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ticklistjunkie
Apr 29, 2007, 12:37 PM
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What is the best 5.10 overhanging jug hall in America?
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rhythm164
Apr 29, 2007, 2:25 PM
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The Nose, it's somewhere in California, can't remember where...
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jakedatc
Apr 29, 2007, 11:44 PM
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Peer Pressure 10d First sport route at Rumney.. freaking classic
most of the route(Underdog) isnt a jug haul per say but this is one of the coolest jugs at rumney
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Apr 29, 2007, 11:51 PM)
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 30, 2007, 12:03 AM
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Best 5.10 jug haul @ rumny Is Armed and Dangerous. Underdog is pretty darn good too. Wiamea is pretty juggy too.....
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unrooted
Apr 30, 2007, 12:54 AM
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Check out American Fork, utah.
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stevej
Apr 30, 2007, 1:02 AM
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Aren't all 5.10's basically jug hauls?
Seriously tho, the best and most fun 5.10 jug haul I have ever done is at the Pit in Arizona. It is called "Mr. Slate" rated 5.10b.
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phylp
Apr 30, 2007, 1:10 AM
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There is a 140' 16 bolt route called Redtail in City of Rocks Idaho that is great. One move of 11.a down low but then the rest is beautiful juggy 5.10.
In the Owen's River Gorge, Blood Sugar Sex Magik is 10.d*****, and I recall it being mostly juggy. 16 bolts/130'
At the Dike Wall in Mammoth, there's a juggy route called Cromagnon 10.a*****. So much fun!
All of the above slightly overhanging.
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jakedatc
Apr 30, 2007, 5:00 AM
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tradmanclimbs wrote: Best 5.10 jug haul @ rumny Is Armed and Dangerous. Underdog is pretty darn good too. Wiamea is pretty juggy too.....
armed and dangerous is in my top 5 there but not my favorite.. though i'm glad mark extended the top to add more jug pulling.
i don't consider waimea a jug haul for a 10.. i consider jugs like sinker "OMG" holds .. super positive yes. jugs.. nah
Masterpieces is up there.. 10a steep fest.. i'd say centerpiece too but that shut me down in a year of anti-endurance so i'm bitter
Juan Valdez is like 5.8 jugs if you can crack the starting boulder problem
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curt
Apr 30, 2007, 5:35 AM
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stevej wrote: Aren't all 5.10's basically jug hauls? Seriously tho, the best and most fun 5.10 jug haul I have ever done is at the Pit in Arizona. It is called "Mr. Slate" rated 5.10b.
I don't even like sport climbing all that much--but, Mr. Slate is an outstanding climb for the grade.
Curt
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colemanizzle
May 1, 2007, 1:53 AM
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It is a bit far away from you, but most people in So Ill seem to like Group Therapy. It's like a 10c, but I can't quite remember. Its in Jackson Falls, Illinois. About 6(?) bolts and around 60 feet tall.
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eric_k
May 8, 2007, 7:39 PM
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I have climber group Therapy and it has super positive holds, it overhangs qutie a bit too. 5.10c
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j_ung
May 8, 2007, 8:04 PM
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Jug "hall"? 
If you climb trad, try Built to Tilt at Shortoff Mtn in NC. I'm sure the Gunks has a few also. Anything at the Red?
(This post was edited by j_ung on May 8, 2007, 8:06 PM)
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joshy8200
May 8, 2007, 8:05 PM
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Um...considering you're asking for the 'best', sport routes are OUT in my opinion.
Routes that would be my contenders: "Built to Tilt" 5.10a Shortoff Mtn, Linville Gorge, NC
The poster route of Linville Gorge: "Lost in Space" 5.10b Hawksbill, NC
"Welcome to Watagua" Ship Rock, NC 5.10d
"Bimbo's Bulge" Moore's Wall, NC 5.10d
Now those are some jug hauling, kick ass routes.
(This post was edited by joshy8200 on May 9, 2007, 2:19 AM)
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j_ung
May 8, 2007, 8:07 PM
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Wah-ha! Just beat you on Built to Tilt. Your list is excellent. Add Break On Through and I think we have a winner.
