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deadhorse
May 31, 2007, 6:07 AM
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haha check these out- http://petrenkoworld.com/Products/ anybody heard/tried em?
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bennydh
May 31, 2007, 6:21 AM
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Holy EFIN' SHIEEEEEEEEET.... I'm Gaping in disbelief WTF is this. Haha, This has to be someones multimedia internet class and a machine shop class combined into one... someone with any real knowledge please post...please let us know what this crap is. Troll maybe Deadhorse? ...if this is a troll you made my efin night pm me or something to let me know for sure so I can laugh a while.
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dlintz
May 31, 2007, 6:22 AM
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It's been discussed several times in other threads. I love the paint job on those babies!! d.
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bent_gate
May 31, 2007, 6:46 AM
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Is that a Lock Nut holding the cams on the axle? I'm just saying...
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anykineclimb
May 31, 2007, 7:13 AM
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kinda ironic that "deadhorse" brought this up...
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robbovius
May 31, 2007, 11:29 AM
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I bought a petronkoworld #1 "Link" (their term) cam. the brand name on the cam lobes is KROK (actually it looks mor like KPOK becasue it's incyrillic characters. yeah it does looklike somebody made it in their cellar workshop, but the thing works fine, and grips the rock as well as my BD C4s do...as long as you aren't retarded about placement. last weekend I used it in a 3-point TR anchor and it was fallen on multiple times. I'll probably buy a couple more from them.
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sungam
May 31, 2007, 11:52 AM
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I have to say I'm worried about thier quality control... Check out their blue "camalot" on the pic showing the set... the plate with the size on it, that holds the cams in place, is upsidedown.
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j_ung
May 31, 2007, 1:16 PM
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Would you rather be 30 feet out from one of these or an Alien date stamped two months ago?
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Dillbag
May 31, 2007, 1:35 PM
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Depends... Was the Alien also stamped "Tensile Tested" on both the swage and the braze-head?
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dr_feelgood
May 31, 2007, 1:41 PM
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I'm tempted to get one just to scare the shit out of future partners. 'Hey, mind if we lead on my rack?'
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robbovius
May 31, 2007, 1:53 PM
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sungam wrote: I have to say I'm worried about thier quality control... Check out their blue "camalot" on the pic showing the set... the plate with the size on it, that holds the cams in place, is upsidedown. yeah yeah wotevuh. orientation of the lobe retaining plate is unimportant. that the plate is there, is. ;-) in the previous petrenkoworld thread linked above, rc.commer Boku tested one of the link cams to failure (with pics of the test setup and everything), and it was surprisingly strong. personally, Based on boku's test, and my experience with teh one I own, use of KROK cams doesn't exceed my personal level of risk aversion, thogh I may avoid using them with various trad partners who might not be so comfortable with KROK cam perfrormance. gear doesn't need to be pretty, it just needs to be strong and work as advertised. BD C4s are real pretty, but you are defeintely paying for some of that prettyness. the main difference between KROK (sold thru petrenkoworld) cams and BD is that KROK has no reputation in the climbing world, and is being judged on appearance.
(This post was edited by robbovius on May 31, 2007, 1:58 PM)
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el_layclimber
May 31, 2007, 2:15 PM
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I can actually appreciate a design like that. I can see how that cam is put together because of its homemade look. I know how to asses a loose nut, I do not know how to asses a shoddy braze or rivet. Besides, many gear companies start out as a stoned dirt bag in a basement anyway.
