise I am saving some better ones after some of you other guys ante up. But this will do for now, and to get back on topic.
There is this popular route, except the guide book describes the last pitch as the crux and R and loose rock, and is seldom climbed. So we climb the route with the sole purpose of sending that last pitch.
Dead vertical and thin and stout. With only a couple of placements you would want to fall on. Not a single decent stance either. This type of climbing is difficult because your spending more time dinking with the gear, trying to get something at least marginal, before moving up. I am near the top out, and I am starting to feel the pump coming on. I am several feet above my last manky piece, which is above about 3 other manky pieces. I consider myself to be in a no fall situation.
I study to moves ahead and decide move left and then up. To get my feet moved over I see this thin flake at arms length that I can lay off of. Best hold I've seen for awhile. As I am loading this flake it breaks loose. I regain my balance and get my feet back under me on some small edges, but what to do with 2 pound flake I am holding in my hand. My belayer is directly below me, and as far as giving it a fling, At this point I am trying not to roll my eyeballs, to maintain balance. So without hesitation I stick it in my mouth, just like you would the rope at a clip, and start moving. The pump clock is on and I have to top out quick. Then I can safely dispose of my stinking little friend I've got between my teeth, it didn't taste so good. As I get to the top out the angle lays back, but there is nothing positive. At this point my jaw is pumped, and the rocks falls free, I don't even remember if I yelled rock. Luckily it missed my belayer. I used the classic beached whale move to finish the route, as my hands were pretty useless.
When my partner of many years cleaned the pitch and joined me at the belay, at first he said nothing, but gave me the look. I knew what that look meant. Half of the gear was probably wishful thinking. After we rapped off, He ask what the hell happened up there, man that looked dicey. After I told him about carrying the rock in my mouth, we laughed it up for the rest of the day.
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j_ung
Nov 1, 2006, 11:23 PM
Post #47 of 67
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A buddy of mine has this theory... name any route -- sport or trad -- in NC and he can tell you why it should reasonably be R or X rated. I've come up with a few that seem to fall outside his theory, but on the whole, I have to say he may in fact be mostly right.
So, this one time I was climbing this route in NC...
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robsknot
Nov 2, 2006, 10:52 AM
Post #48 of 67
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A short ditty as I have ten mins to play with....
My better halfs recent intro to climbing was a trip to Waadi Rum,my intention was to take her up the Jebel Rum, fenar fenar...
I met her half way on the way back from Baggers and we spent 10 days ferreting around in Jordan, which was nice.
It was a, cover all disciplines kind of holiday, sunbathing, sight seeing etc and a bit of light climbing....errr well thats what I had anticipated.
I had climbed extensively around the Waadi in about 96 over a 2 week period so thought I remebered the area quite well.
We arrived for an almost Alpine start at 0600 hrs to meet our guide, we didnt have any gear with us so he supplied it all. I remember the climb as a mountain hike and a couple of scrambles.
If I had taken into account my fitness and climbing prowess of a few years ago, then perhaps I might have started her on something simpler.....
The give away to the qwerk, was the guide, who was 4 foot and a fag paper and weighed about the same as a bag of spuds.....
We started the climb around 0800 hrs and were in the shade for a couple of hours.....Some hard scrambling got us to the summit in 4 hours...Lunch was a joke, an i kept tamping the fluids into her.....The up was quite tiering but the down was a night mare. 5 hours later, several interesting abseils of about 40 meters and she was beggining to tire. The last hour was the worst with loads of encouragemet required.....The last hour consisted of 'dont you ever! ask me to go climbing again'.....
She was real sore for a few days then the bug struck.....Now she cant keep away from the kit..3 times aweek on the wall and every spare day when I am at home we go trad multi pitch.
The guide was actually in my opinion not very competant, he climbs 7b European which is a fair one , but his rope work sucked. Some stages I had to reconfigure her kit once he had had his hands on it, and certainly made a point of checking it at every pitch there after.
Should have done a trip like this this for her years ago! lol
All it needs is a push to get us out of our comfort zones and into the real world........
:lol:
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chill41
Nov 2, 2006, 3:40 PM
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In reply to: i kept tamping the fluids into her.....The up was quite tiering but the down was a night mare.
I know the up-down always wears me out too...but if you want to tamp fluids into her, I guess that's the only way to do it. :D
Chris
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braaaaaaaadley
Nov 2, 2006, 3:58 PM
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In reply to: A buddy of mine has this theory... name any route -- sport or trad -- in NC and he can tell you why it should reasonably be R or X rated. I've come up with a few that seem to fall outside his theory, but on the whole, I have to say he may in fact be mostly right. So, this one time I was climbing this route in NC...
Thats funny, I have a similar theory too. This theory especially applies to Ship Rock... if the route is not a crack there its propably R or X rated since most of the routes don't have any sort of pro untill you get oh 25 or so feet off the deck. Also at ship theres route's like the gumfighter (5.11+). I mean if your going to lead that you might as well free solo it b/c the only quality protection besides the one or two micronut placements is a single bolt half way up... and the funny part about it in the guidebook it does not even get a rating lol.
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