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jakedatc
May 9, 2007, 11:54 PM
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joshy8200 wrote: Um...considering you're asking for the 'best', sport routes are OUT in my opinion. .
stay out of the fuckin' sport climbing forum then Trad tard 
or get out more and you'd see there are thousands of amazing sport lines.. or better yet.. don't so there is one more parking space in the lot
why why WHY must people who are so against sport climbing post their shit in the sport climbing forum.. this happened the same way with the quick draw thread a few weeks ago.. i mean FUCK just shut the hell up if you hate it so much.
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tradmanclimbs
May 10, 2007, 12:33 AM
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I don't have a problem with putting jug hauling trad lines on the list. i just don't know any 5.10 trad lines in the NE that are Jug hauls. i was going to say thin Air but that is only a six:) I allmost want to say Prince of darkness in RR but that is more crimps than jugs. i still can't get over how much fun Armed, dangerous and off My medication is
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rocknice2
May 10, 2007, 1:03 AM
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tradmanclimbs wrote: I just don't know any 5.10 trad lines in the NE that are Jug hauls.
Try... Spider's Web in Keene Valley Adirondacks, NY
On The Loose - 5.9+++
Big, overhanging hand+/- crack system that dominates the right end of the wall. Tape up and get moving - good secure jams if you can hang out long enough to find 'em. A contender for the world's hardest 5.9. (Rated 5.9+ and done by "Hot" Henry Barber in '77!!)
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endercore
May 10, 2007, 4:47 AM
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breakfast burrito
drive by crag
rrg
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joshy8200
May 10, 2007, 4:50 AM
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jakedatc wrote: joshy8200 wrote: Um...considering you're asking for the 'best', sport routes are OUT in my opinion. . stay out of the fuckin' sport climbing forum then Trad tard or get out more and you'd see there are thousands of amazing sport lines.. or better yet.. don't so there is one more parking space in the lot why why WHY must people who are so against sport climbing post their shit in the sport climbing forum.. this happened the same way with the quick draw thread a few weeks ago.. i mean FUCK just shut the hell up if you hate it so much.
What's wrong with you? Not enough sex? Too much sport climbing?
Jeez dude, I hate to burst your 5.10 sport climbing jug haul bubble. I didn't even notice the forum that this topic was listed in. Had I noticed that I wouldn't have posted anything negative about sport climbing.
Again, sorry I interrupted the sport climbing circle jerk.
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jt512
May 10, 2007, 5:12 AM
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joshy8200 wrote: jakedatc wrote: joshy8200 wrote: Um...considering you're asking for the 'best', sport routes are OUT in my opinion. . stay out of the fuckin' sport climbing forum then Trad tard or get out more and you'd see there are thousands of amazing sport lines.. or better yet.. don't so there is one more parking space in the lot why why WHY must people who are so against sport climbing post their shit in the sport climbing forum.. this happened the same way with the quick draw thread a few weeks ago.. i mean FUCK just shut the hell up if you hate it so much. What's wrong with you? Not enough sex? Too much sport climbing? Jeez dude, I hate to burst your 5.10 sport climbing jug haul bubble. I didn't even notice the forum that this topic was listed in. Had I noticed that I wouldn't have posted anything negative about sport climbing. Again, sorry I interrupted the sport climbing circle jerk.
When we want the opinion of another 5.8 trad poser we'll give it to you.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on May 10, 2007, 8:13 PM)
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superbum
May 10, 2007, 5:43 AM
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out of what I've climbed...
Mr Slate, The Pit, Flagstaff, AZ
Hardly Wallbanger, Owens River Gorge, Bishop, CA
Tribal Boundaries, City of Rocks, Almo, ID
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tradmanclimbs
May 10, 2007, 11:54 AM
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Rock and ice, You just described a JAM Crack Not a Jug Haul....
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zakadamsgt
May 10, 2007, 12:40 PM
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Hmmmm for me I really enjoyed Spawn at South Clear Creek OBED River Gorge, TN. It's a 110' haul, all jugs, super classic 10 bolts, with a great view from the top of the gorge 
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olderic
May 10, 2007, 2:09 PM
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tradmanclimbs wrote: Rock and ice, You just described a JAM Crack Not a Jug Haul....