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sungam
May 31, 2007, 2:20 PM
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I have no worries about the unit that Boku tested, I read that thread when it started, but the quality of one unit does not, in my mind, justify complete trust in an entire range. You hit it right on the head "orientation of the lobe retaining plate is unimportant.", if something so arbitrary, and so blatantly OBVIOUS to the eye is ignored on the advertising photo, then I worry about the checks that go into the entire range. Once when my older brother was young, he bought a "red rider" air rifle. it fell apart, and the cause was obvious; the people in the factory were lazy, and used their drill head to tighten the nuts onto the bolts without properly threading them first, thus stripping the threads. Does this guy do the same? who knows, certinly not me, and untill I could have complete confidance in the fact such shortcuts, or lazyness, does not take place, I would not trust that piece of gear. another note on consistancy of quality: did you see the thread where smoe dude used his truck to test his aliens? they were fucking bomb-proof, shattered the friggin granite. how about the one where the guy used his home testing kit to snap one way below it's rating? the one Boku tested is fine, as is the one you are using, it would seem, however, I would not feel confidant that the one I recieved was. Maybe I'm paranoid, or maybe I'm just smart, or maybe I'm a predudist dickhead who doesn't trust sat-state production quality. Who knows. [/rant] -MagnuS
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foeslts16
May 31, 2007, 2:31 PM
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taken from above link: ...."Pull testing to the 15 kn rated strength of the unit showed nothing remarkable. The unit held solidly with no complaints. The only lasting result of this test was slightly increased flat-spotting of the nature observed in the 7.5kn test. Pull testing to ultimate failure broke the unit at 16.7 kn, 111% of its rated strength. The failure mode was breakage of the stem cable where it wrapped around the cable thimble at the center of the axle. "...
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robbovius
May 31, 2007, 2:33 PM
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sungam wrote: I have no worries about the unit that Boku tested, I read that thread when it started, but the quality of one unit does not, in my mind, justify complete trust in an entire range. You hit it right on the head "orientation of the lobe retaining plate is unimportant.", if something so arbitrary, and so blatantly OBVIOUS to the eye is ignored on the advertising photo, then I worry about the checks that go into the entire range. Once when my older brother was young, he bought a "red rider" air rifle. it fell apart, and the cause was obvious; the people in the factory were lazy, and used their drill head to tighten the nuts onto the bolts without properly threading them first, thus stripping the threads. Does this guy do the same? who knows, certinly not me, and untill I could have complete confidance in the fact such shortcuts, or lazyness, does not take place, I would not trust that piece of gear. another note on consistancy of quality: did you see the thread where smoe dude used his truck to test his aliens? they were fucking bomb-proof, shattered the friggin granite. how about the one where the guy used his home testing kit to snap one way below it's rating? the one Boku tested is fine, as is the one you are using, it would seem, however, I would not feel confidant that the one I recieved was. Maybe I'm paranoid, or maybe I'm just smart, or maybe I'm a predudist dickhead who doesn't trust sat-state production quality. Who knows. [/rant] -MagnuS I see your point, though I think the Red Rider air rifle analogy has vy little to do with KROK cam quality, really...unless the guy who assembled your brother's rifle went to work for them in their QC dept. also, notice that I only bought one. it was $10 US, so I figured "why not, let's see what the deal is".. turns out the deal is pretty good. The woman I corresponded with at the company was also very helpful and responsive. In all, I've had a positive experience with the company, and hte product, so the idea of purchasing a few more "Links" doens't bother me at all. a full set is only $55, and suppose I need a bail cam on a route? I'd much rather leave one of those than a C4. "Predudist"? what, you're not a "dude" yet? ;-) I guess that means I'm 'postdudist'.
(This post was edited by robbovius on May 31, 2007, 2:38 PM)
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sungam
May 31, 2007, 6:54 PM
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To be fair, though, if I had pull-testing kit, I'd buy a bunch, test them to half, and if they were A-OK (cool you can take them apart and check for straining on the failure point) then I'd climb over them happily, and at a good price, too. Don't mind my earlier post, or any of my recent whingy dicking posts, I just broke my hand and can't climb for 3+ months. Not cool. -MagnuS
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devkrev
May 31, 2007, 7:02 PM
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Now is the time, a thread about these cams can be entered into the revolving canon of RC.com, along with "should I buy hexes before cams", "what shoes should I buy" and "defective aliens" threads. Can't think of any others. dev
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sungam
May 31, 2007, 7:17 PM
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"what weights should i do"
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rymep
May 31, 2007, 7:46 PM
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"Why is trad so much better than sport?"
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deadhorse
May 31, 2007, 7:53 PM
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I suppose there are some things about them that are admirable-- price mainly, simplicity of design too. The fact that they are SO SO cheap makes me think that it wouldnt be a bad idea to bring them along when bailing is likely, or even when the pro is repetitively sized, as i cant afford a half dozen #2 c4's. the downsides tho, to be a stickler, heres an ebay sale of the set http://cgi.ebay.com/Rock-Climbing-Links-Cam-Protection-Trad-Gear-Set-Aid_W0QQitemZ280120383964QQihZ018QQcategoryZ1299QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem they are 'rated' to 18 kN, and sorry, but i dont believe that they outhold meto's or BD's. Also, the biggest's range is 56-69mm. which is only like 18% expansion range. still worthwhile for bailing i would think, or to take apart and either make your own hybrids (sKetch) or make a keychain haha.
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bent_gate
May 31, 2007, 8:14 PM
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robbovius wrote: bent_gate wrote: Is that a Lock Nut holding the cams on the axle? [image]http://petrenkoworld.com/Products/content/Links%20Cams/N5/FROPE5H.JPG[/image] I'm just saying... yup. what's wrong with that? What is the proper foot-lbs to keep it torqued to?
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robbovius
Jun 1, 2007, 12:23 PM
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sungam wrote: To be fair, though, if I had pull-testing kit, I'd buy a bunch, test them to half, and if they were A-OK (cool you can take them apart and check for straining on the failure point) then I'd climb over them happily, and at a good price, too. Don't mind my earlier post, or any of my recent whingy dicking posts, I just broke my hand and can't climb for 3+ months. Not cool. -MagnuS shit Mag, thatz teh suxor. whinge on, broham. my sincerest condolences.
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robbovius
Jun 1, 2007, 12:35 PM
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bent_gate wrote: robbovius wrote: bent_gate wrote: Is that a Lock Nut holding the cams on the axle? [image]http://petrenkoworld.com/Products/content/Links%20Cams/N5/FROPE5H.JPG[/image] I'm just saying... yup. what's wrong with that? What is the proper foot-lbs to keep it torqued to? Torque specs for these types of plastic-insert locknuts are irrelevant. Torque values are applicable to free running fasteners, unless you need to specify a clamping force between the parts being fastened. in this use, you don't want to specifiy a clamping force, because the purpose of the nut is simply to retain the lobe on it's shaft, while allowing it to pivot freely. if you're going to take issue with the KROK plastic insert locknut lobe retention, then you'd better be taking issue with the Rock Empire flex button head screw lobe retention as well. IF these cam lobes were fastened with free running nuts, then I'd be seriously concerned about their function and manufacture, but a plastic insert locknut is perfectly fine in this application. Finally if you really care about torque values for 10-32 fasteners, standard torque tables for fasteners are readily available. 30 inch pounds is reasonable for a free-running steel 10/32 bolt/nut combo.
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boku
Jun 1, 2007, 8:06 PM
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bent_gate wrote: Is that a Lock Nut holding the cams on the axle? {huge image snipped} I'm just saying... The nylon locking nut in question is threaded onto a stepped axle and torqued up against the shoulder. Here's a picture that includes the axle: I didn't remove the nut using a torque wrench, but I do remember being relatively satisfied with the way it was it was snugged against the shoulder. However, I do remember being somewhat surprised at finding the nut to be threaded 10-32 with about an 8mm wrench size on the outside hex. Not that that's an extremely rare combination, I see that size a lot on bicycle brake handles. I just didn't expect to see it on climbing gear from eastern Europe. Thanks, Bob "BoKu" K.
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bent_gate
Jun 1, 2007, 10:23 PM
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Boku, Again, great job on the review btw <found here> I'll take your word that you felt the nut was satisfactorily snug. And I assume you were satisfied with the choice of materials for this attachment. My questioning of locker nuts is merely anecdotal. In that, whoever assembled my garage door, used locker nuts that constantly keep coming loose and eventually I find them on the floor. I haven't spent a lot of time trying to figure out exactly what they did, so I have simply put them back on and torqued them pretty tight. But over time they still shake loose. Perhaps the nylon lockers would have been better, or maybe the installer didn't put the pieces on in the right sequence. Like I said, I haven't spent a whole lot of time trying to figure out why. But it is my simple experience with them on my garage door that tends to make me question the use of them. I have no reason to impugn the veracity of their claims or materials choices. It is simply my preference (which could change over time as I have better experiences with other locker nuts.) Everyone has materials preferences, usually based on what they have had a chance to work with. Preference wise, I would trust them over the current aliens stamped "tensile tested". At least until I hear the complete resolutions of the alleged alien failures and learn from CCH otherwise. I'm certainly willing to let KROK have the chance to prove themselves like every other emerging manufacturer.