If you know how to jam, cracks can be a jug haul. i.e. Cro-magnon (Crow Hill, MA). However this is supposed to be in a sport climbing context... but then again occassionally there are bolted cracks - they tend to spawn the best religious debates.
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tradmanclimbs
May 10, 2007, 2:15 PM
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A solid hand jam is bomber but it is a hand jam not a freaking jug WTF?? Duhhh..... the only way your going to get a 5.10 jug haul on a trad line is if it is a bunch of horozontals. Now the gunks seems like it would have that sort of thing but all the tens I have done there were thin fingery scary things,Not jug hauls...
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olderic
May 10, 2007, 2:22 PM
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Oh come on - with a username like yours you should know that a "jug" is anything you can hang onto and pull up on with one hand/arm. Gunks grades are real - meaning a 5.10 is somrthing that you actually have to work up to - not an inflated number that a 10 year old girl can climb after 2 weeks in the gym. But try and get on Star Action if you want a 10 with big holds.
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tradmanclimbs
May 10, 2007, 2:57 PM
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Hey. i'm not the one with the ego problems here... A jug is a jug, a crimp is a crimp and a jam crack is freaking jam crack. It ain't fckn rocket science and there ain't no need to get all huffy about how much you hate spurtclimbing unless you have a really small weiner and your 20lbs over weight and can't do those climbs you love to hate.. I spurt climbed rumny last week, tradclimbed at cathedral yesterday and most likly will go boulder a few 5.7 trad climbs localy this afternoon but what the heck that has to do with the best 5.10 jug haul in the country i haven't figured out yet. Maby that 10 year old girl can kick your ass, maby that's it
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olderic
May 10, 2007, 3:06 PM
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No problem - I'll kick your butt on sport, trad or bouldering, aid or ice - you choose. I wasn't the one whining about "scary 10's" at the Gunks.
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michaelmay513
May 10, 2007, 3:09 PM
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"Fire In The Belly" 5.10d at Dierkes Lake, Twin Falls Idaho. This route was dubbed the "Steepest 5.10 in the country with the biggest holds you will ever fall from" by Rock and Ice magazine. Sorry that I can't remember the issue #.
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tradmanclimbs
May 10, 2007, 3:53 PM
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AAHHHH now were slinging the shit. Eric. I didn't whine about anything?? WTF? I haven't climbed much at the gunks since my rack got stolen there in 86, but the few 10s that i did there back then were definatly not jug hauls. Instead of pointing me to a nice 5.10 jug haul at the Gunks Somehow you turn that into a sportclimbing bash and now your gonna kick my butt and show me what a great climber you are when the only qestion that was really asked was . What is the best 5.10 JUG HAUL? Not, the best jam crack or crimpfest over a crappy nest of microwires. Must be the small weiner syndrome again Seriously though a good climb is a good climb regardless of weather or not it is bolt protected. A good jug haul is a blast if your clipping bolts or slamming cams into huecos or horozontals. Why the need to feel superior to another style?? See me sportclimbing and the tradman monnicer is obvious. I'm the geek wearing the helmet and I got an oh shit kit on my harness thashing my way up 10s. I got pleanty of respect for the guys mantaining the crag and pulling that stuff even though I am much more at home over on Canon cruiseing up Moby or Vertigo or the Black Dike on a nice cold day. It's all good....
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michal104
May 10, 2007, 5:10 PM
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I have to second "Breakfast Burrito" at the Red. If you've done it you probably agree. "Pogue Ethics" is pretty damn sweet as well.
I'm going on a trip there with my girlfriend in a week and both of these climbs are high on the must do list. Nothing feels better than a RRG plate jug.
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tradmanclimbs
May 10, 2007, 7:52 PM
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Actually the best 5.10 jug that i know of is the root iside the crack at the top of the Prow, Cathedral ledge NH
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gunkiemike
Jun 6, 2007, 11:38 PM
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I dunno about your area, but at the Gunks, if it's a jughaul, it's no harder than 5.6 (think Madame G's) to 5.8 (Son of Easy O). A 5.10 is going to have MUCH smaller holds (see Directissima for a "fingerhaul" route).
That being said, I have seen a very powerful short toprope (hey, that's almost the same as sport climbing...right? ) line out at Lost City that clocks in around 10. But ya gotta get through the tips layback first, to get the full juggy, arm-bursting 5.10 sensation at the roof. Yea, baby!
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highangle
Jun 6, 2007, 11:51 PM
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Damn, I thought this thread was going to be about Hooters and the like......
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nonsight
Jun 12, 2007, 1:23 AM
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joshy8200, perhaps you should go back to the New and clip some more bolts while learning to climb harder trad...
when you say stuff like thisIn reply to: considering you're asking for the 'best', sport routes are OUT in my opinion
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 12, 2007, 11:26 AM
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That looks pretty cool. I love sandstone huecos
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 12, 2007, 4:35 PM
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Is that climb limestone? it lookes like sandstone and i assumed it wass in Arizona so sandstone was my thought. Either way it looks pretty darn fun.
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jt512
Jun 12, 2007, 4:37 PM
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tradmanclimbs wrote: Is that climb limestone? it lookes like sandstone and i assumed it wass in Arizona so sandstone was my thought. Either way it looks pretty darn fun.
Yes, it's limestone. There is a lot of limestone in AZ.
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drljefe
Jun 12, 2007, 10:18 PM
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Mr. Slate's good. One could argue that many of Jack's 11's are actually 10's, in which case I'd vote for one of those fun 11b's. Naah, Mr. Slates more... mature.
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nivlac
Jun 12, 2007, 10:39 PM
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j_ung wrote: michal104 wrote: Nothing feels better than a RRG plate jug. Bullshit, you ridiculous n00b slime! What, a New River Gorge iron-band jug feels like shit now? Fuck you! (Just keeping with the spirit of the thread. No offense meant.  )
haha!! pretty funny dude.
I suggest boltergeist, 100ft 10a/b in Muir Valley RRG. And I think Slick and the 9mm 5.10b at Drive By is a really enjoyable jug fest from start to finish, even though Breakfast Burrito is pretty good.
Pogue Ethics is a 9+ since we're talking about .10 jug hauls.
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brokenankle
Jun 12, 2007, 11:27 PM
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Here are my top 3:
y2k - Red Rock, NV (sporty becuase there is one bolt at the crux)
horseshoes and handgrenades - Horseshoe Canyon, AR
Northcutt Start - Eldorado Canyon (also sporty with fixed gear at the crux, although im not sure how many falls it will hold)
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climbsomething
Jun 12, 2007, 11:35 PM
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It is, I bleeve, Kaibab limestone, which is a sandy variety.
And polished and pumpy as hell.
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curt
Jun 13, 2007, 4:40 AM
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brokenankle wrote: Here are my top 3: ... Northcutt Start - Eldorado Canyon (also sporty with fixed gear at the crux, although im not sure how many falls it will hold)
Since that climb is a slab, with a crimpfest crux, how exactly, does it qualify as a "Best Jughaul" route? Just curious.
Curt
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shanz
Jun 13, 2007, 4:47 AM
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HRM gotta pair of overhangin jugs sitting in my bedroom that i would grade 5.10d iuf not closer to 5.13c cause i tend not to keep my mouth shut and they throw me off every time i drink tequilla. Of course the crux is a couple nipple's that its hard to get some bite on when i drink. In otherwords you cant fall if you dont let got. To bad this climb is in my apartment!!!!
(This post was edited by shanz on Jun 13, 2007, 4:49 AM)
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brokenankle
Jun 13, 2007, 5:52 AM
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I certainly wouldnt call it a slab, but i think you are right in that I got off on the jughaul theme. I guess i was just rattling off my favorite 5.10s. On my list, replace the northcutt direct with Romancing the Stone in Rumney.
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sanfranpunk
Jun 13, 2007, 9:43 PM
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superbum wrote: out of what I've climbed... Mr Slate, The Pit, Flagstaff, AZ Hardly Wallbanger, Owens River Gorge, Bishop, CA Tribal Boundaries, City of Rocks, Almo, ID
hardly wallbanger was my choice fo a sport route definately(great moves and if you get tired, which you will, there is always a bomber handjam.
speaking of handjams generic crack in indian creek might as well be a jug haul.
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