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stymingersfink
Jun 1, 2007, 11:29 PM
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rymep wrote: "Why is trad so much better than sport?" "my first fall EVER!!!!"
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mheyman
Jun 2, 2007, 12:06 AM
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In reply to: Would you rather be 30 feet out from one of these or an Alien date stamped two months ago? Absolutley!!! and there's no braze to even worry about.
In reply to: Depends... Was the Alien also stamped "Tensile Tested" on both the swage and the braze->head? Who cares whether or what it is stamped by CCH. I don’t trust the QC of their test department any better than I trust the QC of their manufacture!
In reply to: gear doesn't need to be pretty, it just needs to be strong and work as advertised. BD C4s >are real pretty, but you are defeintely paying for some of that prettyness. the main >difference between KROK (sold thru petrenkoworld) cams and BD is that KROK has no >reputation in the climbing world, and is being judged on appearance. KROK might not have a reputation in here, but if Petrenkoworld is run by Petrenko then perhaps it should. I don’t feel that we pay that much for the aesthetics of BD gear, and I am happy (for example) to pay for the analysis that helped BD determine how to take as much weight out the cams as possible while maintaining the necessary strength. So, while my rack incorporates quite a few BD cams, if I were a poor climber in a third world country these things would be a godsend.
(This post was edited by mheyman on Jun 2, 2007, 12:50 AM)
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sungam
Jun 2, 2007, 12:17 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: rymep wrote: "Why is trad so much better than sport?" "my first fall EVER!!!!" "what do I need to get started outside?" "Why do you climb?" -MagnuS
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Adk
Jun 2, 2007, 12:05 PM
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I have climbed on one and though I didn't feel comfortable I do know it worked/held. After placing the cam a few dozen times we did notice that the cam stop (pressed in pin) moved. We fixed it later at home. Would I buy them? Probably not. Would I climb on them again. Only after a good inspection of all the stops, etc. Though checking a nylon locking nut beyond visual inpspection without a torque wrench in "inch pounds" would be tough for me at home. Feeling comfortable with the gear that you place is much of the battle. Though I would like to see this company thrive, for $10 what should I have expected? ..might I say I didn't buy it. I surely would go through all the pieces with a fine toothed comb before I climbed on them. Look for those loose cam stops!!! Thanks for testing that piece failure. These types of things really help the R&D world. Adk
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rocknice2
Jun 2, 2007, 12:48 PM
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boku wrote: However, I do remember being somewhat surprised at finding the nut to be threaded 10-32 with about an 8mm wrench size on the outside hex. Not that that's an extremely rare combination, I see that size a lot on bicycle brake handles. I just didn't expect to see it on climbing gear from eastern Europe. Thanks, Bob "BoKu" K. The thread is not 10-32 but 4mm x 0.7 . It's very very close.
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paulraphael
Jun 2, 2007, 3:35 PM
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robbovius wrote: I see your point, though I think the Red Rider air rifle analogy has vy little to do with KROK cam quality, really... I think there's more to the paranoia than just paranoia. Most of us aren't engineers with test facilities. So we make our choices based on trust. That trust has to be earned, somehow. With this gear all we have is one person's pull test of a single cam ... and a bunch of marketing photos. Not much to build trust, at least for me. They might be great. They might have serious quality control problems. And right now, there's no real way of knowing.
(This post was edited by paulraphael on Jun 4, 2007, 6:06 PM)
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hhelbein
Jun 2, 2007, 4:31 PM
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boku wrote: [image]http://www.hpaircraft.com/climbing/PC090994a.JPG[/image] I think all of the parts can be found at Home Depot.
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tallmark515
Jun 2, 2007, 9:56 PM
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Check out the Petrenko big wall hammer... $24.95, nice! I might have to look into getting one of those. -m
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robbovius
Jun 4, 2007, 5:43 PM
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paulraphael wrote: I think there's more to the paranoia than just paranoia. Most of us aren't engineers with test facilities. So we make our choices based on trust. That trust has to be earned, somehow.. point taken, and I feel that all your other comments I clipped were valid. being able to trust gear is of huge importance in climbing confidently. Petrenkoworld/KROK cams so far have only a few anecdotal reports of use (mine included) and just Boku's independant test setup, whereas BD has decades of reputation built up by users along with transparent testing results. Petrenkoworld/KROK has a long hard road ahead to build general aceptance among climbers.
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